Went to the strip!

[ViperPete]

Gainesville Raceway

Wow what a great time.

And... wow you guys that race these cars have some skills!

Best of 4 runs was
12.37 Time
122.59 Speed
2.34 60'

It was around 90 degrees (at night) and crazy humidity.

I wanted to get into the 11's but just couldn't launch the car. I need more practice!!!

I'll post up some vids later.

The best part was that I went with a buddy of mine. He has an automatic 730whp ZL1 and on the street we were neck and neck. We did 70-150mph rolls. On the strip he was able to get into the high 11's.

What's interesting to me is how on the street we were basically a tie but on the track he had a much easier time with everything. He's also much more experienced than me.

The track is so much different than the street.

Can't wait to go back!

https://plus.google.com/113732977472989663960/posts/AhkGTj9i3KW

[RAY W]

The Track is a Dreamcrusher and a reality check. Once you learn what you are doing mid 11 second times should be no problem. Even in 90 degree weather. There is track prep, track location, temperature, air density, tricks and skills that only come with time and experience to allow a stock Gen V in the low 11's and high 10's. Thanks for pushing away the keyboard and actually using the car.

[FLATOUT]

The Track is a Dreamcrusher and a reality check. Once you learn what you are doing mid 11 second times should be no problem. Even in 90 degree weather. There is track prep, track location, temperature, air density, tricks and skills that only come with time and experience to allow a stock Gen V in the low 11's and high 10's. Thanks for pushing away the keyboard and actually using the car.

Exactly, and the more owners that get out there the better! Way to go OP you get your 60' even into the 1.9's and you'll get your 11 second slip even in the heat of the summer.

[Jack B]

As has been stated in numerous threads, the only way to launch these cars is with ESC off and slip the clutch. Start at 3000 rpm and work your way up till you find the sweet spot

[ViperPete]

As has been stated in numerous threads, the only way to launch these cars is with ESC off and slip the clutch. Start at 3000 rpm and work your way up till you find the sweet spot

I ate a big meal before we left because I know I would have the jitters. Even with eating, I still had the jitters!
When the lights went down the tree, I would let the clutch out way too fast and bog the car.

I did have ESC off. I'd light up the tires a little bit to get some heat in them. Didn't seem to make a difference.

Knowledge and Experience are two totally completely different things.

I just need more practice.

[98intrigue]

I wish I could join you. Did you go to Orlando Speed World?

[ViperPete]

I wish I could join you. Did you go to Orlando Speed World?

Gainesville Dragstrip

[Nine Ball]

Glad to see you made the attempt, regardless of weather conditions. I'm always amused by the keyboard racers on the internet, who think running 10s or 11s is easy to do. Even more laughter when I read that drag racing a manual takes no skill. That just tells me they can't do it well.

ET is all about the 60' time, and how well you modulate the clutch vs rpm. It takes a lot of practice, but is fun to master.

[ViperPete]

One thing I did notice however....

When after the first run going into reverse would CRUNCH into gear. Like grinding the gear to get it into reverse....

That cannot be normal, but it went away when the car cooled off.... So I dunno.

[WANTED]

I ate a big meal before we left because I know I would have the jitters. Even with eating, I still had the jitters!
When the lights went down the tree, I would let the clutch out way too fast and bog the car.

I did have ESC off. I'd light up the tires a little bit to get some heat in them. Didn't seem to make a difference.

Knowledge and Experience are two totally completely different things.

I just need more practice.

Don't worry about the tree lights, when learning your not trying to cut a great time on the launch. Don't even worry about red lighting. Do read nine balls thread about shifting, great advice and also the advice jon b just posted. Good luck to you and keep us updated on your improvement.

[ViperPete]

Posted a link to the run in the top post!

[Jack B]

There is a possibility the fluid in the slave boiled. Perhaps the clutch slipped more than you thought, adding to the heat in the clutch system.



One thing I did notice however....

When after the first run going into reverse would CRUNCH into gear. Like grinding the gear to get it into reverse....

That cannot be normal, but it went away when the car cooled off.... So I dunno.

[Rare Snake]

It's great to see more people trying the drag strip for the first time in their Vipers. It takes a bit of practice to get the most out of our cars, and I'm nowhere near perfect either.

Anybody can hop in a GTR or something automatic and awd and have a great run on their first try, but I take a lot of pride in learning my car and trying to get better on every pass.

Good job OP, you will see 11's soon!

Dason

[lochnessmonster]

One thing I did notice however....

When after the first run going into reverse would CRUNCH into gear. Like grinding the gear to get it into reverse....

That cannot be normal, but it went away when the car cooled off.... So I dunno.

This is exactly what I have mentioned in my thread regarding my difficulty going into reverse. I have changed out the Transmission fluid with Royal Purple Max ATF. Initially I thought it made a difference, but the problem is still there. What I have noticed, however, is if I take my time, and don't force it into reverse quickly, it won't make the "crunch" "ker thunk" sound/feeling. It's just a characteristic of the car I am learning to deal with. Not a big deal.

[ViperPete]

This is exactly what I have mentioned in my thread regarding my difficulty going into reverse. I have changed out the Transmission fluid with Royal Purple Max ATF. Initially I thought it made a difference, but the problem is still there. What I have noticed, however, is if I take my time, and don't force it into reverse quickly, it won't make the "crunch" "ker thunk" sound/feeling. It's just a characteristic of the car I am learning to deal with. Not a big deal.


It does not feel good. I have a 2005 SRT10 Ram Quad Cab that I converted to a T56. There is NO reverse lock out solenoid. What that means is that you can go into reverse at any forward speed. If I am not careful I will touch the shifter to reverse gear and get an awful grinding sound. Not the same thing as the Viper.

What I feel in the Viper is like the synchros aren't working properly. Or the clutch isn't doing its job.

[Nine Ball]

This is exactly what I have mentioned in my thread regarding my difficulty going into reverse. I have changed out the Transmission fluid with Royal Purple Max ATF. Initially I thought it made a difference, but the problem is still there. What I have noticed, however, is if I take my time, and don't force it into reverse quickly, it won't make the "crunch" "ker thunk" sound/feeling. It's just a characteristic of the car I am learning to deal with. Not a big deal.

The transmission fluid has nothing to do with the clutch. The trans fluid only lubricates the gears inside the trans, that is it.

The clutch hydraulic system operates from brake fluid, it feeds directly off of the brake cylinder reservoir. These hydraulic systems are notorious for boiling the fluid, making the clutch pedal feel mushy when hot. This might not allow the clutch pedal to fully disengage the clutch, so you get a nice grind when shifting into a gear or reverse because the clutch is still dragging a bit.

Two ways to help prevent that? Get a higher quality brake fluid, flush the brake lines and clutch line and replace the fluid. Then, install some heat sleeving on the hydraulic line that goes to the clutch master cylinder.

[ViperPete]

The transmission fluid has nothing to do with the clutch. The trans fluid only lubricates the gears inside the trans, that is it.

The clutch hydraulic system operates from brake fluid, it feeds directly off of the brake cylinder reservoir. These hydraulic systems are notorious for boiling the fluid, making the clutch pedal feel mushy when hot. This might not allow the clutch pedal to fully disengage the clutch, so you get a nice grind when shifting into a gear or reverse because the clutch is still dragging a bit.

Two ways to help prevent that? Get a higher quality brake fluid, flush the brake lines and clutch line and replace the fluid. Then, install some heat sleeving on the hydraulic line that goes to the clutch master cylinder.

That makes a lot of sense. Only the fluid is now cool and I still have difficulty going into reverse. It seems to crunch into reverse on the initial startup backing out of the garage. Once I wind through the gears a little bit it doesn't crunch anymore. Then this morning I got to work with the car, went to back out of the spot and there was only a "little" crunch, then it went into reverse fine

Could the fluid really break down from a few 70-150mph rolls?

[Nine Ball]

You picked the car up used though, right? No telling how the previous owner drove it. The worst case is that the clutch disk(s) is getting worn, and the clutch isn't disengaging as well. That crunch won't fix itself, it will only get worse and ruin the reverse synchro. Might want to get warranty to fix the problem.

Pump that clutch pedal a few times in the morning, before putting it into reverse. That might be a temporary fix.

[ViperPete]

You picked the car up used though, right? No telling how the previous owner drove it. The worst case is that the clutch disk(s) is getting worn, and the clutch isn't disengaging as well. That crunch won't fix itself, it will only get worse and ruin the reverse synchro. Might want to get warranty to fix the problem.

Pump that clutch pedal a few times in the morning, before putting it into reverse. That might be a temporary fix.

Better yet, i'll take it to the dealership tomorrow and hopefully it does the crunch. Nothing like showing up and the car doesn't do the problem lol