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  1. #1
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    brake fluid questions

    Hi valuable Viper family,

    I will change the brake fuild in my 97 stock R/T this winter.
    Went to the store to buy some fluid and was surprised to see all the different choice I had.
    From super DOT 3 to "performance" DOT 3 that have better boiling temp than DOT 4 to a silicone DOT 5, also have American DOT 4 and Europeen DOT 4 and DOT 3...confusing more than anything. Took a photo so you can see the differences (blurry, 'cause you know what, new to the old man,I now need my glasses all the time and do not carry them everywhere...haaa, growing old...lol)
    I know OEM is DOT 3 and I also know that I can substitute DOT 3 with DOT 4 with no problem.
    Of course, question is, which one is the best for my application???
    I do not intend in tracking the car regularly (I will only track it once next summer as a 50th B day present, and will be done in a amateur kind of way). And most of my driving is done in a relatively old woman matter...don't need high speed/spirited driving to enjoy my Viper, looking at it is exciting enough for me, so imagine driving it...

    Again, a pre-thank you for your input

    Ben "I need to wear my glasses" Lemay
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Dot 3, 4, 5.1 are interchangeable.

    Dot 5 is silicone based and you DO NOT MIX IT in systems that have had 3, 4, 5.1 in them.

    Boiling point increases as you go from dot 3 to 4 to 5.1.

  3. #3
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    I'm sure you could get by with DOT 3. I usually put DOT 4 in my performance cars whether I drive like grandma or not. It is just a little more peace of mind for guys like me who think about such things.

  4. #4
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    Dodge has used Mopar DOT 4 as the "factory fill" brake fluid since 1999...this also includes the clutch fluid (noting that the clutch fluid reservoir caps ALL say DOT 3...From 1992 through 2010 !!!).

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lemay88 View Post
    Hi valuable Viper family,

    I will change the brake fuild in my 97 stock R/T this winter.
    Went to the store to buy some fluid and was surprised to see all the different choice I had.
    Canadian Tire, eh? As others have said, anything other than DOT 5 will be fine for you. You have planned only one track day so my guess is that you don't push super hard. But still, for an extra dollar or two, I'd recommend the higher temp stuff. You definitely don't want to risk boiling your fluid at the track. I only look at the wet number, since contamination starts the moment you break the seal on the bottle... but that's just me.

  6. #6
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    DOT 4 for sure.

    Just last week I flushed the old ATE Super Blue out with StopTech STR600. Oh, and the clutch as well.

    For a few bucks more use the good stuff (ATE, StopTech, Motul, etc.) and be done with it.
    Last edited by 00GTS; 01-13-2017 at 04:09 PM.

  7. #7
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    Yes DOT 4, 00GTS, how did you flush the clutch? Did you pull the trans?

  8. #8
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    ^ for the brakes.

    For the clutch I just emptied/replaced/emptied/replaced the clutch reservoir with fresh fluid. Pump the pedal 10-15 times after each replacement too. Fill and replace enough times until the fluid looks clean. Not a 100% flush but good enough.
    Last edited by 00GTS; 01-13-2017 at 10:50 PM.

  9. #9
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    Ya, I tried that Ranger method, it didn't do squat for me, except create the illusion of fresh fluid. I'm going to order the hose that allows a proper change. It's a slight pain pulling the trans, but I was hoping for some feedback on the hose kit. Oh well, I guess I'll be the guinea pig.

    I've been looking for a real power bleeder that doesn't require four gallons of brake fluid. I think there could be a real market for those. I have something similar to the motive product, it goes against everything I know about brake fluid to use a set up like that. Air is dissolved into the fluid with that setup, which is why real power bleeders separate the fluid from the compressed air with a bladder. If anyone knows of a product like what I'm describing that uses between two quarts to a gallon, please let me know. Before anyone tells me that the vacuum method is better, I just prefer forcing the fluid from the reservoir.

  10. #10
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    What kind of cars are you discussing that might require "pulling transmission" to flush clutch fluid?

    If, by chance you are discussing Vipers (Gen I through IV ), one uses the bleeder valve that sticks out of the slave cylinder...next to the hydraulic hose to said slave cylinder.

    For a real life, clear picture of this anatomy, send an email to me.

  11. #11
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    Steve I realize it sticks out, but my understanding has always been that the fluid will end up running into the bellhousing, which of course will contaminate the clutch. Is this not correct?

    I was going to pull the trans and order the hose kit from Snake Oyl.
    Last edited by Camfab; 01-14-2017 at 06:32 PM.

  12. #12

  13. #13
    Most of the fluid will come out of the end of the bleeder; it is drilled through and you can capture it using a hose if desired. A small amount may escape where the bleeder threads into the slave cylinder but it certainly does not contaminate your clutch. If worried, you can use some brake cleaner afterwards to ensure there is no significant amount of fluid in the bellhousing area.


    ETA- I have installed remote bleeders on T56's before in GM applications; the purpose there was due to difficult access to the bleeder screw for a ratchet or wrench. On the Viper it's easy to get a wrench onto the bleeder; I just replaced my slave cylinder and saw zero purpose to installing a remote bleeder (or else I would have!).

  14. #14
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    As noted above, one can limit spillage. That said, removing clutch inspection plate, and a little brake cleaner has prevented problems in the past. This is a useful (and necessary) step if one chooses the two man bleed with the bleeder being opened under full clutch pressure as some prefer.

    Same thing goes for cleanup if the bleeder must be removed because if is clogged with debris...as is fairly frequently seen on neglected Vipers.
    Last edited by Steve-Indy; 01-14-2017 at 09:36 PM.

  15. #15
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    Brake Fluid in the 97 from the factory is DOT 3 meeting J1703 standard.
    That is what I put in my 97 but I do not track the car.
    Others on these boards probably have much more experience with other than I do regarding use of the newer variants of fluids.
    BLRD

  16. #16
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    Thanks everyone for your input..
    Even if I don't track the car, I will go with DOT 4... Better performance, never know what life can bring.

    Ben


 

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