Looking to buy a used 2009 SRT 10 any common problems to look out for

[IntegraR0064]

Hello everyone,

I'm planning to buy a used 2009 Viper SRT-10 coupe with about 10k miles tomorrow at a dealer assuming it checks out. I like to check out whatever I can, especially where common problems are concerned. Any suggestions on things I should inspect? I tried searching but didn't really find any info on this. Thanks for any input!

[Special Ed]

The date codes on tires. If the tires are 4 to 5 years old, or are runflats they need to be replaced, regardless of wear. Check for leaks on the oil cooler lines, they are known to weep.

I'm sure others will chime in with more. Good luck with your pending purchase and welcome.

[City]

Pretty sure Gen 4's did not come with runflats, but a 2009 that still has its factory tires needs new shoes.

[IntegraR0064]

The date codes on tires. If the tires are 4 to 5 years old, or are runflats they need to be replaced, regardless of wear. Check for leaks on the oil cooler lines, they are known to weep.

I'm sure others will chime in with more. Good luck with your pending purchase and welcome.

Thanks! Good tips. I assume if the oil cooler lines do happen to be leaking slightly, it's not a big deal right, just a replacement of the lines for a few hundred bucks is in order?

As far as I can tell these cars don't really seem prone to any major issues, is that right?

[Steve-Indy]

I'll assume that you have run VIN through an authorized Chrysler-J-D-R dealer to be sure that recalls are complete and that car is not "restricted" in any way...then match this history with BOTH Carfax and Autocheck. If not, get cracking...or " buy dangerously".


Check window function...regulators go out.

Date codes on tires...if past 6 years, expect to pay $2000.00 for new ones. Don't forget to include new (and CORRECT ) TPM sensors.

Check oil cooler lines for leaks...if not yet leaking, they will.

Examine brake pads...also pay particular attention to inner pads on parking brake.

Check A/C for function...look for leaks especially around compressor as those "O" rings go out with time and heat.

Be sure to know where ALL fluids stand in terms service intervals...expensive to change at dealer.

ALWAYS check to see if harmonic damper bolt is tight...on ANY Viper.

Look for signs that shocks are leaking.

Battery age...and, check to be sure that insulating cover is in place over positive terminal.

Inspect ANY/ALL Vipers for panel fit, frame damage, and paint-match issues...giver the known high wreck-rate.

There are many more small Viper idiosyncrasies...and, I am certain that I have skipped a few.

If you are new to Vipers, take an experienced owner with you. It usually pays to make sale contingent upon car passing inspection by an experienced Viper Tech if one is nearby. Usually costs a couple of hundred bucks.

If you drive car, assess feel, noises, brakes...NOT acceleration.

Good hunting.

[IntegraR0064]

I'll assume that you have run VIN through an authorized Chrysler-J-D-R dealer to be sure that recalls are complete and that car is not "restricted" in any way...then match this history with BOTH Carfax and Autocheck. If not, get cracking...or " buy dangerously".


Check window function...regulators go out.

Date codes on tires...if past 6 years, expect to pay $2000.00 for new ones. Don't forget to include new (and CORRECT ) TPM sensors.

Check oil cooler lines for leaks...if not yet leaking, they will.

Examine brake pads...also pay particular attention to inner pads on parking brake.

Check A/C for function...look for leaks especially around compressor as those "O" rings go out with time and heat.

Be sure to know where ALL fluids stand in terms service intervals...expensive to change at dealer.

ALWAYS check to see if harmonic damper bolt is tight...on ANY Viper.

Look for signs that shocks are leaking.

Battery age...and, check to be sure that insulating cover is in place over positive terminal.

Inspect ANY/ALL Vipers for panel fit, frame damage, and paint-match issues...giver the known high wreck-rate.

There are many more small Viper idiosyncrasies...and, I am certain that I have skipped a few.

If you are new to Vipers, take an experienced owner with you. It usually pays to make sale contingent upon car passing inspection by an experienced Viper Tech if one is nearby. Usually costs a couple of hundred bucks.

If you drive car, assess feel, noises, brakes...NOT acceleration.

Good hunting.

Awesome, thank you. When you say "run VIN through an authorized Chrysler dealer" what exactly do you mean? I did check the autocheck and carfax, and I used safercar.gov on the VIN which shows no recalls. Should I be calling a dealer or something? The car is at an independent dealer, not an authorized dodge dealer.

Rest of the stuff, great I'll add that to the checklist. I'm thinking for the harmonic damper bolt it's probably enough to just see if I can turn it with my fingers right? Would be slightly awkward to ask for a big wrench to put on it in the showroom . Awkward is fine if it's important though.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, this is the car: http://www.greaterchicagomotors.com/...il-id-16934224

It looks stock to me other than the K&N intake, and generally looks good, everyone else feel the same?

[Bill Pemberton]

Listen to Steve Indy --that is a good solid list and what most consumer fail to check and many Dealers do not recondition.

[Steve-Indy]

Let me say, that if this car checks out, you will have a ball with it !! I personally feel that the Gen IV Viper is really the best of all worlds...power, age, reliability, road-ability. It may not be as luxurious as a Gen V, not quite the same performance as the fantastic ACR-E...but it will "work" around town, on road trips, road courses, and drag strip...reliably. No one should take my opinion as a slur to any other model...especially as we enjoy all five Gens...and, would part with none of them.


Feel free to call me. 317-402-9013

[City]

Let me say, that if this car checks out, you will have a ball with it !! I personally feel that the Gen IV Viper is really the best of all worlds...power, age, reliability, road-ability. It may not be as luxurious as a Gen V, not quite the same performance as the fantastic ACR-E...but it will "work" around town, on road trips, road courses, and drag strip...reliably. No one should take my opinion as a slur to any other model...especially as we enjoy all five Gens...and, would part with none of them.


Feel free to call me. 317-402-9013

Not to mention they made some with a convertible roof.

[viper_eddie]

In my opinion the Gen 4 is one of the most bulletproof cars out there.

[Steve-Indy]

Final point: If you decide to purchase this Viper, a reputable guy in the Greater Chicago area who could do a good, honest inspection is Bill Sampognaro...former Illinois Club President.

Read this thread: https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...294-My-Journey

Shop info:

http://frankfortfamilyauto.com/aboutus.html

[IntegraR0064]

Well guys I bought the car. Only issue I saw was the oil cooler lines did have a light coating of oil down where they attach to the engine, but I was half expecting that anyway. Everything else checked out. Thanks for all the help! The car will be delivered late this week. Very excited.

[swexlin]

In my opinion the Gen 4 is one of the most bulletproof cars out there.

Tend to agree. In the Gen 4, they fixed a could things that were wrong with the Gen 3 (differential and engine oiling), gave it more power and torque. As others have said, the two main issues are the oil cooler lines and window regs (which are still issues on the Gen 5, unfortunately). Both are these are not huge deals, but can be pricey to fix.

[City]

Tend to agree. In the Gen 4, they fixed a could things that were wrong with the Gen 3 (differential and engine oiling), gave it more power and torque. As others have said, the two main issues are the oil cooler lines and window regs (which are still issues on the Gen 5, unfortunately). Both are these are not huge deals, but can be pricey to fix.

I've had the window reg issue. Good news is the price went from somewhere around $1,300 to $400. Don't know why, but they did.

Congrats Integra! Think you need to join the VOA and change your forum handle!

[IntegraR0064]

Congrats Integra! Think you need to join the VOA and change your forum handle!

Hah, thanks! I haven't had an integra for about 10 years now but it will always be my forum handle, first car I really loved was my Integra Type R. This car is slightly different from that though....

[Steve-Indy]

Congrats, man!! As I said, this is a great model in my opinion. You may never stop smiling !!

[viper_eddie]

Tend to agree. In the Gen 4, they fixed a could things that were wrong with the Gen 3 (differential and engine oiling), gave it more power and torque. As others have said, the two main issues are the oil cooler lines and window regs (which are still issues on the Gen 5, unfortunately). Both are these are not huge deals, but can be pricey to fix.

Out of curiosity, how much is it to fix the oil cooler lines? Good to hear prices of the regulators went down. I've been messing with Italians for the past 2 years and I'm starting to get over it for now haha. Whatever is pricey for most cars is like triple the price for these. I want to sell my 355 and get back in a Gen 4 I think.

OP, congrats on the purchase, post pics once you have it

[Bill Pemberton]

Oil cooler lines will run you anywhere from 600-1000 depending on the install and whether you use factory or some of the ones Dan Lesser sells. I may be off a little , but keep in mind when doing you are also going to do an oil change.

[IntegraR0064]

Dan Lesser sells oil cooler lines for $374-$1000 depending on how pimp you want to make the lines and how easy the install. As a mechanical engineer, those seem like the perfect solution to me. I'm personally going for the $574 ones here, they seem like best bang for the buck: http://viperspecialtyperformance.com...roducts_id=264

[jaxtk]

Oil cooler lines will run you anywhere from 600-1000 depending on the install and whether you use factory or some of the ones Dan Lesser sells. I may be off a little , but keep in mind when doing you are also going to do an oil change.

The oil cooler lines are not the problem, it is the fittings in the block that leak, ( O rings are inside the fittings ) the fittings are $40 , part # 05037316AC, easy fix.

[FrgMstr]

Examine brake pads...also pay particular attention to inner pads on parking brake.

Great list Steve!. I would suggest making sure to check the rotors as well....especially the insides on the rear even if the pads are "good."

And yeah, the oil cooler lines are going to leak sooner or later...well above the fitting at the block.

[99RT10]

Hah, thanks! I haven't had an integra for about 10 years now but it will always be my forum handle, first car I really loved was my Integra Type R. This car is slightly different from that though....

I would change your screen name to ViperR2009. Integra............... Pfffft.

The oil cooler lines are not the problem, it is the fittings in the block that leak, ( O rings are inside the fittings ) the fittings are $40 , part # 05037316AC, easy fix.

Great info, I will keep an eye on my 2009.

[IntegraR0064]

The oil cooler lines are not the problem, it is the fittings in the block that leak, ( O rings are inside the fittings ) the fittings are $40 , part # 05037316AC, easy fix.

My understanding is they'll just leak again though eventually right? It's a design flaw, not defective parts. So by replacing the fittings with a different design, which necessitates changing the lines, you actually fix it for good.

[kronos]

Why spend 400-1000 bucks when the fittings are 80 and will last longer than most people will keep their car?

[Bill Pemberton]

They are braided lines and a fitting can not be installed. If that was the way to fix it many would have done that a long time ago. It is part of the reason Dan Lesser designed his lines with fittings, etc.