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Printable View
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The front was as strait forward as could be. Easy removal and reinstallation. Fish the canister up thru the front of the engine (not many different areas to go) and install the canters with the mount that Mark sent that mounts to the tube cross bar.
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Once they were installed I set the ride height by measuring the frame height centered on the wheels. I set the front at 4 ¼” and rear at 5 ¾” (between the track and street height recommendations). Next I put it on the corner scales and got a cross balance with in 12 lbs. with matching front weight with me in the driver’s seat. It took quite a few tries to get it close. I had weighed the car prior to removal of the old coil overs and it was 96 lbs. off cross corner
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I got the same shocks through Mark as well! He was very helpful. The shocks seem to do very well for me. For what it's worth, they are 1.5 lbs lighter per corner than the factory ACR Bilsteins.
Arizona how light is your car now?
Hawk, do you plan on doing ACR fender vent too?
I have been thinking about it. Just not ready to cut into the hood just yet.
I finally got around to finishing what I started and ordered the fender louvers from Wayne at Xtreme. As always, the CF was top notch as well as his templates. I had a good friend Bennitt help me with the project, the emotional distress of cutting thru the hood was getting to me so he took over! Start by wiping down the area with naphtha to remove any wax or residue and tape up the area with painter’s tape. Locate the top side template and mark out the hole. The top hole was cut using a jig saw, I used Bosch T118B blades (med metal blade) the CF really chews up the blades so I used 4 per hole. (I’m sure there are probably better blades for this but this is what I used.) Hold the saw firmly against the hood as it wants to jump going thru the 2 layers. We stayed a solid 1/8” inside the marks. It does chip the paint slightly in a few spots but that material will be sanded out later
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Next locate and mark the inner template. For this cut we used a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel. We used a couple pieces of step flashing between the 2 layers to make sure the blade did not come thru the upper layer. To clean up the inner hole use a sanding drum on the Dremel. The hardest part of the cut is along the outer fender lip where the 2 layers are connected. To make the 3 mounting slots we drilled a hole on each end of the slot and cut out the middle with the cutting wheel. Once the vent fit well in the hole and tabs head back to the top side
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On the top take a razor blade and trim back the tape to the outside of the marker lines (just a hair short of the final edge of the hole). Using the Dremel sanding drum take out the extra material up to the edge of the tape line. Check the vent in the hole and remove any additional material required for the vent to sit centered in the hole. Remove the original tape and use a new piece to create a straight line to your desired opening size. The opening will look squirrely we used a paint stick and sandpaper to straighten out the lines.
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Next locate the vent in the hole and place tape where the mounting bolts will go. Mark out the bolt slots, remove the vent and position the bolts and mark. Cut the tape away from the mounting location and sand the mounting location as well as the face of the bolt. Wipe the bolt and hood with an alcohol wipe. Leave the rest of the tape on the hood also tape up the top of the vent to prevent any excess epoxy from bonding the vent to the bolt. Place the vent into the hole, place the epoxy coated bolt into the correct location and use spring clamps to hold the vent and bolts into place.
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Last step have a cold beer and enjoy!
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Nice work dude! :cool:
Wow that is fantastic! Whatever you spent I'm sure it was worth it. The car just looks fabulous and from the pic's you did a pro job at it.
If you don't mind my asking, can you summarize your time / hours and the costs involved?
Mark
It took me about 35 hours for the following:
• Front splitter with supports
• Tow hook
• Canards
• Front fender louvers
• 6 hood vents
• Rear brake duct vents
• Rear wing
• Rear diffusers
Parts $28K
About 14 hours for the following:
• Install MCS coil overs
• Mount shock canisters
• Adjust ride height and corner balance
Parts $7,200 (includes powder coating coils)
Wow, awesome job and great write up. Looks like all that hard work paid off.
Totally worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk
Man that took a big pair to cut that hood - definitely a measure twice cut once moment!
Mark
Incredible work! You should have a great sense of satisfaction. Looks exceptional.
Amazing!
So no paint work needed after cutting & sanding? The edge is clean enough? I would have expected it to have a bunch of scuffs or chips - Would love to see a close up of the finished edge that was cut. Your pics look amazing
I run the same MCS shocks, they work great, especially for the money!
The cuts came out perfect. I wouldn’t look this precise if you painted it after the cut. It defiantly took more balls than brains to do itQuote:
Originally Posted by Thawk97
The exposed CF around the hole is black, the flash makes it look light colored
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That looks so good - I've been really tempted to do this to my SRT once I save my pennies - but SO intimidating to cut into that hood
I enjoyed this thread, The car came out amazing!! Excellent job !!
Drive it out to the Cape ,I’ll put the saw to it! The scariest part of it all is thinking that my wife might find the receipt for all the parts! Seriously it was not as hard as it sounds, there is quite a bit of sanding to take out the imperfections. A cutting wheel may work better than a jig saw. I just chose that tool because I’m a finish carpenter by trade and it seemed like a more familiar tool to me than a cutting wheel. Use plenty of tape and really take your time on the inside cut. That is the area that it can get ugly if you cut too deep. I created this post because there are no directions that come with the parts. Wayne is great at tech support but it should make it a little easier with these pictures. Contact me if you have any questions I would be happy to helpQuote:
Originally Posted by Thawk97
Dennis
Awesome work...congrats!
Did the TA have remote reservoirs like the GTS? If so, why didn't you just mount the canisters there? Doesn't mounting the canister inside the hot engine bay defeat the purpose of a remote reservoir?
As far as plug and play, I have a set of Tractive coil overs/controller coming in. Is it all adjustable from inside the car like OEM?
HahahahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by BJG32
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Nice work Dennis. Looks great! Did you ever consider using a router?
The TA does have remote damper reservoirs, with the front's mounted in the wheel wells.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawineer
It sounds like you have the full DSC Tractive damper/spring system with DA valve coming. Where the stock dual mode electronic dampers are adjustable from inside the car, that provides a choice of 2 fixed damper valvings. The Tractive dampers don't have any fixed valving at all, but instead the valving is constantly being adjusted by the DSC controller, and it does so according to the software program loaded into the controller. This provides infinitely variable damper valving as opposed to 2 damper valve curves. It can provide a cushy ride quality when cruising, be compliant over bumps, yet go full on race mode as required from the various sensor inputs.
I think DSC may have come up with a way to be able to load 2 different programs that could be switched inside the car, but you'd want to confirm that with DSC directly. I would question the need for dual programs though as the system does infinitely adapt to all driving conditions, on and off the track...however you do need to have a suitable program loaded for your particular, car, mods and preferences. I drove in DSC owner, Mike Levitas, modded '14 TA on track back to back with an expertly driven ACR Extreme and my own '14 TA and was incredibly impressed with the DSC/Tractive performance. I think you're going to like it.
I hope you'll consider joining and supporting the VOA, its sponsors, and your local VOA region's events. Thanks.
Awesome conversion and quality install. I'm doing the same to mine after collecting parts for the last two years. I'm wondering if I could bother you for some measurements on the front splitter template to cut the front fascia or if you would be interested in selling yours and maybe the rear diffuser drill template as well. Please let me know thanks. Paul
Hi PaulQuote:
Originally Posted by 583
We are building you a separate cut out template and extension support tubes as I type this.
Everything should be ready to ship the beginning of next week.
I'll email you
Thanks
Laurelle
583
Good luck with the build. Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions or run into problems. I took many pictures when I was doing the work
Dennis
This is such an awesome thread! So much info and so many pictures. I absolutely love it!!
Any plans on doing the ACRe Carbon Ceramic Brakes?
I’ll be sticking with my TA brakes, I use hawk racing pads and I’m very pleased with the braking for track use. My rotors usually don’t get any hotter than 240F after a 20 minute session. The only down side is there is a lot of brake dust from the pads