ARP Wheel Studs

[Scott_in_fl]

These cars definitely need a bunch of spacing. Why can't all of the mfg's space the wheels properly like the 991 GT3RS? Those rears are spot on.

So, how much spacing to get this done right, who do we get the hubcentric spacers from, and how long do the studs need to be?

GT3RS.jpg

[sadil]

These cars definitely need a bunch of spacing. Why can't all of the mfg's space the wheels properly like the 991 GT3RS? Those rears are spot on.

So, how much spacing to get this done right, who do we get the hubcentric spacers from, and how long do the studs need to be?

GT3RS.jpg

Not disagreeing with you but the GT3RS actually had a recall due to their front tire clearance. The front tires were tearing apart the wheel well and they had to make some adjustments. I agree though that the regular Vipers were kept unnecessarily high. I am trying to solve this on my TA.

[Scott_in_fl]

Well, that is a problem

But still, the overall wheel/tire diameter on the Viper seems small for the size of the car and the spacing is horrific. Looks like it needs 20's at all four corners with a larger profile tire so that it has some "meat" to fill those wheel wells. Then it would need more of a drop so that it does not look like a 4x4. Again, the GT3RS look is perfect in this regard (not a fan of the car otherwise).

[outnumbered]

I am assuming that IPSCO's external hub design spacers are both hub and wheel centric? I am thinking of going 0.420" in the rear and 0.5" up front on my TA.

IPSCO are not wheel centric.

[sadil]

IPSCO are not wheel centric.

I think you may have purchased their spacers prior to the addition of the second type of spacer with an external hub.

http://www.ipsco.org/Viper_files/Vip...%20spacers.htm

Thats the one I am looking at. You are correct that the first type are not.

[outnumbered]

I think you may have purchased their spacers prior to the addition of the second type of spacer with an external hub.

http://www.ipsco.org/Viper_files/Vip...%20spacers.htm

Thats the one I am looking at. You are correct that the first type are not.

I evidently did. Glad to see they changed.

[Redx]

Yes the hubs need to be removed. Also its good to get a six bolt round template or used wheel to confirm all the studs press in straight. For the rear bearings you need the relieve the pressed end just a bit so the stud slides in correctly. It pretty much explains itself when you do it. A good 4 hour job.

Hope this helps

Sorry to bring this up from the dead, but I purchased the arp wheel studs through Baer and they are not d shaped from factory, and hit the inner hub, I'm sure they can be forced, but do they need to be ground down to a d to clear? Or just giv'r as is? Gen 4 btw thanks

[Dan Cragin]

Yes, I typically grind the edge down on the wheel stud inner flange so it has a D shape. They will go in without doing that, but its much easier that way.

[Dan Cragin]

An engineer at SRT told me that the wheels are tucked in some as it aides the aerodynamics of the car and brake cooling. They confirmed this in the wind tunnel, it creates a low pressure area.

[Redx]

Yes, I typically grind the edge down on the wheel stud inner flange so it has a D shape. They will go in without doing that, but its much easier that way.

Thanks Dan!

[BlueAdder]

No the studs are NOR breaking. This thread is about putting the 3" long lug studs on the car, and then running a thick spacer over the studs. That combo can result in broken studs.

The stock studs do break. I was getting my tires replaced on the ACR and 5 out of 6 studs were broken or about too. I got lucky. Took 45 mins for the dude at big o to replace them.