Intake heat shield installed - impressions

[Rapidrezults]

Just finished installing the DSE Gen V Intake Heat Shield. As expected, excellent instructions and top quality craftsmanship. Took it for a little cruise and I can honestly say the car felt so crisp and responsive with no drop off. It may be all in my head but it just feels faster. Normally the car feels crisp like this right after warmup and then a slight sense of sluggishness sets in as the temps build. No more! Monitoring IAT's they didn't get above 83 in 70 degree ambient temp at a stop light. Most of the time they were hovering around 73-76. For a minute I thought something was wrong with the sensor as it stayed at 75 at the stop light.

All in all - worth it.

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm163/rapidrezults/IMG_3102_zpsws8ch3om.jpg

[Zybane]

Hm, I may have to look into this. Today in the DC heat my black Viper IAT was 126 C at a stop light. Almost $500 shipped is a bit pricey for a simple heat shield though!

[FLATOUT]

Doug has a lot of time on that piece and I think I've had three different versions of it on my Gen V's at this point. Glad you like it!

[FLATOUT]

Hm, I may have to look into this. Today in the DC heat my black Viper IAT was 126 C at a stop light. Almost $500 shipped is a bit pricey for a simple heat shield though!

It's not simple, 500$ is about as cheap as it gets for Viper parts, and if I were Doug I would have charged a bit more. It helps with a major problem and looks OEM.

[v10tt]

I installed mine last night, very nice piece. My only observations is I was not able to use the supplied (2) bolts that attach the air box with the shield and the fan shroud. Bolts are too short. I had to reuse the OEM plastic ones as they are longer and can reach.

On the picture posted above the center small lip of the shield should go above the plastic that covers the fan shroud.
Also the clips for the bolts that attach on the fan shroud to the air box are supposed to be removed and reinstalled on the new heat shield. The heat shield tabs go under the fan shroud and the plastic OEM bolts go through the air box, shroud and shield.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Just finished installing the DSE Gen V Intake Heat Shield. As expected, excellent instructions and top quality craftsmanship. Took it for a little cruise and I can honestly say the car felt so crisp and responsive with no drop off. It may be all in my head but it just feels faster. Normally the car feels crisp like this right after warmup and then a slight sense of sluggishness sets in as the temps build. No more! Monitoring IAT's they didn't get above 83 in 70 degree ambient temp at a stop light. Most of the time they were hovering around 73-76. For a minute I thought something was wrong with the sensor as it stayed at 75 at the stop light.

All in all - worth it.



Thanks for your feedback. See below v10tt's comments on the install (sorry I missed your email).


I installed mine last night, very nice piece. My only observations is I was not able to use the supplied (2) bolts that attach the air box with the shield and the fan shroud. Bolts are too short. I had to reuse the OEM plastic ones as they are longer and can reach.

On the picture posted above the center small lip of the shield should go above the plastic that covers the fan shroud.
Also the clips for the bolts that attach on the fan shroud to the air box are supposed to be removed and reinstalled on the new heat shield. The heat shield tabs go under the fan shroud and the plastic OEM bolts go through the air box, shroud and shield.

Yes, the supplied thumbscrews are too short due to the spacers on the Gen V (they are more than long enough for the Gen IV), I'm looking into a solution for Gen V owners. In the meantime the OEM screws can be used. I'm wondering if even a small amount of foam could be used on the radiator to space the shield up and allow the screws to thread into the nuts.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Hm, I may have to look into this. Today in the DC heat my black Viper IAT was 126 C at a stop light. Almost $500 shipped is a bit pricey for a simple heat shield though!

I agree, $500 would be expensive for a simple shield, but the design is anything but simple. There isn’t a straightforward part of the shield design as it has to surround the airbox and tubes yet not interfere with any of the other parts of the car (hood, radiator, crossbrace, tubes, airbox, hoses, etc.). You may notice several pockets, cutouts, bends and angles that are required to do so while achieving maximum shielding capability. The shield bolts on without modification to the car. Here are some additional facts regarding this product:

- Thousands of dollars spent in prototyping materials and costs (not including engineering / design time and access to expensive tools such as a laser scanner and FLIR camera)
- The two piece construction requires complex bends and welds and must be fabricated by experts.
- The design is compatible with both the Gen IV and V, eliminating the need for two designs and therefore reducing customer cost.
- The ceramic coating is very high quality, yet relatively cost effective and black in color. For the group buy the ceramic coater underestimated the time and material costs to sandblast and coat each shield. We will be having discussions regarding the future price (which has not yet been accounted for in the $425 price).
- Quantity is everything, which is why the group buy allowed the sale price to be cheaper. One shield could not be fabricated for $425 (not to mention ceramic coated). If I only get 10 made at a time the sale price would be $600. I’m investing thousands for a larger quantity in hopes I’ll sell them to keep the price lower.
- Since these are large parts, storage is an issue. Each kit can be safely stored in a 18” x 14” x 12” box, imagine the volume it takes to store 10, 20, or more of these.
- Since these are large parts shipping is expensive, especially if shipped to the west coast or outside of the US.

If $425 is too expensive for the market (it may be, not sure), then those that now own them certainly will own a limited edition product.

[Rapidrezults]

I installed mine last night, very nice piece. My only observations is I was not able to use the supplied (2) bolts that attach the air box with the shield and the fan shroud. Bolts are too short. I had to reuse the OEM plastic ones as they are longer and can reach.

On the picture posted above the center small lip of the shield should go above the plastic that covers the fan shroud.
Also the clips for the bolts that attach on the fan shroud to the air box are supposed to be removed and reinstalled on the new heat shield. The heat shield tabs go under the fan shroud and the plastic OEM bolts go through the air box, shroud and shield.

I ended up using the original supplied plastic bolts as well. I just figured the others were for a Gen IV when I looked at the length.

[Rapidrezults]

One thing to note, while it does seem a bit pricey, I was very surprised at the level of detail and engineering that went into this piece. It may look simple in the pictures but I can tell you up close there is quite a bit that went into it.

[Unorthodox]

Hm, I may have to look into this. Today in the DC heat my black Viper IAT was 126 C at a stop light. Almost $500 shipped is a bit pricey for a simple heat shield though!

I've purchased several of Doug's items, including this heat shield, and I'm always impressed with his products. Initially, I thought the battery cover was priced on the high side; however, you do get what you pay for. If you want top quality and excellent customer service, you can't beat his stuff. Price is a moot point, for me, on his products now.

Michael

[darbgnik]

I agree, $500 would be expensive for a simple shield, but the design is anything but simple. There isn’t a straightforward part of the shield design as it has to surround the airbox and tubes yet not interfere with any of the other parts of the car (hood, radiator, crossbrace, tubes, airbox, hoses, etc.). You may notice several pockets, cutouts, bends and angles that are required to do so while achieving maximum shielding capability. The shield bolts on without modification to the car. Here are some additional facts regarding this product:

- Thousands of dollars spent in prototyping materials and costs (not including engineering / design time and access to expensive tools such as a laser scanner and FLIR camera)
- The two piece construction requires complex bends and welds and must be fabricated by experts.
- The design is compatible with both the Gen IV and V, eliminating the need for two designs and therefore reducing customer cost.
- The ceramic coating is very high quality, yet relatively cost effective and black in color. For the group buy the ceramic coater underestimated the time and material costs to sandblast and coat each shield. We will be having discussions regarding the future price (which has not yet been accounted for in the $425 price).
- Quantity is everything, which is why the group buy allowed the sale price to be cheaper. One shield could not be fabricated for $425 (not to mention ceramic coated). If I only get 10 made at a time the sale price would be $600. I’m investing thousands for a larger quantity in hopes I’ll sell them to keep the price lower.
- Since these are large parts, storage is an issue. Each kit can be safely stored in a 18” x 14” x 12” box, imagine the volume it takes to store 10, 20, or more of these.
- Since these are large parts shipping is expensive, especially if shipped to the west coast or outside of the US.

If $425 is too expensive for the market (it may be, not sure), then those that now own them certainly will own a limited edition product.

Yup, economy of scale applies to everything, and it's not like you're stamping them out, and pushing them out the door....... I'm not 100% sure I need this mod, but it isn't the price that's the issue. Thanks for supporting the community.

[ViperPete]

All I know is that i'll buy one when I can!

Living in FL the temps are usually north of 80 most of the year so a mod like this will be very useful.

[CarolinaViper]

The price is very reasonable for the limited number that will be sold. Has anyone tested it yet in temperatures 85 degrees and above yet. If so please, post the results both while driving, but more important why idling, like in the staging lanes at a drag strip.

Thx

Jeff

[Zybane]

I agree, $500 would be expensive for a simple shield, but the design is anything but simple. There isn’t a straightforward part of the shield design as it has to surround the airbox and tubes yet not interfere with any of the other parts of the car (hood, radiator, crossbrace, tubes, airbox, hoses, etc.). You may notice several pockets, cutouts, bends and angles that are required to do so while achieving maximum shielding capability. The shield bolts on without modification to the car. Here are some additional facts regarding this product:

- Thousands of dollars spent in prototyping materials and costs (not including engineering / design time and access to expensive tools such as a laser scanner and FLIR camera)
- The two piece construction requires complex bends and welds and must be fabricated by experts.
- The design is compatible with both the Gen IV and V, eliminating the need for two designs and therefore reducing customer cost.
- The ceramic coating is very high quality, yet relatively cost effective and black in color. For the group buy the ceramic coater underestimated the time and material costs to sandblast and coat each shield. We will be having discussions regarding the future price (which has not yet been accounted for in the $425 price).
- Quantity is everything, which is why the group buy allowed the sale price to be cheaper. One shield could not be fabricated for $425 (not to mention ceramic coated). If I only get 10 made at a time the sale price would be $600. I’m investing thousands for a larger quantity in hopes I’ll sell them to keep the price lower.
- Since these are large parts, storage is an issue. Each kit can be safely stored in a 18” x 14” x 12” box, imagine the volume it takes to store 10, 20, or more of these.
- Since these are large parts shipping is expensive, especially if shipped to the west coast or outside of the US.

If $425 is too expensive for the market (it may be, not sure), then those that now own them certainly will own a limited edition product.

Oh don't get me wrong I'm not knocking the product it looks really well designed. Maybe more or less mad that I missed the group buy lol. I guess I never thought to check all of the sub-forums here.

It is amazing how hot these cars engine bays get. I thought my GTR with it's twin turbo's got hot but this is right up there. The heat rising from the six vents on the SRT hood is quite startling. My own high IAT readings and your IR imaging swayed me. Order placed.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

The price is very reasonable for the limited number that will be sold. Has anyone tested it yet in temperatures 85 degrees and above yet. If so please, post the results both while driving, but more important why idling, like in the staging lanes at a drag strip.

Thx

Jeff

The product should excel at the staging lanes at a drag strip. That is where it will be most effective. I hope to collect some additional data soon but also expect some of my customers will collect their own and begin to post shortly.



Oh don't get me wrong I'm not knocking the product it looks really well designed. Maybe more or less mad that I missed the group buy lol. I guess I never thought to check all of the sub-forums here.

It is amazing how hot these cars engine bays get. I thought my GTR with it's twin turbo's got hot but this is right up there. The heat rising from the six vents on the SRT hood is quite startling. My own high IAT readings and your IR imaging swayed me. Order placed.

Thanks for your order, sorry about missing the group buy but I had to draw the line somewhere!

[SSGNRDZ_28]

It's not simple, 500$ is about as cheap as it gets for Viper parts, and if I were Doug I would have charged a bit more. It helps with a major problem and looks OEM.


One thing to note, while it does seem a bit pricey, I was very surprised at the level of detail and engineering that went into this piece. It may look simple in the pictures but I can tell you up close there is quite a bit that went into it.


I've purchased several of Doug's items, including this heat shield, and I'm always impressed with his products. Initially, I thought the battery cover was priced on the high side; however, you do get what you pay for. If you want top quality and excellent customer service, you can't beat his stuff. Price is a moot point, for me, on his products now.

Michael

Thank you all for your kind words!

[esm_viper]

Is this available to purchase on your website?

http://dougshelbyengineering.com/Viper.html

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Is this available to purchase on your website?

http://dougshelbyengineering.com/Viper.html

Yes there are links on the left side of the page for US and Canada shipping.

[esm_viper]

Awesome! Just ordered one, it's always hot in South Texas.

[ViperPete]

Thanks for being an innovator.

Now, make some better exhaust heat shields so my wife doesn't complain about the heat!!!!!!

[Rapidrezults]

Thanks for being an innovator.

Now, make some better exhaust heat shields so my wife doesn't complain about the heat!!!!!!

Add me to this list! I'm tired of the yellowing on my white paint!

[Zybane]

Thanks for being an innovator.

Now, make some better exhaust heat shields so my wife doesn't complain about the heat!!!!!!

And a oil catch can solution for the GENV. ;)


Thanks for being an innovator.

Now, make some better exhaust heat shields so my wife doesn't complain about the heat!!!!!!

I wonder if there is enough room in the sills to do this on a GEN V:

https://theviperstore.com/Viper_Side_Sill_Insulation_Directions.htm

[ViperPete]

And...proper...beautiful Valve covers! Not those plastic covers for the valve covers! But beautiful aluminum valve covers!

[RPM9000]

I got mine yesterday and will install it tonight. It looks like a quality piece.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Gen V catch can - going to measure for it soon, many have been asking for a solution. All other things mentioned will be evaluated. Thanks for the ideas.

[LmeaViper]

Just finished installing the DSE Gen V Intake Heat Shield. As expected, excellent instructions and top quality craftsmanship. Took it for a little cruise and I can honestly say the car felt so crisp and responsive with no drop off. It may be all in my head but it just feels faster. Normally the car feels crisp like this right after warmup and then a slight sense of sluggishness sets in as the temps build. No more! Monitoring IAT's they didn't get above 83 in 70 degree ambient temp at a stop light. Most of the time they were hovering around 73-76. For a minute I thought something was wrong with the sensor as it stayed at 75 at the stop light.

All in all - worth it.

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm163/rapidrezults/IMG_3102_zpsws8ch3om.jpg

Not sure if it is my computer, however the pic appears too dark for me to see any details on the intake. Was hoping to see it installed as my shield is reportedly on-route.

[Rapidrezults]

More pics...

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm163/rapidrezults/5200AD4E-483E-4189-B8C3-AF160968F760_zpslizvxk8j.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm163/rapidrezults/2740C942-AC11-4361-8185-1A013ADE95D6_zpsmzzqw5io.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm163/rapidrezults/6C8EFB06-FCF5-4BB4-B1AB-56022FBEDA4C_zpssr9axbi6.jpg

[cashcorn]

Just ordered. Would adding insulation between the shield & air box provide an even lower temp?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Just ordered. Would adding insulation between the shield & air box provide an even lower temp?

Thank you. Try it out and let us know, it would be an interesting experiment. The ceramic coating is double sided and fairly good at keeping the heat away. I suspect some/most of the remaining heat comes from soak over the top of the airbox / shield.

[Y'orange_UAE]

I just received email from Doug regarding the Gen V DSE-VP-HS-001 heat shield, stating that (If you are a Gen V (2013+) owner, you will notice the anodized aluminum “DSE” thumb screws will be too short to use for your installation. If you are interested in the exchange, please reply to this email as soon as possible. When the screws are ready I will ship them to you at no cost and include a return label for the shorter screws to be returned in the same package)

But I'm happy to use the OEM screws while they work.

Thanks Doug for your quick respond regarding the screws issue for Gen V

[Rapidrezults]

Honestly you can't even see the OEM screws with the way the Gen V hood opens. It would take a rubber neck act to even get a glimpse of them. As far as strength and rigidity goes, that's a different concern but the stockers seem to tighten down pretty good.

[genVer]

Just got mine installed this evening. I had some difficulty reinstalling the center rubber grommet so I sent Doug an email to ask if he had any advice. I expected I'd get a response sometime tomorrow but just minutes after sending the message he replied with some tips! It turned out that I did not have the shield flush with the bracket; once I worked it all the way down it was much easier to install the grommet.

I posted this for two reasons; to give others a heads up about making sure the shield is flush before installing the grommet and to commend DSE on OUTSTANDING customer service.

[Rapidrezults]

Just got mine installed this evening. I had some difficulty reinstalling the center rubber grommet so I sent Doug an email to ask if he had any advice. I expected I'd get a response sometime tomorrow but just minutes after sending the message he replied with some tips! It turned out that I did not have the shield flush with the bracket; once I worked it all the way down it was much easier to install the grommet.

I posted this for two reasons; to give others a heads up about making sure the shield is flush before installing the grommet and to commend DSE on OUTSTANDING customer service.

I had difficulties and then got a bright idea and used some gasket lube on the small end and it went right in. Assuming everything is flush of course.

[ViperPete]

Nice

[Crotalidae]

Can't wait to get mine installed...:)

[cashcorn]

^^^ I'm right behind you, mines in the mail. lol

[1.8t]

Just put mine on. Took maybe 30min while monkey around a little bit, super easy install. My IAT's are now averaging 5deg above ambient while moving at damn near any speed. Prior to the shield they would average between 10-14deg above ambient depending on speed. This thing definitely works.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

If anyone who is considering this shield wants to spend their July with lower IATs please PM me, I have about 5 of these left. Have ordered more but they won't be ready until ~ August. Overwhelming response! Thank you!

This is definately a cheap and easy way to maximize power during the hot months at any ambient temperature. It takes minutes for anyone to install. I'm looking to possibly try to justify the IAT / power relationship on a dyno back to back by simply heating the air into the intake (unless someone beats me to it). This mod can be considered a bolt on power adder that anyone can install, could be a huge bang for the buck depending on how the car loses power with increased IAT.

[FLATOUT]

Installing my final version tonight and boxing up the earlier versions and getting them back to Doug. These really turned out great.



If anyone who is considering this shield wants to spend their July with lower IATs please PM me, I have about 5 of these left. Have ordered more but they won't be ready until ~ August. Overwhelming response! Thank you!

This is definately a cheap and easy way to maximize power during the hot months at any ambient temperature. It takes minutes for anyone to install. I'm looking to possibly try to justify the IAT / power relationship on a dyno back to back by simply heating the air into the intake (unless someone beats me to it). This mod can be considered a bolt on power adder that anyone can install, could be a huge bang for the buck depending on how the car loses power with increased IAT.

[ViperGeorge]

I have two to install. This weekend is my plan.

[KB Viper]

just installed mine, it's a great piece. i'll post results after a weekend of driving in the SoCal heat.

[XSnake]

Installing my final version tonight and boxing up the earlier versions and getting them back to Doug. These really turned out great.

Send me the front knobs, I'll send doug my production ones back

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Everyone make sure you have your rubber drain / valve piece installed on the bottom of your airbox. Just did some testing and it was 4 degrees hotter running and 10 degrees hotter at heat soak without that plug.

[ViperTony]

Everyone make sure you have your rubber drain / valve piece installed on the bottom of your airbox. Just did some testing and it was 4 degrees hotter running and 10 degrees hotter at heat soak without that plug.

Question: Is there supposed to be a hole a the bottom of the shield for the drain/rubber drain piece to fit through? I ask because I think the plastic drain tube on the bottom of my air box is hitting the shield causing the airbox to sit high and not allowing my hood to close. I was about to cut off the plastic pee-pee thing on the bottom of my airbox. :) There's no hole in my shield for the drain valve but can drill one easily. Just wondering. Thanks.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

There should be more than enough clearance (especially on a GenV because the airbox is spaced up about 0.5".) If the hood isn't closing there's another issue.

Are the front tabs of the shield on top of the radiator and spacer bit? (Note the picture on this thread actually shows incorrect installation because the shield tabs are sandwiched between the radiator flange and spacer)

Is the shield flush on the center cross brace mount where the rubber grommet is?

Should be no need for modifications of car or shield.

Thanks
Doug


Question: Is there supposed to be a hole a the bottom of the shield for the drain/rubber drain piece to fit through? I ask because I think the plastic drain tube on the bottom of my air box is hitting the shield causing the airbox to sit high and not allowing my hood to close. I was about to cut off the plastic pee-pee thing on the bottom of my airbox. :) There's no hole in my shield for the drain valve but can drill one easily. Just wondering. Thanks.

[ViperTony]

There should be more than enough clearance (especially on a GenV because the airbox is spaced up about 0.5".) If the hood isn't closing there's another issue.

Are the front tabs of the shield on top of the radiator and spacer bit?

Is the shield flush on the center cross brace mount where the rubber grommet is?

Should be no need for modifications of car or shield.

Thanks
Doug

Yes, tabs are on top of radiator and spacer. Shield is flush on the cross brace, rubber grommet fits in nicely. I'll spend a little more time on it today. I'll figure it out. Very nice work and well done on this BTW!!!

[ViperTony]

(after actually reading the directions :o) I figured it out. I'm good. Took less than 30 minutes. :D

[ViperPete]

I definitely want one. Wont be able to buy one for a few months though. Saving up for Suntek.

[KB Viper]

Everyone make sure you have your rubber drain / valve piece installed on the bottom of your airbox. Just did some testing and it was 4 degrees hotter running and 10 degrees hotter at heat soak without that plug.

What plug? Will you please post a picture.

[ViperTony]

What plug? Will you please post a picture.

My airbox didn't have a drain plug. I borrowed one off of my GenII airbox, fits perfectly.

[cashcorn]

I filled about a 1/2" of my drain with 500 degree permatex. Can always pull it out if need be(after it dry's). also filled the drain hole in the shield.

[Lightsaber]

It's surprising what a simple intake shield can do, isn't it?? OP I'm so glad you enjoy it and this should be one of the few very great starting mods.;)

[ViperTony]

I filled about a 1/2" of my drain with 500 degree permatex. Can always pull it out if need be(after it dry's). also filled the drain hole in the shield.

What drain hole in the shield?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Here is the drain tube being discussed. I wonder if this is something they eliminated for 2014+? It seems like at least a few people did not have one installed on their cars. It can be found online for less than $10.

05038304AA TUBE. Drain



11526

[Steve M]

Mine actually has a small tear in it...thanks for the part number!

- - - Updated - - -


What drain hole in the shield?

Drain holes are in the corners at the bottom of the main part of the shield.

[ViperGeorge]

I do not remember seeing that drain thingy on the bottom of my air cleaner. Since I've never had the boxes out before would not have known I was missing it without seeing the picture above.

One tip for installation. I had real trouble getting those U-shaped nuts off the radiator bracket. But if you use a small metal putty knife and slide it under the top they come right off.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Here are some test results from this weekend:

Ambient temp 66 degrees F

With shield
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 80 degrees F or 14 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 109 or 43 over

With Shield, No Drain Plug
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 84 degrees F or 18 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 118 degrees F or 52 degrees F over

No Shield
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 87 degrees F or 21 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 124 degrees F or 58 degrees F over

2008 Coupe. Removed the hood grilles. These were back to back runs on the same road, wind direction, speed, etc.

Throttle and speed play a big part in the IAT. For example, if I went from just cruising at 3k RPM ~15% throttle to a bit more the IAT was only 9 over ambient. I did notice slightly different temps depending on direction due to wind.

Notes:

- The drain plug matters for cooler IAT.

- In this test scenario no timing is being pulled with the shield installed but timing is being pulled without the shield while running.

- When the radiator fans kick on IAT will skyrocket with or without the shield, but the shield keeps temps at a lower level.

- When idling without moving hot air is pulled from in front of the radiator on a 2008 hood. Air will rise from the radiators, into the holes of the hood which feed the intake. You can feel hot air being fed instead of pulling all of the cool air from the outside as might be expected. (an Arrow closeout panel or similar would eliminate this negative side effect at idle, but I suspect this duct work probably has a big “ram” effect of cool air while driving). This needs further investigation!

Thanks
Doug

[SADVIPER]

Sounds intresting, considering this for my 2013.
thx for sharing!

[ViperGeorge]

Here are some test results from this weekend:

Ambient temp 66 degrees F

With shield
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 80 degrees F or 14 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 109 or 43 over

With Shield, No Drain Plug
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 84 degrees F or 18 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 118 degrees F or 52 degrees F over

No Shield
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 87 degrees F or 21 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 124 degrees F or 58 degrees F over

2008 Coupe. Removed the hood grilles. These were back to back runs on the same road, wind direction, speed, etc.

Throttle and speed play a big part in the IAT. For example, if I went from just cruising at 3k RPM ~15% throttle to a bit more the IAT was only 9 over ambient. I did notice slightly different temps depending on direction due to wind.

Notes:

- The drain plug matters for cooler IAT.

- In this test scenario no timing is being pulled with the shield installed but timing is being pulled without the shield while running.

- When the radiator fans kick on IAT will skyrocket with or without the shield, but the shield keeps temps at a lower level.

- When idling without moving hot air is pulled from in front of the radiator on a 2008 hood. Air will rise from the radiators, into the holes of the hood which feed the intake. You can feel hot air being fed instead of pulling all of the cool air from the outside as might be expected. (an Arrow closeout panel or similar would eliminate this negative side effect at idle, but I suspect this duct work probably has a big “ram” effect of cool air while driving). This needs further investigation!

Thanks
Doug

Doug, I wonder if you could run a test. Drape some insulation over the top of the airbox, secure it to the shield and run your runs. I'm wondering if insulation on the top of the airbox might further reduce IATs. What do you think?

[LmeaViper]

Doug, I wonder if you could run a test. Drape some insulation over the top of the airbox, secure it to the shield and run your runs. I'm wondering if insulation on the top of the airbox might further reduce IATs. What do you think?

I was thinking the same thing on the weekend when I contemplating installing my heat shield. I took some temps with my heat probe and observed that the box and intake tubes were very warm.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Doug, I wonder if you could run a test. Drape some insulation over the top of the airbox, secure it to the shield and run your runs. I'm wondering if insulation on the top of the airbox might further reduce IATs. What do you think?



I was thinking the same thing on the weekend when I contemplating installing my heat shield. I took some temps with my heat probe and observed that the box and intake tubes were very warm.

I have some ideas for extra insulation, I will report when I'm able to test them.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I just ordered one today. Are you on track for your Aug. 10th shipping date.

Thank you for the order, and yes they are still on track for Aug 10.

Make sure you get the drain tube mentioned above.

Thanks
Doug

[Zybane]

Do I need the drain tube on a 2015? Can I just easily add it later or is it better to do it (access) at the time of shield installation?

[Steve M]

Easy to add later...the airbox is very easy to install/uninstall.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Do I need the drain tube on a 2015? Can I just easily add it later or is it better to do it (access) at the time of shield installation?

You don't need one but it helps IAT. To install you could just undo the thumb screws and lift the airbox, it would take 2 minutes so it isn't a big deal.

[Voice of Reason]

Quick real world driving test from this evening. Going to a club meeting a friend and I monitored our IATs, his car being stock and mine having the heat shield and a few other things in my signature. Outside temps ranged from 75 down to 57 and at highway speeds my IAT was consistently 8+ over ambient. My friends unshielded car was consistently +9 over ME, so +17 over ambient. These results are without the Gen IV plug so I'm ordering that tomorrow to see how it does. IMO this is a significant difference and worth it. Also we saw no difference in our oil or water temps.

One note though - I have smooth tubes and I think because they are stiffer than the stock accordian tubes when the engine is under load it's causing the air box to torque over a little and the upper heat shield piece to vibrate against the tubular frame piece below it. During a brief stop I noticed the shield resting firmly against that tube below but lifting it slightly I could see that it had signs of vibration and paint wearing off. I'm going to adjust the shield and/or isolate it from the tubular frame with some rubber and retest. Just a small FYI to others in case you hear a noise and you have smooth tubes.

[Jiaim]

Would gold foil under the shield make it even better ? That'd be a simple & stealth upgrade.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Quick real world driving test from this evening. Going to a club meeting a friend and I monitored our IATs, his car being stock and mine having the heat shield and a few other things in my signature. Outside temps ranged from 75 down to 57 and at highway speeds my IAT was consistently 8+ over ambient. My friends unshielded car was consistently +9 over ME, so +17 over ambient. These results are without the Gen IV plug so I'm ordering that tomorrow to see how it does. IMO this is a significant difference and worth it. Also we saw no difference in our oil or water temps.

One note though - I have smooth tubes and I think because they are stiffer than the stock accordian tubes when the engine is under load it's causing the air box to torque over a little and the upper heat shield piece to vibrate against the tubular frame piece below it. During a brief stop I noticed the shield resting firmly against that tube below but lifting it slightly I could see that it had signs of vibration and paint wearing off. I'm going to adjust the shield and/or isolate it from the tubular frame with some rubber and retest. Just a small FYI to others in case you hear a noise and you have smooth tubes.

Those are some great results, thanks for the testing. In your example your car was not pulling timing but your friends car would have been assuming 75 ambient.

Some foam to protect the finish would not be a bad thing. Since every car is slightly different I would recommend removing the shield after some miles to inspect for marks where the shield is contacting the car. Adding foam in those places would prevent the contact from doing any damage to the finish. See below.



Would gold foil under the shield make it even better ? That'd be a simple & stealth upgrade.

I've ordered some 1/8" Dynaliner which is supposed to provide a level of thermal insulation but is also closed cell and dark gray in color. It is fairly cheap on eBay, ~$40 for a roll. I could see adding this on either side of the shield to further improve the IAT but also to act as a cushion for the scenario stated above.

[timberwolf]

Here's what i did. Upon first cruise I saw a immediate drop in iats over no shield. I also added some heat shielding on the bottom only.. Left the sides clean for now11620
I installed this not only for thermal properties but to avoid vibrations and rattling/sawing at various parts underneath the shield

[IndyRon]

Here's what i did. Upon first cruise I saw a immediate drop in iats over no shield. I also added some head shielding on the bottom only.. Left the sides clean for now11620
I installed this not only for thermal properties but to avoid vibrations and rattling/sawing at various parts underneath the shield

I like that and can only help. What shielding did you use? Thickness?

[timberwolf]

I like that and can only help. What shielding did you use? Thickness?

Got it here: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/the-14100?seid=srese1&gclid=CIX4qs2qwMYCFdUUHwodvXsBBA

[RAY W]

The pictures of the drain plug show that it is installed over a nipple or fitting in the bottom of the box. I do not have any fitting on my air box, only an open hole. Has anyone tried to use the Gen IV plug in the 2014-15 air box ? Will it need to be glued in ?

[Voice of Reason]

I haven't ordered mine yet but it looks like it will fit.

In the interim I've put a thin piece of plastic over the extended drain nipple and secured it with a rubber band. Its a little ghetto but it works and isn't visible, so now only me and my closest internet friends know it's there.

[RAY W]

I haven't ordered mine yet but it looks like it will fit.

In the interim I've put a thin piece of plastic over the extended drain nipple and secured it with a rubber band. Its a little ghetto but it works and isn't visible, so now only me and my closest internet friends know it's there.

There isn't a nipple on the 2014-15 air box. Just about a 1/2"-3/4" diameter hole. Part #05038304AA is good for 2008-2013.

[Voice of Reason]

There isn't a nipple on the 2014-15 air box. Just about a 1/2"-3/4" diameter hole. Part #05038304AA is good for 2008-2013.

Strange, my 13 SRT and 14 TA both have it. Can you post a pic of the bottom of yours? It sounds like it was a mid year 14 change maybe?

[ViperTony]

My '13 has the nipple but no drain tube attached. I ended up using a drain tube from my GenII air box. Fits nicely.

[RAY W]

Strange, my 13 SRT and 14 TA both have it. Can you post a pic of the bottom of yours? It sounds like it was a mid year 14 change maybe?

Can't really take a picture unless it is off the car. I ordered the part anyway to see if I can silicone it in. A friends 2015 doesn't have the nipple either. Probably used up the left overs on the early 14's.

[RAY W]

Well now I am at a total loss. Another friend sent me a picture of his 2015 with the nipple. Can't tell from the picture but he says it is molded in, not glued. So I guess I'll be creating something for my car.

[LmeaViper]

There isn't a nipple on the 2014-15 air box. Just about a 1/2"-3/4" diameter hole. Part #05038304AA is good for 2008-2013.

My 2013 GTS had an opening in the bottom of the tube...no nipple. However, I am not sure a nipple would fit in my shield?

[timberwolf]

Here is the drain tube being discussed. I wonder if this is something they eliminated for 2014+? It seems like at least a few people did not have one installed on their cars. It can be found online for less than $10.

05038304AA TUBE. Drain



11526

Have you considered using an automotive rubber seal on the edge of the shield to form a tighter seal with the hood to further prevent hot air induction? I was thinking of testing that out

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Have you considered using an automotive rubber seal on the edge of the shield to form a tighter seal with the hood to further prevent hot air induction? I was thinking of testing that out

The shield does not seal against the hood as it must accommodate several hoods. I'm not certain if that would help or hurt at the end of the day but worth testing.

[bogdan]

Installed my shield last night. Awesome product!!!

The drain plugs at the bottom of the airbox seem to be random. My 2013 did not have one.

[Steve M]

Installed my shield last night. Awesome product!!!

The drain plugs at the bottom of the airbox seem to be random. My 2013 did not have one.

Man that is odd...wonder why that is?

[bogdan]

Man that is odd...wonder why that is?

Maybe it's one of those things on the production line that two people are supposed to take care of... and one person thinks the other installed it. :smilielol:

[Steve M]

I'll have to look at mine more closely, but the impression I got after a quick glance was that this piece is molded in to the lower section. I could see someone maybe leaving off the rubber boot thingie, but missing entirely would suggest an issue with the molding process. I could be mistaken though...maybe it is a separate piece. I'll have to take another look at the one on my Gen 4.

[ViperGeorge]

I've reached out to SRT for an explanation. I'll let you know if they respond.

[ViperTony]

I'll have to look at mine more closely, but the impression I got after a quick glance was that this piece is molded in to the lower section. I could see someone maybe leaving off the rubber boot thingie, but missing entirely would suggest an issue with the molding process. I could be mistaken though...maybe it is a separate piece. I'll have to take another look at the one on my Gen 4.

If there's no hole in the airbox for water to escape then my concern would be that water accumulates and leads to a hydrolock condition.

[ViperGeorge]

The nipple thing is supposed to be on the bottom of the air box. It is intended to keep water from entering the box from below. Side benefit it also keeps some hot air from entering the box. I should have the parts today and plan on trying to install them this weekend.

[AM.MSCL]

Great product and just some items I observed during my installation of the heat shield last night on my 2014 Gen V GTS.
I do not have red locking tabs for the wire connectors to the MAF sensors that the directions mention.
1 of the factory thumb screws did not want to easily go back in but finally did get it to thread.
Instructions mention using the rub-guard for Gen IVs; I used it because I have 2 tubes with the heat shield sitting on top of them. 1 is Coolant line and the other I believe is vacuum that are under the Throttle Body inlet tubes.

For the factory air box drain that everyone is discussing; I do have the drain molded into the air box but I do not have the little plastic thing like the picture shows (earlier posted in the thread).

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I was able to install the 1/8" Dynaliner yesterday. Although there are many adhesive back insulation products out there I chose Dynaliner for a few reasons:

- closed cell (no water absorption)
- designed for automotive environment (resists oil, chemicals, durable)
- 1/8" thickness (allows installation on most surfaces of the shield without interfering with fit)
- dark gray color (blends in nicely with the shield color)
- claims to have the highest heat blocking properties of any single layer synthetic foam

Installation was simple, and all in it took about an hour to cut everything out, test fit, adhere, and install on the car. I simply laid the shield over the foam and did some tracing to get a rough shape, and refined the shape before adhering.

I ended up doing the entire inside of the main shield, entire bottom of the main shield and bottom of the tube shield. I wanted to keep the black appearance on the most visible surfaces. In hind sight I should have installed the foam on the inside of the tube shield but did not do so at the time. I used almost the entire 32" x 54" sheet (purchased on eBay for $43).

The test results were encouraging, however, I didn't have time do remove the shield and do a back-to-back:

Ambient Temp: 81 degrees F
DSE Heat Shield with Dynaliner foam installed
3k RPM constant runs: IAT = ~91 degrees F or 10 degrees over ambient
3 minute heat soak: IAT = ~107F or 26 degrees over ambient


Compared to my previous run (66 ambient) this improved the delta running IAT by 4 degrees and soak IAT by 17 degrees

Not bad for $43 and an hour of time. The results could possibly be improved by adding a second layer along the outside bottom of the shield, along the outside of the sides, and along the inside of the tube shield. Note, the first run was even better (6 and 23 degrees over ambient) but I think things got thoroughly heat soaked after the first cycle of running / soaking. Also, the fans were definitely on when idling but the temps weren't climbing at a rate previously seen.

This also has the added bonus of cushioning the contact points between the shield and the car.


1178811789117901179111792

[AM.MSCL]

Saturday night drove about 1 hour to meet friends for dinner; this was the 1st real drive with the heat shield installed.
Went from Austin, TX towards San Antonio, TX and got time to watch the IAT along with some other data; I have no idea of number without the heat shield installed.
All temperatures are what the Viper stated.
Outside temp 90 degrees there is high humidity this time of year in the Texas Hill Country but I have no recorded #.
Driving 80-85 MPH in 6th gear (no cruise control)
Oil Temp was 196 degrees
Coolant Temp was 189 degrees
IAT was 98 with flat road and no fluctuation in throttle
IAT was 100 with a incline and a little increase in throttle
IAT would drop to 96 upon acceleration to get back to 80 after having to slow down to 65-70 when coming up on traffic.
IAT went to 106 when sitting at a stop light but once moving again dropped quickly to 98.

Just thought some folks might like to know this info.
Ray

[ViperTony]

I finally had an opportunity to see what the shield is doing for me since having it installed. I attended an auto cross this past weekend. 90 degrees, humid and no shade. Though I could not really check the IATs while on the auto-cross (gotta watch where I'm going ;)) I checked them before, after and at idle. Normally, while lined up at the grid or lined up to get on the auto course in hot temps, my IAT temps would climb to 147 degrees. This weekend I saw no higher than 125 degrees while idling. Coming off of the track my IATs were in the 107-109 range which is a vast improvement of about 125-129 pre-shield. On the drive home on the highway my IATs were in the 90's which is a noticeable improvement for me. Airflow is key but this shield definitely helps.

[ACRucrazy]

I have used dynaliner in the past for other projects. I could see it helping here.
Hoodliner may not be a bad idea on the bottom of the heat shield. I still have a roll of that around.

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/ACRucrazy/2004%20Ram/audio85.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/ACRucrazy/2004%20Ram/audio87.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/ACRucrazy/2004%20Ram/audio94.jpg

[ViperGeorge]

I received the nipples for my two cars on Friday. Put them on this weekend. The nipple slides over the molded drain hole in the air box. The nipples have a molded in spring clamp which you can use hog ring pliers on to secure it to the outlet of the airbox. No need for glue or silicone. Also no need for any drain hose of any kind, the nipple ends in a flat section that has a slit to let water out. They fit with the shield with no problem. Nipples were $6.50 (mopardealerparts.com). They are supposed to come with the car to prevent water from being sucked into the 3/4" hole at the bottom of the air box.

[ViperGeorge]

I was able to install the 1/8" Dynaliner yesterday. Although there are many adhesive back insulation products out there I chose Dynaliner for a few reasons:

- closed cell (no water absorption)
- designed for automotive environment (resists oil, chemicals, durable)
- 1/8" thickness (allows installation on most surfaces of the shield without interfering with fit)
- dark gray color (blends in nicely with the shield color)
- claims to have the highest heat blocking properties of any single layer synthetic foam

Installation was simple, and all in it took about an hour to cut everything out, test fit, adhere, and install on the car. I simply laid the shield over the foam and did some tracing to get a rough shape, and refined the shape before adhering.

I ended up doing the entire inside of the main shield, entire bottom of the main shield and bottom of the tube shield. I wanted to keep the black appearance on the most visible surfaces. In hind sight I should have installed the foam on the inside of the tube shield but did not do so at the time. I used almost the entire 32" x 54" sheet (purchased on eBay for $43).

The test results were encouraging, however, I didn't have time do remove the shield and do a back-to-back:

Ambient Temp: 81 degrees F
DSE Heat Shield with Dynaliner foam installed
3k RPM constant runs: IAT = ~91 degrees F or 10 degrees over ambient
3 minute heat soak: IAT = ~107F or 26 degrees over ambient


Compared to my previous run (66 ambient) this improved the delta running IAT by 4 degrees and soak IAT by 17 degrees

Not bad for $43 and an hour of time. The results could possibly be improved by adding a second layer along the outside bottom of the shield, along the outside of the sides, and along the inside of the tube shield. Note, the first run was even better (6 and 23 degrees over ambient) but I think things got thoroughly heat soaked after the first cycle of running / soaking. Also, the fans were definitely on when idling but the temps weren't climbing at a rate previously seen.

This also has the added bonus of cushioning the contact points between the shield and the car.


1178811789117901179111792

I insulated my shield with some silver reflective heat shield stuff but haven't tested it yet. Doug, did you remember to leave the drain holes open in the bottom of the shield? I almost forgot to do this.

[SRT BILL]

Does anyone think the dynaliner 1/4" will work or are we better off using the 1/8" stuff??

[Steve M]

Does anyone think the dynaliner 1/4" will work or are we better off using the 1/8" stuff??

It might work better, but I don't know if there'd be enough clearance to use that product...it is a pretty snug fit on mine.

[ViperGeorge]

Does anyone think the dynaliner 1/4" will work or are we better off using the 1/8" stuff??

If applied to the outside of the shield it would probably interfere with putting the rubber grommet thing back in. It is already tough to get this thing seated properly.

[SRT BILL]

Looks like Doug installed Dynaliner on the inside of unit, I'm getting ready to do my own install of Doug's shield and like the idea of the added insulation and the possible benefits. Just curious if the 1/4" stuff might work.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I used 1/8". That thickness allows installation on many of the sections without fit interference. The tolerances for install are tight.

You could probably increase the thickness on most of the outer bottom and sides without trouble but anywhere there is contact with the car, airbox, or between shields you'll want 1/8" thickness or no added insulation. See my photos, certain areas were purposefully left clean (such as the drain holes).

[GreenVenom]

Hey Doug, would this help with the AC to cool better when idling in traffic especially with the Dyno Mat addition?
Thanks, SSG Nerd, Brian lol

[Steve M]

Hey Doug, would this help with the AC to cool better when idling in traffic especially with the Dyno Mat addition?
Thanks, SSG Nerd, Brian lol

I know this wasn't directed at me, but I'll take a stab at it anyway - this should not have any impact on AC operation either way. In order for the AC to cool effectively, you need airflow through the condenser - since you are idling in traffic, the only way to do this is by turning on the electric fans on the radiator to pull air through both the condenser and radiator. The fans do work, but it is no substitute for air moving through them at speed coming through the nose of the car.

If you want the AC to work better under those conditions, you need to focus on what is driving the heat into the cabin, which is from the exhaust, specifically the catalytic converters. The stock cats on these cars hold in an immense amount of heat, and they are directly in front of your feet on the floor. The rest of the heat generated moves through the exhaust in the side sills, so now you are getting baked on two sides of where you are sitting. If you want to reduce the heat the most, you'd probably do well to look into high flow cats to replace the OEM ones. Jon B has data to suggest exhaust temp reductions of around 150°F depending on substrate, and that is pretty substantial.

The air box heat shield only has an impact on the air the engine is breathing in.

[GreenVenom]

Thanks Steve M!! Great explanation, makes total sense!!

[danny1305]

That drain tube seems to be a hot item...ordered from two different places and both sent an email the next day informing me they are out of stock and on back order with no ETA

[KB Viper]

That drain tube seems to be a hot item...ordered from two different places and both sent an email the next day informing me they are out of stock and on back order with no ETA

Same here. I ordered one form my local dealer and he said the same, back order with no eta.

[Zybane]

My 15 TA 2.0 doesn't have the drain tube. Ordered it.

[FrgMstr]

I used 1/8". That thickness allows installation on many of the sections without fit interference. The tolerances for install are tight.

You could probably increase the thickness on most of the outer bottom and sides without trouble but anywhere there is contact with the car, airbox, or between shields you'll want 1/8" thickness or no added insulation. See my photos, certain areas were purposefully left clean (such as the drain holes).

Got my Dynaliner in this weekend. Will get it in place before Dustball Rally for sure.

[Zybane]

Err, vendor I ordered the drain tube from cancelled the order and said the part is not produced anymore...

[FrgMstr]

Err, vendor I ordered the drain tube from cancelled the order and said the part is not produced anymore...

Should not be hard to fab one yourself. Just the the outside diameter of the nipple and match some flexible tubing to it. Might get some clear vinyl from Home Depot and just put a fastener through the end to pinch is off somewhat.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

When I get time l try to source a solution (have been extremely busy as of late). Or as FrgMstr suggests there are probably some simple DIY solutions out there.

[DZnutz]

so are you guys removing or installing the drain tube? i would assume that the drain tube would allow hot air to get into the airbox... thus, something to avoid having

[FrgMstr]

so are you guys removing or installing the drain tube? i would assume that the drain tube would allow hot air to get into the airbox... thus, something to avoid having

Exactly, the absence of the drain tube "nipple" is allowing hot air to be pulled from under the hood (high pressure area) into the intake (low pressure area). Still very surprised to see the data that was shown on it above though.

[Nine Ball]

I installed my box this past weekend. I have to say, it was one of the nicest custom fabricated parts I've seen, very good attention to detail, and the fitment was excellent.

I wrapped the inside surfaces with the 1/8" Dynaliner, and then added an extra layer on the bottom surface that faces the radiator. I also installed the rubber plug on the bottom of the airbox.

Prior to installing the box, my IAT's typically read 15-20F higher than ambient.

After the box:

80F ambient, cruising IAT's read between 9-11F higher than ambient.
90F ambient, cruising IAT's read between 9-11F higher than ambient.

Looks like it is working well!

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Installing the rubber nipple to cover the hole in the undertske of the airbox. The airbox is pulling air in from wherever it can and the hot air in the engine bay helps heat IAT significantly. A direct tap to air that is probably 150 degrees or so.

Word on the street is that this is not insalled on the 2014+ because the factory got a new rain booth that was causing the airbox to fill during rain simulation tests. Removing the nipple allowed the airbox to drain more quickly due to the larger unrestricted hole.

[dethred]

I just bought some DEI heat foil, so I'll try to get a before and after report on that. If it doesn't go well (as expected), I'll buy the heat shield and test with both. Finally, I may wrap the airbox, tubes, and heat shield then do some more before/after tests.

[ViperGeorge]

Installing the rubber nipple to cover the hole in the undertske of the airbox. The airbox is pulling air in from wherever it can and the hot air in the engine bay helps heat IAT significantly. A direct tap to air that is probably 150 degrees or so.

Word on the street is that this is not insalled on the 2014+ because the factory got a new rain booth that was causing the airbox to fill during rain simulation tests. Removing the nipple allowed the airbox to drain more quickly due to the larger unrestricted hole.

I spoke with an SRT engineer about the nipple. It is supposed to be installed as it prevents the intake from sucking rain water into the drain hole in the bottom of the air cleaner. www.mopardealerparts.com still shows them in stock for $6.00 plus shipping.

[Zybane]

I don't see anything that shows the nipple being "in stock" at that web site.

[ViperGeorge]

I don't see anything that shows the nipple being "in stock" at that web site.

Put the part number in the search box. A picture of the part will come up. Click on the part number and then add it to your cart. I see no indication when I do this that it is back ordered or unavailable. I can go right to check out. I would proceed with an order but I already purchased and received three of them from this site.

[KB Viper]

I don't see anything that shows the nipple being "in stock" at that web site.

I called. It's not in stock, it's on back order with no eta.

[Zybane]

Put the part number in the search box. A picture of the part will come up. Click on the part number and then add it to your cart. I see no indication when I do this that it is back ordered or unavailable. I can go right to check out. I would proceed with an order but I already purchased and received three of them from this site.

Unfortunately none of that means its in stock.

[ViperGeorge]

Unfortunately none of that means its in stock.
Too bad. I ordered them last week and received all three.

[Voice of Reason]

A trip to Lowes should alleviate this nipple issue. It's not complex, all we are needing is to reduce the ~1" opening down to something small enough to allow water to drain without letting unnecessary hot air in. I'll work on this tomorrow and post what I come up with...

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I've ordered some samples for evaluation, will report on how they work when they arrive.

[Nine Ball]

I plugged mine with a simple rubber cap, something you would find on a fuel fitting nipple to protect the threads. Fit perfectly, I had one laying around that was the same size. Looked like one of these.

http://cdn.mocap.com/grafx/RVC_-_caps-vinyl-round-rubber_group1.png

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Yep, I've ordered some high temp versions with a pull. The pull could be cut at the end for drain purposes.

For anyone looking to do this themselves, the OD of the tube is about 1", ID of the tube is about 0.76"

12003

[TooBlue]

Wouldn't a smaller 90* fitting (reduced from the 1" drain box hole) coming out of the air box worK? Water would drain but the hot air would stay out..?

Those parts are available at any auto parts or hardware store.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I wanted to tabulate the readings I've been able to take so far. All of these attempt to be as scientific as possible, even down to the same stretch of road for running and same parking spot / direction for idling. There are a lot of moving variables when measuring IAT!

12009

[FrgMstr]

If that does not sell everyone that races reasons to grab one of these, I do not know what will.

GREAT FRIGGIN DOCUMENTAION DOUG!!

The Dynaliner is going on mine tomorrow.


I wanted to tabulate the readings I've been able to take so far. All of these attempt to be as scientific as possible, even down to the same stretch of road for running and same parking spot / direction for idling. There are a lot of moving variables when measuring IAT!

12009

[Steve M]

Dynaliner is on order for mine as well...should have it by Friday.

I've logged a lot of data on my car as well (not nearly as scientific though), and it does make a substantial difference. I think the Dynaliner will have a large impact on keeping the thorough heat soaking due to the radiator fans blasting the airbox and heat shield to a minimum, as shown by your results. Once those fans start going, it is game over for your IATs.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Once those fans start going, it is game over for your IATs.

Yes this is true. Many of these idle results included "fan blasts" which caused a quick increase in IAT. The dynaliner definitely helped in this regard, slowing the IAT rise to a creep during the fan blasts in my observations. Interestingly, two layers of Dynaliner on the bottom of the shield yieled no improvement over a single layer. For instructions on my Dynaliner process, see the updated file below:


http://dougshelbyengineering.com/uploads/DSE_Dodge_Viper_2008__Intake_Heat_Shield_Rev2.pdf


By the way, the next batch of heat shields will be taken to be ceramic coated on Friday.

[TooBlue]

Thanks for all the research Doug...!

[98intrigue]

Great research, Doug! I'm purchasing some Dynaliner now. I need all I can get here in FL.

[Rapidrezults]

Doug, you are awesome! Thank you for your research.

Dynaliner on order!

[ViperGeorge]

I plugged mine with a simple rubber cap, something you would find on a fuel fitting nipple to protect the threads. Fit perfectly, I had one laying around that was the same size. Looked like one of these.

http://cdn.mocap.com/grafx/RVC_-_caps-vinyl-round-rubber_group1.png

Did you put a hole in it to allow water to drain?

[ViperGeorge]

I insulated the bottom of my heat shield in my 15 TA with some reflective insulation I had. It could have been the Dynaliner but I don't remember. It was from Summit. I also installed the nipple thing. Either way, it dramatically improved IATs. I was consistently running 9-11 degrees above ambient even when beating the hell out of the car on the track yesterday. Now coolant temps, they were a different story. They were running 240+. Not good but despite the high coolant temps the IATs stayed low.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I insulated the bottom of my heat shield in my 15 TA with some reflective insulation I had. It could have been the Dynaliner but I don't remember. It was from Summit. I also installed the nipple thing. Either way, it dramatically improved IATs. I was consistently running 9-11 degrees above ambient even when beating the hell out of the car on the track yesterday. Now coolant temps, they were a different story. They were running 240+. Not good but despite the high coolant temps the IATs stayed low.

Thanks for the update, sounds like a good result.

I just received the sample alternative drain plugs and think they will work well. They can be cut open or left closed depending on what the user wants. Will post photos soon. I think they are only available in bulk but will probably include them in future shield orders and ship them out with the Gen V thumb screws if desired.

[KB Viper]

I
Thanks for the update, sounds like a good result.

I just received the sample alternative drain plugs and think they will work well. They can be cut open or left closed depending on what the user wants. Will post photos soon. I think they are only available in bulk but will probably include them in future shield orders and ship them out with the Gen V thumb screws if desired.

Count me in

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Photos of the alternative plug solution... to be included in new heat shield orders and upcoming shipment of Gen V thumb screws. :)

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And updated instructions (page 5)

http://dougshelbyengineering.com/uploads/DSE_Dodge_Viper_2008__Intake_Heat_Shield_Rev3.pdf

[Steve M]

Looks like the perfect solution. Great find!

[danny1305]

Thanks! Very helpful as I was having a lot of trouble finding any

[mjorgensen]

Just installed one of Doug's shields this morning, very nice piece of engineering Doug, fit and finish were top notch, I wont have any reservations offering these to my clients.

[Nambo]

Just installed one of Doug's shields this morning, very nice piece of engineering Doug, fit and finish were top notch, I wont have any reservations offering these to my clients.

I've got one sitting in the box Mark just waiting on the ACR. One less item for you to take off the TA!

[Steve M]

Just installed one of Doug's shields this morning, very nice piece of engineering Doug, fit and finish were top notch, I wont have any reservations offering these to my clients.

Agreed...for something seemingly so simple, it is actually a very complex piece that is well made.

[BJG32]

I am confused about ordering. Does the $425 kit have everything I need to install or do I need to add the drain plug, and bolts etc?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I am confused about ordering. Does the $425 kit have everything I need to install or do I need to add the drain plug, and bolts etc?

It has all you need. Those are just spare parts. Thanks!

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Just installed one of Doug's shields this morning, very nice piece of engineering Doug, fit and finish were top notch, I wont have any reservations offering these to my clients.


Agreed...for something seemingly so simple, it is actually a very complex piece that is well made.


I installed my box this past weekend. I have to say, it was one of the nicest custom fabricated parts I've seen, very good attention to detail, and the fitment was excellent.

I wrapped the inside surfaces with the 1/8" Dynaliner, and then added an extra layer on the bottom surface that faces the radiator. I also installed the rubber plug on the bottom of the airbox.

Prior to installing the box, my IAT's typically read 15-20F higher than ambient.

After the box:

80F ambient, cruising IAT's read between 9-11F higher than ambient.
90F ambient, cruising IAT's read between 9-11F higher than ambient.

Looks like it is working well!

Thanks for the kind words everyone, that's the goal with every one of my products.

[LmeaViper]

Photos of the alternative plug solution... to be included in new heat shield orders and upcoming shipment of Gen V thumb screws. :)

1212912130

And updated instructions (page 5)

http://dougshelbyengineering.com/uploads/DSE_Dodge_Viper_2008__Intake_Heat_Shield_Rev3.pdf

Awesome.

[DPViper]

I have really enjoyed reading about the analysis of the IATs how SSGNRDZ developed the heat shield. Fascinating stuff. Basic questions....how much actual horsepower am I losing when timing is pulled and if I don't go to the drag strip or spends lots of time idling in traffic....would I really notice a big difference in performance? Thanks

[Steve M]

I have really enjoyed reading about the analysis of the IATs how SSGNRDZ developed the heat shield. Fascinating stuff. Basic questions....how much actual horsepower am I losing when timing is pulled and if I don't go to the drag strip or spends lots of time idling in traffic....would I really notice a big difference in performance? Thanks

The first time I noticed an issue was a couple years ago before I even had a remote understanding of how the Viper PCM works. I was sitting at a traffic light on a hot summer day waiting to be able to turn to get on the interstate...when I went to give it hell on the on-ramp in 2nd gear, the car basically fell on its face and felt like I was dragging a boat anchor behind me. If I had to guess, I was down at least 50HP for it to be that noticeable...fast forward another year when I got my hands on HPTuners, and I figured out that given the conditions, the PCM was likely pulling anywhere between 8-12 degrees of timing due to high IATs. At peak torque (between 4,800-5,000 RPMs), the Gen 4 and Gen 5 calibrations call for about 18° of timing, so with the IAT modifier pulling 8°-12° of that out, you are looking commanding between 8°-10° of timing at that point, and that's really low. An otherwise stock Gen 4/5 car can handle anywhere from 22°-24° of timing at peak torque...that's actually where most of your power gains come from with a tune. Additionally, if the PCM pulls timing, it also adds fuel as an extra safety measure, so not only will you be running very low timing values, you'll also be running rich.

Let the car sit for a few minutes (at least until the radiator fans kick on) and let everything get hot, and then try doing a good 2nd gear pull right after that (now is a great time of year to try this). I'm guessing you'll notice a difference in how hard it pulls when the car is hot.

[DZnutz]

Arent any of you concerned with the engine hydrolocking if you completely blockoff the drain nipple?

why not just extend it with silicone tubing and route to the bottom of the engine bay?

[dethred]

Let the car sit for a few minutes (at least until the radiator fans kick on) and let everything get hot, and then try doing a good 2nd gear pull right after that (now is a great time of year to try this). I'm guessing you'll notice a difference in how hard it pulls when the car is hot.

I felt it for sure. To me it even sounds a bit different when it's down on power. I can also tell by my standard P Zeros slipping in first gear, but only when the IAT is below about 95°.

[Viperawi]

The first time I noticed an issue was a couple years ago before I even had a remote understanding of how the Viper PCM works. I was sitting at a traffic light on a hot summer day waiting to be able to turn to get on the interstate...when I went to give it hell on the on-ramp in 2nd gear, the car basically fell on its face and felt like I was dragging a boat anchor behind me. If I had to guess, I was down at least 50HP for it to be that noticeable...fast forward another year when I got my hands on HPTuners, and I figured out that given the conditions, the PCM was likely pulling anywhere between 8-12 degrees of timing due to high IATs. At peak torque (between 4,800-5,000 RPMs), the Gen 4 and Gen 5 calibrations call for about 18° of timing, so with the IAT modifier pulling 8°-12° of that out, you are looking commanding between 8°-10° of timing at that point, and that's really low. An otherwise stock Gen 4/5 car can handle anywhere from 22°-24° of timing at peak torque...that's actually where most of your power gains come from with a tune. Additionally, if the PCM pulls timing, it also adds fuel as an extra safety measure, so not only will you be running very low timing values, you'll also be running rich.

Let the car sit for a few minutes (at least until the radiator fans kick on) and let everything get hot, and then try doing a good 2nd gear pull right after that (now is a great time of year to try this). I'm guessing you'll notice a difference in how hard it pulls when the car is hot.

I totally agree, I also believe it's about 50hp lost or so.
Because of the hot summer we live in, I have not enjoyed my viper much for the last two months due to the IAT always high, it's crazy hot in here.
Luckily though, I have bought the heat shield and received it, and what a piece ! you can see the commitment and efforts given to a simple part just to be perfect. I've been really busy not to install it but I will come back once it's done. Thanks again guys for the great part you supply.

[ViperGeorge]

Does the PCM also take timing out if the coolant temps rise? With the shielding my IATs are fine on the track - 8-9 degrees over ambient, but my coolant temps are too high - 243 degrees.

[Steve M]

Yes it does...at 243°, it would be pulling between 6-7° of timing.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn227/meentss02/HPTuners%20Viper/Gen%205%20ECT%20Timing%20Table_zps1fzyofpg.jpg

[IndyRon]

Steve, do you know what temp the stock thermostat opens/closes? It seems that it is around a 190deg. If that is the case, we are often dealing with 1-2 degrees of timing being pulled from this on top of IAT's. Maybe a slightly cooler stat would be a good investment with reprogrammed fans.

[Steve M]

Steve, do you know what temp the stock thermostat opens/closes? It seems that it is around a 190deg. If that is the case, we are often dealing with 1-2 degrees of timing being pulled from this on top of IAT's. Maybe a slightly cooler stat would be a good investment with reprogrammed fans.

I'd guess around 187° or so, but I don't know for sure. My car regularly stays down in the low to mid 180s just cruising around, getting up to 190 or so sitting in traffic. What I don't know is if the ECT and IAT timing tables add together, or if they are a one or the other type of deal - as in, if it is pulling 3 degrees of timing for IATs and your ECTs are creeping up to the point that it would pull 2 degrees, does it pull 5 or 3? I'd have to do some testing to figure that one out...wouldn't be too hard to figure out though.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

So I got mine today and I think I figured out why this unit is priced as it is. That would be because of all the machining time spent on the logo on the two thumb screws. All kidding aside this looks to be a well thought out part. After looking at the thing I was wondering if you are seeing higher coolant temps after install. When the box is in place it looks as if it blocks a large percentage of the exhaust flow from the rad. fans. Just wondering.
Also I was interested in your Black Ceramic Coating is this something you spray on after you have the parts Anodized?
I guess all I need is a sheet of Dynaliner and I'm good to go. I did notice half a bat of R32 up in the rafters out in the garage. Well maybe I better order the Dynaliner.

I actually looked at a lot of thumb screw options (thumb screws were a late add on after pricing was set). At the end of the day the best option for weight, cost, and looks was an anodized aluminum part. The screws more are visible on the Gen IV. Then came the realization that the Gen V has a different length screw. I'll just say I have enough of both to last a while. Anyway, the screws cost about the same as if you ordered a stainless steel one from McMaster but are lighter and look less obvious.

The shields are not anodized first they are just sand blasted and ceramic coated.

In my testing I haven't noticed coolant or oil temp move at all but I can only speak for my car. The design goal was a tight fit around the airbox to reduce the possibility of any side effects.

[Steve M]

After looking at the thing I was wondering if you are seeing higher coolant temps after install. When the box is in place it looks as if it blocks a large percentage of the exhaust flow from the rad. fans. Just wondering.

I've logged a lot of data with the heat shield installed, and I've seen no impact on my coolant temps.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I was just giving you a bad time about the Thumb Screws. Thank you for all your time and effort to bring what looks to me as a top notch product to such a low volume market.

No problem! Also I forgot your drain plug so I'll be sending that in another shipment soon. Thanks again for your purchase.

[dethred]

Even though it will be cooling down in the coming months, I'm thinking I need to go ahead and order one. Is this ordered through your site? Do you have enough on hand to fill an extra order?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Even though it will be cooling down in the coming months, I'm thinking I need to go ahead and order one. Is this ordered through your site? Do you have enough on hand to fill an extra order?

I'm getting ready to announce the second batch being ready to ship but am waiting on some more inventory to be completed. I have a few on hand now that can ship immediately. They can be ordered through my website.

[Steve M]

Even though it will be cooling down in the coming months, I'm thinking I need to go ahead and order one. Is this ordered through your site? Do you have enough on hand to fill an extra order?

Trust me when I say cool weather doesn't make much of a difference...if the radiator fans turn on at any point, that airbox gets blasted and the IATs go up to unacceptable levels. Even with 50° weather back in the spring, I was still seeing IATs in the 80s, which is enough for the IAT timing table to start pulling timing.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Trust me when I say cool weather doesn't make much of a difference...if the radiator fans turn on at any point, that airbox gets blasted and the IATs go up to unacceptable levels. Even with 50° weather back in the spring, I was still seeing IATs in the 80s, which is enough for the IAT timing table to start pulling timing.

Exactly. Even if timing wasn't being pulled you'd have much cooler air in turn generating more power.

For those that missed the testing in February... even at 20 degrees F with snow on the ground IAT without the shield was 86 degrees, more than enough to pull timing at idle.

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[v10tt]

I tested last night the shield with the Dynamatt insulation and the drain hole plug.

A/C ON, 86 deg. Ambient.

At a traffic light, IAT went as high as 105F (19 deg. over ambient)

Cruising on the hwy at 80 mph, IAT 96F (10 deg. over Ambient)

3rd and 4th gear pull, IAT 93F (7 deg. over ambient)

A/C OFF., 83F ambient temps _ test was done couple hours later.

Cruising at 80 mph , IAT 91F (8 deg over Ambient)

3rd and 4th gear pull, IAT went to 87F, and towards the end of 4th Gear I saw 86F (3-4 deg. over ambient)

A/C off sure makes a couple of deg. difference vs. having it on. Fans not blasting the Air box does keep it cooler.

[DZnutz]

Arent any of you concerned with the engine hydrolocking if you completely blockoff the drain nipple?

why not just extend it with silicone tubing and route to the bottom of the engine bay?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Arent any of you concerned with the engine hydrolocking if you completely blockoff the drain nipple?

why not just extend it with silicone tubing and route to the bottom of the engine bay?

I wouldn't recommend completely blocking the drain nipple in case of being caught in surprise storms but if you never drive when there is rain and the blockage is removable as needed I don't think there would be an issue.

Extending the drain to the bottom of the engine bay is an interesting idea, would have to look at possible routing paths.

[v10tt]

I did open a small 1/8" hole on the bottom of the plug I used to block the opening so it will drain in case it gets water.

[dethred]

Extending the drain to the bottom of the engine bay is an interesting idea, would have to look at possible routing paths.

And you'd have to make damn sure it didn't swing around. Lots of things spinning around that area.

[DZnutz]

Not unlike any other modification in the engine bay, its very easy to ensure that the tubing doesnt go anywhere near anything hazardous. Im quite surprised that no ones thought of this

[SSGNRDZ_28]

If anyone is having issues with the recently sent GenV thumb screws PM or email me. Some were machined out of tolerance apparently and will not thread in. It should be obvious as they won't go in more than a few turns by hand. I've just gone through my inventory and a small percentage are this way. I'll get replacements out as soon as I can, just send the old ones back with the return label. Thanks

[dethred]

I'm getting ready to announce the second batch being ready to ship but am waiting on some more inventory to be completed. I have a few on hand now that can ship immediately. They can be ordered through my website.

Somehow I didn't see your response earlier. Ordered. Can you email or PM me the tracking number once it ships, I want to make sure I'm in town when it arrives.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Somehow I didn't see your response earlier. Ordered. Can you email or PM me the tracking number once it ships, I want to make sure I'm in town when it arrives.

Thanks! Let me know if you don't have tracking numbers.

[bogdan]

Surprise, surprise!

In the mail today, I received two thumb screws and a drain cover for the airbox drain. Was not expecting them at all. Doug, you are amazing, and a class act!

[dethred]

Thanks! Let me know if you don't have tracking numbers.

Sweet Jesus, I had a tracking number before I checked my email for the first time yesterday. Thanks!

[dethred]

I got the heat shield in the mail today. Not even two full business days after ordering it. Doug, whatever you make next, as long as I need it you can take my money!

I put about 30 miles on it tonight; in this area the outside temp was about 74°F. I left the AC on the entire time. For reference my airbox is covered completely in reflect-a-gold from DEI, with an extra layer on the bottom.

The combination of the foil and heat shield solved the heatsoaked issue completely. It took about 10 miles in traffic to get the IAT to register above 80°F. After 30 minutes it would creep up to 91°F at traffic lights, but drop down into the mid-80's under throttle. When giving it anything above ~50% throttle the temps would drop to the low 80's, thus eliminating any timing adjustments.

The parts look OEM, and are worth every penny. Installation took about 5 minutes with a flat head screwdriver and an Allen key.

[Rapidrezults]

Surprise, surprise!

In the mail today, I received two thumb screws and a drain cover for the airbox drain. Was not expecting them at all. Doug, you are amazing, and a class act!

Me too! Thanks Doug!

[Viperawi]

Surprise, surprise!

In the mail today, I received two thumb screws and a drain cover for the airbox drain. Was not expecting them at all. Doug, you are amazing, and a class act!

Me as well ! talk about Class !! Thanks Doug, this is the first time ever someone actually take the time and effort to do something like this. Can't say thanks enough.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I got the heat shield in the mail today. Not even two full business days after ordering it. Doug, whatever you make next, as long as I need it you can take my money!

I put about 30 miles on it tonight; in this area the outside temp was about 74°F. I left the AC on the entire time. For reference my airbox is covered completely in reflect-a-gold from DEI, with an extra layer on the bottom.

The combination of the foil and heat shield solved the heatsoaked issue completely. It took about 10 miles in traffic to get the IAT to register above 80°F. After 30 minutes it would creep up to 91°F at traffic lights, but drop down into the mid-80's under throttle. When giving it anything above ~50% throttle the temps would drop to the low 80's, thus eliminating any timing adjustments.

The parts look OEM, and are worth every penny. Installation took about 5 minutes with a flat head screwdriver and an Allen key.

Thanks for the feedback and testing. I wonder what the results would be if you insulated the shield and turned off the AC?


Me too! Thanks Doug!


Me as well ! talk about Class !! Thanks Doug, this is the first time ever someone actually take the time and effort to do something like this. Can't say thanks enough.

No problem guys!

[Crotalidae]

Doug you are a top notch vendor!!! Thank you sir as others have echoed for the plug & screws!!! Awesome product!!!

[98intrigue]

Doug, thanks for a great product. I didn't expect it, but you sent out the nipple and correct length screws for a Gen V. Great customer service! I wrapped my entire shield in Dynaliner and installed it Friday. I only put a handful of miles on it on Saturday, but noticed IATs are definitely lower now that the shield is on (10-12 degrees over ambient).

[FLATOUT]

Doug, thanks for a great product. I didn't expect it, but you sent out the nipple and correct length screws for a Gen V. Great customer service! I wrapped my entire shield in Dynaliner and installed it Friday. I only put a handful of miles on it on Saturday, but noticed IATs are definitely lower now that the shield is on (10-12 degrees over ambient).

Agree it's an awesome mod!

[dirkbonn]

Ordered my heat shield kit this morning. It should me a great piece to add to my new toy!

I read through this entire thread and couldn't be more impressed with Doug and DSE.

[Jdmuscle]

Seems like I will need this in Houston even though I haven't experienced any power loss or anything but having cooler IATs was something I was after when my C6Z would dive into civic mode in NY traffic in summer. Given that I'm in Houston now... I better take advantage of what's out there... Plus Doug seems to have amazing reviews.

On the whole, this community seems to have an amazing set of supporting vendors. This is my first viper and I'm happy to be part of this community.

[Arizona Vipers]

For reference my airbox is covered completely in reflect-a-gold from DEI, with an extra layer on the bottom.


Do you have pics of the airbox completely covered in the Reflect-A-Gold?

[dethred]

Do you have pics of the airbox completely covered in the Reflect-A-Gold?

I don't have any current ones with the heat shield also covered. Here's a short clip of it on Youtube... https://youtu.be/RaII_q2taWU?t=41s

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[q8blueviper]

covered my heat shield with gold wrap from DEI

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[Arizona Vipers]

I don't have any current ones with the heat shield also covered. Here's a short clip of it on Youtube... https://youtu.be/RaII_q2taWU?t=41s

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Wow you must have spent $300+ on gold! I'm gonna do the same thing on my track car.

[dethred]

Wow you must have spent $300+ on gold! I'm gonna do the same thing on my track car.

Actually it was maybe $100, or $120. A few small sheets of it for the airbox, then a couple rolls of it. Covered the fuse box too, even though my headers are coated.

I recommend smooth tubes for the intake, as a bunch was wasted on tucking the foil into the kinks in the stock piping.

[Viper.954]

What is the part number for the Dynaliner recommended for the Heat Shield?

[ForTehNguyen]

DSE's instructions recommended the 32" x 54" x 1/8" size

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-11101-Dynaliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001KM9C4C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1514380252&sr=1-1&keywords=dynaliner+1%2F8

[Scott_in_fl]

So, you wrap the shield, airbox and intake runners with the Dynaliner first, and then the gold foil over that?

Or does the gold go on first, and then the Dynaliner?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

If you add gold foil it should go on the outside as it is reflecting radiated heat.

[ForTehNguyen]

i forgot to get a baseline of what IAT vs ambient for no heat shield. Anyone have their numbers? I drove around this morning with the heatshield + dynaliner and was getting about 11-12 degF IAT above ambient. During moderate idling, maybe it was 20 degF above ambient

[98intrigue]

I wanted to add a real world comparison that I experienced over the weekend.

A friend and I were both sitting in stop and go traffic for about 30 minutes while entering a large car event. My car has the DSE heat shield and his does not. We saw a 30 degree difference! The temperature was around 74 degrees at the time if I remember correctly. My IATs read 100 after about 20 minutes of stop and go traffic, while my friend’s IATs read 130. For comparison’s sake, we both have ARH headers, no cats, and OEM mufflers.