Built Motor VS Supercharged VS Twin Turbos

[Red Snake]

lol,this thread cracks me up.

[Red Snake]

Heres a supercharged Viper vs a built motor, + nitrous C6 Corvette in a 1/2 mile race.

[Red Snake]

Supercharged Viper vs TT Built motor Cobra making 800+ rwhp in a 1/2 mile race. Note that it takes the whole 1/2 mile for the big hp car to run me down. Look where the cars are when we passed the 1/4 mile markers.

[Red Snake]

Just a few points here as well......I dont have to take my SC car back for re-tunes, I don't have heat soak issues, I don't have "black clouds of smoke" trailing my car. My car was set up and tuned by one the best in the country and it is spot on and dead nuts reliable. Been street driving it supercharged for about 7 years without issue.


This isn't theory, or conjecture on my part. It's real world, first hand experience.

[Nixon's SRT]

My TT wins all day over my Paxton. Matt is right, the quality of the build is what makes the car. Its known that my TT car exploded after I bought it, the Tuner that tuned it had no clue what they were doing. I rebuilt it better than it was, tuned properly, and im still adding stuff to make it perfect, that's part of the game. You also have to buy or build what you will enjoy.

[slitherv10]

Just a few points here as well......I dont have to take my SC car back for re-tunes, I don't have heat soak issues, I don't have "black clouds of smoke" trailing my car. My car was set up and tuned by one the best in the country and it is spot on and dead nuts reliable. Been street driving it supercharged for about 7 years without issue.


This isn't theory, or conjecture on my part. It's real world, first hand experience.

Who did the install and what was the key point that made it a "Better" set up than others and what brand SC and pulley size. Also, what other mods are on the car?

[Dagwood]

I have a Gen 3 and very interested in a NOS system for my stock motor that has nothing but a cat back corsa to stock manifolds and a 355 rear. I would like to put the best heads, cam and headers for sound and power if it's really going to do much more with having a NOS shot of just safe to the motor. What would be your suggestion and do you sell a designed NOS system with a street tune that is not going to kill the car's driveabili
ty?

[slitherv10]

I have a Gen 3 and very interested in a NOS system for my stock motor that has nothing but a cat back corsa to stock manifolds and a 355 rear. I would like to put the best heads, cam and headers for sound and power if it's really going to do much more with having a NOS shot of just safe to the motor. What would be your suggestion and do you sell a designed NOS system with a street tune that is not going to kill the car's driveabili
ty?

You might want to start your own thread on that subject as it has nothing to do with this threads question.....Supercharged, built motor or TT....

There is a few threads here that have NOS information, In fact, there is one I opened up a while ago. Look up my profile and into the threads I started section on my profile and you will find it there.

[Nine Ball]

I have a Gen 3 and very interested in a NOS system for my stock motor that has nothing but a cat back corsa to stock manifolds and a 355 rear. I would like to put the best heads, cam and headers for sound and power if it's really going to do much more with having a NOS shot of just safe to the motor. What would be your suggestion and do you sell a designed NOS system with a street tune that is not going to kill the car's driveabili
ty?

www.nitrousoutlet.com

They sell a Gen 3 plate kit that bolts on behind the throttle body. Best parts in the industry, in my opinion.

[Vipes]

I think everybody should drive a car with big power before they commit. Obviously we all have different goals but in my opinion the sweet spot for a street car with the occasional track run is 600-650 rwhp. Your car is only as fast as your tire will hook. When i had a couple hundred more than that in another car it was always a challenge to get the car to hook in the first few gears even with a drag radial. Street tires were pointless since I found myself doing rolling burnouts in 4th gear. Even with 600ish rwhp in a viper you will need at least a nitto drag radial to hook the first couple gears. Just my 2 cents.

[plumcrazy]

i disagree

[99RT10]

I have a Gen 3 and very interested in a NOS system for my stock motor that has nothing but a cat back corsa to stock manifolds and a 355 rear. I would like to put the best heads, cam and headers for sound and power if it's really going to do much more with having a NOS shot of just safe to the motor. What would be your suggestion and do you sell a designed NOS system with a street tune that is not going to kill the car's driveabili
ty?

I have a set of JM(Jeff Morey) heads for sale. Were just cleaned out and check. Ready to go. PM me.

[Troublemaker]

i disagree

With which part? He said a whole bunch of things.

[Dagwood]

Very interesting post. I would be interested in a system for my stock Gen 3 if you sell them and can recommend a safe set-up for a stock motor. I would like guess about a 100 HP for the street. How would this affect drive-ability? and what are my options on how to set it up?

[plumcrazy]

With which part? He said a whole bunch of things.

the parts in red

I think everybody should drive a car with big power before they commit. Obviously we all have different goals but in my opinion the sweet spot for a street car with the occasional track run is 600-650 rwhp. Your car is only as fast as your tire will hook. When i had a couple hundred more than that in another car it was always a challenge to get the car to hook in the first few gears even with a drag radial. Street tires were pointless since I found myself doing rolling burnouts in 4th gear. Even with 600ish rwhp in a viper you will need at least a nitto drag radial to hook the first couple gears

[Vital velocity]

I had a DLM Paxton supercharged GTS and recently got into a Twin Turbo 06 and there is absolutely no comparison. I enjoyed my GTS but the TT is just a different car and I have enjoyed driving it MUCH more. As others have stated it all depends how you setup and go through with the build. My TT is setup exactly how I wanted to it but building it as such can become very expensive, very quickly.

[Paolo Castellano]

of course I would want what the car can handle stock...I believe I was told that the 96 can handle up to 800HP at the crank safely. So I would be shooting for that if possible. I realize TT is the only way at that Hp level.



According to what you say, if I can only get to 550RW, then it would be stupid for me to spend 10K for 100HP with a supercharger. I might as well get an entry level TT and set it at low boost (650RWHP) and have future capabilities open to me. As things break, just replace them. I can't go any higher than 800Hp anyway without beefing up many parts on the car.
Ii think it looks like TT hands down, as my future goals of more than 600HP, falls in the lap of TT territory.

Here is a video of one of my setups on a bone stock 1996. 818 RWHP and 880 RWTQ on 10.5 PSI on a Mustang dyno.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbF59ZyvA2k

A forged 1996-1999 will hold 800 RWHP all day long.

The question is getting a setup that uses the T-4 exhaust housings and does not have an IC blocking the radiator. My side mount layout achieves this while also providing gravity drain. My setup also provides a cool air intake piping path that all the footwell setups cannot provide due to the layout.

A properly laid out TT setup can road race pretty well at the 600-650 RWHP level.

[Coloviper]

Beauty part of NA and Supercharger builds is they are truly bolt on. A TT build will require some modifications to fit which you can not reverse. Some cutting, trimming, etc. depending on the system chosen. For those anal enough ( I am at times ) this rules out a TT kit for me even though they tend to be the most powerful hands down. They are also the most expensive but you pay to play in the HP Game.

NA builds are old school in a good way as they use trucks, trades and parts to get the most out if a NA design. Whether just heads, intake, cam, simple exhaust , electronics and fuel mods or digging deep and stroking it with all associated ancillary equipment, it requires very knowledgable advice on exactly what to do, buy and what exact combo works. Only if you have this advice at hand, will you achieve the success for all that money spent. No heat soak issues but can have heating issues and other faults if everything does not come together right.

Now supercharging has a benefit of not touching the motor internals at all so you can retain the reliability of the factory build to some extent. You bolt on the blower system with intercooler which takes care of the CAI part ( you retain all original air intake systems. You change out the exhaust by bolting on new Headers, cats and cat back (retain all original pieces) you can add a meth system which is bolt on. You can bolt on new injectors, new fuel pumps, harmonic balancer, etc. ( retain all old parts) finally you can add an SCT to tune it, all of it from electronics to fuel to meth kit, etc. (to go back to factory is a flash away). A lot less evasive.

Each has their own advantages but my opinion is if you want to play and then go back to original, then the supercharger set up has a lot of advantages. It will not make the most power of the three but it is still a very good option. For the money, it is a great option.

Heat soak is an issue if you are driving the crap out of it but most people or majority just like the odd freeway entry rush.

Honestly if you are racing it around a track, do the basic mods (exhaust, CAI, tune, Etc) then upgrade the diff to a Quaife, gears, tranny mods, brakes upgrade, and driving education classes as well as seat time. You can have the best golf clubs in the world but that does not make you a good golfer. It takes all three.

But that is just my opinion.

[Vprbite]

I have gotten spanked at the track by people with way less horsepower, so track performance is about more than that.

Still though, all motor builds just turn me on. I can't afford it right now anyway but I just dig the reliability and the overall way an all motor build goes together. I just dig it is all. Nothing wrong with the other options at all. If I were doing it, I would go all motor, but like anything, decide what raises the flag all the way up and go with it

[slitherv10]

The best build seems to be the most reliable one.

You could make the car more powerful than a locomotive but, at the end of the day if it does not run properly and take you where you going with no issues, then I say that is the best build.

It seems I am getting all kinds answers. SC guys are complimenting those, TT guys are saying that is the way to go and NA guys are saying that is the ultimate build.

Too confusing really. I would say go with whatever fits your pocket.

Cheapest bang for you buck seems the SC, then the NA, then the TT. Reliability seems to follow the same order, although they all depend on the builder and tune of course. Again no definite answer.

I am leaning towards a SC for the street but not ruling out NA. TT is too much for my application. Street driving.

[RTTTTed]

I agree with Red Snake. My 98 GTS had a 8psi boost HF cats and RT exhaust with smooth tubes, K&Ns with modified airbox. 598whp/644rwtq

I bought a 10psi roe with pistons, headers, 1.7 RR, 2" intake valves, springs, no cats and corsa exh. 689RWHP Added w/m inj and got about 720whp. I've been podium finishing since 2007 with that car. Ported the heads and gained more hp. I love spanking corvettes! Never "heat soaked" because that's a Paxton issue that a few thousand will fix. I have Nitrous solenoids and never bothered to hook up the fuel or bottle. I may "push the envelope" and finish the Nitrous install, but tiny hp as I have stock connecting rods and stock aluminium main caps so my engine is at risk past 750whp.

I bought a Paxton/Nitrous 2000ACR. Never turned on the Nitrous except to make certain that the solenoids clicked. Sold it and the engine blew when the Nitrous gas failed on one side of the engine.

I own a A.R.T. 99 TT GTS. Nothing stock as the 1500+hp requires extreme driveline parts. On pump gas this car goes low 9s and hits 215mph in 3/4 mile. Shitty street tires (BFG KDW) I ran 176mph in a half mile with tires spinning at 140mph at 6,500' alt. Although I bought this as the "Fastest car in Houston" I drove it back to Vancouver and have been fixing or trailering it ever since. Even on pump gas this car is insane! I absolutely love it. I don't feel comfortable driving the car (as I do my Roe GTS) because it has insane amounts of power and stuff breaks. My GForce racing transmission didn't last long and it took a long time and $1500 to fix it. It's a $6500 tranny (probably $7,000 now). Chrome moly dshaft, Billet yokes, titanium axles ($4400), Quaife, Penske shocks, 4" exh. Mega dollar car. I am building it for Bonneville next. I am beginning to think this car is for someone that has too much money.

I enjoy the occaissions that I run my TT GTS, but I drive my Roe GTS thousands of miles, kick ass, bring home the trophies and get 20mpg enjoying myself. This car has only had a plugged fuel filter (breakdown) once!

"Built engines" are pretty reliable, but require high stress parts or they will bust. They also wear out much faster, require high octane fuel and get lousy gas mileage.

[James430]

Thanks for the info....just put a nitrous outlet plate system with a 100 hp shot on my 01 RT/10 with the mods you see in my signature below. Plan on adding a Paxton SC this winter and it sounds like a small shot of NOS for cooling (around 30 hp) will be the ticket ..is that right??.... I'm guessing that with the 512 rwhp I have now the SC should put me around 650 rwhp with 7 or 8 lbs. of boost, Is that pretty close?.....If anybody knows of a Roe SC for sale for a Gen 2 please let me know,would rather have one of those than a Paxton .

Thanks

[plumcrazy]

james, nice setup. the numbers can be much higher or lower depending on the tune. its all in the tune !

[SN95SNAKE]

Very interesting info in this thread.

[repiV]

Great thread with lots of info. I found it because I was wondering which way to go myself on my Gen3 if I decide to mod it. Now that I've read this I now know that all I need to do is build the motor....heads, cam, maybe bottom end, then add headers, exhaust, supercharger, NOS Kit....what's that?....$25K-$35K? A GenV is looking more and more affordable! LOL

Seriously though....great info! Gives a person contemplating more hp a lot of good info and things to think about.