Need Enclosed Hauler Advice.

[FLATOUT]

Hi Guys,

I am looking at a 2005 Cargomate, 18' enclosed hauler for sale locally. I am trying to pic up a hauler either open or enclosed for a couple trips to the track a year, and so I can take the car to more national events and not have to worry about breaking and towing home.

I am on a really tight budget and am looking at roughly $2,800.00 or less. The hauler I am looking at is owned by a local Lotus Esprit guy and he's making me a great deal on it. Before anyone metions needing a 30 footer for hauling a much of extra stuff, i'm not interested in taking extra wheels/tires, or anything else. Just want to know if the Viper will fit in an 18 footer.

Would an 18 footer work for a Gen IV ACR? Anyone here have experience with Cargomate?

Thanks for any and all help.

Andy

[RPM9000]

Andy,

I bet it would be a really tight fit. I measured my Gen.1 and it is around 15 feet long. My trailer is a 28 footer. Does it have a side door for getting in and out of the car?

Paul

[FLATOUT]

Andy,

I bet it would be a really tight fit. I measured my Gen.1 and it is around 15 feet long. My trailer is a 28 footer. Does it have a side door for getting in and out of the car?

Paul

It does have a side door, I need to go a take a look at it but just wanted to do some quick research to see what you guys thought.

Thanks Paul!

[XSnake]

It will fit as long as it it WIDE enough. Measure between the wheel wells before committing.

[jwolf]

I have had several trailers and hauled them all over the country. I would much rather haul and open trailer. much easier to tow, easier to back, . better visibility while driving, and people will let you pull out to see what you got on the trailer. So unless you want to used the enclosed as storage get an open. I have a 7 foot wide enclosed and I would 10 times rather haul it then the 8.5 foot wide enclosed I had.

I would question and 18 foot for a Viper, I had a 20 and it was tight most people use 24's

[XSnake]

My only advice would be to make sure you are getting the 5200lb version vs. the 3500lb. You'll be darn close to the limit with the 3500lb, which is not something the Lotus guy would be concerned with and not a trailer I would want to pull my Viper in. Lengthwise it will be tight but it should fit (your viper is about 176" stock). I don't know about centering the load though. I use a United 20' trailer and all the extra space is at the front due to the weight distribution of the Viper (mostly in the front). Maybe someone else will have more experience with an 18' trailer. Even with the 5200lb version I'd confirm you can center the load appropriately.

If you are getting the higher rated unit at/under your target amount that is doing pretty well.

If you are talking about axle rating he should be fine even with the 3.5k rated axles as there would be two of them for a total of 7k

[FLATOUT]

Guys,

Thanks so much for the info, and I am trying to decide on the open vs enclosed route. Seems like a lot of enclosed guys I know that have used them for light duty have all gone back to open haulers.

I will have him measure the width and find out what rating it is.

[FLATOUT]

Would really like to pick up a Sloan, or Texas roll back, but they are mostly out of my price range and not readily available on the used market.

[FLATOUT]

OK so he has been hauling an 02 esprit in it behind his RV:

Ok quick google:

Width: Lotus Esprit Viper ACR

73.5” 75.2”

Length: 172” 175.6”


Weight: 2,850 3,379

[Bill Pemberton]

Keep in mind you need room for your straps and the front splitter is hard to work around. At 18 feet you are leaving only around a foot and a half to work with on each end and , considering that you will not be able to have hooks at the very front of the trailer or the very back , you might be lucky to be working with one foot on each end for straps. I had a 20 ft. trailer for my first Viper and it was a pain even at that, and at present I am looking for a new enclosed - am looking for a 22 -24 ft and suggest you do the same. Best of luck.

[XSnake]

OK so he has been hauling an 02 esprit in it behind his RV:

Ok quick google:

Width: Lotus Esprit Viper ACR

73.5” 75.2”

Length: 172” 175.6”


Weight: 2,850 3,379

I was gonna say I didn't think it would be 3,500lbs for the trailer. 2,800 seems more like it. Width doesn't seem right to me but I guess it depends on your rear wheels and offset. Mine was 78" from outside tire to outside tire. Go physically measure your car.

I would suggest an open if you are trying to stay that small. I got my Triple Crown for $2k new at my local trailer place. It was wide enough for the car and my doors would open over the fenders even though I was lowered.

[FLATOUT]

I think I'll pass on this hauler, and start looking into open haulers.

[FLATOUT]

For those of you that don't use a tilt style open hauler, how do you get your ACR's on to a 4" dove tail unit? Race ramps/boards?

[Ohiotj]

If you use long enough boards you can make it up. You just have to measure it out and cut some 12" wide boards to accommodate your ride height. Also I have drilled a hole into the wooden ramps and drop a retaining pin in through the metal ramps. This will stop the wood boards from sliding while loading and unloading. Put a few bricks or any other type block under the wood ramps and you are good to go. Keep in mind that the height and angle of the ramps while shift as the weight is being put onto the trailer. Don't assume your ball height is the same distance from the ground if you tow with different trucks. These are some things that caused others to get hung up.

[slitherv10]

Here's an add in Niagara Falls, if your willing to take the trip.looks like a good deal.

http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-TILT-AND-LOAD-CAR-TRAILER-W0QQAdIdZ546953703

[RedTanRT/10]

For those of you that don't use a tilt style open hauler, how do you get your ACR's on to a 4" dove tail unit? Race ramps/boards?

Race ramps with my Featherlite. If you go open their great trailers, my 18' weights 1500#. You can find a nice one for about $3500-$4000, strong resale if you decide to go enclosed later

[slitherv10]

http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-TILT-AND-LOAD-CAR-TRAILER-W0QQAdIdZ546953703

[FLATOUT]

Thanks for the leads guys. I think I'll spend between $2500 & $3,000 when the time comes (between now and mid January). Been following racing junk and some of the other trailer sites.

If anyone has something they are looking to get rid of shoot me a PM.

[chesapeake07]

For those of you that don't use a tilt style open hauler, how do you get your ACR's on to a 4" dove tail unit? Race ramps/boards?

Race ramps all the way.

[jwolf]

Best open trailer I ever had was a Trailex, I bought it used for $2500 It got hit twice, both times the other guy's insurance was more than fair, since it is a bolt together trailer I just ordered replacement aluminum parts from Trailex and ended up having free trailer and making so money on the deal. Make sure you get the one for low profile cars. The trailer is modular so you can easily customize it to your needs. I wish I had it back but I sold it to buy my 8.5 foot wide enclosed that I hated and it towed like a open parachute.

[FLATOUT]

Best open trailer I ever had was a Trailex, I bought it used for $2500 It got hit twice, both times the other guy's insurance was more than fair, since it is a bolt together trailer I just ordered replacement aluminum parts from Trailex and ended up having free trailer and making so money on the deal. Make sure you get the one for low profile cars. The trailer is modular so you can easily customize it to your needs. I wish I had it back but I sold it to buy my 8.5 foot wide enclosed that I hated and it towed like a open parachute.

Damn those are a bit out of my price range but I'll keep my eye out for a used one, any idea what model you had?

[jwolf]

I did not haul a Viper on the one I had, it was called the "Early Vette Hauler". it was a 18 foot flat trailer, most of the time I hauler an Amphicar on it.

1375

[Joel]

The only problem with an open trailer is that it is open. That might sound like Mr. Obvious has shown up but I have an 18+ foot Featherlite that I use haul my race car with. It is easier to tow than an enclosed trailer but all that open air is full of debris that will sandblast your car (especially out west) and pelt it with rain. Not a problem for a race car that already has some bruises but you may feel differently about your Viper. And yes, you can try to cover it but most times the cover just beats the hell out of the car too! You may get lots of stares at what you are hauling but it is also open for those who don't just want to look. I love the Featherlite trailer but I am looking for a 24 foot enclosed. Granted, I haul lots of stuff to the racetrack besides the car, but chances are, you will too. And, while there is no tamper proof trailer, out of sight is out of mind. A more practical concern is what do you tow with? As others have said, it takes a lot of power to pull an enclosed trailer - and good brakes to stop it. If you don't have a 3/4 ton truck, maybe an open trailer is best.

[jwolf]

The only problem with an open trailer is that it is open. That might sound like Mr. Obvious has shown up but I have an 18+ foot Featherlite that I use haul my race car with. It is easier to tow than an enclosed trailer but all that open air is full of debris that will sandblast your car (especially out west) and pelt it with rain. Not a problem for a race car that already has some bruises but you may feel differently about your Viper. And yes, you can try to cover it but most times the cover just beats the hell out of the car too! You may get lots of stares at what you are hauling but it is also open for those who don't just want to look. I love the Featherlite trailer but I am looking for a 24 foot enclosed. Granted, I haul lots of stuff to the racetrack besides the car, but chances are, you will too. And, while there is no tamper proof trailer, out of sight is out of mind. A more practical concern is what do you tow with? As others have said, it takes a lot of power to pull an enclosed trailer - and good brakes to stop it. If you don't have a 3/4 ton truck, maybe an open trailer is best.

I agree 100% but if you looking at 24+ foot long 8.5 foot wide I would bump it up to a 1 ton truck. Plus, if you are like me you will fill 100% of available trailer space full of stuff you think you might need or needed once before and add another 1000 LBs to the weight of the trailer.

I pulled my Trailex with my Amphicar on it over 10,000 miles with a 4 cylinder Ranger pickup. With it behind the B300 Mortohome it never knew it was there, no effect on gas mileage. With 8,5 with 7 foot tall (12 inches over stock) enclosed trail the gas mileage went for 12 mpg to 8 mpg and you knew it was there and on long steep hills you had to watch to temp gauge. (it has a 360 4V with a 727 -411 rear gears). Speed limits we 55 mph back then so I never pulled it fast. So Joel's comment on what you tow with is right on.

[FLATOUT]

I will be towing with a 2007 Tahoe LTZ with an upgraded trans cooler. I have decided to most likely go with an 18 or 20 foot Kearny open steel deck hauler with a 4' dove tail, rock shield, & bull dog coupler. I think for what I will use it for it should be a great fit. 3K or less and it will do what I will need it to do.

[jwolf]

You will probably need longer ramps or race ramps or something, but it looks like a nice trailer. Since on an open trailer the car can hang over the back and you can get to both front and back to tie it down length is not as important.

[ViperSmith]

Personally I'd go with an open until you can trade and get an better enclosed.

[FLATOUT]

You will probably need longer ramps or race ramps or something, but it looks like a nice trailer. Since on an open trailer the car can hang over the back and you can get to both front and back to tie it down length is not as important.

I will get a set of race ramps to use with it. Nineball lives close and uses some for his so I will see if he will let me borrow them and test fit before ordering a set. I can get a 20' version as well for not much more. Just trying to keep the weight down.


Personally I'd go with an open until you can trade and get an better enclosed.

Agree I think it will fit my tow vehicle much better as well. I can get it new also so I won't have to deal with fixing an older trailer.

[jwolf]

You will be able to adjust tongue weight better with the 20 footer. You need to have at least 10% Figure 2200 lb for the trailer 3200 for the car of a total of about 5500 lbs so you be wanting 550 LBS on the tongue check you hitch and rear suspension. You will need at least a class 3 hitch and legally brakes on all wheel in contact with the ground.

[FLATOUT]

You will be able to adjust tongue weight better with the 20 footer. You need to have at least 10% Figure 2200 lb for the trailer 3200 for the car of a total of about 5500 lbs so you be wanting 550 LBS on the tongue check you hitch and rear suspension. You will need at least a class 3 hitch and legally brakes on all wheel in contact with the ground.

Ok I spoke with the manufacturer here today in Texas and they said the electric brakes weren't necessary. I wonder if that is different in other states. I'll try to pick up the 20 footer then. The Tahoe I have is an LTZ and I know it has a tow button that stiffens the rear suspension as well when towing if that actually helps.

Andy

[Bill Pemberton]

Check out www.sltrailers.com ( Stateline Trailers ) , 712-303-1390. Ask for Craig Hull and he can talk you through an open trailer at a reasonable price. His brother had a Viper years ago, and they do alot of trailers for Hot Rods and others low slung vehicles. Great prices for brand new and they know their business . Hope this is helpful?

[FLATOUT]

Yes it is Bill, thank you very much. I'll give him a ring.


Check out www.sltrailers.com ( Stateline Trailers ) , 712-303-1390. Ask for Craig Hull and he can talk you through an open trailer at a reasonable price. His brother had a Viper years ago, and they do alot of trailers for Hot Rods and others low slung vehicles. Great prices for brand new and they know their business . Hope this is helpful?

[jwolf]

Indiana only require brakes on one axle but Federal DOT requires brakes on all wheels that touch the ground with few exceptions if the trailer is over 3000 LBS or weighs more than 40% of the weight of the tow vehicle. But for your own safety have brakes or you will be rear-ending someone.
Most in most states electric or surge are fine, Indiana requires you to be able to put trailer brake on independent of the vehicles brakes so that kind of eliminates surge. Check your state laws

[Dusty1]

Andy:

Here it starts, Beth and I got our 22 footer and the next thing you know you own a 53 footer and an F350 dually. One word of advice, we ended up adding air bags to our Suburban and it helped the ride and stability a ton.

Richard

[FLATOUT]

HAHA :D yes you two know all to well. Man I'm excited about spending more time on track. Looking forward to not having to worry about breaking and still getting home.

Thanks for the advice Richard.



Andy:

Here it starts, Beth and I got our 22 footer and the next thing you know you own a 53 footer and an F350 dually. One word of advice, we ended up adding air bags to our Suburban and it helped the ride and stability a ton.

Richard

[Shooter]

HAHA :D yes you two know all to well. Man I'm excited about spending more time on track. Looking forward to not having to worry about breaking and still getting home.

Thanks for the advice Richard.

Hurry up so I can borrow it. :orange::t1253::bth_smiley_formula1:dude3:

[FLATOUT]

Hurry up so I can borrow it. :orange::t1253::bth_smiley_formula1:dude3:

Hey if I can store it in your garage for a couple months you can use it whenever you want :D. Seriously though if you're racing locally and I'm not out there its yours to borrow anytime.

[Herrsss]

Word of warning on an open trailer. Cracked windshield. We successfully hauled a car on our open trailer for several years. My black car's first trip back from TWS ended up with a rock chip turning into a top to bottom cracked windshield by the time I got home. Keep in mind the trailer has a 6' diamond plate front plate with tire racks - mystery how a rock got past all that to hit the windshield. Best news of all . . . Lexan replacement :o

[FLATOUT]

Hmmmmmmmm I was hoping adding a rock shield to the front of whatever open hauler I would buy would keep that from happening. I guess it's just a risk you take.

Thanks for the warning Beth.



Word of warning on an open trailer. Cracked windshield. We successfully hauled a car on our open trailer for several years. My black car's first trip back from TWS ended up with a rock chip turning into a top to bottom cracked windshield by the time I got home. Keep in mind the trailer has a 6' diamond plate front plate with tire racks - mystery how a rock got past all that to hit the windshield. Best news of all . . . Lexan replacement :o

[Voice of Reason]

Subscribing. Eventually I want to get a trailer and think an open one will fit my needs best so I'm glad to hear others have had success with an open trailer.

[jwolf]

I have also had damage in enclosed trailer, since you can't see what happening if you forget to tie down a jack or tires or something before you head out it can fall/roll and damage your car.
The only cars I haul in my enclosed trailer are open wheel and easy to tie down, but i would think a Viper could be a real pain to tie down in front. I would think may be tie down doors would be in order. I have a right side tie down door on my enclosed but I never use it except to check the load quickly

[Nine Ball]

I've had at least 4 open trailers, and a loaded out Haulmark 28' with A/C. I found myself using the open trailer more than the enclosed, as it was quicker to load and easier to pull. Kept the enclosed 2 yrs and finally got rid of it. I don't miss it at all, other than having a shady cool place to hang at long weekend events. The beauty of the Viper doors is that they open higher than most cars, and can swing right over the top of an open trailer fender. Easy to get in/out.

definitely get the electric brakes and a controller, if towing with a 1/2 ton. HD trucks have better brakes.

[FLATOUT]

Found a nice Texas Roll Back that might be just a touch above my price range, but I'll stretch to get it I think. Electric winch, brakes, removable fenders, rock shield, spare, and two racks for tires.

If I can't snag this one I'll go back to Kearny and pick up one of those.



I've had at least 4 open trailers, and a loaded out Haulmark 28' with A/C. I found myself using the open trailer more than the enclosed, as it was quicker to load and easier to pull. Kept the enclosed 2 yrs and finally got rid of it. I don't miss it at all, other than having a shady cool place to hang at long weekend events. The beauty of the Viper doors is that they open higher than most cars, and can swing right over the top of an open trailer fender. Easy to get in/out.

definitely get the electric brakes and a controller, if towing with a 1/2 ton. HD trucks have better brakes.

[Sam Goldfarb]

I have used an 18' enclosed US Cargo for many years. It has two 3500 lb axles and weighs right at 3000 lbs empty. I winch the car in backwards and it takes me 5-10 minutes to load or unload the car by myself. (It's always smoother and easier if nobody is watching or trying to help!) I make sure that I have D or better rated tires and carry two spares. When one blows the other almost always blows before you can shut it down. I have a power jack on the front of the trailer and use it when I tow with my V10 Ram Dually or my jacks on my motor home to lift the nose of the trailer. This lowers the rear of the trailer and flattens out the approach angle. Also, by having the front of the car hanging over the beaver tail it allows easy access to attach the tie down straps. I use metal t hooks and connect them to the oval holes in the frame. They are crisscrossed and I rarely have to adjust them at all. I use the winch to tighten them up and then place two more ratchet straps on the rear, close the doors and I'm down the road. When I unload I power winch out and 9 out of 10 times the front straps turn and fall out of the frame as the vehicle rolls out, I don't have to even get under the car!

The side door on most trailers doesn't help with a Viper as the sill is usually too high, unless you lift the Viper up with a couple ramps inside the trailer. There is plenty of room inside an 18' trailer unless you haul a ton of other stuff! My car typically has about 3' at the front of the trailer and about 1' at the rear. I have a scale that allows me to measure tongue weight and make a couple marks on the floor about 6" apart. I use 550 lbs. on the motor home and 800 lbs on the Ram.
I don't use any equalizers or sway bars, motor home has 6 tires on the rear and the dually has 4, never had any issues with stability or stopping except one time when the trailer plug came unplugged and was dragging down the road! I almost always place tape or a tie wrap on the plug now as the springs in the plug covers don't seem to be safe!

If you give some thought and practice a little loading and unloading it is much better to use the enclosed trailer. Weather, theft, road damage etc etc are vastly improved over an open trailer. The few extra minutes someone is going to tell me they save loading an open trailer are used up cleaning your car even if you don't run through rain, snow or dust! If you want to show off your car cut out the sides and replace them with clear plexiglass. There was a company a few years back that actually made a trailer that was enclosed with clear sides, I think out of Sweden?

I actually hauled a 97 Ram 1500 with a Viper engine in the 18' trailer back to Ohio from Tennessee and it was a tight fit. I ran 65 all the way back in my V10 Ram dually with no problems!

I vote enclosed! I also have a 21' open tilt bed low boy rated at 12,000 lbs, but I would never haul the Viper on it!

[Husker]

I've been following this post. I also am considering an enclosed trailer vs an open trailer. For those who have an enclosed trailer, how do you get out of the car after you have driven into the trailer? Do you just crawl out the window or can you open the door far enough without bumping the sides?

[Nine Ball]

The door will open 3-4 inches, then you crawl out the window. Usually opens just enough to be able to step on the side sill plate. Not fun.

I will never buy another enclosed without the driver side escape door on that wall, period.

[Husker]

Does anyone know anything about www.kaufmantrailers.com. I'm considering a 20 ft tilt bed with a steel deck at 10,000 lbs capacity.

[BlknBlu]

Does anyone know anything about www.kaufmantrailers.com. I'm considering a 20 ft tilt bed with a steel deck at 10,000 lbs capacity.

Hurry up so I can borrow it.

Bruce

[Shooter]

Hurry up so I can borrow it.

Bruce

lol

[Redx]

Does anyone know anything about www.kaufmantrailers.com. I'm considering a 20 ft tilt bed with a steel deck at 10,000 lbs capacity.

stick with something with a lighter capacity. Thing will tow like a tank and would be very bouncy with the stiff springs(you straps will loosen up, etc). I had a 20ft open deck and i hated it, it was a skid steer trailer from the start(10k capacity aswell) and unless you were towing a bobcat, the ride was terrible.

[Herrsss]

I've been following this post. I also am considering an enclosed trailer vs an open trailer. For those who have an enclosed trailer, how do you get out of the car after you have driven into the trailer? Do you just crawl out the window or can you open the door far enough without bumping the sides?

I crawl out through the window but we are getting ready to have 2 side escape doors installed so I won't have to be such a contortionist!

[pastohio]

I think a 20 foot enclosed can now be bought NEW for about $4500 on Ebay....then put a winch in the nose and this makes loading/unloading easy for you....also the side door over the wheels isn't then needed, most of the time with a side door you have to raise the car in the trailer for the door to clear the wheel housing anyway....also put some "non-slip stuff on the floor, if the straps aren't down secured, the car can actually hop from side to side and even hit the wheel housing....new makes more sense in stead of gambling on someone's used, also new usually has a warranty....my $.02

[steve911]

You get what you pay for when it comes to trailers. With the exception of the really cheap trailers motst of the side escape doors will allow you to open the viper door without a problem.

There are so many things to consider when buying a trailer that they couldnt be listed in this forum. Please do some research. Nothing is worse than buying a trailer you hate a few months down the road.

[TrackAire]

I've used and own both open and enclosed trailers. Only downfall of the enclosed trailer is worse mpg in my opinion. When towing, I often spend the night so having my car locked up in a secure enclosed trailer means huge piece of mind, especially when traveling and staying in areas with limited security. If towing on an open trailer and it is raining, the car often becomes a dirty mess since the tow rigs turbulence kicks up a lot of mist. If taking your Viper to a car show, it arrives looking perfect in an enclosed trailer...not always the case with an open trailer.

My present enclosed trailer is 24' long but only has 17.5' of "car" storage. I can fit either my Viper or Mustang in it with no problem. The front has a bathroom, sink, cabinet, fridge, microwave, etc. I have no problem strapping the car down and have done multiple trips with it as such (800 mile round trips with no issues). I have a set of race ramps that gives the approach angle to even allow ACR's with smooth track settings easy entry with no clearance issues. I suggest the following:

-Get at least a 20' enclosed trailer, with weight equalizing bars you won't even know it is there, other than your mileage, lol.
-Get a center mounted winch. I would find it frustrating to drive a Viper with canards into a trailer (Vipers are wide). With a winch, the car self steers itself right down the center and you have full control especially with a wireless remote. I use two of the IPSCO tow rings and bridle them together so the winch cable is pulling from the center. Leave the car's steering wheel unlocked and she'll drive straight in.
-When unloading, I just drive my pickup's rear tires up onto a set of plastic ramps and this gives the trailer enough angle so the car rolls out by itself with the winch controlling the speed. That way I don't have to jack up the front, etc.
-I'm too fat and old to climb out the window without screwing up the interior or scratching something. Most Vipers door openings are high enough that they will clear the fender of the trailer if you get a side escape door on the trailer.
-If it is raining, it is nice strapping the car down in a dry environment....plus your straps and tie down equipment stays dry and clean.
-If you decide you like the trailer, it is very easy to add an AC so you have someplace to hang out between sessions if the temps are hot. I have a 3000 watt generator that rolls up the ramp and stores behind the Viper. Great for running the AC, or recharging your cell phone if you have a track lap timer on it since those really seem to suck up battery life. The trailer is also a great place to get out of the wind, change, let the kids take a nap, etc.
-For the tie downs on the front, I use a mini "R" hook with two oval rings welded to it. It allows the strap to clear any type of splitter and the strap is nearly flat touching the floor so you have great clearance. You attach to the "D" shaped tie down hole on the frame. On certain ACR's you need to trim about 1/4" of material where the splitter material is covering the D tie down hole. Very easy to tie the car down with the front straps crossed.
-On the Viper, the rear tie downs "D" holes are easy to reach and a super strong tie down point.
-I also carry a set of through the wheel tie down straps for when I'm hauling cars that don't have good or easy to reach tie downs like the Viper.

Good luck with your choice.

George

[Mad Max]

What winch load rating would be best?

[TrackAire]

What winch load rating would be best?

Mine is a Warn RT-40 which is rated at 4000 lbs. That rating is on the very first layer of cable on the drum, as the winch pulls in more cable the drum diameter gets bigger and the winch loses capacity (worse gearing). I honestly think it probably takes between 500 lbs to 800 lbs of actual "pull" to pull the car into the trailer assuming you don't have a mechanical issue with the car dragging the brakes or the approach ramp is super steep. I think any name brand winch from 3500 lbs to 5000 lbs would be sufficient. I highly recommend getting a wireless remote as you can stand anywhere around the car while controlling the winch. Makes loading and unloading the car a simple one man job.

Also, make sure that your winch is attached properly to the floor with something on the underside to attach to. Many trailers are just plywood floors and cannot take much stress from either a winch or the tie down points. At a minimum, you'd want some sort of metal backing plate under the floor for the winch and tie down points. Better yet would be something that ties into the frame to give the winch added support during the pulling and stopping phase of the loading and unloading.

George

[steve911]

+1 with George on this one. I have a 500 lb winch in my trailer. It works well and wasnt much more that a 3000 lb one.