The LUG NUT thread!

[VIPEREPIV]

Just thought I'd start a thread on something that can tend to be overlooked on our Vipers, the lug nut. There are many options available in the tuner world, but not nearly as many in 1/2" x 20. So I did some digging and found some nice options to the boring oem chrome acorn style nut. A nice nut can really finish off a wheel!

Most everything you'll see below can be found on Amazon, some on Ebay and the TPI brand also be found on Tire Rack. Also, most of the nuts only come in 20 packs, so you'd have to purchase 2 or a separate 4 pack of locks.

*all are steel, no aluminum*


Mcgard brand, red top spline drive:
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20mcgard%20red_zpsqjf8hpyk.jpg


Mcgard brand, blue top spline drive:
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20mcgard%20blue_zps84xtfinm.jpg


Various brands, spline drive black: (standard)
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20black%20spline%20drive_zpsl3hpxyrw.jpg


Various brands, spline drive black (long):
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20black%20spline%20drive%20long_zpskspfddhe.j pg


Monster brand open end. Nice steel nuts, but the colored finishes are just ok, in case you're super anal:
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20monster%20lugs_zpse9xyvjin.jpg


TPI brand, blue. Top notch nut with swivel 60 degree taper:
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20tpi%20blue_zps8wkvcejd.jpg


TPI brand, neo. Top notch nut with swivel 60 degree taper:
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20tpi%20neo_zpsxdhtmejn.jpg


TPI brand, black. Top notch nut with swivel 60 degree taper:
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20tpi%20black_zpshox5ney9.jpg


Long necks from Parts Rack that I had powder coated in a Y'Orange. (never used and will be selling them soon)
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20yorange%20long%20necks_zpskq4llysu.jpg


These are the Monster brand open end nuts that I had powder coated in a Y'Orange.
I currently have these on my Y'Orange TA 2.0 with 3/8" spacers and Moroso long studs:
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/lugs%20powder%20coated%20open%20ended_zpss22jaacs. jpg


These are the TPI blue nuts that I currently have on my WRX:
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr55/dave7zombie/tpi%20brembo_zpsnyglyzde.jpg

[sammyv]

Very cool !

[Zybane]

I just ordered black locking lug nuts for my Hyper wheels:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-71684nbc

Thieves would really really want my wheels to take off 24 locking lugs.

[SARaptor]

opinions on aluminum? any one using them?

[VIPEREPIV]

opinions on aluminum? any one using them?

I too would like to hear some "personal experiences", however, for certain things they can be hard to come by.


I did find a post from a Subaru forum made by a someone that had logged over 11,000 posts back in 2011:

"Aluminum (and titanium) lug nuts were originally a racing derived application to keep weight off of the car, especially un-sprung rotating weight. Since the life cycle of a racing lug nut is very low (often 1 race or 1 pit stop) any kind of galvanic corrosion, fatigue, thread stripping is deemed negligible in that application. For the street however, I've never really seen the point in running them as there are a lot of things to watch out for (risks).

* Be wary of imitators and knock off lug nuts from China. There is a long history of shiesty materials practices.
* I would not run cheap non-reputable alloy lug nuts on my car, not worth my life to save 4oz a wheel.

You can get corrosion between the steel and aluminum especially if used in a salty environment like the ocean/coast or the snow. Aluminum while it does not rust, does corrode in these circumstances. (I see it every day in our fleet)

Other issues to watch for:

---Galling/stripping of threads. If you use an alloy lug nut be wary and adhere to torquing sequences and torque specs. Over torquing here can be your demise.
---Cross threading an alloy lug nut is very easy
---Inspect the lug nuts after each removal/ try to minimize removal
---Keep spares on hand

If you have a bolt and nut of the exact same material type and hardness (i.e. grade 5 nut and bolt), achieving full strength requires very few threads.

With dissimilar materials and 1 being softer or less hard than the other, achieving full strength requires a lot longer thread engagement or more threads.

I recently had to calculate thread engagement area for full strength of 2 dissimilar steels....I enjoyed life much more when I was ignorant"


And I might add, what he states ^^^ about aluminum to steel makes sense. I personally don't put aluminum valve stem caps on steel valve stem threads... they can seize up.

[MBG2.0]

I've run titanium lug nuts before...loved them...uber light..
Between sessions at the track I almost never had to re torque my wheels as these bad boys didn't ever back back down.
Had them for 2 years..they did scuff up a little , but nothing big.
Haven't been able to find any like this for my viper.

[triblk6spd]

I think Tikore makes a set. I had them on my Gallardo and 997TT....top of the line but really expensive.

http://www.tikore.com/dodge-viper-titanium-closed-ended-lug-nuts/

[MBG2.0]

Just found a place by the name of ti64.com
They have our lug in titanium..should be about $250 a set
Should shed bout 4 to 6 ounces off per wheel..plus look a little better.

[VIPEREPIV]

Just found a place by the name of ti64.com
They have our lug in titanium..should be about $250 a set
Should shed bout 4 to 6 ounces off per wheel..plus look a little better.

Just finished looking at their site... very nice products. I did notice a 20 pack for $220, however this was the only selection without a pic and no length was given in the description.

Going to email or call them this week.

[Jack B]

Would i use aluminum lug nuts, no, but, it is hard to make the practice of mixing aluminum and steel a total negative. What about steel spark plugs in aluminum heads, what about cross threading steel spark plugs in aluminum heads, what about steel studs in aluminum blocks..


I too would like to hear some "personal experiences", however, for certain things they can be hard to come by.


I did find a post from a Subaru forum made by a someone that had logged over 11,000 posts back in 2011:

"Aluminum (and titanium) lug nuts were originally a racing derived application to keep weight off of the car, especially un-sprung rotating weight. Since the life cycle of a racing lug nut is very low (often 1 race or 1 pit stop) any kind of galvanic corrosion, fatigue, thread stripping is deemed negligible in that application. For the street however, I've never really seen the point in running them as there are a lot of things to watch out for (risks).

* Be wary of imitators and knock off lug nuts from China. There is a long history of shiesty materials practices.
* I would not run cheap non-reputable alloy lug nuts on my car, not worth my life to save 4oz a wheel.

You can get corrosion between the steel and aluminum especially if used in a salty environment like the ocean/coast or the snow. Aluminum while it does not rust, does corrode in these circumstances. (I see it every day in our fleet)

Other issues to watch for:

---Galling/stripping of threads. If you use an alloy lug nut be wary and adhere to torquing sequences and torque specs. Over torquing here can be your demise.
---Cross threading an alloy lug nut is very easy
---Inspect the lug nuts after each removal/ try to minimize removal
---Keep spares on hand

If you have a bolt and nut of the exact same material type and hardness (i.e. grade 5 nut and bolt), achieving full strength requires very few threads.

With dissimilar materials and 1 being softer or less hard than the other, achieving full strength requires a lot longer thread engagement or more threads.

I recently had to calculate thread engagement area for full strength of 2 dissimilar steels....I enjoyed life much more when I was ignorant"


And I might add, what he states ^^^ about aluminum to steel makes sense. I personally don't put aluminum valve stem caps on steel valve stem threads... they can seize up.

[VIPEREPIV]

Just when I thought 100 ft. pounds of nut torque was the correct spec, it's not. According to the 2015 owners CD, it states 107 ft. pounds.

[SARaptor]

Hooked up on the ti64 lugs, seem to be good quality, but have not put on car. I will update with impression once installed.

[Stealth]

I have black Gorrilla Lugs on my Black Sidewinder II wheels for my 2014 Bumblebee GTS and they seem great. I also have 1 black locking lug per wheel.

[Arizona Vipers]

Hooked up on the ti64 lugs, seem to be good quality, but have not put on car. I will update with impression once installed.

It's a long shot that you'll see this post after a year, but are these the ones you got- http://www.ti64.com/product-p/5122.htm
Anyone else have these?

[wrh3]

I bought Gorilla: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00280CTHW

[SARaptor]

It's a long shot that you'll see this post after a year, but are these the ones you got- http://www.ti64.com/product-p/5122.htm
Anyone else have these?

that is them. very happy with them.

[donk_316]

Procomp black tire lug kit. Cheapest and strongest I have found.

[ACR Steve]

Un sprung weight is big- I would consider a set of titanium only issue with the Ti64 the look short and open end

[Arizona Vipers]

Un sprung weight is big- I would consider a set of titanium only issue with the Ti64 the look short and open end

Open ended is better for the track as it let's more heat out of they brakes. This is what SRT (Winkler, Tom O'dell) etc told us at a Viper event.

[Dr.Ron]

Open ended is better for the track as it let's more heat out of they brakes. This is what SRT (Winkler, Tom O'dell) etc told us at a Viper event.

Anyone know of any decent openends for track use only?
Link?

Ron

[Tay]

Anyone know of any decent openends for track use only?
Link?

Ron

There's really only three options and they're all good options. Take your pick. Unfortunately, you will have to buy two packs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KMAC2PE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=25PGAJPJO5X1F&coliid=I2DUAAXYDGARU5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SF8FA9U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=25PGAJPJO5X1F&coliid=IYV5Z9G1Y5PBE&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKFBFS6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=25PGAJPJO5X1F&coliid=I21QBWG0NCM82H

[Dr.Ron]

Thanks Tay! There's none that are shorter?

[Viper Girl]

moved to the correct forum

[LmeaViper]

Another option...I got mine from Jon at Parts Rack (matte black).

[Tay]

Thanks Tay! There's none that are shorter?

Unfortunately, the 1/2" size is not as common as the 1.5 and 1.25 size. On tap of that, you want open ended and forged steel for track use. Those three are literally the only ones I could find after searching for a while.

[Dr.Ron]

Unfortunately, the 1/2" size is not as common as the 1.5 and 1.25 size. On tap of that, you want open ended and forged steel for track use. Those three are literally the only ones I could find after searching for a while.

You went above and beyond my friend!
I'm waiting for my reverse light bulbs to be delivered by the way. ; )

[Tay]

You went above and beyond my friend!
I'm waiting for my reverse light bulbs to be delivered by the way. ; )

My pleasure Ron! Let know what you think of the lights.

[Arizona Vipers]

Why was this moved to "tire wheel suspension" forum, when there are literally 100's of threads on the Gen 5 forum just dealing specifically about tires? Or wheels?

[Viper Girl]

All threads dealing with tires wheels and suspension should be here

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Another option...I got mine from Jon at Parts Rack (matte black).

In Stock, Satin (matte) Powdercoated, and we give you 25 in a set = 1 extra ! OE Lugnuts are 2pc cheap, rattly crap !

[sadil]

I have never bought replacement wheel studs or lugs.

The open lugs look interesting. Anyone confirm that the TI64 lugs were correct length?

Any guidance regarding size and type of studs to buy to use on the viper would be beneficial.

Was thinking of running 9-11 mm spacers on the street and then removing them if I went to the track.