Replacing Stabilizer Bar Retainers and Bushings - GEN II

[LifeIsGood]

IPSCO Front and Rear Stabilizer Bar Retainers and Bushings
Replacement Instructions

I used the IPSCO Stabilizer Bar Retainers and Bushings. They're made from billet 6061-T6 aluminum. The kits use ENERGY SUSPENSION's performance polyurethane bushings. I chose the sets with zerk fittings. I have a GEN II therefore I installed the 1 1/16" set on my front stabilizer bar and the 7/8" set on my rear stabilizer bar. Later GEN vipers have the 1 1/16" stabilizer bars on both front and rear.

Tools:

• Socket wrench
• 15 mm socket
• 10-12" Socket extension (front)
• 4-6" Socket extension (rear)
• Breaker bar
• 3/8" or 8mm hex or T50 Torx bit

Parts:

• Stabilizer bar bushing retainers - 2 per bar (supplied)
• Stabilizer bar isolator bushings - 2 per bar (supplied)
• Retainer attaching socket head cap bolts - 4 per bar (supplied)

Supplies:

• Grease (supplied)
• Loctite red

Removal

Raise the viper on a lift or via a floor jack and jack stands.





Remove the retainer attaching bolts (15 mm) securing the stabilizer bar bushing retainer to the frame rail (front) or frame rail bracket (rear).
Remove the bushing retainer from the stabilizer bar.
Remove the isolator bushing from the stabilizer bar by opening the slit in each isolator and peeling the bushing off.
This can be made easier by pulling the stabilizer bar away from the frame rail (front) or frame rail bracket (rear).

Installation





Thoroughly clean the stabilizer bar and frame rail (front) or frame rail bracket (rear) in the area where the isolator bushing makes contact.



Apply the supplied grease to the interior surface of the isolator bushing.



Install the new isolator bushing on the stabilizer bar by opening the slit in each and then wrapping the isolator bushing around the stabilizer bar positioning it next to the bushing retainer ring.
Position the bushing retainer over the isolator bushing.
Apply Loctite red to the threads of the new socket head cap bolts.
Insert the new socket head cap bolts through the bushing retainer and frame rail (front) or frame rail bracket (rear).
Once each side has been installed and aligned, tighten the retainer socket head cap bolts (3/8" or 8mm hex or T50 Torx bit) and torque them to 50 ft-lbs.
Wipe away excess grease.
Lower the viper.

 
Additional Installed Pictures

Front passenger side:



Front driver side:





Rear passenger side:











Rear driver side:









 
Zerk fitting:

[BAD BOYZZ GARAGE]

Great write up !!

Bad Boyzz
Toddy

[C.J]

Looks good and great photos. How will these affect the handling? It will be interesting to see how often you need to grease them. I've heard that poly bushings can be pretty noisy, but you have the zerk fittings to take care of that! What type of grease would need to be used to grease the bushings?

Thanks for sharing these pics! The caps look great -- another IPSCO home run.

[ViperTony]

Ken, how often do the bushings need to be greased? I heard they tend to squeak if not greased as part of routine maintenance.

[My98RT10]

Another great write up by LiG. He definitively is the benchmark when it comes to How-To's!!

[GBS]

Thanks for the write up! I just purchased new Stabilizer Bar links for my 02 ACR. I still need to install them. Instead of the OEM links I went with the adjustable links from SnakeOylProducts.

[LifeIsGood]

I've installed these retainers/bushings and the IPSCO billet steering rack bushings and the response seems tighter, but I'm not a track expert. Mark says that they should be greased every two years or so and any suspension grease is good. The greaseable bushings are designed to hold grease in channels cast into the bushing, the cast channels also wrap completely around the bar so that the grease being applied will get all around the bar. I haven't heard them squeak ever.

[ViperTony]

Thanks Ken. Excellent write up. I'm adding this to my winter mods list.

[Suitejudyblueyes]

You are too good Ken; thanks for the effort to document your R&R procedure. I know IPSCO Mark likes to recommend red Loctite for most of his bolt-ons (esp. brake caliper brackets), but I down-select to blue Loctite and would do so for the bushing caps. Otherwise a splendid writeup!

[VinnyRusso]

Any additional feedback on if this upgrade was noticeable?

[C5Longhorn]

would also be interested in any feedback on this change.

[Boosted Motorsports]

Any additional feedback on if this upgrade was noticeable?

would also be interested in any feedback on this change.

Very noticeable change. Car handles much better and more flat.

It is very obvious the difference when you remove one swaybar mount from one side. The OEM bushing on the opposing side will let the swaybar literally fall and droop significantly. When you go over to the other side to remove the remaining OEM bracket & bushing, the upgraded bracket & bushing on the opposing side will hold the sway bar in place while you re&re the old one and you can see just how much sturdier the swaybar is with just one upgraded mount and bushing.

[01sapphirebob]

Completely ridiculous question but do the wheels have to be removed to install these? I can easily access these when the car is in the air on my four post lift.

[Viper98]

Ipsco does a great job on the caps of the bushing, there is no doubt.

If the fancy caps are not your thing here are some alternatives:

Viper Depot carries Energy Suspension. The bushing is poly and the cap seems to be the same as the stock caps, but a zinc colored instead of black. They fit right into the stock cap.
You can purchase directly from Energy Suspension. The stock caps can be reused and the bushing itself can be replaced, if desired, or the whole poly bushing assembly can be purchased.
Since the sway bars can't be seen I saw no need to be all fancy like so, from Viper Depot, I purchased the whole kit: front and rear with new zinc colored caps. Yes, they have the grease zerks.

Viper Depot: $28.00/pr front, $28.00/pr rear
Energy Suspension: $22.12/pr front, $22.12/ pr rear

Installation is straight forward: the stock bshgs are easy to remove, but you may need strong fingers to get the poly bshgs open enough to mount on the bar.

[01sapphirebob]

Ipsco does a great job on the caps of the bushing, there is no doubt.

If the fancy caps are not your thing here are some alternatives:

Viper Depot carries Energy Suspension. The bushing is poly and the cap seems to be the same as the stock caps, but a zinc colored instead of black. They fit right into the stock cap.
You can purchase directly from Energy Suspension. The stock caps can be reused and the bushing itself can be replaced, if desired, or the whole poly bushing assembly can be purchased.
Since the sway bars can't be seen I saw no need to be all fancy like so, from Viper Depot, I purchased the whole kit: front and rear with new zinc colored caps. Yes, they have the grease zerks.

Viper Depot: $28.00/pr front, $28.00/pr rear
Energy Suspension: $22.12/pr front, $22.12/ pr rear

Installation is straight forward: the stock bshgs are easy to remove, but you may need strong fingers to get the poly bshgs open enough to mount on the bar.

Did you have to put the car on jack stands and take the wheels off to switch these out or would I be able to just get under the car while its on my four post lift and switch them out?

[Viper98]

In short, yes...depending on the lift. I had my car on stands when I did mine, and it was pretty easy. Backs are very easy without tires, but certainly, can be done without tire removal. The bshgs are pretty much right there. Fronts: You may want to find a way to “kinda” hold the bar in place so it doesn’t go wonky on you.