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  1. #1
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    1996-98 Key fob reprogram for dummies.

    My battery went dead in the fob so I replaced them both. Fob is dead until you reprogram so I thought I would post to help out.

    1) Remove knee bolster cover. Screws circled in red.

    2) Crawl under and look for the green wire with the female connector end on it.

    3) I chose to run a wire to the ground connection up front with some wire I had laying around to the green wire for reprogram. Cut the wire and bend it in half if you don't have a thick enough gauge wire or crimp a male connector on the end for a proper connection.

    4) Have both your fobs in hand and turn your ignition to the on position. Red alarm arming light on dash should be blinking. If not you don't have a connection from the green wire to ground.

    5) Hold both buttons down on fob until you hear a fast triple chip from the horn. When heard, proceed to the next fob holding both buttons for the triple chirp. You are done. You have 60 seconds according to the service manual to do this or it with cut off and you will have to start over.
    Last edited by Geronimo; 04-30-2016 at 07:37 PM.

  2. #2
    Thanks for the write up. I have been putting this off for a while. Need to get out in the garage and do it.

  3. #3
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    Had to do this a few times.

  4. #4
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    When I did this on my 97 Viper, the 97 service manual states "Send transmitter code by pressing either button on the transmitter". Very frustrating until I double checked the procedure here on the Forum. As stated above "Hold both buttons down on fob" is the correct procedure.
    Print date on service manual is 6M0197.
    Not sure if other years service manuals also have this error.

  5. #5
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    Weird, I was looking for a new fob since ours is broken. I found this however which is a bit different?

    https://theviperstore.com/Viper_TH-V...structions.htm

  6. #6
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    96 to 98 Key Fob programming

    The following is from a post (on the other Viper Club Forum) from Indy Member Ron.
    I know that first hand this works on the 1997 GTS in my Garage.
    I have never done this on my 2001 RT, but it may be the old "the Year Matters" syndrome.
    Geronimo did title thread "1996-98 Key fob reprogram for dummies".

    [I]"Default Re: Programming remote controls



    Let's make this easy:

    1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

    2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.

    2A. (1999 ~ 2002) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC, Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee

    2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

    Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

    3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

    4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:

    - Have the wrong wire

    - Aren't solidly grounded

    - You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

    5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

    5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

    Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.

    6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

    That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.

    I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire."

  7. #7
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    thread copied to "HOW TO" section
    THE IGNORE FEATURE WORKS, TRY IT...

  8. #8
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    I just added 2 new fobs (transmitters) working along side my old fob using the steps above. It was even easier for me after seeing the pictures above.

    Since it looked like the green end wire for programing was to the right of the vent tube "under the bolster panel" (I did NOT take off the panel, only the fuse access door) I just reached up and found it.

    Next I took a short wire with a twisted looped end, pushed it hard up into the green wired connector (just feeling it, not seeing it) and clipped the other end to the bar in front of the fuse box.

    I reprogrammed all 3 fobs (holding down both buttons - like it says on the back of the new replacement fobs). Start to finish it took me less than 3 minutes.

    Thanks above for all the help. Its really very easy to do it yourself.

    Gen2_fob.jpg

  9. #9
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    Which procedure does the Gen 1.5 (1996 RT/10) require? Being a mix of Gen 1 and Gen 2, just need to know what I may be looking at. Have new transmitters but been too chicken to program them and accidentally lock myself out. I don't even use the fob for anything in the end. No windows or roof so don't even bother like locking the car but may if new transmitters worked.

  10. #10
    The only unanswered question is: what to do if your fob batt dies with the car in armed status? I always keep the alarm armed while in garage. Do i need to keep it unarmed in case fob battery dies?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black94rt/10 View Post
    The only unanswered question is: what to do if your fob batt dies with the car in armed status? I always keep the alarm armed while in garage. Do i need to keep it unarmed in case fob battery dies?
    As I remember from the past with other cars, if the fob and receiver in the car is synced, if the battery dies in the fob, you just replace the battery. The codes are still stored in the fob.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnakeWatching View Post
    As I remember from the past with other cars, if the fob and receiver in the car is synced, if the battery dies in the fob, you just replace the battery. The codes are still stored in the fob.
    I replaced the battery in both fobs just to have fresh ones. Codes were lost on both.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geronimo View Post
    I replaced the battery in both fobs just to have fresh ones. Codes were lost on both.
    Well that's strange, after I programmed my 3 fobs, I dropped the old style square fob on the ground (split open and battery fell out), I took the battery and tested it, put it back in and tested arming the car - it worked fine on my 1997 GTS

    BUT - I do see from the original post that you stated "My battery went dead in the fob so I replaced them both. Fob is dead until you reprogram"
    Last edited by SnakeWatching; 09-15-2016 at 10:42 AM.


 

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