Alright... Leaking Fuel Tank on a 2002 GTS

**Luisv** · 12-26-2013

I have been hit with the leaking fuel tank issue (seeping leak where the fuel neck attaches to the tank) on the GTS FE. It is small and I have patched it with plastic epoxy and some fuel resistant RTV, but it will surely rear its head soon again. I have now found out that the fuel tank is not made anymore. As a result, I will have to resolve it another way. What options do I have?

Fuel tank from an earlier car? I know the filler neck issue is there on the later Gen II's but not the earlier. Is this true?

Has anybody found a permanent fix for the original?

Anybody make an aftermarket tank?

Does anyone have the design spec for the original?

Anything would be awesome......

Thanks,

**NI-KA** · 12-26-2013

I have seen threads on this subject. I think that this may not be unique to you.

**Sam Goldfarb** · 12-26-2013

It won't be cheap, but I have a neighbor that makes aluminum tanks from scratch. He can duplicate it down to 1/8" accuracy or less. He does work for Rahal's Indy car chassis and his son is on their Rahal Audi team.

Strangely enough I just picked up a metal tank from a friend that owns a radiator repair shop. Not sure if the process would work on your leak! He cleaned and then sealed the entire inside with some type of epoxy sealer. It's about a 10 gallon tank and the cost was $164 with tax. He also added a drain petcock to help his process and to be able to drain the tank easier.

I have another tank just like it that has started to leak. It's a Kubota. The first tank I bought cost $328. I was going to bite the bullet and buy another when the replacement started to weep at a cinch weld seam. The cost, 5 years later is almost $600, hence my trip to the repair shop, next option was to call in some favors owed and get the Rahal guy to build me one!

**XSnake** · 12-26-2013

You need to figure out which tank you have as there are 2 different ones. They are vented differently. Easiest way to tell is the fuel pump module itself. If you have the vent tube coming out of the module you have the older style tank. Newer style tank has it's own vents and the module looks the same a the Gen 3 ones. They will have the electrical plug and the feed line only.

After that you can call Scharfs for another tank if you wanna replace the whole thing. Do you have any pics of damage or problem area? If you drop the whole thing it can probably be fixed.

**plumcrazy** · 12-26-2013

pics would help. if think a good patch with maybe a boot would work around the neck

**Luisv** · 12-26-2013

I'll see if I can get some photos, but now you'll see the fix.

What transpired is that I started to get the smell of fuel when I would pull the cover off when the tank was more than 3/4 full. I started to search hoping I could see it and I discovered a dirty frame member on the car. Basically, there was some grime on the chassis, behind the rear, passenger side, lower suspension arm. It was like dirt stuck to spilled oil or evaporated fuel. Greasy stain. I get up under the car regularly and clean it from underneath and even remove wheels to clean the suspension. The stain was there for a short time only.

Once I found that stain it was a matter of looking up and seeing the seeping stain on the side of the tank. It is seeping right where the rubber filler neck goes into the tank. The plastic neck is apparently pressed in. The seam seems to fail. I pulled the wheel well cover back a bit and was able to reach in there. I cleaned it well with about 1/4 tank of fuel. This way I was sure there would be no seeping. Once completely clean, I scuffed the area very well. I got a fuel tank repair kit. It is specifically made for this. It is a two part epoxy "clay" that you knead together and then press into place. I let that dry overnight. Once dry I went a step further and put RTV over the top of that going all around the epoxy fix.

This resolved the problem for about 3 months. I even drove it on a 3000 mile cruise and no issues. This week I began to get a faint smell of fuel again. I am assuming it is the fix that is beginning to fail. Hence the questions. I'll try to get you some photos in the next few days.

**Luisv** · 12-26-2013

Originally Posted by Sam Goldfarb

It won't be cheap, but I have a neighbor that makes aluminum tanks from scratch. He can duplicate it down to 1/8" accuracy or less. He does work for Rahal's Indy car chassis and his son is on their Rahal Audi team.

Strangely enough I just picked up a metal tank from a friend that owns a radiator repair shop. Not sure if the process would work on your leak! He cleaned and then sealed the entire inside with some type of epoxy sealer. It's about a 10 gallon tank and the cost was $164 with tax. He also added a drain petcock to help his process and to be able to drain the tank easier.

I have another tank just like it that has started to leak. It's a Kubota. The first tank I bought cost $328. I was going to bite the bullet and buy another when the replacement started to weep at a cinch weld seam. The cost, 5 years later is almost $600, hence my trip to the repair shop, next option was to call in some favors owed and get the Rahal guy to build me one!

I may go with the aluminum tank option. I posted on another thread about the design of the tank. If I can get that, I will have them make it. I have a guy as well that makes tanks for me. I used them for a custom tank on a restoration I am working on. Complete with baffles and a sump. I am sure they can do this... for the right sum. However, if there is somebody that has the plans... so much the better!

Originally Posted by MTGTS

You need to figure out which tank you have as there are 2 different ones. They are vented differently. Easiest way to tell is the fuel pump module itself. If you have the vent tube coming out of the module you have the older style tank. Newer style tank has it's own vents and the module looks the same a the Gen 3 ones. They will have the electrical plug and the feed line only.

After that you can call Scharfs for another tank if you wanna replace the whole thing. Do you have any pics of damage or problem area? If you drop the whole thing it can probably be fixed.

I've heard I have two tank options but I thought all were the same for each year. In other words, all 2002's had the same tank. I asked about the possibility of using the "better" of the two tanks in the car. In other words, if they would be swapped. My understanding is that the older versions did not have the failure of the neck.

If I am going to go through the trouble, I would probably shy away from the same tank. I'd hate to do this for it to fail again! Also, I would imagine they are not cheap. If the difference between the stock tank replacement and a custom aluminum tank is a couple hundred, I rather do it right once. Double the price... that may be a different issue all together.

**XSnake** · 12-26-2013

Originally Posted by Luisv

I've heard I have two tank options but I thought all were the same for each year. In other words, all 2002's had the same tank. I asked about the possibility of using the "better" of the two tanks in the car. In other words, if they would be swapped. My understanding is that the older versions did not have the failure of the neck.

If I am going to go through the trouble, I would probably shy away from the same tank. I'd hate to do this for it to fail again! Also, I would imagine they are not cheap. If the difference between the stock tank replacement and a custom aluminum tank is a couple hundred, I rather do it right once. Double the price... that may be a different issue all together.

Yes, you can easily use the older style tank. You'll need to add the vent tube and the other emissions valve to the top of your pump module. I've done it on my car as I've put a complete Gen 3 bucket in mine and added those things as I have the older style tank.

**99RT10** · 12-26-2013

Originally Posted by plumcrazy

pics would help. if think a good patch with maybe a boot would work around the neck

This, plus try not to fill it up completely when re-fueling the car.

**Anonymous** · 12-26-2013

Had this same problem w/ my 2001 rt tried plastic weld ,would work we yanked the tank and got a used tank for 325$ been good ever since .

**Luisv** · 12-26-2013

Originally Posted by 99RT10

This, plus try not to fill it up completely when re-fueling the car.

.... OK... while in town for short drives... sure. That's what I do... but when on long cruises... not an option. I need to fill.. Besides, sooner or later, a small leak turns into a huge leak.

Originally Posted by Anonymous

Had this same problem w/ my 2001 rt tried plastic weld ,would work we yanked the tank and got a used tank for 325$ been good ever since .

That's what I've been thinking. How did you do the tank swap? Can it be done from under the car, eg. dropping the rear end or is cutting into the interior panels the only way?

**Doug Levin Motorsports** · 12-26-2013

I've seen this for several years, especially on the 2002 GTS. I've replaced the tanks and repaired them as well with good results. They can be repaired but sometimes trying to do it yourself makes it worse. If you re-inspect your car and find it is in fact leaking, let me know and I'd be happy to assist you with the proper repair.

Best regards,
Doug Levin Motorsports Inc.

**Anonymous** · 12-26-2013

Luis,for the rt it not a problem,there's a removable panel, but for the gts you gotta cut the tub,mopar sells the replacement panel for it, I know it sucks but I don't thinks there's any other way.