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  1. #1

    It should be worse!

    I read that the Corvette DNF'd at the car of the year competition:

    http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...eek-10.01.2015

    After installing a new 3-pass radiator and installing an under drive pulley, my car still runs up to 245 after a few hard laps. This sucks. I will take the Arrow Controller out next as a last report. I ordered a new Porsche yesterday….so one way or another this BS is fixed. This is my first and last American car.
    Last edited by BLUETA#1; 10-03-2015 at 08:34 AM.

  2. #2
    Sorry to hear of all your troubles. Did you order a 911?

  3. #3
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    Cool story bro. Ill run that complete post through my "WTF is he talking about" translator and get back to you.

    LOL Porsche.

  4. #4
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    Let the never-ending excuses continue. You can't make this stuff up.

    El, oh El.

    (Didn't realize the point of this thread, my comment was in regards to the corvette sewer)
    Last edited by dethred; 10-03-2015 at 05:40 PM.

  5. #5
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    Disappointing but curious to see if it is the controller. Best of luck in your Porsche.

  6. #6
    So the viper finished behind the Focus one year after having parts fly off the car. The vette finishes behind a Golf with a dnf after melting. Where's the face palm emoji?

  7. #7
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    Didn't we establish yours is the only Gen V in the country that's overheating? You should trade cars for a session with someone and see if you can get another to overheat.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voice of Reason View Post
    Didn't we establish yours is the only Gen V in the country that's overheating? You should trade cars for a session with someone and see if you can get another to overheat.
    That's a good experiment, if I were close by, I'd let you take mine for a session.

    For the record, the owner of the group that runs the most track rentals at my local track(not my group) states there is no way a stock street legal car can do under 1:30 on our track, and I have been in the 1:29s on it. My oil and engine temps have never gone over mid way. I only state the above to point out that I'm not driving Miss Daisy around the roadcourse, and have no cooling issues.

    Either way, this sucks for you. It seems all the warm runners are 2.0s, I wonder why?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Voice of Reason View Post
    Didn't we establish yours is the only Gen V in the country that's overheating? You should trade cars for a session with someone and see if you can get another to overheat.
    NO it is not the only car….my old posts on this issue explain that. The other issue is that the people that I see at the track….that do not over heat…(and I time their laps)….are way slower than may lap times. Last time out was was faster that a couple of the ACR-X race cars.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUETA#1 View Post
    NO it is not the only car….my old posts on this issue explain that. The other issue is that the people that I see at the track….that do not over heat…(and I time their laps)….are way slower than may lap times. Last time out was was faster that a couple of the ACR-X race cars.
    Wow. That's very impressive! You're moving.

  11. #11
    Porsches run cooler with the radiator in the back. You know......so they don't pickup the heat coming off the cars in front of them.

    I have been at all day sessions in Las Vegas at the Viper Experience and never saw a single car over heating.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by RAY W View Post
    Porsches run cooler with the radiator in the back. You know......so they don't pickup the heat coming off the cars in front of them.

    I have been at all day sessions in Las Vegas at the Viper Experience and never saw a single car over heating.

    That a good one. The Porsche radiators are actually in the front. The old air-cooled ones are in the rear.

    I have been to a Viper experience. S-L-O-W.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by ViperSmith View Post
    Disappointing but curious to see if it is the controller. Best of luck in your Porsche.
    I have had 9. Never an issue with those cars…other than dialing out the factory installed understeer!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAY W View Post
    Porsches run cooler with the radiator in the back. You know......so they don't pickup the heat coming off the cars in front of them.

    I have been at all day sessions in Las Vegas at the Viper Experience and never saw a single car over heating.
    Not sure what Porsche you are talking about...I had a 2011 GT3RS and it had 3 rads for various cooling items, left/center/right front
    fender and hood areas.

  14. #14
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    I'll give you $500 for the Arrow PCM

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by donk_316 View Post
    I'll give you $500 for the Arrow PCM
    That's a lot for a paperweight, it's married to his VIN.

  16. #16
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    BlueTA#1 my TA 1.0 will hit water temps of 240 and the gauge in the water temp gauge starts blinking red after probably 4-6 really hard laps. I can back down for a bit and it will fall off enough for a few more laps. Someone told me it will go into limp at 245 but ive not let it get that far do you know if that happens? Ive also got the arrow controller so maybe its to blame? I just installed high flow cats after my last track day and was thinking it could only help but i havent had it back on track yet, should find out next week. Seems to happen more on tracks that i use 2nd gear alot. I was considering using mix of water wetter, coolant and water which helped my M3, have you tryed that?

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by lmcgrew79 View Post
    BlueTA#1 my TA 1.0 will hit water temps of 240 and the gauge in the water temp gauge starts blinking red after probably 4-6 really hard laps. I can back down for a bit and it will fall off enough for a few more laps. Someone told me it will go into limp at 245 but ive not let it get that far do you know if that happens? Ive also got the arrow controller so maybe its to blame? I just installed high flow cats after my last track day and was thinking it could only help but i havent had it back on track yet, should find out next week. Seems to happen more on tracks that i use 2nd gear alot. I was considering using mix of water wetter, coolant and water which helped my M3, have you tryed that?
    I tried all the combinations of water wetter, etc. I removed the 6 hood vents, the coil covers, etc. You name it I tried it.

  18. #18
    I think it sucks you are having these issues. Spent even more money to fix and it nothing helps....the triple pass made no difference at all?? I feel as though you are one of the only ones bringing real world data to the table. Everyone else just internet warriors....I can't believe you get flamed. I would be frustrated also. But maybe you are just one of the few that can actually drive the car at a level that makes it overheat.

  19. #19
    Am I the only one who questions what this guys says after he has claimed an air cooled porche has its radiator in the back?

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by TitanSnake View Post
    Am I the only one who questions what this guys says after he has claimed an air cooled porche has its radiator in the back?
    OK…its not a radiator…it’s a fan. The air circulation is from the rear deck lid. (I have had 3 AC p-cars.)

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TitanSnake View Post
    Am I the only one who questions what this guys says after he has claimed an air cooled porche has its radiator in the back?
    There's a lot of things that are questionable about this guy. Apparently he should be a factory racecar driver since he's the only one here to be able to push the car to its limit.

    Not trying to be mean BlueTA, but there is no design flaw with the Viper's cooling. You are not a unique snowflake, and your insinuating that your Viper problem is even of the same universe of that of the C7Z's engineering shortcomings, casts doubts on much of what you say.

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by dethred View Post
    There's a lot of things that are questionable about this guy. Apparently he should be a factory racecar driver since he's the only one here to be able to push the car to its limit.

    Not trying to be mean BlueTA, but there is no design flaw with the Viper's cooling. You are not a unique snowflake, and your insinuating that your Viper problem is even of the same universe of that of the C7Z's engineering shortcomings, casts doubts on much of what you say.
    I mention my background to eliminate that variable. I have 3 North American titles. All I am saying is that MY CAR cannot be run fast for more than 10 minutes. I teach at the track…I am there at every event and I make it a point to time every Viper that I can. The moment I time a Viper that runs 2:24 at COTA for 5 laps in a row without overheating I will run over and try to learn something. I am not saying others are not driving 10/10ths. They can be…albeit slower lap times. I am not saying every Viper has an issue. I am saying that I am not seeing other fast vipers to get a comparison. I do have a network of other drivers who don't post that overheat.

  23. #23
    Bruce H.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUETA#1 View Post
    I mention my background to eliminate that variable. I have 3 North American titles. All I am saying is that MY CAR cannot be run fast for more than 10 minutes. I teach at the track…I am there at every event and I make it a point to time every Viper that I can. The moment I time a Viper that runs 2:24 at COTA for 5 laps in a row without overheating I will run over and try to learn something. I am not saying others are not driving 10/10ths. They can be…albeit slower lap times. I am not saying every Viper has an issue. I am saying that I am not seeing other fast vipers to get a comparison. I do have a network of other drivers who don't post that overheat.
    Then you could have surmised that a driver such as yourself would push the car to the limit at stock power levels. It should have been, and perhaps was, a gamble as to whether you could mod the car to generate more heat by making more power with the Arrow ECU. You're really not being entirely fair to the car to blame it for you running higher temps.

    Very advanced drivers have to take greater care to manage heat, and know that some track layouts, higher ambient temps and use of lower gear/higher revving greatly affects the engine's temps. I have enough track experience with other very aggressively driven top track performers to know that my T/A is still running excellent temps running out front when others are struggling...and somewhere around 100 degrees that I can't take the heat but the car is still doing fine.

    I think aggressive track rats have to accept that there likely will be some combination of factors that can cause their production car to run higher temps, and that it's their responsibility under those extreme set of conditions to take steps to manage them. And if they are unwilling to do that on occasion then they are probably at the point where the only solution is a purpose built race car.

    Hopefully removing the Arrow will keep temps more in check for your tracking conditions. I know the C7 guys haven't found a rad upgrade to do much to lower temps, and that may be the case with the Gen V as well. I also suspect both cars may benefit more from a front design that increases airflow through the rad as opposed to an improved radiator core.

    Good luck with finding a solution, but I have serious doubts that changing to another brand will necessarily be the answer. I'm sure you already considered all other brands before recently choosing the T/A.

    Edit: It's my understanding that the Gen V was stress tested by SRT to run flat out on track for something like 24 hours. They purchased a ZR1 to test it the same way and it failed miserably. When GM claims the C7 was stress tested on track, and that it's the most track capable Corvette ever, those claims have been proven false by hundreds of owners. SRT's claim seems to have been proven to be true, even though you run higher temps in your particular situation.
    Last edited by Bruce H.; 10-03-2015 at 11:02 PM.

  24. #24
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    Did the car go into limp mode and actually overheat? Again Dick said oil temps below 300 (seems high I know but there's tons of Viper V10 racing to support his number), and coolant temps below 260 are just fine in his eyes which I trust.

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by FLATOUT View Post
    Did the car go into limp mode and actually overheat? Again Dick said oil temps below 300 (seems high I know but there's tons of Viper V10 racing to support his number), and coolant temps below 260 are just fine in his eyes which I trust.
    I don't want to toast the car. When the idiot light comes on, I back off. I will say this...with the 3 pass radiator it cooled off really fast. Not even a lap to drop 20 degrees. Part of that could have been the temp….it was only 70 out.

    If its not the PCM, then it is the ride height. The ACR-X has a second opening in front down low to help with this. I am not into fabricating a new front end even though I bought a new grill and I was prepared to start down that road.


 
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