St.Char
04-14-2015, 12:10 AM
Hi Everyone! Removed and replaced my stock coilovers on my Gen 3 this weekend. I did this with the help and advice of a few members on this forum, however, I didn't have any pictures to go with the removal or install of the new ones...so I took some along the way so that maybe others may benefit from my experience.
I am not a certified mechanic, nor do I suggest that this may be the only method that will work for you, so I take no responsibility for the outcome and results of others, however this DIY may in fact give you some idea what to look for when doing your own removal and install.
Lets get started...
* I began by loosening up the lugs on all four wheels, then proceeded to get my car lifted up with my floor jack and placed 4 jacks stands underneath, one on each of the 4 corners.
* Once I was confident that the car was level and save sitting on the jack stands, I removed all 4 wheels to access the stock coilovers.
* I choose to start in the front. If you are not going to do all 4 coilovers at the same time, I found it helpful to do at least 2 at a time, I started in the front and began by removing the top bolt of the coilover first, which side you begin on is up to you. By removing the top bolt first, this will allow the coilover to have a little wiggle room when you are ready to remove the bottom bolt.
* Here is a pic of what the top bolt of the coliover looks like, this is the rear coilover, however the front and rear look the same at the top.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock7%202_zpsrml8gyhe.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock7%202_zpsrml8gyhe.jpg.html)
* Once you get the top bolt out, proceed to the bottom. The bottom bolt is a little more challenging because the end link to the sway bar is in the way. In the pic below, you can see where the head of the bottom bolt is facing the end link, you will need to unbolt this end link that connects to the sway bar so you can move the end link out of the way to access and remove the bolt. Remove the nut that you see on top of the end of the sway bar, this will allow the sway bar to swing up and out of the way. ***Please note that it is important to remove both nuts on the left and right end of the sway bar before attempting to release it***
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock2%202_zps6dbgd9av.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock2%202_zps6dbgd9av.jpg.html)
* Once the nut is removed on both sides of the sway bar, swing it up and out of the way, see pic below. Now the end link will easily tilt out of the way and allow you to easily remove the bottom bolt on the coilover.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock1%202_zpsyhwjwykj.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock1%202_zpsyhwjwykj.jpg.html)
* I had a little difficulty getting the sway bar to release from the end link once the nut was removed, so I placed my floor jack underneath the bar and placed the head of my rubber mallet on the jack, so that the stock of the mallet was facing up and placed the end of the mallet against the sway bar. Then very slowly, I began jacking up the mallet, the pressure released the sway bar and "presto" problem solved!
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock3%202_zpssglnhtdg.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock3%202_zpssglnhtdg.jpg.html)
* The new coilovers I installed are from BC Racing. I installed them starting at the top and finishing with the bottom bolt, however when I installed the bottom bolt, I turned it around so that the head of the bolt was facing the opposite way than it did when I removed it, this way I won't have to remove the end sway bar link if I want to change them out later. **The new coilover install was much easier and faster
than the removal.**
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock4%202_zpsseeqa1tl.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock4%202_zpsseeqa1tl.jpg.html)
Now you're ready to move to the back...
* I started with the bottom bolt in the back, this gave me some wiggle room at the top. The bolt at the top sits somewhat receded between the 2 fender wheel well liners making it a little challenging to access and remove. I left them in on one side and removed them on the other just to have better bolt access.
* Once you get the top bolt out you will find it difficult to remove the coilover. So...in the pic below you will see 4 screws that fasten the front portion of the wheel liner in place with the rear, remove those 4 screws.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock11%202_zpsz5ssgj1p.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock11%202_zpsz5ssgj1p.jpg.html)
* Once the screws are removed, pull back the rear liner to reveal a round rubber grommet, simply pull it out with your hand. Now take the top of the coilover and lift it up into the hole, this will allow you to pull the bottom portion of the coilover toward you and completely remove.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock5%202_zpsmakwomp8.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock5%202_zpsmakwomp8.jpg.html)
* I installed the new one by starting with the top bolt, this allowed me to swing the fork forward and line up the bolt holes.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock6%202_zpsz7bzi5tf.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock6%202_zpsz7bzi5tf.jpg.html)
* If you are installing the BC coilovers, please refer to the manufacturers instructions before attempting to make any adjustments. If you are wondering what might be a good starting point for adjustment, this is what I used. There is 1" between the spanner nuts on both the front and rear of my car. This gave me 26" from the ground to the bottom portion of the fender lip (centered with the wheel) in the front and measured while standing beside the car. I did the same procedure for the rear and measured 27.5" from the ground to the center of the bottom lip of the fender. These measurements may not work for you and probably are not accurate for track use, so use at your discretion. The BC coilovers have 30 settings between a soft and hard ride. It may take you a few test drives before you are comfortable with the settings. Mine are set at 15 clicks from soft to hard in both front and back.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock10%202_zpsz3f87bwt.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock10%202_zpsz3f87bwt.jpg.html)
* Once you have your ride height and rebound settings where you want them, you are now ready for an alignment...Good Luck!
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Lowered%20Viper_zpsb9xk3btw.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Lowered%20Viper_zpsb9xk3btw.jpg.html)
I am not a certified mechanic, nor do I suggest that this may be the only method that will work for you, so I take no responsibility for the outcome and results of others, however this DIY may in fact give you some idea what to look for when doing your own removal and install.
Lets get started...
* I began by loosening up the lugs on all four wheels, then proceeded to get my car lifted up with my floor jack and placed 4 jacks stands underneath, one on each of the 4 corners.
* Once I was confident that the car was level and save sitting on the jack stands, I removed all 4 wheels to access the stock coilovers.
* I choose to start in the front. If you are not going to do all 4 coilovers at the same time, I found it helpful to do at least 2 at a time, I started in the front and began by removing the top bolt of the coilover first, which side you begin on is up to you. By removing the top bolt first, this will allow the coilover to have a little wiggle room when you are ready to remove the bottom bolt.
* Here is a pic of what the top bolt of the coliover looks like, this is the rear coilover, however the front and rear look the same at the top.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock7%202_zpsrml8gyhe.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock7%202_zpsrml8gyhe.jpg.html)
* Once you get the top bolt out, proceed to the bottom. The bottom bolt is a little more challenging because the end link to the sway bar is in the way. In the pic below, you can see where the head of the bottom bolt is facing the end link, you will need to unbolt this end link that connects to the sway bar so you can move the end link out of the way to access and remove the bolt. Remove the nut that you see on top of the end of the sway bar, this will allow the sway bar to swing up and out of the way. ***Please note that it is important to remove both nuts on the left and right end of the sway bar before attempting to release it***
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock2%202_zps6dbgd9av.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock2%202_zps6dbgd9av.jpg.html)
* Once the nut is removed on both sides of the sway bar, swing it up and out of the way, see pic below. Now the end link will easily tilt out of the way and allow you to easily remove the bottom bolt on the coilover.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock1%202_zpsyhwjwykj.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock1%202_zpsyhwjwykj.jpg.html)
* I had a little difficulty getting the sway bar to release from the end link once the nut was removed, so I placed my floor jack underneath the bar and placed the head of my rubber mallet on the jack, so that the stock of the mallet was facing up and placed the end of the mallet against the sway bar. Then very slowly, I began jacking up the mallet, the pressure released the sway bar and "presto" problem solved!
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock3%202_zpssglnhtdg.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock3%202_zpssglnhtdg.jpg.html)
* The new coilovers I installed are from BC Racing. I installed them starting at the top and finishing with the bottom bolt, however when I installed the bottom bolt, I turned it around so that the head of the bolt was facing the opposite way than it did when I removed it, this way I won't have to remove the end sway bar link if I want to change them out later. **The new coilover install was much easier and faster
than the removal.**
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock4%202_zpsseeqa1tl.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock4%202_zpsseeqa1tl.jpg.html)
Now you're ready to move to the back...
* I started with the bottom bolt in the back, this gave me some wiggle room at the top. The bolt at the top sits somewhat receded between the 2 fender wheel well liners making it a little challenging to access and remove. I left them in on one side and removed them on the other just to have better bolt access.
* Once you get the top bolt out you will find it difficult to remove the coilover. So...in the pic below you will see 4 screws that fasten the front portion of the wheel liner in place with the rear, remove those 4 screws.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock11%202_zpsz5ssgj1p.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock11%202_zpsz5ssgj1p.jpg.html)
* Once the screws are removed, pull back the rear liner to reveal a round rubber grommet, simply pull it out with your hand. Now take the top of the coilover and lift it up into the hole, this will allow you to pull the bottom portion of the coilover toward you and completely remove.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock5%202_zpsmakwomp8.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock5%202_zpsmakwomp8.jpg.html)
* I installed the new one by starting with the top bolt, this allowed me to swing the fork forward and line up the bolt holes.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock6%202_zpsz7bzi5tf.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock6%202_zpsz7bzi5tf.jpg.html)
* If you are installing the BC coilovers, please refer to the manufacturers instructions before attempting to make any adjustments. If you are wondering what might be a good starting point for adjustment, this is what I used. There is 1" between the spanner nuts on both the front and rear of my car. This gave me 26" from the ground to the bottom portion of the fender lip (centered with the wheel) in the front and measured while standing beside the car. I did the same procedure for the rear and measured 27.5" from the ground to the center of the bottom lip of the fender. These measurements may not work for you and probably are not accurate for track use, so use at your discretion. The BC coilovers have 30 settings between a soft and hard ride. It may take you a few test drives before you are comfortable with the settings. Mine are set at 15 clicks from soft to hard in both front and back.
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Stock10%202_zpsz3f87bwt.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Stock10%202_zpsz3f87bwt.jpg.html)
* Once you have your ride height and rebound settings where you want them, you are now ready for an alignment...Good Luck!
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee107/gsaintchar/Lowered%20Viper_zpsb9xk3btw.jpg (http://s230.photobucket.com/user/gsaintchar/media/Lowered%20Viper_zpsb9xk3btw.jpg.html)