anybody have the specs or suggest a different /better spec?
anybody have the specs or suggest a different /better spec?
See attachment. A lot of the hardcore track guys on this board seem to be bumping up the front camber from -2.8 to -3.0 or even higher..
Please excuse my ignorance, but for the guys using the ACR on the street also, how will it be on the streets with these cambers....? I guess that would also apply to the wheel tire options being discussed. Is there an 18" tire option with treads that can be driven on the street as well as track? (Yes, I know it's a compromise...)
thanks guys, some people are complaining of cording the front tire, same thing I have going on on a acr-e im working on, im thinkin when these cars are new,they all have factory height,after lowering the car,it throws off the toe,everything looks good on the car im working on but the toe is off
alignment comes after its lowered
dont these cars get shipped at factory height? I think some are lowering the car and not re-alighning the car, cause the one I have the toe is off,everthing else looks good
I had mine aligned after lowering it to SRT recommended track height. I dropped it 1" front and 1/2" rear. Doing so threw everything off. It took the shop 4 hours to set the alignment. I went with the SRT specs listed on the chart above. No track time yet. Corner weighting is recommended as well. I haven't performed that yet since I didn't have access to scales at the time.
There is much to be gained by redoing the factory shipped alignment whether you keep it at delivered height or lower it. There are tolerances at the factory and you can always improve the setup. Also if the shop is capable the rear toe pattern is generally .30 degrees off on the drivers side during a 2" droop (similar to hard high speed braking) redoing it do be perfect helps a bunch with stability.
Xsnake, yes re: carbon
Have a race shop do it. You have to add drivers weight and corner balance the car at the same time
We have 5 of our enclosed trailers traveling all across the country pretty much 356 so if you would like I could get you on the list for a backhaul if we are coming anywhere close to you. We could get it all set up and you could come drive it home or we can help bring it back, you will be charged for the return trip though.
thanks guys, I have a brand new 2016 state of the art hunter alighnment rack,so im good there( other than rear caster read) but may take you up on a haulback for my t/a 1.0 for recalls and a arrow controller..
Sounds good, just shoot me an email to mark.jorgensen@woodhouse.com or there is a contact form at woodhousemotorsports.com.
I use the factory specs, other than front camber, I decided to go with -2.5 vs -2.8 in hopes to save a little bit of tire. I usually go through a set of front in about two weekends (4-5 track days). The rears, probably 9-10 track days. Factory/OEM tires, Girodisc rotors/pads, stock wheels.
If you run your viper on the street and have a good time with it then the factory alignment specs will do you just fine. If your a track only viper driver or you track your viper alot or maybe you want to maximize your vipers all around performance street and track the factory recommended alignment and setup specs are definitely not what you want. You also have the problems that make setting up factory stock vipers properly for track use near impossible. Front and rear bump-steer not even close to zero, rubber control arm bushings adding spring rate and causing severe binding and problems scaling car, and the factory sway bars no where close to neutral and bind under load. There is no doubt vipers factory stock performance will still knock your socks off but when you address and fix all the little problems your viper becomes a comfortable easy to use track weapon thats cheap to run.
Just a note of appreciation for your super-fine products. The adjustable end links are beautiful - can't wait to get out on the track with them!
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