Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1

    Anybody seen the Rail Ryder trailer loading system in action?

    Here are my options on a race trailer for my new ACRE

    This nice ATC for ~$20k with winch and straps

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZACuJd08k8

    or


    A nice ATC trailer with this Rail Ryder system for ~$27 (also includes all straps and winch).

    http://www.railryder.com/

    System adds $12k to the trailer, but you don't need all the extra side doors and ramps on the "Corvette trailer" to make it easier to tie down. As a youngish, athletic guy, I don't need the extra ease of the Rail Ryder, but like my buddy said - about the time I scuff the bumper or wheels on the ACR or worse yet, one of my other more expensive cars, trying to winch it into the trailer by myself, I'll be kicking myself for not throwing down the extra $5-10k.

    Any thoughts/opinions on or, better yet, real world experience with the Rail Ryder are greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    I honestly don't think the ACR-E will clear the rail rider because of the front splitter design with extension installed. I just spent Friday with 3 ACR-E's at the track and they are low. I have no experience with the rail rider system, but having loaded and unloaded my cars at least 100 times, I see it as not necessary and only more stuff to go wrong. Plus I use my trailer at the track for relaxing, changing, eating, etc and the added crap on the floor would just become a PIA. If you close the ramp door, all those tire trays would be inside and in the way. (if I'm understanding how the system is stored with an empty trailer)

    I would recommend the trailer with an electric winch (with wireless remote) and the side doors at each wheel. I have a non ACR Viper and can barely get frame straps to the front frame tie down "D" hole positions without the straps touching the bottom of the front of the car. I've used the over the tire tie down straps as shown in the video with E track on a friends trailer and they work great. With access doors at each corner, you'll literally be able to tie down the car in minutes with no drama or having to be a contortionist. Make sure you get some sort of ramp extensions for the rear ramp door to allow for a very low approach angle. I bought Race Ramps designed for ramp doors. When I load or unload my cars, the first thing I do is put a couple of plastic service ramps under the rear tires of my truck and drive up on them. This allows an even better approach angle and the cars just roll out using their own weight and the winch controlling the rate of roll out speed. This makes it a one man operation and if you unlock the steering wheel nobody has to be in the car...it will pull in and roll out of the trailer self centering itself if you have a center mounted winch.

    If you don't already have front tow hooks on the Viper, I've found the IPSCO units work very well. I use two and bridle them when loading and unloading the Viper so the Viper pulls in nice and straight. Because of your rear diffuser, I only see straps going over the tire or using a strap through the wheel to tie down the rear. No way to connect to the frame anymore because the straps would contact the diffuser blades.

    Good luck!

  3. #3
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Bolton, MA
    Posts
    335
    Looking at some of the cars they are loading, it might work fine on a really low car like an ACR.

    To me the larger issue is this system changes the ramp so you can't load anything else. I bring a big toolbox to the track and also have a rolling tire cart - no way to load these with this system in place. Would have to add a separate side door with ramp just for "accessories."

    I do have a winch in my 34' gooseneck ATC, and that works reasonably well for loading/unloading a tight clearance car.

  4. #4
    Thanks-both of you have some good incite. As a fair skinned guy, part of the benefit of the trailer is to be able to get out of the sun, and with only the ramp and one door in the Rail Ryder equipped trailer, it could get a little stuffy unlike the Corvette trailer that is pretty wide open. Something the Rail Ryder guy said was the amount of doors on the Corvette trailer could seriously affect the rigidity and structural integrity of the trailer - anyone buying that?

  5. #5
    "Something the Rail Ryder guy said was the amount of doors on the Corvette trailer could seriously affect the rigidity and structural integrity of the trailer - anyone buying that?"

    Not in the least.....if it is decently made, the framed in structure of the door frame would probably make it stronger. 95% of the trailers strength comes from the floor/frame under the car, the sides don't really do much other than hold up the roof.

    38D brought up the best points against the rail ryder....you'd be hard pressed to used the trailer ramp and floor for other things. I always bring a 3000 watt generator to the track to run the A/C, microwave or battery chargers...it rolls up the ramp and straps down behind the car. The rail ryder system would make that very challenging.....not to mention loading tires, tool boxes, ice chests, etc.

    If you're building a new trailer from scratch, I highly recommend having them install an air conditioning unit, a fold up couch/bed and a side shade awning, preferably electric with a remote control. The couch/bed folds up flat over the passenger side wheel well. Nothing is better than having shade outside the trailer to sit under or park the car under. When inside the trailer, it does get stuffy and having the A/C on makes it very nice to relax in between session, get out of the wind or just take a nap in comfort when it's blazing hot outside.

    The 4 "tire doors" are by far the best idea I've seen on a trailer in a long time. I don't even care about the big drivers side escape door, because once you use a winch with a remote, you'll never care to drive a car in and out of a trailer again. (at least that's my opinion). The ACR is very wide with little room for error when driving in (hitting the front canards on the trailers wheel well humps would really suck). With the winch, you have total control and can make minor adjustments for super easy vehicle alignment.

  6. #6
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Bolton, MA
    Posts
    335
    AC is a must. I also have fridge and sink which is super convient to have. And a bed in a carpeted area over the gooseneck. It's like minimalist living quarters setup.

    If you can tow a goose/5th wheel, you won't regret it. Way more stable than a bumper pull.


 

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •