Coolant in Fascia

[Matt M, Pa]

Hey guys...1996 RT.

I had the car out last night, nothing out of the ordinary. I heard the cooling fan come on and off a couple times. The car was parked outside my attached garage for 20 minutes or so prior to being garaged.

This morning, I pulled the car out of the garage...washed it....and parked it in the detached garage. 200' drive. Later today, I found a puddle of coolant under the car, dripping out of the fascia. Removing the access plug, it appears that it came out of the nipple on the overflow tank. Cap is still in place. Also, I took the cap off the pressure tank on the inner fender...and it's full.

I changed the coolant during the summer of 2013 and don't recall anything like this happening. This morning, there was no coolant on the attached garage floor where the car was parked overnight.

I've done some research on line that says it could be anything from a bad radiator cap to a hole in the overflow bottle.

I'd sure appreciate some thoughts on how to get this sorted...

[Steve-Indy]

Put a strong light through the fenderwell porthole, then read the bottle level of coolant via the vertical slit in the splashguard provided for that purpose. It may be simple or complex...could be related to Gen I head gasket issue. Feel free to call me before you go too far. 317-402-9013.

[Matt M, Pa]

An update.

When I shine a light into the overflow bottle, it shows half full. Meaning, half green.

I also removed the cap from the pressure tank. Was able to get a few burps from the upper hose. I also checked the oil...looks fine.

Started the car and coolant was running out of the fascia again. While the engine was running, coolant was trickling out the nipple on the side of the overflow tank.

When the car cools...I'll try a new cap on the pressure tank. Then...I'm out of ideas...

[Steve-Indy]

Radiator leak???

[Matt M, Pa]

Another update...new cap...still dribbling from the overflow nipple

[mad prof]

Same car like yours same problem. Have you recently changed coolant and overfilled the system? As it is a closed system, excess fluid has only one wayout and that is the fascia bottle nipple.

I was too enthusiastic in filling the system and I am still doubtful I purged the system of air.

[Matt M, Pa]

Changed the coolant almost exactly two years ago.

[LATAMUD]

I've heard the fenderwell bottle sits near a bolt or screw. Over time with vibration a hole develops in the bottle and causes leaking.

[dave6666]

The screw in coolant bottle through core support mounting of said bottle has been a problem with the older cars. If you are certain the bottle is intact and that it came out the overflow, just because you did it "exactly the same way" 2 years ago does not mean unless you measured the coolant as you metered it in to the system during the refill both times, that you got the same amount in on the initial charge. Which could mean these 2 different fill events are possibly not the same. Just a though as you referenced them both.

Also, if the overflow line connection at the surge tank is not clamped there right below the radiator cap (the factory does not put a clamp on that line) and it leaks, it will displace coolant when the engine warms up, but not suck it back in when it cools. You will not see a leak, and it can cause this issue. It will also add air back in your system during each heat / cool cycle.

Another problem regarding the overflow bottle is it will get a green stain in it and there is a "permanent" level indicated. That is really just the stain. Are you sure whatever level you are seeing is real and accurate, apparent overflowing level aside?

Head gaskets were mentioned, and you can use a hydrocarbon tester on your coolant.

Have you check the pressure in the surge tank? Where the radiator cap is?

Lastly, you say coolant is leaking out the nipple by the radiator cap. Are you talking about where the line connects that goes to the overflow bottle? Does it do this right after starting the engine cold, like immediately? Or it starts after the engine warms up? Please detail what that is, because... coolant is supposed to come out there. Just not the instant you start a cold car. But as it warms up for sure.

[Matt M, Pa]

dave666...

I can confirm that I saw coolant trickling from the overflow bottle's spout in the fascia...using a mirror and light. (Not leaking at the pressure tank and cap)

I did change the coolant two years ago, the first time I did so on this car. Haven't seen a problem with coolant...but perhaps it was something building up over time? (I meant to express that it was almost exactly two years ago that I changed the coolant)

I'd agree that the overflow bottle could be stained. After seeing a picture of these bottles out of the car...I can see how it must be over filled for it to trickle out...despite what I think I see on the site gauge.

I don't remember how long the car had run prior to the coolant trickling out. I do know it never got to normal operating temp. while I was checking things.

Finally, the last time it was started/driven it was only taken something like 200' and shut off. I do realize that it could've occurred while driving the night before but the area was dry where it was parked over night.

I also would like to add that the head gaskets were done before my ownership, by a well known Viper authority. I have the receipts from 2005 using gaskets 4626640AE.

[dave6666]

A few approaches going forward...

* Get a small hose clamp on the line to the overflow bottle. That line is right below the radiator cap. Do it just because.

* On the extreme end of approaches, pull the bumper cover, clean and inspect the overflow bottle, return to service with correct coolant level.

* Drive the car and let it work itself out. Short of any coolant mess, there's really no harm being done assuming it may have just been an overfill. It will eventually stop puking coolant.

One clear indication that there really isn't any problem with the cooling system is operating temperature, and operating style.

If the temperature runs where it always has then that is a good indication you have coolant, flow, system pressure. By "operating style," what I mean by that is that the gauge moves around normally. No abrupt hiccups in gauge movement. Like it races to hot when you start the car then jumps back down to normal. Anything weird like that.

[LifeIsGood]

Here are my obligatory pictures...no surprise...

Cleaned coolant overflow and recovery bottles...

http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss78/kenandkristine/Viper/Viper%20Club%20DIY/Coolant%20Flush/GENIICoolantBottles_zps55d2be1a.jpg

Coolant overflow bottle...cleaned and filled...

http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss78/kenandkristine/Viper/Viper%20Club%20DIY/Coolant%20Flush/coolantoverflowbottle.jpg

[Matt M, Pa]

Thanks for all the advice guys! Here's an update.

First, I put a clamp on the small hose leading to the overflow tank.

I borrowed a pressure tester from a friend. First I tested the cap from the pressure tank. The highest pressure it would hold was 7 pounds. In fact, I couldn't even pump it up any higher than that.

Next I did a pressure test on the engine by connecting the tool to the pressure tank. Pumped to about 17PSI. This only had a slight drop...about the width of the needle on the gauge over a couple minutes.

Finally, I released the pressure from the previous check...and started the engine. Pressure slowly rose to 7PSI....then when the radiator fan turned on it was at 10PSI. When the fans turned off we were back at 7PSI.

I would expect it to go much higher if there was a head gasket problem....but I'm not an expert. The gauge needle was steady. There was of course no leakage with the pressure tester in place.

Considering the cap only held 7PSI, I'm wondering if there was a little bit of coolant getting by the cap...eventually filling the overflow tank. Now, any more recently that got by the cap came out right away.

Gonna try a new cap next...

Update...tested the cap again ...now holding at 13psi...

[Matt M, Pa]

Thanks to the Wizard!!!

I spoke with Chuck this afternoon who suggested a couple things to check and to replace the rad cap. I feel much better...and owe a huge thanks to everyone who offered advice...

[RoyV101621]

I changed my radiator cap. The my 21 year old cap failed to maintain 14 lbs. Thanks for the thread.

[Tom, F&L GoR]

There are two types of caps - one is called spring center, the other drop center. On a spring center cap, the silver dime-sized part on the wetted side is held against the rubber seal by a spring and helps ensure that when cold coolant is sucked back into the engine that there is a good liquid seal. Early cars had a drop center cap that had a similar dime-sized piece, but it was expected to seal via pressure in the block. You are better off with the newer car spring center cap.

When the engine coolant expands and pushes fluid into the overflow, if there is an air leak like Dave described, it sucks air back in. In a normal configuration, the radiator cap is the highest part of the cooling system so this air is shuttled back and forth from radiator to overflow every time you drive. In a Viper, the heater core is often the highest part, so the cap allows fluid out, the leak allows air back in, and the next drive delivers the air bubble to the heater core. The pressurized tank has coolant again, so the next time you drive, more coolant is pushed out, more air sucked in, more air stored in the heater core. After a few cycles it runs hot and you wonder where the coolant went. Get a new cap...

To monitor this, visit a home brew beer store and get 1 foot of braided, clear silicone hose. Other auto parts stores require you to buy 3 feet and charge substantially more. Install it between the heater core and coolant tube on the passenger side of the block. Silicone will easily handle the heat and with the braid, easily handle the pressure. Now you'll be able to see the colored coolant and tell if the system is full or not.

[RoyV101621]

Thanks Tom. I might try the silicone braided hose.