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  1. #1

    Post all fluids for the gen 3/4 vipers most commonly used.

    hey guys ive researched a lot of threads over the past few days.
    my voi9 viper was on a rack for 3 years before i bought it so i decided i'd replace all the old fluids with new.
    anyhow i spent a lot of time relatively 3-4 hours looking at a lot of old threads on forums to try and find the best fluids to put in my vehicle.
    motor oil, trans fluid, diff fluid, hydraulic fluids.

    1. motor oil - mobil 1 full synthetic probably the most debated topic on threads i've found the most commonly used is . 15w-50 which is heavier then the factory reccomends. also depends on your climate where you live. 0-40 isnt uncommon either below are good reads:

    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...il-weight.html
    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...il-weight.html
    http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12776
    http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12776
    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...il-change.html

    2. transmission fluid - Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic, seems to be the most commonly used as well, again I've researched a lot of sites,
    to come to this conclusion. below are the threads:

    http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...id-for-a-GEN-3
    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...ion-fluid.html
    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...ion-fluid.html
    http://forums.viperclub.org/archive/...t-661524.html?

    3. differential fluid - MOPAR 75w-140 synthetic, also MOPAR 4oz of friction modifier, do not forgot it takes two fluids for this job, friction modifier,
    and synthetic diff fluid. here are the fact finds:

    http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/...ial-oil-change...
    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...id-change.html
    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...id-change.html
    http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...ction-modifier

    4. hydraulic fluids for the master/slave cylinders,MOPAR dot 4 full synthetic some vipers come with dot 3,
    almost everyone swaps to dot 4 for the higher boiling point.
    NOTE; IF YOU SWAP DOT4 INTO DOT3 BLEED THE WHOLE SYSTEM TO GET RID OF THE OLD DOT3 FLUID OR YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS LATER ON

    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...ing-after.html
    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...tch-fluid.html
    http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...luid-reservoir
    http://www.viperalley.com/forum/vipe...-question.html
    http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/...leeding-14817/

    5.hydraulic brake fluid, same as your transmission hydraulics, MOPAR dot 4 for the higher boiling point,
    OR;
    keep both brake fluid and master/slave cylinder hydraulics dot 3
    NOTE; keep the same DOT fluid wether it be dot 3 or dot 4 in BOTH the braking system and the hydraulic parts of the transmission DO NOT MIX THE TWO.

    i hope this helps out, i took a lot of time researching some of the best fluids to put in my viper hopefully this saves someone a lot of time.
    again this is a highly debatable topic i simply compiled a list of most talked about and most used fluids and ive posted my sources.

    there are a few more threads that may be useful. feel free to add on to this list or put your input in, or if i have wrong information up here fell free to comment below.
    cost me around $250 for all my fluids, and i still have quite a bit left over.
    heres a few pics of my voi9 for fun

    viper5.jpgviper4.jpgviper3.jpgviper2.jpgviper1.jpg

  2. #2
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    What is going on with your lower side sills? Whats the dark areas suppose to be?

  3. #3
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    What a great thread, thanks for all the research, don't forget fuel too, and while add it might as well mention Radiator, AC coolant and gulp washer fluid, that should cover all the bases.

    Bruce

  4. #4
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    I like the Penz 5w40 for the road cars and the Motul 300v 15w50 for the track. For non-cataylst cars there are many great racing oils.

    BG Syncromesh transmission lubricant for the transmission, outperforms anything else I have tried. T56/T6060 approved

    Syngear differential fluid (sold through Unitrax) friction modifier is in it.

  5. #5
    its a carbon fiber wrap to protect the rockers from debrees. comes right off and i can put another on when it takes a beating.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cragin View Post
    I like the Penz 5w40 for the road cars and the Motul 300v 15w50 for the track. For non-cataylst cars there are many great racing oils.

    BG Syncromesh transmission lubricant for the transmission, outperforms anything else I have tried. T56/T6060 approved

    Syngear differential fluid (sold through Unitrax) friction modifier is in it.
    While I don't know Dan, nor have I had dealings with Dan, if Dan says it, it's words of wisdom.

    +rep for Dan and his support for Viper.

  7. #7
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    I just went through fluids in my car...most of the Gen 3 fluids carried over to the Gen 4, but there are a some exceptions, especially with the transmission. Here's what I've currently got in mine:

    Engine oil: Mobil 1 0w40 European formula. 15w50 should only be used for tracked cars, and the owner should be careful to make sure the fluids are up to full operating temps before getting on it, otherwise you risk collapsing the oil filter. I only use the SRT filter (Mopar part number 05038041AA)...seems to be well made.

    Transmission: the Gen 4s spec'd a lighter ATF+4 fluid for the TR-6060...this is much closer to a 30 weight fluid. I've used the stock fluid, Motul ATF, and now Castrol Transmax ATF+4. The Motul ATF felt a little smoother than the stock fluid (granted, that's probably because the stock fluid had never been changed after 10,000 miles), and the Castrol ATF+4 feels about the same as the Motul. I've not tried a heavier fluid.

    Clutch: use at least a DOT 4 fluid. If you have headers, this needs to be checked regularly...stock exhaust manifolds don't seem to cook the fluid nearly as quickly. I used Castrol SRF this time around, but have used Ate Typ 200 in the past with success. I'd probably change it at least every year, more often if you track the car or have headers.

    Brakes: again, DOT 4 should be the minimum. I used Castrol SRF this time around as well.

    Power steering: the Gen 4s use ATF+4 in this as well, so I just swapped it out with the same Castrol Transmax ATF+4 I just put in my transmission. The fluid that came out was likely the OEM fill, and it looked new at nearly 15,000 miles.

    Rear diff: use a full synthetic 75w140 with Mopar friction modifier, unless you are using the Castrol Syntrax LSD fluid that already has the friction modifier already added (Mopar part number 68197927AA). I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75w140 with a 4 oz. bottle of the Mopar friction modifier. These cars take a surprisingly small amount of diff fluid considering how much heat is generated back there. When mine really needed changed shortly after I bought it, the front tires would skip across the ground when trying to make a sharp turn on a cold start (backing out of my garage). It stopped doing that with the new fluid.

    Coolant: I replaced the original Mopar orange stuff with Zerex G-05 fluid (it's more of a yellow color). Takes about 3 gallons to drain and refill the system if you aren't removing the engine freeze plugs, which I didn't do since it wasn't recommended. If you don't buy pre-mixed (and I didn't), use distilled water to dilute.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOLO View Post
    its a carbon fiber wrap to protect the rockers from debrees. comes right off and i can put another on when it takes a beating.
    Would an expel clear wrap be a lot more appealing? I have that on all my cars and love it! Sorry but IMO that carbon fiber kills the lines of your drop dead sexy car. Big time.

  9. #9
    Great info. Thanks.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by JOLO View Post
    its a carbon fiber wrap to protect the rockers from debrees. comes right off and i can put another on when it takes a beating.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bmw2nv2000 View Post
    Would an expel clear wrap be a lot more appealing? I have that on all my cars and love it! Sorry but IMO that carbon fiber kills the lines of your drop dead sexy car. Big time.
    I'm going to have to afree with Bmw...take that wrap off and get the Xpel clear guard put on it. It's tougher and will not destroy the lines on the car like the carbon fiber wrap does.

  11. #11
    Would the same information apply to forced induction? is 0-40 still recomended for a paxton gen 3 out in 100 degree dry weather?

  12. #12
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    Someone who, many would go with Mobil 1 15W-50 for the application you describe.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve-Indy View Post
    Someone who, many would go with Mobil 1 15W-50 for the application you describe.
    Awesome! Thank you! And for cooler weather as of late october till May of next year is 0W-40 good or still stick with 15W-50?


 

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