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  1. #1

    Results 1996 RT 10 Fuel Filter Replacement

    Again, appreciate everyone who took the time to respond back with their input, especially Mr. Wizard himself, and Tom Sessions, who was nice enough to take 2 of my calls to chat briefly about the procedure. Not much drama to report, other than about the 15 extra minutes it took to get the line off that runs up front to the engine. After spraying everything with a little juice, I finally was able to get the open end of a 9/16" wrench up there and instead of just pushing on the black disconnect fitting, I was able to use part of the chassis as a fulcrum, and pivot the wrench against the disconnect fitting, and then bam, it popped right off. The weird part about the procedure is that not 1 drop of fuel dripped during the entire R&R procedure. Mine has the bad check valve issue, so I have to cycle the key on/off several times before starting in order to avoid those long cranking times, however I was still surprised that literally no fuel came out at all, which I am grateful for I can assure you (gas cap was removed as well). After the lower line was disconnected, I removed the 3/8" mounting screw, and was able to reach in through the wheel well and carefully pull the filter out with stressing the plastic line to the tank. A quick disconnect, and new filter was ready to go in. The upper line was quite tight connecting to the filter, however I made sure I checked it like a zillion times for the clicks, and pulled on it as hard as possible to make sure it was secure. Mounting bolt went right back in, and the lower line connected in a quick sec. Cycled the key, and let it run for 10 minutes or so, with no leaks, and it looks like I'm good to go. Will keep and eye on it in the future if I'm ever up in there again, however hopefully I'll never have to worry about it popping off and causing a fire. I can't imagine how long it would have taken without these helpful tips and timesavers, much less not going in through the wheel well in order to help protect the integrity of plastic fuel line going to the tank. I know most members like a follow up after a problem is solved, i.e. drivability, codes, etc., however I just wanted to thanks everyone again for responding back, even to these very basic types of things, Hopefully this thread may help save some major headaches for someone in the future.

    Regards, Chris

  2. #2
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Glad it went well...you cannot beat the helpful tips from Chuck and Tom.

  3. #3
    Tech Team

    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Santa Monica Ca
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    Sounds like you had good luck, sometimes that fuel line can be tough to get off. Just so you know, I was able to find some replacement regulator-check valves for the OE fuel pump module if you need one.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cragin View Post
    Sounds like you had good luck, sometimes that fuel line can be tough to get off. Just so you know, I was able to find some replacement regulator-check valves for the OE fuel pump module if you need one.
    Dan: I'm assuming fuel tank has to come out, and all the headaches that go with it, etc., etc., etc.?

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Tech Team

    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Santa Monica Ca
    Posts
    819
    Yes the fuel tank needs to come out. Its not a complicated job but it does take a little while to do. The rear tires and wheel liners come out, you need to remove the trunk access panel. You should replace the filler
    neck grommet and seal for the pump module.

    Many folks wire in an electric primer timer, which works well, but you do need to turn the ignition key to the run position and what for the system to prime. You cant just prime it.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cragin View Post
    Yes the fuel tank needs to come out. Its not a complicated job but it does take a little while to do. The rear tires and wheel liners come out, you need to remove the trunk access panel. You should replace the filler
    neck grommet and seal for the pump module.

    Many folks wire in an electric primer timer, which works well, but you do need to turn the ignition key to the run position and what for the system to prime. You cant just prime it.
    Thanks. I've seen the link to the post that whatthe just posted earlier this morning. I may just leave well enough alone for now. If I ever need to go in there later down the line, I will keep this in mind as a future repair.


 

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