3rd gear grind

**EvilWon** · 10-11-2016

I've started to notice a grind in third gear when shifting at high rpm's. It seems like I've seen a few people have this issue. The car has never been abused but it has been driven.

I'm not sure how to approach this with a dealer because in order to simulate it your going to have to be wide open throttle with a fast shift.

Is it worth changing the fluid to see if that helps? If so what's the preferred brand and weight.

**Mopar'er no car** · 10-11-2016

Drain, fill with fresh dot 4. Flush a few times through the bleeder. Bleed slave. Top off to correct level. This should be done at least once a year. I like to do mine twice..

**texasram** · 10-11-2016

Originally Posted by Mopar'er no car

Drain, fill with fresh dot 4. Flush a few times through the bleeder. Bleed slave. Top off to correct level. This should be done at least once a year. I like to do mine twice..

would you happen to have a video on this?

**Mopar'er no car** · 10-11-2016

Crack the bleeder screw, gently and smoothly push the pedal until just about all the fluid is out of the res. Try not to suck it dry, this will introduce air into the system. Do this fill and drain a few times. Top off with dot 4, slow and steady bleed until all the air bubbles are removed. Just like bleeding brakes except you must pump slow and steady. If you get crazy you just end up with more air then when you started. **Make certain not to suck the res dry while bleeding.**

**EvilWon** · 10-11-2016

So if I'm understanding you correctly your saying to replace the fluid in the clutch master cylinder?

**98intrigue** · 10-11-2016

Had the same issue. The 3rd great synchro was trashed and I received a new transmission under warranty.

**2doorrocket** · 10-11-2016

Clutch Fluid needs to be drained and filled again. Especially if it just started you can save it from destroying your synchros

**Jack B** · 10-11-2016

Originally Posted by Mopar'er no car

Drain, fill with fresh dot 4. Flush a few times through the bleeder. Bleed slave. Top off to correct level. This should be done at least once a year. I like to do mine twice..

There is no bleeder valve, the slave is a self bleeder. Good idea, but, you will have to break the line at the top of the trans. Everything else is speculation

**EvilWon** · 10-11-2016

I did this regularly on my corvette by just using a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the revisor, refill, pump the clutch, and repeat until the fluid was clear.

I'm assuming that would work in this situation.

**Mopar'er no car** · 10-11-2016

Originally Posted by Jack B

There is no bleeder valve, the slave is a self bleeder. Good idea, but, you will have to break the line at the top of the trans. Everything else is speculation

no bleed valve? Im no expert but I had no idea. Maybe I should pay attention to what section this thread was in...LOL

**Jack B** · 10-12-2016

What is interesting, the self bleeding works very nicely. About the only problem you can encounter is if you over heat the slave, an example would be doing a static burnout with slicks, it is obvious, the pedal gets a bit spongy and you will have trouble shifting. The earlier Gen's and the G5 have a diff part number for the slave, I put them side-by-side and the only diff appears to be the lack of a bleeder on the G5.

If it is grinding either the clutch is not releasing or the the synchro's are bad. The standard synchro's have brass blocker rings, you can upgrade them to the Kevlar blockers to get a a little more durability. It takes a lot of abuse to hurt the synchro's on the 6060. One way you can damage the 6060 is by continually resting the hand on the shifter with a constant pressure in the out-of-gear direction.

Originally Posted by Mopar'er no car

no bleed valve? Im no expert but I had no idea. Maybe I should pay attention to what section this thread was in...LOL

**Dr.Ron** · 12-02-2016

I am having a similar issue. Normal daily driving I'll get an occasional grind here and there. Not sure if it's an issue or it's me being a tad lazy. However, at high rpm shifts, ESPECIALLY into 3rd, I get a grind. Usually it won't let me into 3rd gear.
Happened once into 2nd (couldn't get into the gear), and twice into 4th (got into 4th on of those times, couldn't the other time). But it's common into 3rd. It won't grind if I'm very slow and deliberate shifting into 3rd gear...This never happened on any of my previous manual cars before, and I've been driving stick for almost 28 years.

Also, I hear a slight banging/clanging noise when parked that goes away when I push in the clutch. I know that is usually the throw out bearing, but can that cause the grinding issue when shifting too? I know it can also be bad synchros or the clutch also.

The car has 4900 miles, 2014 GTS. This was happening for a while now here and there, but it wasn't until recently that I tried the high rpm shifts.

Thanks!

Ron

**98intrigue** · 12-02-2016

Ron,
Take it in for the dealer to assess. If you have any issues, PM me and I can find my WO numbers and send them to you.

Not only did I have the transmission replaced on my 2014 TA for the 3rd gear synchro...but luck struck twice and I had to have my transmission replaced due to the same issue on my current 2014 Anodized Carbon last month (around 3000 miles on the car).

**Dr.Ron** · 12-02-2016

Originally Posted by 98intrigue

Ron,
Take it in for the dealer to assess. If you have any issues, PM me and I can find my WO numbers and send them to you.

Not only did I have the transmission replaced on my 2014 TA for the 3rd gear synchro...but luck struck twice and I had to have my transmission replaced due to the same issue on my current 2014 Anodized Carbon last month (around 3000 miles on the car).

Ouch!

Yeah, I already had an appointment in 10 days for passenger side door rattles, so I'm just adding this to the list...but I was curious if anyone had any ideas going into it.

Thanks for the reply.

Ron

**braunstein82** · 12-03-2016

Ryan I send you a massage thru facebook. About same issue.

**DonatoEng** · 12-04-2016

The 3rd clash is common with the brass blocker rings during high speed fast shifts. The 6060's were upgraded with a hybrid brass/carbon in 2nd only.
I install carbon/ carbon blocker rings in all rebuilds which have a higher capacity than the brass. Also for the neutral gear rattle and improved gear life I supply a different fluid which has a greater EP load capacity.

John

**38D** · 12-05-2016

Originally Posted by DonatoEng

I install carbon/ carbon blocker rings in all rebuilds which have a higher capacity than the brass.

You are talking carbon steel? Any pictures of these?

**EZ 2B Green** · 12-05-2016

Originally Posted by 38D

You are talking carbon steel? Any pictures of these?

I'm pretty sure they are carbon fiber. John installed these with my 5th/6th update.

**DonatoEng** · 12-05-2016

They are a carbon lined blocker ring instead of the production brass. First and second are triple lined and third to sixth are double.
I'll post a picture of the production brass and the carbon lined blocker.
The fluid change reduces the neutral gear rattle and provides much better gear surface protection under loading.

John

**Dr.Ron** · 12-30-2016

So my car has been at the dealer for 19 days thus far. They're having the transmission rebuilt. I was told they can't just replace it with a new one as per Dodge. In fact, the dealer sent the car to a tranny shop locally for the work. The Viper tech said they're very good. I'm not sure exactly what parts are being replaced, but it's a bunch of parts.

I think 3rd gear, 2 or 3 synchros, and more. I'll post up when I find out.

Also, on the test drive with the tech, when I was in say 4th gear and took it out of gear (I went into neutral), when I'd press the clutch to put it back into gear it would grind also for 2nd, 3rd, 4th! So something was definitely not right in there.

I'm just thankful I'm not missing all that much driving time now.

Ron

**swexlin** · 12-30-2016

Very odd they are repairing, not replacing. Did you push for a new one? Because previously, they were just replaced. Again, with the "new" FCA, and warranty crackdowns, I guess things are different.

**Dr.Ron** · 12-30-2016

Originally Posted by swexlin

Very odd they are repairing, not replacing. Did you push for a new one? Because previously, they were just replaced. Again, with the "new" FCA, and warranty crackdowns, I guess things are different.

I asked the tech and he said they tell FCA what the problem is and then they decide the course of action.

**darbgnik** · 12-30-2016

Might be a good opportunity to talk to the transmission shop, and if they're game, order a few upgraded pieces from John?

**pete.best** · 12-30-2016

I took my 16 to the dealer on Monday for this problem. STAR Advised them to tear the transmission down and investigate further. I refused, also refused to leave the car there. I didn't want the car torn apart and sitting in the shop or in the lot behind the building for the next month. The dealer was very willing to help ensure that my complaint was escalated to the correct department W FCA/SRT.

I was told by the "premium care" case manager they are waiting for a response from the "powertrain division" regarding my request to replace the transmission immediately without going through the teardown process.

The technician, the service writer, and the service manager all agree that once they tear it down they will probably want to replace it anyway. They said that they have not had any in house transmission rebuilds authorized in almost 2 years. They have all been replaced.