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Thread: Need a clutch

  1. #1

    Need a clutch

    I have an 04 with 28k on it. Mods are headers exhaust and intake. I started developing a leaky rear main seal I have fidelity warranty and they should cover the seal. With those mods and the car being 95% street driven what is the best bang for the buck combo? I heard spec 3 with their lighten flywheel. Where should I pick up one?
    Thanks - Sid

  2. #2
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    Better check your contract , as never heard of the that company , but seals are not always covered.

  3. #3
    http://www.fidelitywarrantyservices....cle-protection

    PLATINUM EXCLUSIONS:
    Brake linings, brake drums and rotors, disc brake pads, standard manual transmission clutch friction disc, pressure plate, pilot bearings, throw-out bearing and arm, air bags, solar powered devices, hinges, glass, lenses, sealed beams, body parts and/or panels, weather stripping, trim, moldings, door handles, lock cylinders, tires, wheels, all batteries except Hybrid/EV/Hydrogen High Voltage batteries as listed under Silver Coverage, light bulbs, upholstery, paint, bright metal, freeze plugs, filters, heater and radiator hoses, exhaust system, catalytic converter, shock absorbers, constant velocity joint boots, steering and suspension joint boots, work such as front-end alignment or wheel balancing (except when required in conjunction with a mechanical breakdown), safety restraint systems, audio/security or other system not factory installed, cellular phones, radar detectors, appliances, or vinyl and convertible tops.

    Not sure how that is relavant but that is why I got platinum fidelity on both my 997 turbo and the viper. Even if it isn't covered I'm going to get the rear main seal replaced. I don't like seeing the small oil drops on my finished floors. Compared to the Porsche the viper warranty was a steal at $3550 for 6 years 60k fully transferable.

    Now back to clutches, which ones and from whom....

    Thanks - Sid

  4. #4
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    Sounds good, best of luck.

  5. #5
    VOA Member 99RT10's Avatar
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    Call Matt at Spec. I have a used flywheel in great shape cheap, PM me.
    09 ACR With all the goodies
    99 ACR TT 99 red RT/10 Roe S/C
    97 B/W RT/10 TT 94 RT/10 TT

  6. #6
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    unless your pulling over 700whp i would stick with a stock flywheel and clutch. it can handle up to around 650-700hp.

    with a light flywheel, it will be a bitch driving it on the road (think 80s clutch but worse). makes sense on the track but horrible on the streets. i am pumping around 600 to the wheel and took out my mcleod twin clutch after 1000 miles. there just isnt need for a aftermarket clutch with the hp your putting down.

    plus you a stock clutch should last at least 40,000 or more if driven properly and its not expensive.


    remember to replace your pilot bearing and slave while your in there.

  7. #7
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    I thouht the slightly lighter flywheel (chromoly, I believe) was ok for the street and gave quicker throttle response but the ultra light was the one that is a PITA on the street.

    Stock clutch I think is around 1200 installed by a competent tech.

  8. #8
    i thought about going with a lighten flywheel. u guys know the feeling... while i'm in there i might as well do it

    i think i'll go back with stock everything. mine holds fine but i do like revving faster

  9. #9
    Spec 3 clutch owners how do u like the pedal pressure? Does it feel like stock?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidwin View Post
    i thought about going with a lighten flywheel. u guys know the feeling... while i'm in there i might as well do it

    i think i'll go back with stock everything. mine holds fine but i do like revving faster
    The most expensive and scary phrase in car ownership is "while you're in there..."

  11. #11
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    I have a brand new stock mopar clutch in the box with pressure plate and throw out bearing , that i baught just incase i would blow my clutch.. PM if your interested...its good for gen 2 and 3

  12. #12
    dang chicago... i wish u would have hit me up earlier. i just ordered my clutch and pressure plate friday...

    anyone who wants one, CHuck Tator gave me a part number for napa 1105088 only $290 for stock clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing.

    Everything else came from chuck for $625 so about $900 in materials.

  13. #13
    Don't waste your time with a spec clutch or a aluminium flywheel , The spec 3+ is a waste of money I've gone threw two of them in two summers, They chadder so bad drivability is terrible and can't hold the power they claim there rated for. The stock clutch never failed should of stayed stock clutch, Any minor mods stay with a stock clutch!

  14. #14
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    Have a 1000km on a dan cragin spec'd mcleod RXT twin disk, drives like stock and no more slippage!

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Vprbite View Post
    The most expensive and scary phrase in car ownership is "while you're in there..."
    It is also one of the most exciting phrases next to start your engine :-)

  16. #16
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    I installed a Spec 2+ clutch (basically stock motor) and have had no issues after 10K miles. Clutch feels same as original. Side note, Dodge says not to machine the flywheel. I had it resurfaced with no issues. I do not track the car.

  17. #17
    I heard the same thing about the flywheel. I find it silly. My Supra had The same flywheel. Just not all machine shops are ok at doing it. The test for a flywheel is the spin test and if it doesn't spin back then the springs are bad. Flywheel was cheaper than the slave cylinder though.

  18. #18
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    I went with a $120 Dorman Slave cylinder from Summitt (CS360050) and a $52 Centric Master from ebay (136.63015). The TR6060 conversion had me reeling so I cheaped out. Feels like stock and so far no issues. If I'm ever in NO area and I lose the clutch, I'll give you a call !

  19. #19
    spoke with the mechanic. fidelity authorized a new tranny... woohoo. that makes me about even for the warranty. $100 deductible. he said originally they said get a junker tranny but mechanic talked him into a new one.


 

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