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Thread: Mopar headers?

  1. #1

    Mopar headers?

    Anyone ever hear of MOPAR brand headers for the Gen II?? Any good? I managed to win a set on Ebay of new/old stock that were lying around. Says they are stainless all around and look to be slip fit. i was just wondering if anyone had any experience with them. Or know the power gains.
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  2. #2
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    IIRC they are borla
    THE IGNORE FEATURE WORKS, TRY IT...

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by plumcrazy View Post
    IIRC they are borla
    So they fit perfectly and are good quality then?

  4. #4
    Heat wrap or Ceramic coating? Opinions...

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    I you're running stock viper you could do whatever you wanted ... or nothing as the stockers don't have excessive heat issues. Stock heat shields could be reused.

    SRT engineers said that the V10 doesn't gain much from exhaust modifications. Usually about 25whp over the factory short tube headers (98 and up). They also said that the 5 into 1 merge collectors were a 4hp gain over 5 into 2 into 1 systems. However, for a street car the 5 into 2 into 1 style (like a Belanger) is probably superior since you seldom ever drive your car at the redline. Belangers will have more torque and midrange.

    I was told that at high boost my headers will turn red hot in a half minute so I wrapped mine in heat tape and they came coated. My supercharged engine is only 700whp so I left them open (they're coated).

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by RTTTTed View Post
    I you're running stock viper you could do whatever you wanted ... or nothing as the stockers don't have excessive heat issues. Stock heat shields could be reused.

    SRT engineers said that the V10 doesn't gain much from exhaust modifications. Usually about 25whp over the factory short tube headers (98 and up). They also said that the 5 into 1 merge collectors were a 4hp gain over 5 into 2 into 1 systems. However, for a street car the 5 into 2 into 1 style (like a Belanger) is probably superior since you seldom ever drive your car at the redline. Belangers will have more torque and midrange.

    I was told that at high boost my headers will turn red hot in a half minute so I wrapped mine in heat tape and they came coated. My supercharged engine is only 700whp so I left them open (they're coated).
    Well 25 HP from a bolt on is fairly decent increases. IMO. Im doing it mainly for the sound. My exhaust is just too quiet for what the car is.

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    You can improve the sound by starting the engine and backing it out of the garage like you're going to drive it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    You can improve the sound by starting the engine and backing it out of the garage like you're going to drive it.
    Haha thats soooo true!!

  9. #9
    These headers have some weird 45% add on with the O2 sensor in it which would put the O2 sensor near the door of the car way back. Obviously I can not use these add on tubes and dont know why they make them that way...I need to ad an O2 bung somewhere along the headers, any idea where the best spot is? Do you want it closer to the header or farther back???

    Also the Ceramic coating does not look like a possibility because of the slip fit. It would make the ends way too tight to assemble.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    you can improve the sound by starting the engine and backing it out of the garage like you're going to drive it.
    lmfao.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by ViperTony View Post
    lmfao.
    I dont get what is so funny about that comment..i drive my car almost every day. Sooooooooo....

  12. #12
    Man Im batting a thousand when it comes to headers...These did not fit either..I dont know what they are for but its not a Gen II Viper i can tell you that. They arent even close.

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    I would get some M&M headers. They come up used occasionally. Ask around, maybe some one has some.

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    I just had a set of M&M's put on my '01(thanks Jon B ). The guy that did the install said the passenger side went in just fine, but the drivers side was a PITA. Had to trim out a bit of the gusset plate on the frame to get it to fit. Not sure if that's just a one off case or if others have had the same. But now they are in, and 3" straight to the back with two Magnaflow resonators at the end. Sounds great!!

  15. #15
    M&M headers are great and the service from the manufacturer is superb. I had similar fitment issues with the driver's side pipes fouling the sill opening.

    I had to shim the engine mounts up by making thin stainless steel shims so that the collector pipe of the driver's side clears the sill opening.

    Good luck with your project

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by mad prof View Post
    M&M headers are great and the service from the manufacturer is superb. I had similar fitment issues with the driver's side pipes fouling the sill opening.

    I had to shim the engine mounts up by making thin stainless steel shims so that the collector pipe of the driver's side clears the sill opening.

    Good luck with your project
    did you have OEM motor mounts or aftermarket?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BrianACR View Post
    I just had a set of M&M's put on my '01(thanks Jon B ). The guy that did the install said the passenger side went in just fine, but the drivers side was a PITA. Had to trim out a bit of the gusset plate on the frame to get it to fit. Not sure if that's just a one off case or if others have had the same. But now they are in, and 3" straight to the back with two Magnaflow resonators at the end. Sounds great!!
    You had to cut the frame to make them fit??? Jeez....This is not looking promising..

  17. #17
    VOA Member 99RT10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianACR View Post
    I just had a set of M&M's put on my '01(thanks Jon B ). The guy that did the install said the passenger side went in just fine, but the drivers side was a PITA. Had to trim out a bit of the gusset plate on the frame to get it to fit. Not sure if that's just a one off case or if others have had the same. But now they are in, and 3" straight to the back with two Magnaflow resonators at the end. Sounds great!!
    Your engine wasn't square in the cradle I bet. Very common to have it shift slightly over time with the torque these engines produce and the wear of the engine mounts.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianACR View Post
    I just had a set of M&M's put on my '01(thanks Jon B ). The guy that did the install said the passenger side went in just fine, but the drivers side was a PITA. Had to trim out a bit of the gusset plate on the frame to get it to fit. Not sure if that's just a one off case or if others have had the same. But now they are in, and 3" straight to the back with two Magnaflow resonators at the end. Sounds great!!
    Did you check your motor mounts? I replaced mine and they cleared. They wouldn't before. I think some are making the mistake of installing these with trashed motor mounts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dajerseyviper View Post
    Man Im batting a thousand when it comes to headers...These did not fit either..I dont know what they are for but its not a Gen II Viper i can tell you that. They arent even close.
    I hate to say this, but stop being cheap. How many times do you have to bang your head against the wall. The latest crop of Gen II owners (I'm not singling you out) want to put Chinese crap and or Second hand junk on their cars. You might have paid pennies on the dollar, but you bought an exotic. Buy some legit tried and true products and move forward.

    Brian ACR, really the guy cut your frame to install headers. At what point do you realize something is wrong and hacking the car is not the solution. This is why stock cars are always worth more than modded cars, because people with no clue are effectively destroying the car. It costs a crap load of money to undue the work of morons.

  20. #20
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    Here is a piece of actual advice that might help the one person who is actually interested in doing the job correctly. When you change headers, without exception you should put in a BRAND NEW set of factory mounts, not Pep Boys sourced mounts or any other aftermarket mounts. If your interested in a Poly mount, the only one that I personally know works, is the Woodhouse mount. It's designed to a specific durometer for the application. The reason you need new mounts, is that the OEM mounts are very soft and begin to sag within months, not years of use. They are super soft and isolate vibration but they sag regardless of mileage.
    Why is this so critical, because headers tend to have longer and or larger tubes than the stock design. The factory clearances go away rapidly when your trying to put more material in the same space. Some manufacturers may use a donor car that has mounts that are either fresh or old, this is why aftermarket stuff generally isn't as good as OEM quality with regards to fitment.. It's because a part may get designed using just one vehicle or a number of vehicles that may have other modifications that may somehow affect fitment.
    Another critical thing to consider is that the OEM motor mounts have a protective shield. Many guys pitch these when they install new mounts, again likely because they get in the way of the install or the headers due to header proximity. Don't throw them out, especially with poly motor mounts, they WILL burn up.
    I understand this will all go to deaf ears, with all the experts here, but possible someone will take some free advice.

  21. #21
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    Put on some new mounts and try again. The Borlas should be just fine. Looking at them, they are GEN 1 or 2 headers. Not a lot of other V-10s out there so doubt they are not for your car. Not sure how many exhaust systems you have installed but you know you install all parts loose then slowly tighten up each area before you hard torque any single part of it. Makes a huge difference.

    You want the o2 in the collector. That is the best place.

    I put NOS Edelbrocks on mine and new Woodhouse mounts. Headers fit great but the pre cat tube on the passenger side was a little off. Not a big deal so we just made it work between factory tube and the tube from the Edelbrock set. They should be real close though. Time and flex will shift some things. Should never cut the car to fit. That is India design stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Camfab View Post
    I hate to say this, but stop being cheap. How many times do you have to bang your head against the wall. The latest crop of Gen II owners (I'm not singling you out) want to put Chinese crap and or Second hand junk on their cars. You might have paid pennies on the dollar, but you bought an exotic. Buy some legit tried and true products and move forward.
    Amen brother. Been there myself. Just call M&M and get a set of their headers and be done with it. I suggest M&M because they fairly priced for the OPs price range. Worth the savings alone just from the aggravation factor.
    Last edited by ViperTony; 06-17-2016 at 07:12 PM.

  23. #23
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    used m&m headers pop up occasionally, wait for them
    THE IGNORE FEATURE WORKS, TRY IT...

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    You had to cut the frame to make them fit??? Jeez....This is not looking promising..[/QUOTE]

    No, didnt have to cut the frame, just slightly trim aa gusset plate. Wasn't too bad. Although I wasn't the one doing the work soooo....
    Changing the motor mounts probably woulda been a good idea. I'll hafta look into that.
    I'm sure you won't have any issues with m&m if you decide on that.
    99RT10 is probably correct when he says that my engine wasn't square in the cradle.

  25. #25
    There was a used set of Belanger's on eBay. They needed a little welding work to be perfect.


 
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