Heat shielding to protect rocker clear wrap

[VENOM V]

My clear wrap isn't holding up on my rockers.

Anyone tried something like this 1/8" ceramic / aluminum product that is adhesive-backed and apparently can be applied directly to the inside of the rockers?

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...eld-w-Adhesive

Any other ideas?

Thanks

[Snorman]

My clear wrap isn't holding up on my rockers.

Anyone tried something like this 1/8" ceramic / aluminum product that is adhesive-backed and apparently can be applied directly to the inside of the rockers?

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...eld-w-Adhesive

Any other ideas?

Thanks

I'm waiting for the detailer to do my car this evening to see how mine held up at Sebring over the weekend. ***EDIT***to see how the sills held up. I don't have clear bra on the sills due to this heat issue melting it
S.

[ACR Steve]

don't think any adhesive backed product will stick under that heat. It would have to be a wrap and wire tie product.

We should have somebody make a custom set . I bet a lot of Gen V guys would buy

[BlueAdder]

APRFS-200211-1.jpg

Something like this (Side Rocker Extensions) would be the ideal. I don't know if such a thing exists for the Viper.

For when I track the ACR, since it's blue, I'll just use blue tape on the roof, the wing and the rocker panels... It will be butt ugly but I won't have the same problem I have had on the Elise, where the sides are basically destroyed

Unless of course you are talking about different rockers... In which case, I have zero idea what you are referring to LOL

[PTP]

My clear wrap isn't holding up on my rockers.

Anyone tried something like this 1/8" ceramic / aluminum product that is adhesive-backed and apparently can be applied directly to the inside of the rockers?

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...eld-w-Adhesive

Any other ideas?

Thanks

I lined up my rockers with stuff like that. It seemed to help a bit, but I am only street driving. My clear wrap was starting show subtle signs of orange peel, so I gave up and went with a high flow exhaust. It has looked the same since I swapped.

I noticed it cooked the fiberglass packing under the top layer of reflective material. There just doesn't seem to be enough air space in that area to really make use of any shielding.

[BlueAdder]

You could also try to get your exhaust ceramic coated. It would reduce the heat from the muffler by a fair amount.
You can also wrap them with heat tape wrap: Heat Tape Wrap

[Stealth]

I think the OEM CATS really throw off some heat.

[ClayR]

I'll be wrapping mine this week or next. I talked to a guy ion CA and he said it reduced his heat off his header and pipes by 35 degrees. I deleted my cats too, so instead of it melting the clear wrap by the cats, it is burning the black paint on the exit. Hopefully this will fix that.

[TrackAire]

Don't think this will work or be worth the effort or cost. The inside of the sills is like an oven. Even if you wrap a turkey in aluminum foil, it eventually cooks if left in the oven long enough. Same thing is happening here.

The product listed above has a rating of 1000 degrees continuous....that's what it can survive at but that doesn't mean the heat doesn't transfer through it eventually and soak into your sills. People often fall for the marketing literature thinking it will keep 1000 degrees from reaching your sill....not the case. I've run my car with ceramic coated headers, no cats, ceramic coated pipes and it still gets super hot under high loads.

The only thing that may work is trying to vent fresh air into the sill so it can carry the heat away (think opening the door of your oven when cooking).

I'd save my money and just have my clear bra guy reapply the wrap every couple of years.

Putting some sort of rocker sill extensions as listed above to act as a physical barrier may also be prudent to protect your paint from stone chips.

[Snorman]

If you look at the sills from underneath the car, just like the Gen II's, there is no venting or anywhere for air to circulate or vent. I have to wonder if Dodge louvered the underneath of the sill, what effect it would have on temps. Alternatively, I was thinking about small, ~1/8-1/4 spacers between the attachment bolts and the underbody of the car (where the sill attaches), but not sure if there is wrap or other insulation that would inhibit airflow around the exhaust and heat rejection from that area.
S.

[VENOM V]

Thanks for the feedback guys. The Xpel only lasted a short time on my ACR. On my GTS, I ran 3M and it still looks decent after three years. It's showing some age but not nearly as bad as the Xpel. I'll switch back to 3M and see how it goes.

[Dr.Ron]

You could also try to get your exhaust ceramic coated. It would reduce the heat from the muffler by a fair amount.
You can also wrap them with heat tape wrap: Heat Tape Wrap

That's what I did based on a thread here. It reduced the heat by a lot! Now if my calf were to touch the sill area after a long drive even, it just feels warm.
I have the sills covered in Xpel as well and it looks fine thus far, but I've only put 3,000 miles on the car since I took ownership of it (14' GTS).

Ron

[TA Two Oh]

Thanks for the feedback guys. The Xpel only lasted a short time on my ACR. On my GTS, I ran 3M and it still looks decent after three years. It's showing some age but not nearly as bad as the Xpel. I'll switch back to 3M and see how it goes.

My installer would only use what he called "3M Pro" on my Viper. I actually argued with him for a few weeks while my car was on order because I'd seen some really nice X-Pel Ultimate installations, and some amazing -super clear and flawless- Suntek jobs. I pushed him to use one of those two, because the 3M jobs I'd seen in the past had orange peel and weren't as clear as Suntek. But he refused, saying that 3M Pro would hold up better, long term. I've used him for almost 15 years and I respect his judgement so I caved in. It's been on for over a year now and I'm very happy with the 3M Pro... it's clear, free of orange peel, and my sills are still almost perfect, with only a tiny imperfect area at the front that's almost certainly due to heat. So, make sure you get 3M's very best film. My installer claimed that it costs about twice as much as regular 3M film.

[docwviper]

Thanks for the feedback guys. The Xpel only lasted a short time on my ACR. On my GTS, I ran 3M and it still looks decent after three years. It's showing some age but not nearly as bad as the Xpel. I'll switch back to 3M and see how it goes.

is it warping from heat? I installed high flow cats with catback from belanger no problem since then.