Differential Experts Please Chime In

[Boosted Motorsports]

Bought this diff for my car off a forum member but wasn't told much about it as it was never used by him and he had purchased it from another member. So far all I know is that it has 3.73 gears in it and is drilled/tapped for an oil cooler. Can anyone identify anything else I should know about it? Any chance this a Mopar Performance Diff or how would I tell? Also anything else I can look at to see if it is a standard diff or has any upgraded components?

Would like to know/learn as much as possible before I install, etc.

Thanks in advance!
IMG_3718.jpgIMG_3719.jpgIMG_3720.jpgIMG_3721.jpgIMG_3722.jpg

[Dan Cragin]

Cannot seem to pull up the pictures.

[dave6666]

You should pull the cover off to see what diff is in it. You are otherwise guessing as to what the correct fluid is to use. Some diffs use specialized fluids. My OSG does.

[Boosted Motorsports]

Fixed

IMG_3723.jpgIMG_3724.jpgIMG_3725.jpgIMG_3726.jpg

[dave6666]

Doesn't look like an OSG or Quaife. Be sure to follow the break-in procedure. For mine it was (2) light 20 minute drives followed by complete cool down, then 500 miles of light driving, fluid change, then it's on. Failure to do so will ruin the gears. Whatever the break-in is on your gears.

[Boosted Motorsports]

Doesn't look like an OSG or Quaife. Be sure to follow the break-in procedure. For mine it was (2) light 20 minute drives followed by complete cool down, then 500 miles of light driving, fluid change, then it's on. Failure to do so will ruin the gears. Whatever the break-in is on your gears.

I honestly didn't get any instructions or details with this thing so thats why I am posting to the boards. What type of oil should I use for break in? Mineral? Synthetic?

Should I just use brake cleaner to clean all that yellow paint off prior to install? Also whats the consensus these days on having to use the friction modifier if I use a high quality synthetic oil after break in?

[Ripper]

^^^ Dave is spot on with this in regards to breaking it in

Also , keep it under 60mph for the first 100 miles

[ViperRyan]

^^^ Dave is spot on with this in regards to breaking it in

Also , keep it under 60mph for the first 100 miles

Going to be SOOO hard to follow when I get my new gears lol.

[Ripper]

Going to be SOOO hard to follow when I get my new gears lol.

It's not easy... especially when the lead foot wants to get heavy

[ViperRyan]

It's not easy... especially when the lead foot wants to get heavy

Agreed lol

[dave6666]

Going to be SOOO hard to follow when I get my new gears lol.

Then be prepared to replace them shortly thereafter due to the noise as they self destruct. The break-in procedure hardens them.


You can leave the yellow paint on.

[ViperRyan]

Then be prepared to replace them shortly thereafter due to the noise as they self destruct. The break-in procedure hardens them.


You can leave the yellow paint on.

Yes, I am aware of the strict break-in procedure and would follow to a T. Was just "joking" which I know is something that has long since passed you by.

[Boosted Motorsports]

The LSD is the same as factory except that the ring gear bolts are sized up like the 01-02 diffs. It's a stronger set up. The holes were tapped to run the Mopar Performance (long discontinued) diff cooler package. I believed it used a Tilton pump assembly that was thermostatically controlled.
Use the factory synthetic diff fluid as well as the factory friction modifier. Change the fluid every 10 K, it gets smoked. Likely 3/8" or 1/2" npt, but I'm not near my car right now to check. I can check this weekend.

Thank you! If you get a chance to check that would be awesome! My plan was to run to home depot and just grab a couple sized steel ones to verify the size then order the Earl's online.

When you put that Diff in its a good idea to paint up those iron couplings, I used a black hammerite paint that you apply by brush directly to metal with no primer Don't paint the faces where the uj sits.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/905823...57633073729716

Definitely agree! I was going to paint the raw iron and seeing pictures of your car make me want to polish my shaft too! I mean... Uh...

You can leave the yellow paint on.

Thanks Dave

[dave6666]

Yes, I am aware of the strict break-in procedure and would follow to a T. Was just "joking" which I know is something that has long since passed you by.

Oh snap. i was hoping you were going to trash your car so we could laugh at you.

Seriously tho, as many mechanically deficient idiots work on cars these days, I always assume every stupid comment is for real. Other than that, I'm too hilarious to ignore jokes.

[99RT10]

It's a stock carrier with Dana 3.73s. Use the mopar diff oil with the 4 OZ friction modifyer.

[Dan Cragin]

Yes it is a Mopar Performance housing for a 196-2002 Viper. Production limited slip with 3.73 gears.

Dan

[Boosted Motorsports]

Yes it is a Mopar Performance housing for a 196-2002 Viper. Production limited slip with 3.73 gears.

Dan

Awesome!!! Thank you Dan! Is this limited slip any different from the one installed from the factory? Also do I do anything different with gear oil or friction modifier?

Last question is would you happen to know what thread the holes are tapped? Was going to order some nice Earl's fittings to plug the holes for now.

Thanks in advance!

[Camfab]

Awesome!!! Thank you Dan! Is this limited slip any different from the one installed from the factory? Also do I do anything different with gear oil or friction modifier?

Last question is would you happen to know what thread the holes are tapped? Was going to order some nice Earl's fittings to plug the holes for now.

Thanks in advance!

The LSD is the same as factory except that the ring gear bolts are sized up like the 01-02 diffs. It's a stronger set up. The holes were tapped to run the Mopar Performance (long discontinued) diff cooler package. I believed it used a Tilton pump assembly that was thermostatically controlled.
Use the factory synthetic diff fluid as well as the factory friction modifier. Change the fluid every 10 K, it gets smoked. Likely 3/8" or 1/2" npt, but I'm not near my car right now to check. I can check this weekend.

[98RedGTS]

Here to learn as well.

Why do replacement gears require a break in procedure but factory diffs don't? I.E. a brand new car?

[Fatboy 18]

When you put that Diff in its a good idea to paint up those iron couplings, I used a black hammerite paint that you apply by brush directly to metal with no primer Don't paint the faces where the uj sits.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/905823...57633073729716

[SlowPoke McGee]

Plan on recleaning those parts after every drive then. Or just save the effort and realize they're gonna get dirty no matter how shiny you made them.

Oops: Dave misread the post again. Specifically asks for differential "experts" to chime in. Perhaps hearing O'Malley wanting to polish his shaft proved too much? I digress.

[99RT10]

Oops: Dave misread the post again. Specifically asks for differential "experts" to chime in. Perhaps hearing O'Malley wanting to polish his shaft proved too much? I digress.

And it starts, LOL.

[dave6666]

And it starts, LOL.

Whoa there bro. He might send candy and flowers when he's done

[Camfab]

Ok, back to the info. Sorry it took so long, anyway.... The top hole on the side is 3/8-18 NPT. The lower hole on the side with the tag is 1/2-14 NPT. The two holes on the bottom are 3/8-18 NPT.
IMG_3274.jpg

[Fatboy 18]

Great Info Its the little things like this which make this club great.