Headliner drooping pocket re engineering

**JasonMuscat** · 03-05-2017

Headliner pocket re engineering for the gearhead lacking sewing abilities. (how to get your seamstress savvy significant other to help you out

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During my 99 ACR restoration, while finishing my interior, I needed to address the infamous headliner pocket droop. I have seen many techniques on here and have concluded the success varies based on the remaining quality of the original fabric. As is typical with most interiors, it all seems to stretch / sag over time, so placing new material over old never quite matches up. Using glue to fix new elastic over the old looks, well, glued (crappy). Basically, not satisfied with the quality of the options already attempted (as is typical with my perfectionist ailment), I have reversed engineered and reproduced the part.

Cons:
The same weight upholstery felt fabric material is used but it does not have the same semi-grey back color. The closest mesh I could source has an ever-so-slightly smaller mesh size but is practically undistinguishable from the original unless you put a micrometer to it. And Last but not least, The eyelets are not painted black.
Pros:
Unlike the original elastic bands, the new band has non natural rubber for its elasticity and should be impervious to anything environmental that could be experienced from the inside of a vehicle. When assembled, it is very hard to distinguish between the original, and will last (probably) the life of the vehicle given all synthetic materials are used.

Joans Materials list:
Brand cargo netting 400101733591
Prym 1” elastic belt blk 072879268447
Sign SS Suede black 400079511061
Prym eyelet kit 072879102024

Special Tools:
Diritz 574 eyelet pliers

This is not meant to be a walk-the-dog type tutorial and is more for the well-versed do–it-yourself-er (gear head) that is not so well versed in sewing (as I am). I focus on the critical steps. A full DIY would be a novel.
If you do not have basic mechanics skills to remove the headliner, or basic textile skills, you may want to employ the help of a local seamstress and mechanic to give you a hand. Bottom line, If you can remove the parts and prepare the raw materials, this is not outside the abilities of a basic clothing alterations shop. Again, (pause for effect) IF (pause for effect) you set them up for success by presenting all the materials ready to go, with nothing more than assembly required, it should be no problem for a typical clothing alterations shop and you will not need to go to an upholsterer. Not to mention, quality control remains firmly in your control.

This can be for either the headliner pocket or the center console pocket found on the GTS.

After removing the pocket, carefully un-seam the stitching that mates the fabric to the wire frames. Care must be taken to NOT cut into the fabric. Once removed un-seam the elastic band from the mesh and felt fabric. Again, do not damage the fabrics overall dimensions. Do not be concerned with the eyelet placement, this will be figured in the steps numbered below. Once disassembled, iron the felt and mesh flat. Understanding the original fabric is most likely distorted from years of sitting in a hot interior, use them as templates to cut out new pieces form the corresponding new fabric. Oversize the pieces by about ¼ of an inch to ensure success. Do NOT punch the holes for the eyelets yet.

The order of the following steps is critical to ensure the fabric will not sag once installed:

1) Fold and iron the 1” elastic band in half and stich to the edge of the mesh/felt as it was on the original. Use a symmetrical zig zag /\/\/ stich with an aprox 1/16-1/8 stitch length and width. This can be done on a household machine but if it is outside of your abilities, have your local seamstress complete then re acquire the parts for more preparation.
2) Lay the semi-assembled mesh/felt/elastic part in front of you, ironed flat and flipped over so it is the back side facing up. Place the frame on the semi-assembled mesh/felt/elastic part just as it would be when sewn in place (prongs up). The first set of prongs should be slightly higher than the center of the elastic bands. Mark dots on the fabric, just outside of the iron frames (aprox 1/16), and aligned with the prongs. How accurately this step is done will immediately dictate the drum-tight properties of the pocket. If you trust the original holes from the previous fabric, I can almost guarantee the new pocket will sag as it will be sized from the old stretched fabric.
3) Punch the holes in the felt so that the outer circumference of each hole is at that 1/16th distance from the iron frame as marked earlier (tangent to the 1/16th for you engineers). Then crimp the eyelets with the smooth finished eyelet face on the felt side of the fabric.
4) Install/ stretch the fabric over the frame as it was originally. This should be relatively difficult and it should "feel" as if you are on the verge of bending the frame. The corner prongs where the frame bends 90* are the hardest to install, slightly flexing the “U” of the frames closed will help .

Take the semi assembled pocket to a seamstress and have them finish stitch the fabric to the frame. This is where a relatively specialized industrial type sewing machine may be needed as the foot will need to allow for the unevenness of the frame while the fabric is stitched.

You may have a seamstress that will be willing to tackle the entire job themselves if you provide the fabric. If you have faith in them, go for it. I have found there is a clear division between clothing textiles and auto upholstery, finding one to perform the other confidently is rare. If you perform most of the auto upholstery-esk tasks as this tutorial is designed to do, they are much more receptive to the remaining steps. Prices tend to greatly increase when you go to a dedicated auto upholster especially if this relatively small job is all you bring them.

The entire evolution should cost aprox $25, with the eyelet pliers making up half of that cost. (+ seamstress fees, my wife helped so it was free for me.

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Pictures below:
1) headliner pocket parts dis assembled.
2) headliner and rear console pocket fabrics stretched over frames. Not yet stitched to frame.
3) close up of headliner pocket
4) Material comparison, original on top, new on bottom.
5) Rivet Placement

Good luck

**dave6666** · 03-06-2017

Originally Posted by JasonMuscat

During my 99 ACR restoration

Nice write up. But how was your car damaged to the point that it needed restoration as you put it? That's pretty rare with these cars.

**JasonMuscat** · 03-06-2017

I used to race the car. I am just "restoring " the car back to its original state. Agreed, it is pretty rare, if the vehicle is a garage queen and not used for what it was designed for.