Should there be any cause for concer for members with 2015 vipers? To my knowledge there are no reports but was there anything different with the builds?
Should there be any cause for concer for members with 2015 vipers? To my knowledge there are no reports but was there anything different with the builds?
Yup.. Taking them into consideration as well. When I had a TRD diff installed in my Supra I had to do some figure eights in both directions etc to properly break it in and some simple procedures with the Tilton clutch. So I'm well aware of the other parts that need a proper break in as well. But generally the focus is on the motor... Given that they are revved to redline at the factory and I've followed the book properly so far and it has about 370 miles on it.
I couldn't find a single post in this thread that blames the engine failures on hitting the rev limiter. One post talks about bouncing continuously off the red-line; but, goes on to say that he doesn't think that is the issue here. The other posts are all addressing an mechanical over rev condition caused by a mis-shift from something like 3rd to 2nd when 3rd to 4th was intended. There is no rev limiter that would prevent over rev in that situation. However, I don't think anyone thinks that is what happened in these cases since no engine failure victim has mentioned that situation.
Sure looks like those cars with 8,000 to 20,000 miles are going to be worth a lot more considering there is little chance those motors will blow now. If a known problem with debris, then change oil and filter, run a few miles with a magnet on the new filter, change oil/filter and run a few more miles with magnet on new filter. Three changes like this should leave basically nothing in there if debris related. Cheap insurance if concerned on that front.
Obviously something went awry in process somewhere. Highly doubt it is hitting the rev limiter or that avenue as the cause. Has to be a bad batch of internals and sensors causing issues. It is the only thing making sense.
Maybe I am old fashioned but I would sooner have a dipstick as opposed to an idiot light. One I can trust, the other not so much. A lot of these new vehicles just use oil. Hell the Twin Turbos eat oil in my Cayennes. First few times, they were way down and no light came on to warn. Three (3) quarts low a couple of times for crying out loud. Never made that mistake again and check the dipstick religiously. They use up about a quart every 1,250 miles and have since new. I have 78,000 miles on one and 119,000 miles on the other. Just keep on it and keep them topped off. No burning, no smells, etc. Just the way it is with them.
The programming in the Viper must look for something to be met for what it considers seated and broken it. Could mean different miles on each motor to get to that point.
Funny as the old school ways still apply. Use to be, you ran 500 miles on factory oil and changed it and then 2,500 miles on the next one, then changed it. At that point you could get into regular routine. Then the factory started coming out with this no change BS and special break in oil, you had to keep in there for a long period, yet it is a manufactured product and debris can be an issue still. I am turning 42 next month but there is something to be said for trusted old school ways. So much BS in todays world and products.
My cousin Tommy believes in taking a brand new car off the delivery truck before it goes to any dealer prep and running to redline in each gear right off the bat. He has always done this and had good luck with all of his cars and never blew one of them up, but he has not had a Gen 5 Viper. It would be interesting to see how one would hold up with him owning it. Maybe all the extra little shavings would break up and disintegrate during his break in, who knows. I told him about breaking mine in according to proper procedure and he promptly gave me his speech about how to break in a car and said he would not have a car if it would not take it.
This really is just all anecdotal evidence one way or the other. Arrow runs the engines hard when they test them. The break in is more for the drivetrain parts, as stated before by SRT.
What's the highest mileage 13/14 that had the engine failure? Highest I've read is 8,000 miles reported on a 2013 by another member here.
The exception is the rings, if they do not seal in the first 100 miles, they could take another 2000 miles. That was the case with my car.
What is diff about these cars, is that there is no overt sign of oil consumption, except the dipstick.
I pulled my plugs at 1000 miles and knew two cylinders were using oil. Somewhere around 3000 miles, the rings had sealed.
The only problem I have with SRT, is why do some cars take so long for the rings to seal, is it the dyno?
Last edited by Jack B; 09-29-2015 at 07:48 AM.
I had similar problem as OP back in DEC '13, at 500 miles after first oil change. Turned out there were metal shavings on inside of oil pump cover, caused during milling which missed inspection, that got caught up in the oil pressure relief valve, which in turn caused very low oil pressure that led to my symptoms. Anyway, caught it very quickly in time before serious damage was done. Car has run without problem since at 5800 miles.
http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/1185-My-G5-Problem
So multiple oil changes is a good idea in the first few thousand miles?
Although several guys here have stated their oil levels were perfectly fine when engine failed.
UPDATE: Confirmed Spun bearing on #8. Waiting to hear why they think it happened.
Owners: Please note that I followed all break in and maintenance by the book....including an oil change at 541 miles. This was not enough to keep me from spinning a bearing.
I highly advise 2013 -2014 owners make sure they put at least 10,000 miles on their cars before warranty expires or better yet buy an extended warranty. Make sure you have a dealer change your oil at recommended intervals, so all possibilities of failure are on them. I would not change your own oil while under warranty. I'd even snap a photo of oil levels every time you check it, just for time stamped proof.
I spun a bearing on my 2004 last year and have been meticulous about maintaining this new viper. It really sucks this is not enough to keep the original engine in the car. Now i'll have a blem'd car fax report = decreased resale value. I guess I can fight this and demand a new car, but how long will that take and do I have any chance of winning that fight? Any incite on this? Anyone out there successful at getting a new car?
No need to flame me for being "over protective" if you think I am blowing this out of proportion. Take my advice or don't. Please keep the negative comments to yourself.
While annoying BJG32, look at the bright side. This is a known issue and it is now behind you. You'll have an engine which isn't from the "bad" batch.
Sucks, and I wouldn't be happy, but it could be worse! Any timeline for you yet when it will be replaced?
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