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  1. #1
    sharmut
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    TA OE Brembo brake pad wear

    Like to get feedback regarding the brake pad wear.
    The images are from the front pads of the OE Brembo pads from 14 T/A along side a new set. They have ~11k miles street and 5 track days and measure to 7mm thick (pad material only).
    Both driver and passenger inside pads show cracks. Outer pads not as severe. What's the reddish tint about?
    Would it make sense to install the ACR cooling ducts to direct more air to the inside pad, possibly get a little more use out of them?

    TA_Brake_Pads_IMG_1387.jpg

    TA_Brake_Pads_IMG_1388.jpg

    TA_Brake_Pads_IMG_1391_2.jpg
    Last edited by sharmut; 12-19-2016 at 08:38 PM.

  2. #2
    5 track days??? They look new, red could be rusty residue from rotors and washing, some cracking not uncommon from heat at the track, but most guys would need new pads after 5 tack days!

  3. #3
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    As Marks says, those look like new! Dont worry about the cracks.

  4. #4
    sharmut
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjorgensen View Post
    5 track days??? They look new, red could be rusty residue from rotors and washing, some cracking not uncommon from heat at the track, but most guys would need new pads after 5 tack days!
    Interesting the cracks are predominately on the inside pads.

    They definitely lost some firmness and initial bite. Flushed the brake fluid, replaced with Motul 2 track days prior. Since I already had the pads out, went ahead and replaced them. Relatively inexpensive ($230 front and rear set from dealer) compared to other compounds.

    Thanks.

  5. #5
    Bruce H.
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    Pads look good. If you find you still get fade consider a better fluid like Castrol SRF React. I found a significant improvement over Motul 5.1 in my TA with stock pads.

  6. #6
    sharmut
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    Thanks everyone.

  7. #7
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    I would suggest swapping to a more aggressive pad. My personal experience is the OE pads will fade. After switching to the Hawk DTC70 up front I have no issues.

  8. #8
    sharmut
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    My only concern with using DTC70 is greater squeal on the street than the Brembo OE. Although I recently purchased a GIRODISC caliper tool and could start doing pad swaps between track days.

  9. #9
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    I haven't had any squealing on the track or on the street. Someone told me to camfer the front edge to prevent squealing. I didn't. But that may be an option if it becomes an issue.

  10. #10
    sharmut
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuggles View Post
    I haven't had any squealing on the track or on the street. Someone told me to camfer the front edge to prevent squealing. I didn't. But that may be an option if it becomes an issue.
    Good to know. Will have another chat with the local HAWK dealer nearby.

  11. #11
    I do have some squealing at the touch of the brake pedal ever since I used Carbotech pads! Can you elaborate on this chamfering idea?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADVIPER View Post
    I do have some squealing at the touch of the brake pedal ever since I used Carbotech pads! Can you elaborate on this chamfering idea?
    We didn't discuss how I would chamfer the pad myself. The hawk pads are not chamfered. Like this.

    non_chamfered_pad.jpg

    And we would create this chamfered edge. Possibly with a router bit. Not sure.

    chamfered_pad.jpg

    I will get more information when we speak again.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharmut View Post
    My only concern with using DTC70 is greater squeal on the street than the Brembo OE. Although I recently purchased a GIRODISC caliper tool and could start doing pad swaps between track days.
    My Carbotech pads squeal like a city bus in town. But the tradeoff in initial bite makes up for it.

    One thing to consider is cross contamination of brake material built up on the rotors from the 2 different compounds if you swap back and forth........

  14. #14
    sharmut
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    ^ good point on the varying compounds.
    Installed the ACR brake ducts and will see how it effects the Brembo TA pads over the next several track outings.

  15. #15
    I don't switch the pads and cleaned the rotors before installation. Never heared such squealing on new pads! Will re-open them to see what's wrong. They bite good nontheless. I hope it is not specific for the stoptechs.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADVIPER View Post
    I don't switch the pads and cleaned the rotors before installation. Never heared such squealing on new pads! Will re-open them to see what's wrong. They bite good nontheless. I hope it is not specific for the stoptechs.
    It's just the nature of high performance pads. The OEM pads are good. But they're a compromise as well. You have to trade some performance for them being quiet.

    If anyone asks why your car squeaks, just say "Because racecar" lol

  17. #17
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    I run Hawk DTC 70 pads. Race compound. And don't have any squealing.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuggles View Post
    I run Hawk DTC 70 pads. Race compound. And don't have any squealing.
    That's cool. I've ran Hawk Reds, Brakeman #3s, Carbotech XP's and they've all squeaked on the street. I'd say the Brakemans squeaked the least. How do you like them?

  19. #19
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    I like them. They bite hard on the track. A little soft on the street but I plan accordingly. I guess I am the exception. Never had a squeak out of them.

    Next time I will try a set of pfcs to compare.
    Last edited by fuggles; 01-03-2017 at 02:04 AM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADVIPER View Post
    I don't switch the pads and cleaned the rotors before installation. Never heared such squealing on new pads! Will re-open them to see what's wrong. They bite good nontheless. I hope it is not specific for the stoptechs.
    Did they squeak right after bedding them in, or only after a lot of street driving following the bedding in process? I definitely can imagine that there would be "squealing" if there is no layer of pad material on the rotor. There are other causes also, though.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by AZTVR View Post
    Did they squeak right after bedding them in, or only after a lot of street driving following the bedding in process? I definitely can imagine that there would be "squealing" if there is no layer of pad material on the rotor. There are other causes also, though.
    What do you mean by pad material on the rotor?
    They squeaked the moment I drove out my garage lol.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by darbgnik View Post
    It's just the nature of high performance pads. The OEM pads are good. But they're a compromise as well. You have to trade some performance for them being quiet.

    If anyone asks why your car squeaks, just say "Because racecar" lol
    Best answer ever 😂

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADVIPER View Post
    What do you mean by pad material on the rotor?
    They squeaked the moment I drove out my garage lol.
    When you bed in the brake pads and rotors, it deposits a layer of pad material onto the rotor for the pads to adhere to, improving braking performance. I have had the case where I left the race pads on my car between track events. The brakes did not squeal at first; but then did start to squeal after a day or more of street driving. I am theorizing that the abrasive race pads wore way the transfer layer from the rotor, and then caused squealing. I don't have any evidence to back up this idea, though. There are a lot of factors that can lead to brake squeal, though.

  23. #23
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    After a track day or bedding procedure, mine squeal shortly after. I just live with it. You can avoid the serious squeal by doing aggressive stops, rather than gradual, if you care.

  24. #24
    Nah the sound is fine for me but sometimes I wonder what people recording me on the traffic light thinks when they hear the sound 😂

    - - - Updated - - -

    My next pads are pre-beded so I'll see what difference that is.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce H. View Post
    consider a better fluid like Castrol SRF React. I found a significant improvement over Motul 5.1 in my TA with stock pads.
    This ↑↑↑↑↑↑
    SRF is the best brake fluid money can buy end of story. You can get away with many track days without bleeding, but should bleed every 2 track days anyways.


 
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