Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 34
  1. #1
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    276

    Window stuck down

    Well, today my driver side window decided to stay down. I've removed the door panel, but not sure where to go next. I've read where the little white plastic guides wear out, but they look ok and even if I wanted to replace them I don't see a way to get to them ? I plan to swap the switch with the passenger side to see if that helps.

    Any other ideas?

  2. #2
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    48
    Could be the door wire harness. Know problem for gen II

  3. #3
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    South of London, Surrey
    Posts
    7,577
    OK, if you have the door panel off, when you move the switch back and forward can you hear the regulator motor trying to move?

    If you hear nothing then its either the contacts in the switch (which can be cleaned) or a broken wire between the switch and the window regulator (assuming you have checked all fuses
    Open the door fully and trace back the wires from the regulator. It is a common fault to have a wire break between the door and Hinge area, pull back the rubber weather tube and carefully go through the wires to see if you find a broken one.

    If you have a spare 12volt battery you can unclip the terminal block in the door that goes to the regulator and using a couple of bits of spare wire touch the terminals of the regulator directly which will confirm that the regulator is working. If it is then trace your problem back.

    There is a HOW TO Guide posted about the Window regulator.

    Link here : http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...ndow-Regulator
    Last edited by Fatboy 18; 04-10-2016 at 04:11 AM.

  4. #4
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    276
    I unplugged the switch connections under the dash and swapped them. This got the driver window to go up, albeit pressing down on the driver passenger switch. Does this sound like the square switch module is bad?

  5. #5
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    South of London, Surrey
    Posts
    7,577
    Remove radio surround which holds the window switches (just carefully pull it out) you can then remove the switch terminal blocks. You will find the switches held in place by some x head screws. You can carefully unclip the top part of the switch and clean the copper connections with a bit of grit paper or a needle file

    However I am talking about the later switches like this
    2204.jpg

  6. #6
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    South of London, Surrey
    Posts
    7,577
    If you have the earlier style rocker switches, these are hard to find. you may need to contact the Viper salvage yards!

  7. #7
    More than likely the switches are common to other Chrysler products. Take the old one to a junk yard and match it up!

  8. #8

  9. #9
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    276
    I'll take a crack at cleaning the terminals, thanks again!

  10. #10
    I have the earlier switches (96 GTS) and had the same problem with the passenger side window, but staying up. I took them out of the car, removed the plastic cover and cleaned the contact points with a q-tip and electrical cleaner. Fixed the problem and took 10 minutes.

  11. #11
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    South of London, Surrey
    Posts
    7,577
    Quote Originally Posted by MacGyvers Mullet View Post
    I have the earlier switches (96 GTS) and had the same problem with the passenger side window, but staying up. I took them out of the car, removed the plastic cover and cleaned the contact points with a q-tip and electrical cleaner. Fixed the problem and took 10 minutes.
    Good info, I have no experience of the earlier switches, I did not know you can also take them apart

  12. #12
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Mass
    Posts
    1,079
    Standard part number DS1129.
    This is an older Dodge Caravan switch that is exactly what's in my 96 GTS. All you have to do is take the top Plastic cover off your original Viper switch and snap it on the new switch. all connections / mounting are exact! replacing will get you a brand new driver and passenger switch. Cleaning did not work for me, mine had mechanical issues...
    Mine did the same thing, window went downy but no uppy...
    Last edited by daveg; 04-11-2016 at 07:11 PM.

  13. #13
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    276
    Mines a 2000, so I don't think the ds1129 part will work, but I hear ya about replacing the switches.

  14. #14
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    South of London, Surrey
    Posts
    7,577
    Quote Originally Posted by daveg View Post
    Standard part number DS1129.
    This is an older Dodge Caravan switch that is exactly what's in my 96 GTS. All you have to do is take the top Plastic cover off your original Viper switch and snap it on the new switch. all connections / mounting are exact! replacing will get you a brand new driver and passenger switch. Cleaning did not work for me, mine had mechanical issues...
    Mine did the same thing, window went downy but no uppy...
    Another good post on the early switches

  15. #15
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    276
    Replaced the switch and boom! ! Got a working power window again. I went ahead and replaced the passenger switch as well.

  16. #16
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    South of London, Surrey
    Posts
    7,577
    Great to hear Thanks for keeping up updated

  17. #17
    I am having this same problem. Is there an easy way to test the window regulator without taking out the switch? Unfortunately I have the cable for my automatic shifter running through where the switches are at and I will probably have to remove the entire shifter which I really don't want to do.

  18. #18
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Lynn's GTS
    Posts
    377
    Quote Originally Posted by daveg View Post
    Standard part number DS1129.
    This is an older Dodge Caravan switch that is exactly what's in my 96 GTS. All you have to do is take the top Plastic cover off your original Viper switch and snap it on the new switch. all connections / mounting are exact! replacing will get you a brand new driver and passenger switch. Cleaning did not work for me, mine had mechanical issues...
    Mine did the same thing, window went downy but no uppy...
    Correct. I ordered 2 from Rockauto just to have a spare.

  19. #19
    I m having the same issue. My driver side window is not going up. I can hear the motor working. So I m assuming it could be the white plastics.

  20. #20
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    South of London, Surrey
    Posts
    7,577
    I hope you did not run the motor for too long, sadly the steel cable will be twisted up in the mechanism if you did!

    You can straighten it out using a good set of grips stretching the cable out, If you can hear the motor then your problem is the plastic shuttle.

    Check out the how to guide for replacement.

  21. #21
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Murphy
    Posts
    112
    Just did mine, windows did not want to go up or down very well. 15 minute job and now it works great!

    Quote Originally Posted by daveg View Post
    Standard part number DS1129.
    This is an older Dodge Caravan switch that is exactly what's in my 96 GTS. All you have to do is take the top Plastic cover off your original Viper switch and snap it on the new switch. all connections / mounting are exact! replacing will get you a brand new driver and passenger switch. Cleaning did not work for me, mine had mechanical issues...
    Mine did the same thing, window went downy but no uppy...

  22. #22
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    12
    I changed the switches & solved my problem but when i lowered the pass side window I heard a loud POP.

    Any idea what that would have been?

    Maybe the Window Regulator Repair Clip?

  23. #23
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Driving around with contaminated fluids braking at 95% while squirting WD40 in people's locks
    Posts
    3,036
    Take the interior trim panel off, pull the watershield away, and inspect the window. At minimum lubricate the front and rear tracks and the cable drive with grease before you button it back up. I use white lithium chassis grease when I do mine. If makes a huge difference in how smooth it works. And obviously replace anything broken.

  24. #24
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    257
    Those who hasn't had to replace the regulator: be happy.
    I has a hard time getting the wires back on the regulator.

  25. #25
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    992
    Luckily my windows are still working but I bought myself the clips already some time ago to be prepared. I need to admit, that I mostly drive with the windows down, I very rarely operate these...


 
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •