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  1. #26
    Tech Team

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    Oct 2013
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    Port Charlotte, FL
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    782
    Quote Originally Posted by kronos View Post
    Why spend 400-1000 bucks when the fittings are 80 and will last longer than most people will keep their car?
    Because it doesn't work that way.

    First of all, a set of fittings is 160 bucks, not 80. They are a temporary solution, generally between 10-20K miles is about all they are good for, *assuming* your lines are still good. This is a design flaw with a single over-stressed O-Ring and no dust protection. The lines do wear as well from vibration and o-ring contact, on top of no hard-coating on the fittings or lines.

    The OE Viper oil lines are rather pathetic in construction to be honest... glorified Heater Hose with extremely oddball "A/C meets coolant" style crimp fittings. As pointed out above, the correct solution is to replace the hole she-bang. All of our lines are anodized or hardcoated, all fittings are dual o-ring for dust protection, and all line materials are far superior. Our lines are all full-swivel direct-port or Quick Connect, they all feature abrasion protection, and we never use JIC type fittings with their galling-lock-ring, seeping, and over-torquing issues.
    Last edited by Viper Specialty; 02-18-2017 at 01:13 PM.

  2. #27
    Enthusiast
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    Dec 2015
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    Alberta
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    385
    10-20k miles??? My last set of oem lines lasted just over 3000miles before they started to leak. Just save yourself the hassle and get yourself a good set of aftermarket lines. You got yourself a $40,000-$60,000 car, whats 800 bucks for piece of mind and to avoid the hassle of an oil leak on your garage floor? When your flying down the highway at some relentless speed, its nice to know your not leaking oil.

  3. #28
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    Dec 2013
    Location
    Summerfield Fl.
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    176
    Quote Originally Posted by Viper Specialty View Post
    Because it doesn't work that way.

    First of all, a set of fittings is 160 bucks, not 80. They are a temporary solution, generally between 10-20K miles is about all they are good for, *assuming* your lines are still good. This is a design flaw with a single over-stressed O-Ring and no dust protection. The lines do wear as well from vibration and o-ring contact, on top of no hard-coating on the fittings or lines.

    The OE Viper oil lines are rather pathetic in construction to be honest... glorified Heater Hose with extremely oddball "A/C meets coolant" style crimp fittings. As pointed out above, the correct solution is to replace the hole she-bang. All of our lines are anodized or hardcoated, all fittings are dual o-ring for dust protection, and all line materials are far superior. Our lines are all full-swivel direct-port or Quick Connect, they all feature abrasion protection, and we never use JIC type fittings with their galling-lock-ring, seeping, and over-torquing issues.
    Your wrong, the fittings part # (05037316AC) are $9.50 each, that's $38.00. and the lines don't wear out.

  4. #29
    Tech Team

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    Oct 2013
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    Port Charlotte, FL
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    782
    Quote Originally Posted by jaxtk View Post
    Your wrong, the fittings part # (05037316AC) are $9.50 each, that's $38.00. and the lines don't wear out.

    First off, I will concede I was wrong on the pricing. They *DID* used to cost nearly that much forever ago, and the wording of your original post about "The fittings cost 40 bucks", followed by the other poster saying "80 bucks for fittings" I assumed you price was singular, his was for two, and I corrected to four needed for the job. Given the 30-something bucks they were last time I bought them when the Gen-3's were still being made, 40 bucks seemed reasonable. Now, if you do want a laugh- price the lines. Last I checked, they cost *at least* as much as my most affordable line option.

    That said, the lines ABSOLUTELY do wear out. The fittings and lines are made from the same raw aluminum with no protection, and they wear out due to dirt acting like sandpaper + engine vibration. If one is wearing, so is the other. They also tend to seep at the crimps over time. I have seen DOZENS of worn out lines, be it from literal worn "divots" from the O-Ring and Fitting contact, to seeping crimps. Hell, I have piles of fittings here and at least a few good sets of OE lines. I would be more than happy to sell them all to you!

    The problem is a lot bigger than you are wanting to admit. Between myself, Woodhouse, DC, Tater and JTSVP alone, there have been many hundreds of line failures and replacements. It is probably one of the most common issues we see, and as alluded to earlier by Viper04BLK, I was being "optimistic" in how long lines and fittings tend to last. You are perfectly free to do as you wish and stay OEM, while most people prefer to just be done with the problem for good.
    Last edited by Viper Specialty; 02-20-2017 at 01:39 PM.

  5. #30
    ^^^^This..

    My Gen III had less than 5K original miles on it when mine started leaking... out of nowhere.. for no apparent reason at all..

    The VSP lines are Awesome and I found fairly easy to install. problem solved!

  6. #31
    Enthusiast
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    Nov 2013
    Location
    Blair, Nebraska
    Posts
    3,804
    We replaced lines on 18 cars in a row, before we got one in that did not need replacing. They seep and very few , other than your top Dealers on this Forum, ever change them --they just hose things off and pretend there was no issue, and it is super common. Dan the Man did underestimate , trying to make sure he did not exaggerate, but doesn't take much to figure he is making his lines for a reason.

  7. #32
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    S.W. Ohio
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    231
    Quote Originally Posted by Special Ed View Post
    The date codes on tires. If the tires are 4 to 5 years old, or are runflats they need to be replaced, regardless of wear. Check for leaks on the oil cooler lines, they are known to weep.

    I'm sure others will chime in with more. Good luck with your pending purchase and welcome.
    Tell me more about these date codes on the tire . Is there a date of manufacture on the tire or an expiration date ? Is there a code for the date or is it listed as an actual date ?

  8. #33
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    372
    There is a year of manufacture stamped in the sidewall. When I bought mine the michelins had a 2007 stamp. Original tire.

  9. #34
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    Dec 2015
    Location
    Alberta
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    385
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazak View Post
    Tell me more about these date codes on the tire . Is there a date of manufacture on the tire or an expiration date ? Is there a code for the date or is it listed as an actual date ?
    https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/...-of-your-tires

    if your date code indicates your tire is more then 4 years old (5 years MAX...even that is pushing yourself into a dangerous position every time you pound the throttle) have them replaced ASAP


 
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