Which headers are these

[Dajerseyviper]

Anyone heave any idea the manufacturer of these headers? I just bought them used and was curious if anyone had any more specific information on them.

[LifeIsGood]

Not Belanger.

[Camfab]

I need a better shot of the flange from the front side. I'm 99% sure those are the original SVS header. Basically the best header ever made for the Gen II Viper. 3/4" thick machined stainless flanges, 304 stainless with Burns merge collectors. There were Chinese knock off's but they had horrible flanges. They should have SVS stamped on one of the flanges, likely the #1 cylinder.

[Dajerseyviper]

I need a better shot of the flange from the front side. I'm 99% sure those are the original SVS header. Basically the best header ever made for the Gen II Viper. 3/4" thick machined stainless flanges, 304 stainless with Burns merge collectors. There were Chinese knock off's but they had horrible flanges. They should have SVS stamped on one of the flanges, likely the #1 cylinder.

So this was a good score then?

[uvbnbit]

I like the bolts holding the collector in place. I think slip joints on mine always getting loose. Need to do something like that to my B&B.

Toddy at BBG had similar set up I think.

[Martyb]

I agree with Camfab, those look like SVS headers, great score!! They can melt the heater box but they performed very well.

[Dajerseyviper]

I agree with Camfab, those look like SVS headers, great score!! They can melt the heater box but they performed very well.

I plan on header wrapping them and heat shielding the box. The coatings headers come with usually dont keep any heat down as much as prevent corrosion and look pretty.

[Dajerseyviper]

Also, who is the closest STS Viper Tuner to NJ???

[Camfab]

I've never seen SVS headers coated, but that doesn't mean someone didn't do it. Generally speaking the tubes won't fit into the collectors if they are coated. Those headers uncoated are a work of art, and Marty is right, you need a shield to protect the heater box. SVS used to sell a really high quality sleeve material that does a decent job of protecting the engine compartment parts, yet doesn't super encapsulate the tubes like most header wraps. I can send you picks of it as well as the shield I made if you like.

Not sure what you mean by STS tuner?

[plumcrazy]

there are no tuners in NJ, ask viper tony if his guy in CT is any good.

[Dajerseyviper]

I've never seen SVS headers coated, but that doesn't mean someone didn't do it. Generally speaking the tubes won't fit into the collectors if they are coated. Those headers uncoated are a work of art, and Marty is right, you need a shield to protect the heater box. SVS used to sell a really high quality sleeve material that does a decent job of protecting the engine compartment parts, yet doesn't super encapsulate the tubes like most header wraps. I can send you picks of it as well as the shield I made if you like.

Not sure what you mean by STS tuner?

Yeah pictures would be great, thanks a bunch. Also i meant SCT. not STS..lol

[Dajerseyviper]

I also ordered a nice set of Vband clamps and fitting along with a 6" flex pipe to install after the headers to keep it similar in design to stock where it allows the exhaust to flex a bit.

[Dan Cragin]

Interesting headers, the SVSI headers had the O2 sensor in the colllector unless it has been moved. Borla copied the SVSI headers for a short while and sold them as well. You need to run the plug wires "up and over" with these headers so they dont burn.

[ViperTony]

there are no tuners in NJ, ask viper tony if his guy in CT is any good.

Gjon @ PowerPlant Motor Sports. He's moved to New Milford,CT from Poughkeepsie. I'll see him later this spring, good guy. https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...rsports-Review

[Dajerseyviper]

Interesting headers, the SVSI headers had the O2 sensor in the colllector unless it has been moved. Borla copied the SVSI headers for a short while and sold them as well. You need to run the plug wires "up and over" with these headers so they dont burn.

The O2 bung is in the collector, someone added that one at some point rather than lengthening the O2 wires. Im probably gonna use the bungs in the collector.

[Dajerseyviper]

Gjon @ PowerPlant Motor Sports. He's moved to New Milford,CT from Poughkeepsie. I'll see him later this spring, good guy. https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...rsports-Review

I tried that email it says its no good. Also his website is gone and his last activity on here in May of 2015.

[jviper12245]

I have SVS headers on my 97 and those look exactly the same.

[Dajerseyviper]

I have SVS headers on my 97 and those look exactly the same.

They arrived today and are indeed SVS headers date code 2006!!!! SCORE FOR ME !!!! LOL.. It appears they were thermo-coated ato some point and it has worn a bit, but I plan on Titanium wrapping them because I believe in function over appearance. Here are some nice SS V-band I plan on welding to them and adding this flex pipe inline just after the headers to prevent any cracking in the future.

[Camfab]

Here are the pics
IMG_3271.jpg
IMG_3270.jpg
IMG_3269.jpg
IMG_3268.jpg
IMG_3264.jpg
Not sure if you noticed but headers are stepped as well.

[Camfab]

Something important to note is that the position of the collector can and will move around significantly depending on how you tighten those bolts down on the collector. Put the tubes in one at a time and don't fully tighten them. Get the collector in place and snug up the bolts. Note the position of the collector as you begin to tighten the collector bolts, don't go crazy on the tightening. I used ARP stainless bolts with non plastic rated stainless lock nuts. Use a bit of anti sieze on the bolts or you'll have issues. If you're ever changing engine mounts, this is the time to do it. I went with the Woodhouse mounts, because they don't sag like crazy as the stock ones do. I ended up having to slice the collectors at an angle and TiG welding them back together to get the tubes perfectly aligned in all three axis. As Dan noted the orientation of the tubes requires some different length wires. The stock set up is not going to work. I bought many sets of Mopar performance wires and experimented with differing lengths. You can thank me later as I guarantee you I saved you some serious grief.
The expansion/flex joint is a good idea, although I did not use one and have not experienced any issues. The great thing about the headers is that they use the Burns collector which is not fixed. This eliminates the cracking issues that ALL non slip joint headers experience, cracking. By not over cranking on the collector bolts, the tubes grow into the collector and then seal themselves air tight. hopefully your coated headers don't cause issues with that principle.

[Dajerseyviper]

Here are the pics
IMG_3271.jpg
IMG_3270.jpg
IMG_3269.jpg
IMG_3268.jpg
IMG_3264.jpg
Not sure if you noticed but headers are stepped as well.

Well thats plenty of insulation there!!! No melting for you!!!

[Dajerseyviper]

Something important to note is that the position of the collector can and will move around significantly depending on how you tighten those bolts down on the collector. Put the tubes in one at a time and don't fully tighten them. Get the collector in place and snug up the bolts. Note the position of the collector as you begin to tighten the collector bolts, don't go crazy on the tightening. I used ARP stainless bolts with non plastic rated stainless lock nuts. Use a bit of anti sieze on the bolts or you'll have issues. If you're ever changing engine mounts, this is the time to do it. I went with the Woodhouse mounts, because they don't sag like crazy as the stock ones do. I ended up having to slice the collectors at an angle and TiG welding them back together to get the tubes perfectly aligned in all three axis. As Dan noted the orientation of the tubes requires some different length wires. The stock set up is not going to work. I bought many sets of Mopar performance wires and experimented with differing lengths. You can thank me later as I guarantee you I saved you some serious grief.
The expansion/flex joint is a good idea, although I did not use one and have not experienced any issues. The great thing about the headers is that they use the Burns collector which is not fixed. This eliminates the cracking issues that ALL non slip joint headers experience, cracking. By not over cranking on the collector bolts, the tubes grow into the collector and then seal themselves air tight. hopefully your coated headers don't cause issues with that principle.

Thanks for the heads up! But your saying you had to modify the headers to make them fit??? Really?

[Camfab]

Every car is slightly different, in my case I believe it was the driver's side but I've long forgotten for sure, but it needed to rotate up or down and either in or out as well to get it laser perfect

motorswap_078.jpg

[Camfab]

Here you can see I lined the factory heat shields with additional material to protect the O2 sensor extension wires as well as other components above.

motorswap_089.jpg

[Dajerseyviper]

Here you can see I lined the factory heat shields with additional material to protect the O2 sensor extension wires as well as other components above.

motorswap_089.jpg

I see what you mean about the collector bolts, they were quite tough to get off. BTW you have the cleanest engine bay I have ever seen..lol.. Oh and TW did you polish or chrome your heat shielding?