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  1. #76
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    7th Sign

    Just an opinion, that body part comes off without a lot of trouble. Any dealer or body shop can remove the part in 15 minutes. With it removed, send to Prefix and your problems should be done.

  2. #77
    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    7th Sign

    Just an opinion, that body part comes off without a lot of trouble. Any dealer or body shop can remove the part in 15 minutes. With it removed, send to Prefix and your problems should be done.
    DONE! why are you wasting any more time over this?

    Shipping will cost you $30 tops

  3. #78
    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    7th Sign

    Just an opinion, that body part comes off without a lot of trouble. Any dealer or body shop can remove the part in 15 minutes. With it removed, send to Prefix and your problems should be done.
    Quote Originally Posted by DZnutz View Post
    DONE! why are you wasting any more time over this?

    Shipping will cost you $30 tops
    This was my thought for the repair as well. I recived a message from Marvin at Chrysler today stating that any dealership should handling this at their level and should be covered under warranty. He left the dealerships service advisor a message but has yet to hear back.

    I've been trying to get Marvin over the phone and present the idea of me personally removing the panel and shipping it to Prefix for repaint. We will see if he agrees to this.

    I was examining the panel yesterday and it looks as if the black grill connects to the panel. Very tight space. Not sure how I would be able to remove it without removing the entire side sill.

    On a side note I drove the car yesterday and had a great time. Such an awesome machine in its stock form.

  4. #79
    Quote Originally Posted by mjorgensen View Post
    Open the door about a 1/3 of the way and reach in, the black vent is a separate part that stays there.
    Quote Originally Posted by timberwolf View Post
    I removed the screws in the wheel arch, 3 under the hood/the rubber hood grommet, 3 of the underside bolts on the skirt and 4 in the door sill area. This loosened enough to free up some space. The screw that's in the depth of the door sill required 4 extensions on my ratchet, then I used a magnet stick to catch the screw at the end. To replace that screw I used some tape to hold it on the socket. The key with that bolt is to keep the door nearly closed. (Careful not to open your door when the screw is halfway out, or you will catch the edge of the door and scratch paint!!) I had the door closed against my torso to have the right angle in. The second one inside the door area near the mirror area can be reached with more ease.
    Guys, that black mesh vent is held to the panel that needs to be removed, looks like its clipped together. How are you separating them? Thanks for your help.

  5. #80
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    After the two top bracket screws are removed, there is a plastic pin that goes into a hole/slot in the inner panel. I believe if you bend the outside panel outwards the plastic part is free because the pin comes out of the hole.


    Quote Originally Posted by 7TH_SIGN View Post
    Guys, that black mesh vent is held to the panel that needs to be removed, looks like its clipped together. How are you separating them? Thanks for your help.

  6. #81
    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    After the two top bracket screws are removed, there is a plastic pin that goes into a hole/slot in the inner panel. I believe if you bend the outside panel outwards the plastic part is free because the pin comes out of the hole.
    Thank you Jack. Will try that.

  7. #82
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    Grab some pics when you do it I am curious to see myself.

  8. #83
    Quote Originally Posted by ViperSmith View Post
    Grab some pics when you do it I am curious to see myself.
    You got it, will do.
    Last edited by 7TH_SIGN; 09-10-2015 at 09:52 AM.

  9. #84
    Update

    After visiting two dealerships and seeing the inexperience of their employees when it came to Vipers and body work I decided to take care of it myself. A dealerships body shop tech told me he would have to remove the door to get to the hinge panel, that alone made me not want to let them touch the car. Also the fact that the finish wouldn't have matched if I had a dealerships body shop do the paint work. Prefix's quality is very high and among the best I've seen.

    Marvin at Chrysler headquarters and Alan at Prefix took care of me. It took some leg work on my end to get Marvin and Alan in contact with each other but once I did that they took care of me and I couldn't have asked for a better outcome and experience. Marvin had Chrysler cover a new panel and paint under warranty and Alan at Prefix got the job done.

    I received the new panel within a couple days and it was perfect! As for why the original blistered and bubbled, I have no idea. Here is a picture of the original and replacement. The thermal wrap on the new one is placed better imo.

    If you plan on removing this panel shoot me a PM, you can remove the panel without removing the side sills, but you have to be very careful.




  10. #85
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    Man thats great it worked out for you like that. Nice to see Chrysler step up and make it right.

  11. #86
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    Lynchburg, VA
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    Glad to hear they took care of you! I just spent a significant amount of money on a new rear brake duct because I'm also having issues with Virginia dealers stepping up and doing what they need to do... Regardless, now you can go back to enjoying her!

  12. #87
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    That is awesome man! I knew it would work out for you.

  13. #88
    I've been getting a couple PMs with owners having the same blistering and bubbling in the paint in the same location.

    Here is how you remove the panel.

    There is a total of four screws on the hinge panel that need to be removed.

    The plastic grill mesh is attached to the panel and it is almost impossible to detach it from the panel while the panel is on the car. If you try you may snap the plastic tabs. So I would leave it on.

    You will have to remove the screws at the top of the side sill under the hood next to the rubber hood gaurd as well as the screw in the rubber guard.

    You will also remove the three bolts in the wheel wel.

    Then you will remove the screws under the side sill.

    Remove the one screw on the top of the side sill near the lower corner panel screw.

    Remove the three screws holding the side sill Viper kick plate.

    This will allow enough room to remove the panel.

    Use a lot of painters tap to insure you don't scratch the paint because once the panel is free, it will rub agisnt certain areas.
    Last edited by 7TH_SIGN; 09-11-2015 at 09:56 AM.

  14. #89
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    Is it just me, or s the insulation a little closer to the bubble area on the newer panel?

  15. #90
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    My black 2015 is heading to the dealer today with the identical problem... Bubbling paint in the same spot. Only on the passenger side. It's nice to have your account of the issue, and the resolution, before I deal with them. I suspect the insulation on my car wasn't properly installed on that side.

  16. #91
    Share with them my case as well as the solution. I really hope you have better experience at your dealership than I did. Let us know how it turns out. Shoot me a PM if your dealership would like to talk to me. I'll provide you my cell phone.


    Quote Originally Posted by TA Two Oh View Post
    My black 2015 is heading to the dealer today with the identical problem... Bubbling paint in the same spot. Only on the passenger side. It's nice to have your account of the issue, and the resolution, before I deal with them. I suspect the insulation on my car wasn't properly installed on that side.

  17. #92
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    Thanks. The Service Manager took photos and sent them to someone. I shared your experience with him and while I can't say for certain, I have a feeling that things might not have gone as smoothly had I not relayed your story. On a side note, the passenger sill actually burned my wife's leg last night when she climbed out after a short drive. (She's petite, was wearing a skirt, and I'd parked on my lift's ramps, so it was a stretch for her. I've touched the drivers side sill with bare skin many times and it's warm, but never nearly hot enough to burn me. Next time I'll let her out on the driveway!

  18. #93
    Glad my experience helped you. That was my hopes when sharing it here. Let me know if you need anything else.

  19. #94
    Guys I will be speaking with a Viper tech at Chrysler tomorrow in regards to the blistering and bubbling some are seeing on the door hinge panel. Basically they have reached out to me to assist in finding a resolution as well as cause for this issue.

    If you could check your Vipers in this area for blistering and bubbling in the paint and share your Vipers color and current mileage I will relay the information to Chrysler.

    Thanks,
    George






  20. #95
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    Might want to pull down that last photo

  21. #96
    Quote Originally Posted by Malu59RT View Post
    Might want to pull down that last photo
    Hey man, I'll have you know those are hand made and imported from Italy.

  22. #97
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    Damn happening again? That is disappointing!

  23. #98
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    Pretty sure it is heat related. My 96' RT/10 has same bubbling issue on top of rocker and only on passenger side. It is black too.

  24. #99
    It's definitely heat related. My only concern is this. Why isn't it bubbling anywhere else in that area and why isn't it happening on the other side of the car. Why isn't it happening on all GEN Vs? It's almost as if the panel wasn't prept correctly in that small area for paint. The second cat is located there and it is welded so there are no exhaust clamps that would be leaking exhaust heat.

  25. #100
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    I'd imagine their is something wrong with that cat


 
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