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Thread: ARP Wheel Studs

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  1. #1
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    ARP Wheel Studs

    Does anyone know the correct ones or part number to buy? There are multiple ones to choose from and searched the forum as well.

    There are a bunch here: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...e/1-2-20-in-rh

    and here:

    http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...22+wheel+studs

  2. #2
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    They are sold through Bear brakes.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cragin View Post
    They are sold through Bear brakes.
    Thanks Dan! That helped a lot. I think I found them.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/136/6280011/10002/-1

  4. #4
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    Tom Francis should also be able to help you out.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSnake View Post
    Tom Francis should also be able to help you out.
    Thank you XSnake.

  6. #6
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    Hey Tay, did you break any of your factory studs?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arizona Vipers View Post
    Hey Tay, did you break any of your factory studs?
    I haven't broken any studs, but i hear people are. So I am this just for preventative measures.

  8. #8
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    I've got the 3 1/2" ARP studs (made for BAER) on my TA 2.0.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VIPEREPIV View Post
    I've got the 3 1/2" ARP studs (made for BAER) on my TA 2.0.
    You also have the TPI lug nuts correct? How do you like those?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tay View Post
    You also have the TPI lug nuts correct? How do you like those?
    Love TPI nuts!

    By the way, I have my oem studs just sitting here if you want them, along with extra boxes of TPI nuts, free. As you can tell, I'm in SD county.

  11. #11
    I did a a ton of research and this is what I got finally, Todd sent me this info:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by w00tw00t View Post
    I did a a ton of research and this is what I got finally, Todd sent me this info:
    Any reason why these say not reccomended for wheel spacers? i Need to run a 0.6" spacer for my 3 piece setup and cant run a bolt on.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redx View Post
    Any reason why these say not reccomended for wheel spacers? i Need to run a 0.6" spacer for my 3 piece setup and cant run a bolt on.
    Odd, as most people buy ARP studs specifically for wheel spacers.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by outnumbered View Post
    Odd, as most people buy ARP studs specifically for wheel spacers.
    It makes a difference if the whether or not the spacers are hub centric or not. If the spacers do not intermesh with the wheel and bearing, all of the stress is on the studs increasing the potential to break one.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve911 View Post
    It makes a difference if the whether or not the spacers are hub centric or not. If the spacers do not intermesh with the wheel and bearing, all of the stress is on the studs increasing the potential to break one.
    That's why it is important to go with spacers that are both hub and wheel centric

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by w00tw00t View Post
    I did a a ton of research and this is what I got finally, Todd sent me this info:
    Any reason why these say not reccomended for wheel spacers? i Need to run a 0.6" spacer for my 3 piece setup and cant run a bolt on.

  17. #17
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    http://www.jegs.com/p/Baer-Brake/Bae...35255/10002/-1

    Is the second one on this page correct?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sadil View Post
    http://www.jegs.com/p/Baer-Brake/Bae...35255/10002/-1

    Is the second one on this page correct?
    Yes. You are correct: http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/136/6280011/10002/-1

  19. #19
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    For install of the extended studs, is it necessary to remove the hub and bearing assembly? The manual suggested this route.

  20. #20
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    Yes the hubs need to be removed. Also its good to get a six bolt round template or used wheel to confirm all the studs press in straight. For the rear bearings you need the relieve the pressed end just a bit so the stud slides in correctly. It pretty much explains itself when you do it. A good 4 hour job.

    Hope this helps

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cragin View Post
    Yes the hubs need to be removed. Also its good to get a six bolt round template or used wheel to confirm all the studs press in straight. For the rear bearings you need the relieve the pressed end just a bit so the stud slides in correctly. It pretty much explains itself when you do it. A good 4 hour job.

    Hope this helps
    For those of you that installed the 3.5" ARP's, did you end up cutting them down? I got mine installed today, and I think that they will stick out from my TPI open lugs.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cragin View Post
    Yes the hubs need to be removed. Also its good to get a six bolt round template or used wheel to confirm all the studs press in straight. For the rear bearings you need the relieve the pressed end just a bit so the stud slides in correctly. It pretty much explains itself when you do it. A good 4 hour job.

    Hope this helps
    Sorry to bring this up from the dead, but I purchased the arp wheel studs through Baer and they are not d shaped from factory, and hit the inner hub, I'm sure they can be forced, but do they need to be ground down to a d to clear? Or just giv'r as is? Gen 4 btw thanks

  23. #23
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    An engineer at SRT told me that the wheels are tucked in some as it aides the aerodynamics of the car and brake cooling. They confirmed this in the wind tunnel, it creates a low pressure area.

  24. #24
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    With a spacer you run the risk of bending or shearing the studs.

  25. #25
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    Studs on the Gen V are breaking? First I've heard of this on here?


 
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