ARP Wheel Studs

[Tay]

Does anyone know the correct ones or part number to buy? There are multiple ones to choose from and searched the forum as well.

There are a bunch here: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...e/1-2-20-in-rh

and here:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...22+wheel+studs

[Dan Cragin]

They are sold through Bear brakes.

[Tay]

They are sold through Bear brakes.

Thanks Dan! That helped a lot. I think I found them.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/136/6280011/10002/-1

[XSnake]

Tom Francis should also be able to help you out.

[Tay]

Tom Francis should also be able to help you out.

Thank you XSnake.

[Arizona Vipers]

Hey Tay, did you break any of your factory studs?

[Tay]

Hey Tay, did you break any of your factory studs?

I haven't broken any studs, but i hear people are. So I am this just for preventative measures.

[VIPEREPIV]

I've got the 3 1/2" ARP studs (made for BAER) on my TA 2.0.

[Tay]

I've got the 3 1/2" ARP studs (made for BAER) on my TA 2.0.

You also have the TPI lug nuts correct? How do you like those?

[VIPEREPIV]

You also have the TPI lug nuts correct? How do you like those?

Love TPI nuts!

By the way, I have my oem studs just sitting here if you want them, along with extra boxes of TPI nuts, free. As you can tell, I'm in SD county.

[w00tw00t]

I did a a ton of research and this is what I got finally, Todd sent me this info:

[sadil]

http://www.jegs.com/p/Baer-Brake/Bae...35255/10002/-1

Is the second one on this page correct?

[Tay]

http://www.jegs.com/p/Baer-Brake/Bae...35255/10002/-1

Is the second one on this page correct?

Yes. You are correct: http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/136/6280011/10002/-1

[sadil]

For install of the extended studs, is it necessary to remove the hub and bearing assembly? The manual suggested this route.

[Dan Cragin]

Yes the hubs need to be removed. Also its good to get a six bolt round template or used wheel to confirm all the studs press in straight. For the rear bearings you need the relieve the pressed end just a bit so the stud slides in correctly. It pretty much explains itself when you do it. A good 4 hour job.

Hope this helps

[outnumbered]

Yes the hubs need to be removed. Also its good to get a six bolt round template or used wheel to confirm all the studs press in straight. For the rear bearings you need the relieve the pressed end just a bit so the stud slides in correctly. It pretty much explains itself when you do it. A good 4 hour job.

Hope this helps

For those of you that installed the 3.5" ARP's, did you end up cutting them down? I got mine installed today, and I think that they will stick out from my TPI open lugs.

[Redx]

I did a a ton of research and this is what I got finally, Todd sent me this info:

Any reason why these say not reccomended for wheel spacers? i Need to run a 0.6" spacer for my 3 piece setup and cant run a bolt on.

[Redx]

I did a a ton of research and this is what I got finally, Todd sent me this info:

Any reason why these say not reccomended for wheel spacers? i Need to run a 0.6" spacer for my 3 piece setup and cant run a bolt on.

[LATAMUD]

With a spacer you run the risk of bending or shearing the studs.

[docwviper]

Studs on the Gen V are breaking? First I've heard of this on here?

[steve911]

Studs on the Gen V are breaking? First I've heard of this on here?

No the studs are NOR breaking. This thread is about putting the 3" long lug studs on the car, and then running a thick spacer over the studs. That combo can result in broken studs.

[outnumbered]

Any reason why these say not reccomended for wheel spacers? i Need to run a 0.6" spacer for my 3 piece setup and cant run a bolt on.

Odd, as most people buy ARP studs specifically for wheel spacers.

[steve911]

Odd, as most people buy ARP studs specifically for wheel spacers.

It makes a difference if the whether or not the spacers are hub centric or not. If the spacers do not intermesh with the wheel and bearing, all of the stress is on the studs increasing the potential to break one.

[outnumbered]

It makes a difference if the whether or not the spacers are hub centric or not. If the spacers do not intermesh with the wheel and bearing, all of the stress is on the studs increasing the potential to break one.

That's why it is important to go with spacers that are both hub and wheel centric

[sadil]

I am assuming that IPSCO's external hub design spacers are both hub and wheel centric? I am thinking of going 0.420" in the rear and 0.5" up front on my TA.