Why bleed the brakes!!!!

[Back In Black]

I was stunned by the number of late model cars for sale at BJ with dirty brake fluid including a couple Vipers. Makes you wonder how well the rest of the car was maintained.

[99RT10]

I was stunned by the number of late model cars for sale at BJ with dirty brake fluid including a couple Vipers. Makes you wonder how well the rest of the car was maintained.

I don't think that is a good indication. Brake fluid is probably the most neglected fluid. For those track rats and anal owners, yep it gets taken care of. For others, it doesn't get a second thought until the brake fail.

[Sybil TF]

I don't think you are recalling correctly...Castrol SRF is not a DOT 5, it is a very high boiling point (dry and wet both) DOT 4 fluid. It can be mixed with other fluids, but it is not recommended since it will only serve to greatly reduce its wet boiling point properties, which is its main selling point.

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s/SRF_B768.pdf

So is Silicon ester and Silicone two different things? Probably confusion here.

[AZTVR]

I was stunned by the number of late model cars for sale at BJ with dirty brake fluid including a couple Vipers. Makes you wonder how well the rest of the car was maintained.

I've put brake fluid in from an unopened bottle and was surprised at how dark it was. I would have changed it if I had seen that darkness in a car that I just bought. I recently got a brake fluid moisture tester from Santa, and the fluid did check out as new fluid does.

[Joel]

MTGTS, I respect your opinion about brake fluid but the only problem with silicone brake fluid is that it is difficult and near impossible to get all the old fluid out before you add the silicone fluid. It is fine if you are starting with all fresh parts but I'd rather take my chances with non silicone racing fluid changed regularly. I haven't hand boiling problems on the track in either my 100% track car or the Viper with racing fluid. And, if you ever have a failure on the street, sometimes it is hard to get silicone fluid if you have to repair the brake system and then you are in trouble. Just my 2 cents.

JonB, the Castrol SRF is Silicone Dot 5 IIRC. That's what 99% of the pro teams use. Higher boiling point and no moisture. That's what I run and all my problems went away, haven't been able to boil this stuff yet.

YOU CANNOT MIX THE SRF WITH ANYTING, FULL FLUSH REQUIRED

[daveg]

OP, did you use the Motive POWER BLEEDER? If so, how did it work? If not, has anyone used one?

[Steve M]

OP, did you use the Motive POWER BLEEDER? If so, how did it work? If not, has anyone used one?

Used it for the clutch, used it for the brakes...both times worked very well. For the brakes, I used it for a caliper swap, so the calipers that I put on were dry. Bled them without an issue.

For the clutch, I sent the guys at Motive a spare cap to have converted to work with their system...they essentially just epoxied a fitting on the cap.

[daveg]

Used it for the clutch, used it for the brakes...both times worked very well. For the brakes, I used it for a caliper swap, so the calipers that I put on were dry. Bled them without an issue.

For the clutch, I sent the guys at Motive a spare cap to have converted to work with their system...they essentially just epoxied a fitting on the cap.

Cool, I will have to order one. which one (model) do you have?

[XSnake]

MTGTS, I respect your opinion about brake fluid but the only problem with silicone brake fluid is that it is difficult and near impossible to get all the old fluid out before you add the silicone fluid. It is fine if you are starting with all fresh parts but I'd rather take my chances with non silicone racing fluid changed regularly. I haven't hand boiling problems on the track in either my 100% track car or the Viper with racing fluid. And, if you ever have a failure on the street, sometimes it is hard to get silicone fluid if you have to repair the brake system and then you are in trouble. Just my 2 cents.

In one of my previous post I mentioned its over kill for 95% of people.

You also need to remember that Gen 3/4 have ducting to the brakes to help keep them cool.

[Steve M]

Cool, I will have to order one. which one (model) do you have?

Just the standard pressure bleeder with the 1103 Chrysler adapter for the brakes...they didn't have an adapter for the clutch master cylinder reservoir, so I bought an extra cap from X2 Builders, sent it to Motive, and they drilled a hole and epoxied a fitting to it that would work with the bleeder.

I also added a valve stem so I can pressurize it with my compressor instead of pumping it by hand...very handy little mod.

[pony23]

OP, did you use the Motive POWER BLEEDER? If so, how did it work? If not, has anyone used one?

Yes I bought the Motive power bleeder. It works pretty good. I also sucked out the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir with a turkey baster, that helped speed up the process.

I like it much better than Mityvac that I used to use.

[ACR Steve]

Motive is great it makes it a 1 person job. I only use Motul 600 in the Viper and my race cars . Its much better then Super Blue if you track the car or really work the brakes