Speakers

[ViperPete]

Hey yall

I have a 2013 GTS. I don't think it has the upgraded stereo system. Anyway, to me the sound quality is severely below par. The speakers cannot produce mids very well and I get a lot of weird distortion.

Can anyone chime in on their sound quality please? I am thinking of taking the car to the dealer tomorrow and see if they agree with me and try and get these speakers replaced.

Thanks

Peter

[ViperSmith]

how are you playing music? Via bluetooth, USB, or SD Card?

[ViperPete]

Blutooth and/or USB cable. Sound quality doesn't change. iphone 6 if that makes a difference.

I have upgraded every car stereo I have ever owned. I don't want to do this car. I don't want to take anything apart. I want the car to stay stock as long as possible. Otherwise, once I start modding- it wont stop. It always happens the same with me and my cars. I open up the can of worms and that's it.... no going back lol.

[gpearl]

If you were to take the speakers out and just look at them, you'd understand why the sound underwhelms you. They're probably about as robust as coffee filters, if they're the typical OEM. I bet even modestly priced speakers (and a good amp to drive them if you can afford it) would make a huge difference.

[ViperPete]

If you were to take the speakers out and just look at them, you'd understand why the sound underwhelms you. They're probably about as robust as coffee filters, if they're the typical OEM. I bet even modestly priced speakers (and a good amp to drive them if you can afford it) would make a huge difference.

I have thought about that. I love the way Infinity Kappa speakers sound like. I've built 6 vehicles with them- amped up and everything. I wonder where I would even install an amp? What kind of RMS wattage per channel does the factory amp produce? Infinity speakers need power to sound good.

[gpearl]

I have thought about that. I love the way Infinity Kappa speakers sound like. I've built 6 vehicles with them- amped up and everything. I wonder where I would even install an amp? What kind of RMS wattage per channel does the factory amp produce? Infinity speakers need power to sound good.

I don't think there is any point in putting in decent speakers and having them driven by the factory amp, which is going to be equally as cheap as the speakers. I'm not a DIY guy but an installer will find a suitable place for the amp, you may need to sacrifice a bit of room in the back hatch area.

[ViperSmith]

Your issue will be the UConnect system. You may want to check jeep forums or the like to see how a well supported platform tweaks their sound system. I know with the Viper they have to run a software patch to go from 12 speakers to 18 at a dealer.

Id think you could swap out components when you have it working but with what is the real question.

I upgraded from 12 to 18 myself and while better still not amazing. Bass doesn't vibrate your soul like it should :)

[ViperPete]

Your issue will be the UConnect system. You may want to check jeep forums or the like to see how a well supported platform tweaks their sound system. I know with the Viper they have to run a software patch to go from 12 speakers to 18 at a dealer.

Id think you could swap out components when you have it working but with what is the real question.

I upgraded from 12 to 18 myself and while better still not amazing. Bass doesn't vibrate your soul like it should :)

I don't need it to vibrate anything in its current form. I can add a sub without issue. What I want is crisp sound from the mids and highs- distortion-free sound.

It's a shame that the factory stereo is so blah. The Uconnect is such a nice looking system and it is a easy to operate.

[gpearl]

I don't need it to vibrate anything in its current form. I can add a sub without issue. What I want is crisp sound from the mids and highs- distortion-free sound.

It's a shame that the factory stereo is so blah. The Uconnect is such a nice looking system and it is a easy to operate.

I've never heard a factory system that comes close to a decent aftermarket system. Leaving the head unit/UConnect is a compromise but it would be way cheaper, it won't affect any of the functionality and replacing the speakers and amp will make a huge difference. You may need an interface to connect to the factory system but I bet you won't because the amp is downstream.

[ViperPete]

I've never heard a factory system that comes close to a decent aftermarket system. Leaving the head unit/UConnect is a compromise but it would be way cheaper, it won't affect any of the functionality and replacing the speakers and amp will make a huge difference. You may need an interface to connect to the factory system but I bet you won't because the amp is downstream.

It's not going to be an "if" it seems like, more like a "when". I don't like the factory stereo if that's what they all sound like. My Maxima with the Bose surround system is quite good for a factory system.

I guess now I gotta find out what the speaker sizes are, maximum depth of the factory mounting/enclosures...etc..

Thanks though.

[1.8t]

My TA didn't come with the upgraded system as that was not an option with the TA package. However, I did upgrade to the 18 speaker system through the MOPAR upgrade kit. While it certainly sounded better than the base system, it wasn't as nice of an improvement as I was lead to believe. The factory Mark Levinson system in my Lexus sounds far nicer than the upgraded system in my Viper. It's a Viper though, so high quality tunes(while nice) aren't why I bought the car.

[gpearl]

It's not going to be an "if" it seems like, more like a "when". I don't like the factory stereo if that's what they all sound like. My Maxima with the Bose surround system is quite good for a factory system.

I guess now I gotta find out what the speaker sizes are, maximum depth of the factory mounting/enclosures...etc..

Thanks though.

If you're going to do it yourself crotchfeel may know (crutchfield.com). Else take it to a reputable car stereo place, I'm sure there will be a lot of options.

[darbgnik]

I think you'll need a significant upgrade to outshine the cars acoustics. My car has the 12 speaker system(I can only 5...), and I thought it was very underwhelming, until, one day I was listening to a song I liked as I pulled into the garage, and shut the car off, while leaving the stereo on. I was surprised by the amount of midbass the car had. But was even more surprised by the fact that when the car is running, you can't hear any of it. A ton of cancellation.

[gpearl]

That's where a multichannel amp comes into play, and potentially a processor. A car's environment is a hostile place for harmonics, but it can all be overcome.

[Steve M]

My TA didn't come with the upgraded system as that was not an option with the TA package. However, I did upgrade to the 18 speaker system through the MOPAR upgrade kit. While it certainly sounded better than the base system, it wasn't as nice of an improvement as I was lead to believe. The factory Mark Levinson system in my Lexus sounds far nicer than the upgraded system in my Viper. It's a Viper though, so high quality tunes(while nice) aren't why I bought the car.

For some reason, this doesn't surprise me. Sound quality is highly subjective - I'd rather hear something with my own ears than trust someone else's opinion.


I think you'll need a significant upgrade to outshine the cars acoustics. My car has the 12 speaker system(I can only 5...), and I thought it was very underwhelming, until, one day I was listening to a song I liked as I pulled into the garage, and shut the car off, while leaving the stereo on. I was surprised by the amount of midbass the car had. But was even more surprised by the fact that when the car is running, you can't hear any of it. A ton of cancellation.

You hit on the primary issue: with the engine running, the Viper interior is a horrible environment for reproducing music. The V-10 with the side exhaust adds a huge amount of bass all by itself, and that is incredibly hard (if not impossible) to overcome. Throw in the cramped cockpit, and you have a recipe for disaster. I have some pretty decent stereo equipment in my Gen 4 - new head unit, dedicated, multi-channel amp running component speakers (mids in the doors + tweeters in the dash, no rear fill) + a 10" sub in the hatch. I can certainly make it loud, but high quality sound? Not so much.

The Viper is not and never will be an audiophile's platform of choice for sound quality.

[ViperPete]

I am sure the small interior has a lot to do with the sound.

I also own a SRT10 quad cab ram with B&B long-tubes and a Magnaflow cat back. The truck is significantly louder than the Viper. Last summer I installed Infinity Kappa components in each door, 3.5" in the dash and 2 10" subs under the rear seats. All amped up, the volume of those speakers drowns out the entire world. WOT in every gear and all. SO I know that power to the speakers can overcome anything.

I've got a system in my Avenger that is 5k RMS watts. Long-tube headers- true duals- its loud and the stereo overcomes the engine also. I know it's possible, just have to find the right balance I guess.

I do admit that I massively enjoy a good sounding stereo system. I'm not going to be driving the Viper at WOT more than 2% of the time I'm driving the car- so a stereo is very important.

[Russ Oasis]

One of the problems with the Gen V audio system is that they didn't re-equalize the system for the various audio sources. In other words, FM sounds one way and plays at one level while Sirius / XM sounds completely different and is at a lower (quieter) level. The best audio is when you use a blue tooth or usb connection to your iPhone. THAT'S when the system sounds its best. The factory needed to compensate for the different input levels, which they never did. So, while the music from your iPhone can blow your socks off, the music from Sirius XM can't be turned up very loud. Also, whats with the sound system automatically turning on every time you start the car?

[rlhay2]

In my car the bluetooth audio sounds tinny and attenuated.
USB sounds MUCH better!
But you are correct about the volume being related to signal source.

[viper04]

ViperPeter do you have the Harman Kardon system in the car? I though all GTS with the laguna interior came with the Harman Kardon system called "GreenEdge" in the 13's. Here is a link from SRT on the Harman Kardon system.
http://www.drivesrt.com/news/2013/08/video-with-speed-comes-clarity.html

[ViperPete]

ViperPeter do you have the Harman Kardon system in the car? I though all GTS with the laguna interior came with the Harman Kardon system called "GreenEdge" in the 13's. Here is a link from SRT on the Harman Kardon system.
http://www.drivesrt.com/news/2013/08/video-with-speed-comes-clarity.html

According to Bill Pemberton and Viper Jeff, my car does not have the upgraded system.

According to the director at the Viper plant, my Viper was the original 1 of 1. None else like it.

[viper04]

Interesting!! Thanks for the reply.

[gpearl]

The V-10 with the side exhaust adds a huge amount of bass all by itself, and that is incredibly hard (if not impossible) to overcome.
The Viper is not and never will be an audiophile's platform of choice for sound quality.

I intend to put this to the test. This car will be my daily driver.

[LmeaViper]

I have the upgraded stereo in my car and I was taken back by how good the stereo seemed to me......way better than the Sony in my truck. I have bass on 3 or so and it is ball shaking already and more than is needed (in my opinion). I wouldn't have expected there to be that much difference between the standard stereo and the upgraded one.

[95BlackZ28]

It sounds to me You defiantly don't have the upgraded sound system. I have a very similar car to yours, 2013 GTS, GTS blue with no stripes, Sepia interior but I have the harmon 18 speaker "greenedge" system. This was the only option for me that was non-negotiable.

I'm a complete hi-fi audiofile. I've spent way too much money over the years upgrading stereos in various cars, and don't get me started on my home audio.....

I must say the Viper stereo is impressive. It's almost as good as the stereo in my M5, which to me is the gold standard for factory audio in a vehicle. Sorry to hear you're not happy, looks like you
may have to upgrade with some aftermarket equipment, as I've heard the conversion to the Green Edge Harmon system can be a disaster.

[ViperPete]

I went to the Dodge dealer yesterday. I didn't have time to stay but the service advisor and I played some music together and he agreed.... it sounds like both mid-door speakers are distorting like hell.

I'll take the car back when I can and try and get them replaced.

[Rapidrezults]

I had a small JL 8" woofer installed in the back, bolted to the removable access panel. I can take it out for track days (weight savings) and it fills in quite a bit of the lacking bass and mids. My installer did a great job and added an adjustable sub volume knob on the cup holder. It definitely sounds good enough considering a lot of the quality of the sound is drowned out by the exhaust note. A couple pics...

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm163/rapidrezults/2015-05/56FC98D3-0416-47F4-86AF-0F42E5E7C605_zpsbm4tr9fq.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/rapidrezults/media/2015-05/56FC98D3-0416-47F4-86AF-0F42E5E7C605_zpsbm4tr9fq.jpg.html)

Volume control knob...

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm163/rapidrezults/2015-05/9A8FB991-C842-4950-8506-FAB4E00A5A0B_zpsio328awi.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/rapidrezults/media/2015-05/9A8FB991-C842-4950-8506-FAB4E00A5A0B_zpsio328awi.jpg.html)

[ViperPete]

That's a nice clean install! I was thinking of having a custom enclosure made to go in the passenger side "pocket" in the trunk area.

[Malu59RT]

I've heard a factory 12 speaker system, as well as my personal 18 speaker system. There is no comparison between the two. I am also inclined to believe that the 12 to 18 speaker stereo upgrade that you can buy, still doesn't sound as good as the factory 18 speaker system, based on the feedback in this thread. I have a Mark Levinson system in both of my Lexuses (Lexi?), and I would put my 18 speaker up against them any day. This is through USB/Bluetooth, not through the FM or XM options.

[Victxv10]

I've heard a factory 12 speaker system, as well as my personal 18 speaker system. There is no comparison between the two. I am also inclined to believe that the 12 to 18 speaker stereo upgrade that you can buy, still doesn't sound as good as the factory 18 speaker system, based on the feedback in this thread. I have a Mark Levinson system in both of my Lexuses (Lexi?), and I would put my 18 speaker up against them any day. This is through USB/Bluetooth, not through the FM or XM options.

I agree, my factory 18 in the GTS sounds pretty good!!

[ViperPete]

Is the wiring harness the same for the 12 and 18 speaker systems? Is the amplifier the same? Maybe I can just buy all the speakers and plug them in?

[95BlackZ28]

Is the wiring harness the same for the 12 and 18 speaker systems? Is the amplifier the same? Maybe I can just buy all the speakers and plug them in?

No you defiantly cannot. Not an option. The wiring/amp and head unit are all different. I looked into this extensively before purchasing my Viper.
A guy on another forum tried to do the upgrade with his TA and it did't work out-
Sorry for the bad news

[Victxv10]

No you defiantly cannot. Not an option. The wiring/amp and head unit are all different. I looked into this extensively before purchasing my Viper.
A guy on another forum tried to do the upgrade with his TA and it did't work out-
Sorry for the bad news

ViperPete has a GTS so the harness is probably in there.

[ViperSmith]

No you defiantly cannot. Not an option. The wiring/amp and head unit are all different. I looked into this extensively before purchasing my Viper.
A guy on another forum tried to do the upgrade with his TA and it did't work out-
Sorry for the bad news

Not sure that this is correct. The wiring is all in place - I did the upgrade last month. The missing piece is the dealer has to enable it software wise.

[ViperPete]

Not sure that this is correct. The wiring is all in place - I did the upgrade last month. The missing piece is the dealer has to enable it software wise.

Do you happen to have pictures of what you did?

[ViperSmith]

Do you happen to have pictures of what you did?

it was the mopar kit, i have a picture of the door off but that is about it

[95BlackZ28]

Oh sorry about the misinformation... come to think of it the guy who had troubles had TA...

[darbgnik]

My car has a socked off wiring harness near the factory amplifier, I had assumed it might be for the stereo, but I don't know...... If it was, you'd probably have to replace the amplifier with one with more channels? Not that I'm inclined.... Adding a small 8 or 10 inch sub in the cubby on the drivers side seems a lot easier, seeing as audio source and battery power are all right there in the trunk.

[ViperSmith]

All the wiring is there, 4 small speakers they can charge $2000 for as a factory option is some sweet profit.

[cashcorn]

Is it possible to just add the upper door speakers? That's really all I want..

[ViperPete]

Hmmmm. So this may be a lot easier than I thought. All I really want are those door speakers replaced and some bass. I could have an enclosure fabbed up pretty easily for a 10" sub in the passenger side of the trunk.

[ViperSmith]

Is it possible to just add the upper door speakers? That's really all I want..

Yes and honestly they helped out a lot, subs not so much. You don't need the firmware update to run the speakers in the door.

[ViperPete]

Yes and honestly they helped out a lot, subs not so much. You don't need the firmware update to run the speakers in the door.

So I really have no idea what the difference between the 12 and the 18 speaker systems are. Can someone post some pics of the differences? That would help me a bunch.

[cashcorn]

ViperSmith, would you go with oem upper door speakers or aftermarket? pull the door panel or just the blank cover and then plug in?

[ViperSmith]

Cash corn - I can't make a recommendation because I don't know. Id assume aftermarket could be superior. All you really need would be the speaker grill and be good to go. I assume the plugs are standard but then again I could be wrong :)

ViperPete - oddly, the 12 speaker upgrade includes 3 subs, 2 door speakers, and the center dash speaker

You don't need the center dash or one sub.

I don't get how 2 subs and 2 speakers gets you from 12 soeakers to 18 - fuzzy math!

The kit includes the grill mesh for the door and center dash (but again not needed). That's really all there is to the kit.

[cashcorn]

OK, I'm going to try & just order the speaker grills for the upper door & maybe the speakers after I shop the aftermarket size. Big help ViperSmith. thanks!

[SRT BILL]

Hey guys I've read recently that they get from 12 to 18 speakers by using dual mode speakers which are counted as two speakers each...

[Voice of Reason]

OK, I'm going to try & just order the speaker grills for the upper door & maybe the speakers after I shop the aftermarket size. Big help ViperSmith. thanks!

Please post the part numbers and price if you are able to track them down. I'd like to do the door speakers as well, if for nothing else than it will help my OCD of seeing those blasted cover plates every time I'm in the car knowing something else should be there. Ha!

[ViperSmith]

Hey guys I've read recently that they get from 12 to 18 speakers by using dual mode speakers which are counted as two speakers each...

makes sense!

- - - Updated - - -


Please post the part numbers and price if you are able to track them down. I'd like to do the door speakers as well, if for nothing else than it will help my OCD of seeing those blasted cover plates every time I'm in the car knowing something else should be there. Ha!

Just amazing it is a $1995 factory option you can get for $500 aftermarket. lmao

[Voice of Reason]

Just amazing it is a $1995 factory option you can get for $500 aftermarket. lmao

It makes me think the real 18 setup has completely different designed speakers and/or amps. Because otherwise you're exactly right!

[darbgnik]

Yes and honestly they helped out a lot, subs not so much. You don't need the firmware update to run the speakers in the door.


So you added factory speakers in the upper door location by the door handle, and they worked? Without any other change?

I'm with the OCD guy, I'd add them to not look at a blank plate. lol

[ViperSmith]

It makes me think the real 18 setup has completely different designed speakers and/or amps. Because otherwise you're exactly right!

From what I understand they are the same as the HK, which wouldn't surprise me.

- - - Updated - - -


So you added factory speakers in the upper door location by the door handle, and they worked? Without any other change?

I'm with the OCD guy, I'd add them to not look at a blank plate. lol

Yes they work without the firmware upgrade, the subs need the firmware to work, strange isn't it...

[Zybane]

It makes me think the real 18 setup has completely different designed speakers and/or amps. Because otherwise you're exactly right!

I think the amp and all speakers may be better versions with the from-factory 18 speaker system. Can anyone confirm?

[darbgnik]

I find the factory door speaker in my 12 speaker system tries really hard to produce bass, which is basically cancelled out by the exhaust, this is the only car where I have ever turned the bass down well below the flat line.....

[dasvolk]

The harman/kardon system going in the 2015s sounds incredible compared to the one in the 2014/2013 models.

[ViperPete]

My dash has 3 speakers. Left center and right. Well... at least the speaker grilles are there. SO I can't imaging where they'd put another center speaker...

[Zybane]

The harman/kardon system going in the 2015s sounds incredible compared to the one in the 2014/2013 models.

2015's have a different system? I wonder if that system will end up in my 2015 TA 2.0. Or is that just a GTS thing?

[ViperPete]

Is anybody from this thread going to the dinner in Orlando on Wednesday evening by chance?

[viper04]

The harman/kardon system going in the 2015s sounds incredible compared to the one in the 2014/2013 models.
Can you fill us in on what is different between the two system , what changes were made?

[unomas78]

Is anybody from this thread going to the dinner in Orlando on Wednesday evening by chance?

I'll be there, and I've got the 18 speaker system if you want to check it out and compare.

Although I have to say that as awesome as the sound system may be with the engine off, the mids still get drowned out when the car is running. That's OK with me though, I prefer the sound of the engine to anything on the radio anyway! :o

[LmeaViper]

Scratching my head here....everyone keeps saying 18 speaker upgraded stereo. However, the window sticker copy I got of my Cdn GTS says 19 speaker SRT High Perf Audio...$1000.

What gives?

[Voice of Reason]

It takes your 19 speakers to equal our 18. It's an exchange rate thing.

[LmeaViper]

It takes your 19 speakers to equal our 18. It's an exchange rate thing.

LOL...and there you have "THE VOICE OF REASON".

[viper04]

LOL...and there you have "THE VOICE OF REASON".
LOL! you guys are so silly, but funny.

[ViperPete]

Scratching my head here....everyone keeps saying 18 speaker upgraded stereo. However, the window sticker copy I got of my Cdn GTS says 19 speaker SRT High Perf Audio...$1000.

What gives?

I have noticed quite a few typos on descriptions with these cars...Phantom CD players, Optical drives that play CD's, or Compact Disc players. I don't think anyone truly knows how many speakers are in a Viper.

12 speaker system, 18 speaker system, 19 speaker system- single speakers that are counted twice, single speakers that are counted 7 times (46 speaker system)... I've never heard of dual stage speakers. It's got power or it doesn't... I don't get it.

I have heard that SRT is going to route some exhaust noise to some baffles under the dash so that the exhaust drone moves the voice coil and woofer. Supposed to save weight and increase cabin temps in the winter... and summer. Ideal for race cars. Gotta let that engine cool off whenever possible, even at the expense of the drivers oxygen intake.

But in all seriousness unomas78.... yes! I would LOVE to hear your stereo in comparison to mine.

[darbgnik]

Some good info in this thread:

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6200-Speaker-upgrade-kit-installed-on-my-TA

[darbgnik]

Can you fill us in on what is different between the two system , what changes were made?

I think the big difference on the 2015s is that they came with the 12 speaker system as the base option, not a 9 speaker system. So you could buy the upgrade kit for the 2015 but you end up with an extra center channel and a couple extra "subs"......

[ViperPete]

Maybe in the morning I'll turn on the radio, and see what speakers actually produce something. I haven't checked and now I am really curious.

I looked behind the drivers seat and didn't see anything. I'll check again and also behind the pass seat to be sure.

[Zybane]

The speakers on my TA 2.0 definitely don't sound anywhere near as good as my 19-speaker H/K setup in my Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit. Going to have to upgrade these babies! The question is, will going with the MOPAR upgrade kit do the trick or do I need to look elsewhere?

[darbgnik]

Maybe in the morning I'll turn on the radio, and see what speakers actually produce something. I haven't checked and now I am really curious.

I looked behind the drivers seat and didn't see anything. I'll check again and also behind the pass seat to be sure.

You wont see anything, and you will feel the spaces where the speakers may be, you'll have to play music and feel for what you have under there.


The speakers on my TA 2.0 definitely don't sound anywhere near as good as my 19-speaker H/K setup in my Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit. Going to have to upgrade these babies! The question is, will going with the MOPAR upgrade kit do the trick or do I need to look elsewhere?

Best to find a car with the 18 speakers and have a listen. I've priced out just the door tweeters and the grilles, and it would be cheaper to buy the kit, and have some left over pieces, than buying a piece at a time...... at least in Canadian prices anyway.

[gpearl]

Best to find a car with the 18 speakers and have a listen. I've priced out just the door tweeters and the grilles, and it would be cheaper to buy the kit, and have some left over pieces, than buying a piece at a time...... at least in Canadian prices anyway.[/QUOTE]


It depends on what you want to do. I can't imagine why you would want to replace 18 speakers, or however many there are. For $2000, you could get an amp, a sub and 3 way comps and run a front stage. I bet the difference with the factory stereo would be night and day.

[darbgnik]

Or for 600 bucks shipped CDN you can try out the 18 speaker stereo, using all the existing wiring that is in the car.

I get it, I used to rip all the stereo equipment out of every vehicle I bought, and replace it all with high end gear, rewire everything, hide crossovers all over the place.....

Now if the stereo is acceptable-ish, I just leave it alone. With the amount of vehicle integration most new audio systems have, it's next to impossible to remove the head unit, which is the most important building block of a moderately high end stereo. Sure you can add processors, tune the car to within an inch of its life, add 3 way components and subs, but with most, you still cannot counteract the internal tuning changes taking place inside OEM head units based on volume and other inputs. It's hard to hit a moving target.

By the way, I am relatively pleased with the 12 speaker stereo in my 15, which actually sounds surpirisingly good, until you start the car, which cancels out a lot of it. I only looked down the speaker upgrade path when I noticed there were blank plates in my doors. lol

[viper04]

I think the big difference on the 2015s is that they came with the 12 speaker system as the base option, not a 9 speaker system. So you could buy the upgrade kit for the 2015 but you end up with an extra center channel and a couple extra "subs"......

So no difference between the 13-15 H/K system? I can't find any info online saying there was any changes or difference?

[darbgnik]

So no difference between the 13-15 H/K system? I can't find any info online saying there was any changes or difference?

If you have the 18 speaker system in any year, I think they are the same, the only difference in 2015 was that there wasn't a 9 speaker base, only a 12 speaker. If you have a 12 speaker of any year it will be the same, and an 18 speaker from any year will be the same.

[roadrunner]

The amplifier is the same for all three versions of the audio system. However the channel assignments and EQ are setup for a particular package. So just plugging in the "missing" speakers does not give you what you want. The Mopar 18 speaker upgrade kit adds the missing drivers, and use the dealer tools to set the EQ and channel enables.

Keep in mind that they are counting "co-axial" speakers as 2 speakers. For instance the center dash speaker is two as it has a mid and a tweeter in the same hole.

The original "base" system which was sales code:
RC9 has 9 speakers
2 dash tweeters
2 door woofer
2(4 drivers) co-axial trunk fills
1 6x9 bass

From there:
RC5 has 12 speakers
2 dash tweeters
1(2 drivers) co-axial center dash
2 door woofer
2(4 drivers) co-axial trunk fills
2 6x9 bass

The top system:
RCA has 18 speakers
2 dash tweeters
1(2 drivers) co-axial center dash
2 door woofer
2(4 drivers) door trim co-axials
2(4 drivers) co-axial trunk fills
4 6x9 bass

[SRT BILL]

Nice info Roadrunner. I have the RC5 in my GTS, do you have any idea how much is involved installing the 18 speaker update?

[ViperSmith]

Nice info Roadrunner. I have the RC5 in my GTS, do you have any idea how much is involved installing the 18 speaker update?

It isnt difficult. Hardest part is just going to the dealer and them running the update in the computer.

[ViperPete]

I have 9 total speakers on my car.
3 in the dash that fire
1 in each door that are FULL of distortion and vibrations
1 speaker behind each seat
2 smallish speakers in the rear hatch.

The stereo will sound much better once I get those door speakers replaced.

I am also thinking about adding a 8" or 10" sub in the passenger side rear hatch cubby area if those door speakers don't perform how I think they should.

So can I add the upper door speakers without having to reprogram anything?

[gpearl]

I have 9 total speakers on my car.
3 in the dash that fire
1 in each door that are FULL of distortion and vibrations
1 speaker behind each seat
2 smallish speakers in the rear hatch.

The stereo will sound much better once I get those door speakers replaced.

I am also thinking about adding a 8" or 10" sub in the passenger side rear hatch cubby area if those door speakers don't perform how I think they should.

So can I add the upper door speakers without having to reprogram anything?

If you're thinking of a sub, have a look at JL Audio. They make shallow mount drivers that I think would be perfect, preserve space and sound great.

[ViperPete]

If you're thinking of a sub, have a look at JL Audio. They make shallow mount drivers that I think would be perfect, preserve space and sound great.

Yeah the sub doesn't need to be gigantic or anything. I've got 2 Rockford Fosgate T2 12"s in my Avenger and they are beyond overkill.

I had a pair of Sundown Audio SA 8" subs and they were huge little subs. But I sold them. I should have kept one though for this. Oh well. Hindsight is 20/20.

[gpearl]

Yeah the sub doesn't need to be gigantic or anything. I've got 2 Rockford Fosgate T2 12"s in my Avenger and they are beyond overkill.

I had a pair of Sundown Audio SA 8" subs and they were huge little subs. But I sold them. I should have kept one though for this. Oh well. Hindsight is 20/20.

The JL's aren't cheap, but they will rock the inside of the car. If you want to listen to the engine, you can keep the stereo off and do that. If you are stuck in stop and go traffic like I am sometimes on my daily commute and I want to listen to the stereo, the sound will be loud and crisp, no matter whether the car is on or off.

[SRT BILL]

great idea to add a 8 or 10'' sub in that small cubby. Any idea on how to power it? and does it need some kind of switching or volume control?

[ViperPete]

great idea to add a 8 or 10'' sub in that small cubby. Any idea on how to power it? and does it need some kind of switching or volume control?

With the battery being right in the trunk there truly is minimal wiring.
I can tap into the factory system's signal using one of the 6x9" speakers behind the passenger seat.

Really easy wiring.

I have built a lot of systems and this will likely be the easiest. I've got a left over inverter from my wife's car that converts regular speaker wires from a factory amp into a pair of RCA cables and a Remote turn on wire- that way an aftermarket amplifier will produce the same exact signals that were going to that speaker- turn off and on just like a factory amplifier. I have used the same exact thing to add subs to both my Acura TL's and my wife's Mazda 3.

I just have to have an enclosure fabricated for the subwoofer. Thinking fiberglass so it's light weight.

[SRT BILL]

Pete, on the JLAudio site they have several 10" subs with enclosure and amp combos. Would they be a possibility in this application?

[ViperPete]

Pete, on the JLAudio site they have several 10" subs with enclosure and amp combos. Would they be a possibility in this application?

I haven't checked what they offer.

I will say that I am 99% sure that a sub will need a custom fabricated enclosure. You're gonna need a reputable shop to help with your install.

Even with me i'll pay to have an enclosure built...I hate working with fiberglass.

I am sure that the specific sub doesn't really make that much of a difference. Subs have come a long way since I first started messing with stereos in 2001. You don't need anything really huge to make a good sound, and with our interiors being so small- a large sub won't perform that well anyway.

I'll likely go with an 8" sub.

[Zybane]

Could you guys confirm that 82213535 will work with 2015's? The MOPAR site I'm ordering from says it doesn't "fit" for 2015's but I'm sure it does eh?

[ViperSmith]

it does. there is an issue with the firmware though that they may have resolved by now. when they ran the firmware update on my car, it disabled all the airbags :)

[Zybane]

Hmm, ya I don't want to install everything if there is problems.

[ViperPete]

Brought it to the dealer yesterday. They ordered door speakers and weather stripping for the drivers side front.

[darbgnik]

So I got the speaker upgrade kit in the mail today. Sounds quite good, even with only the new door tweeters working.

A couple points for guys with 2015 Vipers, as the instructions are for 2013's....

There is an extra bolt holding the door panel on the top rear edge. It is hidden under the "SRS Airbag" badge. Just pry it off and remove the bolt. Took me quite a bit of pulling and screwing with it before I figured that out.......... (not sure if 2014s have these or not)

The instructions show the door trim coming off in two pieces, and having to remove a Phillips head screw. My car has these pieces plastic welded together, with no screw present. There is also a stud under the dash that the front of the door trim slides into. Once you see it, it'll be self explanatory. (not sure again if this is pertinent to 2014s)

You don't have to completely remove the door panels, just pull them off and let them hang, the 2015s have straps to hold the door up in the middle. You also don't have to remove the trim piece that holds the speaker grille from the door panel, to swap the blank for the grille, the grille can be removed from the door panel with the panel still wired to the car, and with the door trim still in the door.

On the 12 speaker system, you still need the update for the extra "subs" to work, but the door speakers work plug and play.

I still haven't installed the extra "sub" behind the drivers seat, as I already have the seat lowering bracket installed, so I'm assuming it'll be a bitch.

[gpearl]

A word of caution. I'm having my car worked on right now. The installer called me yesterday and said when he removed the 6 X 9's behind the seats he could see the outside. He didn't think it would be wise to replace those speakers, unless you were using exactly the same size.

I'm getting my car back tomorrow with new tweeters in the dash and mids in the door, with sound deadening. Everything else will be the same. Stage 2 will be the sub, amp and processor.

[ViperPete]

A word of caution. I'm having my car worked on right now. The installer called me yesterday and said when he removed the 6 X 9's behind the seats he could see the outside. He didn't think it would be wise to replace those speakers, unless you were using exactly the same size.

I'm getting my car back tomorrow with new tweeters in the dash and mids in the door, with sound deadening. Everything else will be the same. Stage 2 will be the sub, amp and processor.

Could see the outside?

A pic would be helpful. I also will add more sound deadening.

[ViperDog]

How are you doing the sound deadening?

[gpearl]

Dynamat, hushmat or some other sound deadening materials to line the doors. In this case, it's more to prevent the door from rattling.

[ViperPete]

Dynamat, hushmat or some other sound deadening materials to line the doors. In this case, it's more to prevent the door from rattling.

Id love to remove the seats and carpets and do the floorpan too.

[darbgnik]

Could see the outside?

A pic would be helpful. I also will add more sound deadening.

Basically the "subs" that come standard are in enclosures on both sides of the car, closest to the outside of the car. The extra 2 "subs" are free air. Open to the outside, and you can see the differential...... I was thinking a 6x9 speaker baffle would probably work well there.

http://www.amazon.com/050380-Boom-Oval-Speaker-Baffle/product-reviews/B0039Z3T4C


Id love to remove the seats and carpets and do the floorpan too.

From the small amount of trim removal I did already, the floor carpet is backed with a foil covered sound deadening already. Looks similar to Dynamat or Hushmat.

[Zybane]

So I got the speaker upgrade kit in the mail today. Sounds quite good, even with only the new door tweeters working.

A couple points for guys with 2015 Vipers, as the instructions are for 2013's....

There is an extra bolt holding the door panel on the top rear edge. It is hidden under the "SRS Airbag" badge. Just pry it off and remove the bolt. Took me quite a bit of pulling and screwing with it before I figured that out.......... (not sure if 2014s have these or not)

The instructions show the door trim coming off in two pieces, and having to remove a Phillips head screw. My car has these pieces plastic welded together, with no screw present. There is also a stud under the dash that the front of the door trim slides into. Once you see it, it'll be self explanatory. (not sure again if this is pertinent to 2014s)

You don't have to completely remove the door panels, just pull them off and let them hang, the 2015s have straps to hold the door up in the middle. You also don't have to remove the trim piece that holds the speaker grille from the door panel, to swap the blank for the grille, the grille can be removed from the door panel with the panel still wired to the car, and with the door trim still in the door.

On the 12 speaker system, you still need the update for the extra "subs" to work, but the door speakers work plug and play.

I still haven't installed the extra "sub" behind the drivers seat, as I already have the seat lowering bracket installed, so I'm assuming it'll be a bitch.

Thanks for the tips! I have the speaker upgrade kit coming for my 2015 TA2. I think I'm going to knock out a lot of this all at once. Remove the seats and door panels. Then install door speakers, door dynamat, then install 6x9's with the baffles linked, then dynamat all I can in that area. Maybe install the front/rear dashcam at this time, then install the seat lowering kit.

Anyone think of anything else to have done while I have the interior tore apart?

[ViperPete]

Basically the "subs" that come standard are in enclosures on both sides of the car, closest to the outside of the car. The extra 2 "subs" are free air. Open to the outside, and you can see the differential...... I was thinking a 6x9 speaker baffle would probably work well there.

http://www.amazon.com/050380-Boom-Oval-Speaker-Baffle/product-reviews/B0039Z3T4C

From the small amount of trim removal I did already, the floor carpet is backed with a foil covered sound deadening already. Looks similar to Dynamat or Hushmat.

I'd still add a fresh layer of dynamat extreme. I dynamatted my entire Avenger interior and I have almost 5,000 RMS watts going to the stereo.... ZERO rattles. I did spend $300 in dynamat extreme and that stuff was a PITA to install- I sliced my fingers up like crazy.

Here's a pic... http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/skyy406/DSC01019.jpg

[darbgnik]

So I took the plunge yesterday, and added a small sub to my car. I used to do this as a hobby, and thought, seeing as I actually drive this car more than all my others, it might make a decent upgrade for traffic slogs.

I built the box out of 1/2" MDF instead of 3/4, and fiberglass, so it's reasonably light. I also installed it into the drivers side cubby, as there is more airspace there. I also didn't build the box down into the lower recess because I want it to be easily removable. I used a JL 10W1V3 for the sub, and an XD300/1 for the amp. The amp has high level inputs, and doesn't need a remote wire, which is good, seeing the factory amplifier uses the CanBus to turn on. The sub and the amp also match up very well for power handling ratings.

I initially considered one of their flat 10T3 for the sub, but that one stays the same overall diameter a few inches into the box, and I needed an immediate taper to keep a flat face, and still fit into a mostly 8" tall enclosure(inside). Also, the sub I chose was OK with a half a cubic foot of airspace as well. The pics show the finished product, which basically diminishes the usable space none. I velcroed the amp to the front of the battery well, with the gain control toward the top. Ended up with about a foot of power and ground wire to the battery. I tied the high level inputs to the front sub channel output on the amplifier, also under the same tray cover as the battery. Probably the least amount of wire for an install ever.

And because the car is a hatch back, this sub actually pounds, and sounds good. And I have three 13" subs in my Hummer to compare with. I also have a factory made stealthbox with a 10W3 with 500 watts in my Ram, and this install is easily twice as loud. Hits hard enough to make the hatch glass rattle, but it can't be heard from inside, thankfully, and no other rattles but that. No dynamat added.

The highs in the car were always OK, and with the sub set up with the bass set at -4 on the deck, the speakers aren't trying to help as much, so there's virtually no distortion, even at high volumes. I'm happy with it.

[jaxtk]

Send me the last eight of the vin # and I'll tell you what the car has.

[genVer]

Very cool and removable to boot! I'm pretty happy with the 12 speaker setup in mine but if I were to do anything, this would be perfect. Thanks for sharing!


So I took the plunge yesterday, and added a small sub to my car. I used to do this as a hobby, and thought, seeing as I actually drive this car more than all my others, it might make a decent upgrade for traffic slogs.

I built the box out of 1/2" MDF instead of 3/4, and fiberglass, so it's reasonably light. I also installed it into the drivers side cubby, as there is more airspace there. I also didn't build the box down into the lower recess because I want it to be easily removable. I used a JL 10W1V3 for the sub, and an XD300/1 for the amp. The amp has high level inputs, and doesn't need a remote wire, which is good, seeing the factory amplifier uses the CanBus to turn on. The sub and the amp also match up very well for power handling ratings.

I initially considered one of their flat 10T3 for the sub, but that one stays the same overall diameter a few inches into the box, and I needed an immediate taper to keep a flat face, and still fit into a mostly 8" tall enclosure(inside). Also, the sub I chose was OK with a half a cubic foot of airspace as well. The pics show the finished product, which basically diminishes the usable space none. I velcroed the amp to the front of the battery well, with the gain control toward the top. Ended up with about a foot of power and ground wire to the battery. I tied the high level inputs to the front sub channel output on the amplifier, also under the same tray cover as the battery. Probably the least amount of wire for an install ever.

And because the car is a hatch back, this sub actually pounds, and sounds good. And I have three 13" subs in my Hummer to compare with. I also have a factory made stealthbox with a 10W3 with 500 watts in my Ram, and this install is easily twice as loud. Hits hard enough to make the hatch glass rattle, but it can't be heard from inside, thankfully, and no other rattles but that. No dynamat added.

The highs in the car were always OK, and with the sub set up with the bass set at -4 on the deck, the speakers aren't trying to help as much, so there's virtually no distortion, even at high volumes. I'm happy with it.

[Rapidrezults]

I found this picture of a Viper for sale in my area. Apparently the previous owner went all out. I figured this would be a good place to post the pic for ideas.

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm163/rapidrezults/viperstereo_zpsjk8tds7q.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/rapidrezults/media/viperstereo_zpsjk8tds7q.jpg.html)

[ViperPete]

Wow that 10" enclosure looks amazing! That's what I want to do. I was wondering if I sould put the sub on the drivers or passengers side. My only thought was because of weight distribution, driver on one side and sub on the other.

Those 2 subs in that trunk are excessive!!!!! LOVELY THOUGH!

My factory door speakers still haven't arrived at the Dodge dealership, so still waiting on that.

Man I love that side mount sub, great job.

[SRT BILL]

Hey Darbgnik that's one of the best idea I've seen yet! nice engineering and workmanship. I would like to do something similar to my GTS 12 speaker system. Looks to me like you could start a small enterprise building those box's.

[ViperPete]

Hey Darbgnik that's one of the best idea I've seen yet! nice engineering and workmanship. I would like to do something similar to my GTS 12 speaker system. Looks to me like you could start a small enterprise building those box's.

I am going to have a shop make me one...
But..... Id much rather have a Viper guy make me one....

[lochnessmonster]

It takes your 19 speakers to equal our 18. It's an exchange rate thing.

:Canada: That was funny :United_States:

[darbgnik]

Wow that 10" enclosure looks amazing! That's what I want to do. I was wondering if I sould put the sub on the drivers or passengers side. My only thought was because of weight distribution, driver on one side and sub on the other.

Man I love that side mount sub, great job.

Thanks guys, the passenger side would have been better for weight for sure, but there is a lot less useable room on that side.


Hey Darbgnik that's one of the best idea I've seen yet! nice engineering and workmanship. I would like to do something similar to my GTS 12 speaker system. Looks to me like you could start a small enterprise building those box's.

Lol, I built it at a stereo shop a friend of mine owns using his tools, materials, and equipment. Not sure how he'd feel about me trying to make money off his back, lol. Plus,I just did it for fun. I think if I did it for money, it wouldn't be as fun.

I built a cardboard model of the box before building it. I could see if it's still there, and post the measurements? It'd be pretty easy for any shop to follow, and theres only one area where fiberglass is required, the top of the fact to a few inches back to the box top. Although I glassed all the seams and corner, just 'cause.

I could also get one of his guys to build them, but labor rates where I live are expensive for good guys. I think he said the box would cost 600 bucks or so, to anyone walking off the street. Could probably get the price down significantly with quantity, but it'll never get down to the 100 dollar range.....

[Zybane]

I've noticed that my "speaker upgrade package" speakers say Harmon Kardon on them. So I take it these are the same speakers used in the OEM 18-speaker install.

[DZnutz]

So I took the plunge yesterday, and added a small sub to my car. I used to do this as a hobby, and thought, seeing as I actually drive this car more than all my others, it might make a decent upgrade for traffic slogs.

I built the box out of 1/2" MDF instead of 3/4, and fiberglass, so it's reasonably light. I also installed it into the drivers side cubby, as there is more airspace there. I also didn't build the box down into the lower recess because I want it to be easily removable. I used a JL 10W1V3 for the sub, and an XD300/1 for the amp. The amp has high level inputs, and doesn't need a remote wire, which is good, seeing the factory amplifier uses the CanBus to turn on. The sub and the amp also match up very well for power handling ratings.

I initially considered one of their flat 10T3 for the sub, but that one stays the same overall diameter a few inches into the box, and I needed an immediate taper to keep a flat face, and still fit into a mostly 8" tall enclosure(inside). Also, the sub I chose was OK with a half a cubic foot of airspace as well. The pics show the finished product, which basically diminishes the usable space none. I velcroed the amp to the front of the battery well, with the gain control toward the top. Ended up with about a foot of power and ground wire to the battery. I tied the high level inputs to the front sub channel output on the amplifier, also under the same tray cover as the battery. Probably the least amount of wire for an install ever.

And because the car is a hatch back, this sub actually pounds, and sounds good. And I have three 13" subs in my Hummer to compare with. I also have a factory made stealthbox with a 10W3 with 500 watts in my Ram, and this install is easily twice as loud. Hits hard enough to make the hatch glass rattle, but it can't be heard from inside, thankfully, and no other rattles but that. No dynamat added.

The highs in the car were always OK, and with the sub set up with the bass set at -4 on the deck, the speakers aren't trying to help as much, so there's virtually no distortion, even at high volumes. I'm happy with it.

Ill take one! where do I order??? lol

[darbgnik]

Ill take one! where do I order??? lol

Lol, I talked it over with one of the main stereo guy there. We still have all the templates for the box, and he doesn't mind the idea of building a few more, but as it stands, the box would run around 500 bucks, but that's through the shop, with an official receipt. If there were a few more the cost would probably go down(saving time assembly lining them). To guys like you, in Canada, he could even package the product pre-wired, for a 30 minute install. For anyone in the US, it wouldn't make sense to do this, as the product is cheaper there, and then there's the warranty to consider. But with the exchange, 500 Canadian is 400 American for a custom built carpeted box..

I know it doesn't sound cheap, but there really is quite a bit of labor involved, and this shop has good guys, and pays them accordingly.

[ViperPete]

The finished product does look great, but yeah... that is on the expensive side.

I am glad you posted this though.

[DZnutz]

Im in, if you want the money up front I will send it. Let me know

I also want to run a JL sub

[darbgnik]

The finished product does look great, but yeah... that is on the expensive side.

I am glad you posted this though.

I understand completely. It's just that we don't have access to the cheap labor up here you guys do, so I knew most guys would see sticker shock.


Im in, if you want the money up front I will send it. Let me know

I also want to run a JL sub

I sent you a PM, Mr. Test Driver, lol.

[gpearl]

I just had my gear installed.

Put mids in the stock door location, and tweeters in the dash pod.

Here are pictures of the hatch, with and without the cover for the amp. The sub is a JL shallow mount.

My installer tuned it, and it's not right. He did it with the engine off. A lot of the bass gets cancelled out, and the imaging is not great. I'm sure it's fixable.

Now I can drive with the audio off when I want, and play music/satellite radio if I'm stuck in the rain in traffic.

11456

11457

[darbgnik]

I just had my gear installed.

Put mids in the stock door location, and tweeters in the dash pod.

Here are pictures of the hatch, with and without the cover for the amp. The sub is a JL shallow mount.

My installer tuned it, and it's not right. He did it with the engine off. A lot of the bass gets cancelled out, and the imaging is not great. I'm sure it's fixable.

Now I can drive with the audio off when I want, and play music/satellite radio if I'm stuck in the rain in traffic.

11456

11457

That looks really good. I like how he broke up the box covering. How is the amp mounted?

The only reason I went through the trouble of custom building a box in the cubby was to make optimal room for my track gear, and still have tunes for the highway.
But this way was my first idea.

As for the tuning, you're right, with the car on, there's cancellation, even with an aftermarket sub. I ended up installing a bass knob under the dash, for quick adjustments. Didn't even have to remove any panels to run the wire. I also have the equalizer in the deck set at -4 for the bass, so the speakers don't work so hard. With the 18 speaker system installed(extra door tweeters), I find the imaging to be very good.

I was also going to install the small Audison AP1 amp, but it needed a remote wire, and the factory amp only turns on with CAN BUS........ we must shop at similar places.

[gpearl]

That looks really good. I like how he broke up the box covering. How is the amp mounted?

The only reason I went through the trouble of custom building a box in the cubby was to make optimal room for my track gear, and still have tunes for the highway.
But this way was my first idea.

As for the tuning, you're right, with the car on, there's cancellation, even with an aftermarket sub. I ended up installing a bass knob under the dash, for quick adjustments. Didn't even have to remove any panels to run the wire. I also have the equalizer in the deck set at -4 for the bass, so the speakers don't work so hard. With the 18 speaker system installed(extra door tweeters), I find the imaging to be very good.

I was also going to install the small Audison AP1 amp, but it needed a remote wire, and the factory amp only turns on with CAN BUS........ we must shop at similar places.

To be honest Brad, I'm not sure how the amp is mounted. The installer knows that when the day comes to sell the car I'll be taking all of my aftermarket gear, and I don't want it to look like anything has been touched for the next owner.

I am also thinking of putting my Audison bass controller in. I'm not really happy with the sound right out of the box, but after I drive it for a while I'll be able to make some adjustments and make it right. The component speakers are the Focal KRX2's.

Your work is really nice.