Engine\Diff\Tranny\Brake fluid change

[Tamvette]

Decided to change all fluids and changed brake pads of my 2013 GTS before I do a few track days in the next few weeks. It has about 4000 miles and 1 track day on it. (I drive it more than it sounds, purchased it "new" about 8 months ago).

I noticed some people asking for an easier way to fill transmission and diff fluids on multiple threads (none of the threads I found were Gen 5 specific as I couldn't find any), please see below picture for alternative way. (If this is a known method, feel free to ignore)

A couple things I noticed: (No, I didn't collect any oil to be analyzed, only my observations)

- Diff fluid had some particles in it(Still less than my other vehicles), also it was very runny comparing to new diff fluid. Used Amsoil severe gear 75w-140 until it started to leak out.
- Transmission fluid looked fine, didn't find any particles. Used about 3.5 quarts of Amsoil ATF.
- Stock brake pads were half gone and rotor thickness was about 31.4 mm. I read the min is 30 and it starts with 32 so I am hoping rotors will be fine next 2-3 track days.
- Engine oil dipstick is the worst I have ever used. I added about 10.8 quarts and after checking it 10 times, I am still not sure if I overfilled or if it needs more I went with 0-40w Mobil 1 European formula as I couldn't get the stock fluid locally. I did drain the oil for about 45 mins as I saw that was recommended.
- You need T30 and T40 for belly pan. (I had 3 different torx kits, none of them had T40 so I took trip to HD)
- I did have one screw up while I was bleeding the brake fluid. I wanted to get all the old fluid out and I was peeking at the reservoir from RR and it seemed like it still had fluid. I didn't notice baffling kept fluid on windshield side but it had actually run out of fluid. Ended up with air in the system, it took about a bottle of Motul to get all the air out. I am still not sure if any could be remaining in ABS system. : ( I couldn't do any real test yet but the brake works but the pedal is not as stiff as I would like. I am hoping it is because the pads are not bedded in yet.

Tranny\diff fill method:
Simply fill the container and lift it higher than transmission\diff until it all flows down. ( I got lazy and held the container myself instead of installing a hook on the ceiling, turned out to be more tiring, especially with diff fluid)
ViperTransmissionFluidChange.jpg

Stock brake pads vs New (I went with Raybestos ST47 fronts and ST45 rear)
ViperBrakePads.jpg

[Jack B]

A small hand pump that fits into a 1 qt bottle is fast clean and simple.

Be careful with using a non-oem tranny fluid. Parts within the synchro assembly are non-metallic and some fluids make them swell. You can tell pretty quick, the in/out of gear will fight you, especially, out of gear.

[Tamvette]

I always made a mess with hand pumps and especially diff was difficult, I was working with jack stands at the time though.

I called Amsoil and got their recommendations for these but I will watch out for issues. My quick test drive was fine.

[dewilmoth]

Anyone have the torque values for the drain and fill plugs on the trans and diff? I may change my fluids tomorrow if I get the time.

[Steve M]

Anyone have the torque values for the drain and fill plugs on the trans and diff? I may change my fluids tomorrow if I get the time.

The Gen 3/4 specs are 15 ft-lb for the differential (drain and fill), and 20 ft-lb for the transmission (drain and fill). Personally, I've never pulled out a torque wrench for any of those...I prefer the old German "gudentite" torque spec. They are pipe threads, so I always put a little RTV on them to help them seal.

[Jack B]

The hand pump I am referring to has a barb on the output hose, it sticks in the fill hole and will not back out. You are right though, it is hard to do a spotless refill of either the diff or trany.

s

I always made a mess with hand pumps and especially diff was difficult, I was working with jack stands at the time though.

I called Amsoil and got their recommendations for these but I will watch out for issues. My quick test drive was fine.

[7TH_SIGN]

I use a fluid pump for diff and trans oil changes. They are really cheap and make the change easy.

[dewilmoth]

Changed my diff and trans fluid this morning. I used Castrol ATF+4 in the trans and Castrol Syntrax 75w-140 in the diff. The only tools necessary are a 3/8" ratchet, 5/16" Allen for the diff drain, and t30/t40 for the under tray. The other drain and fill ports are 3/8" square ratchet size. My original trans fluid looked perfect and the diff oil looked moderately dirty, but nothing alarming. At least in my case, it could have waited a while, but the fluids are cheap insurance and there's no point to taking the under tray off without changing both.

[Policy Limits]

I flushed my brakes a few months ago after 3 years of ownership. And by that I mean I paid my dealer 300 bucks to do so. Ha.

[Tamvette]

The hand pump I am referring to has a barb on the output hose, it sticks in the fill hole and will not back out. You are right though, it is hard to do a spotless refill of either the diff or trany.

s

I hear you. Although I do remember some manufacturers bottles neck design prevented from proper fitment. I drove the car as hard as I can drive in the street and didn't see any kick back issue with the transmission. Is there specific scenario you could experience this? I will be doing a all day long open track session next week, I am wondering if I should change it back to stock fluid.

[Jack B]

I tried a non-oem fluid and it was obvious, after hard eng braking, I could feel the synchros resisting
from 2nd to 1st and from 4th to 3rd.

It was not severe, but, noticable. I had used the BG fluid previously and had no problem, i was surprised when the Royal Purple caused this problem.

I hear you. Although I do remember some manufacturers bottles neck design prevented from proper fitment. I drove the car as hard as I can drive in the street and didn't see any kick back issue with the transmission. Is there specific scenario you could experience this? I will be doing a all day long open track session next week, I am wondering if I should change it back to stock fluid.

[Stealth]

You guys are more handy than I am on these matters. My Local Dealer usually handles these procedures.

For those of you having your Dodge Dealer handle these fluid changes, what are you paying? I usually supply the brake fluid (Castrol SRF). My charges were $571 not counting oil and filter (I bought a dealer package on oil and filter). My car has 7400mi. now and all of the fluids except coolant were changed at 4,000mi.

[allans]

I had my Porsche Dealer change my trans and dif fluids today. I supplied them. Labor 2 hours , $270. Lots of that was removing ACR Panels and reinstalling. No Dodge Dealer nearby that I trust! Sad. Best, Allan

[F2V]

I flushed my brakes a few months ago after 3 years of ownership. And by that I mean I paid my dealer 300 bucks to do so. Ha.

That is funny! I'm exactly the same way. As a matter of fact, I've only washed the car 'myself' twice in 3 years...