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C5Longhorn
03-03-2015, 11:00 PM
While installing my water pump over the weekend, I figured it would be a good time to clean the bottle. It is dirty and I can't get all the internal baffles clean with just water.

Anyone have a recommendation for a product that will clean all the baffles and chambers inside the bottle?

Thanks,

Rick

mblgjr
03-03-2015, 11:47 PM
Remove the tank completely; off the car.

Cap off the fitting.

Get some arm n hammer washing soda (washing not baking) and HOT water; throw it in the tank maybe 1/4-half full & shake the living daylights out of it.

Rinse/repeat. Dawn Ultra or Tide mixed in can also help.

The soda has always worked pretty well for me at getting all the core sand stains out.

FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH before reinstalling on the car.

mblgjr
03-03-2015, 11:51 PM
And Id heard this before but never documented...

Coffee grounds.

http://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/515256-how-to-clean-dirty-coolant-tank.html

Bugman Jeff
03-04-2015, 12:46 PM
CLR will help dissolve some of the scum. You need something to mechanically agitate it too. Ice works, and unlike nuts and bolts or BBs, it won't ding the plastic and you don't have to worry about shaking it out past all the baffles.

C5Longhorn
03-04-2015, 05:23 PM
I'm going to do this tonight. All very good tips and the input is much appreciated.

Rick

Dajerseyviper
03-04-2015, 08:34 PM
C5Longhorn, you and I are working on the same exact stuff at the same time!!!LOL I just removed my tank today and was wondering what to use to clean it..As far as the bolts, soak them overnight in distilled vinegar.

Dajerseyviper
03-04-2015, 08:36 PM
Oh and I see what you mean about getting all those heater core lines off..They were a nightmare where they were with those stupid clamps.. I never understood the point of them spring clamps.

C5Longhorn
03-05-2015, 08:39 AM
C5Longhorn, you and I are working on the same exact stuff at the same time!!!LOL I just removed my tank today and was wondering what to use to clean it..As far as the bolts, soak them overnight in distilled vinegar.

Yes, alot of what you have posted I have stocked away as I plan on doing things like seat covers (wish the passenger ones weren't so damn expensive), wheels, etc. I'm also trying to save money where possible by doing work myself.

I may have to step up to the vinegar as I still have some stubborn crud in the bottle. I've been soaking it overnight and will check when I get home today.

- - - Updated - - -


Oh and I see what you mean about getting all those heater core lines off..They were a nightmare where they were with those stupid clamps.. I never understood the point of them spring clamps.

Yes, I finally got them off but I'm definitely going to invest in a hose pliers.

Rick

Dajerseyviper
03-05-2015, 10:14 AM
Was one of your heater core hoses almost melted to the tube? The bottom of one of mine was a PITA to get off, it was melted to the tube a bit..Did you try the coffee cleaner for the tank? Im wondering if it matters if you use Decaf...I dont want to waste the good stuff ;-)

Bugman Jeff
03-05-2015, 11:42 AM
I never understood the point of them spring clamps.
They're often a pain to work with, but are much faster and cheaper to use on the assembly line.

Dajerseyviper
03-05-2015, 11:56 AM
They're often a pain to work with, but are much faster and cheaper to use on the assembly line.

Faster and cheaper, there it is!!!LOL they always seem to put them on where you can not access the darn thing to remove it to...That must take them extra time.

Dajerseyviper
03-05-2015, 03:57 PM
BTW I just tried the coffee grounds trick, and it worked pretty good. 99% of the sludge in the tank is gone..

bluesrt
03-05-2015, 04:00 PM
While installing my water pump over the weekend, I figured it would be a good time to clean the bottle. It is dirty and I can't get all the internal baffles clean with just water.

Anyone have a recommendation for a product that will clean all the baffles and chambers inside the bottle?

Thanks,

Rick I use a/c flush solvent, makes them new clean fast, remove bottle,pour in, swish around,let sit, swish around,flush

C5Longhorn
03-05-2015, 10:05 PM
Was one of your heater core hoses almost melted to the tube? The bottom of one of mine was a PITA to get off, it was melted to the tube a bit..Did you try the coffee cleaner for the tank? Im wondering if it matters if you use Decaf...I dont want to waste the good stuff ;-)

Sorry, just saw this message. I don't think it was melted on, but it took me a while to get the clamps off.

- - - Updated - - -


BTW I just tried the coffee grounds trick, and it worked pretty good. 99% of the sludge in the tank is gone..

I didn't get to work on the bottle tonight. I have tried one round of coffee grounds and it helped. I still have some sludge that needs to be removed. I'm going to try again tomorrow.

Rick

C5Longhorn
03-05-2015, 10:07 PM
I use a/c flush solvent, makes them new clean fast, remove bottle,pour in, swish around,let sit, swish around,flush

I'll give this a try if the coffee grounds and Arm&Hammer washing soda don't work.

Rick

AZTVR
03-05-2015, 10:34 PM
I never understood the point of them spring clamps.


They're often a pain to work with, but are much faster and cheaper to use on the assembly line.

I always thought that it was ease of assembly, and have always cursed them. However, I learned that they have an advantage over other clamps. They are constant tension clamps. They keep a constant tension through heating and cooling cycles; so, there is also a good engineering reason to use them in a coolant application.

Dajerseyviper
03-05-2015, 10:56 PM
I always thought that it was ease of assembly, and have always cursed them. However, I learned that they have an advantage over other clamps. They are constant tension clamps. They keep a constant tension through heating and cooling cycles; so, there is also a good engineering reason to use them in a coolant application.

I didnt even think of that...That is correct!!!

C5Longhorn
03-06-2015, 08:08 AM
Yes, they are better for that, but still a huge PITA. When I switch to T-bolt clamps on the radiator hoses, I expect to have to tighten them after a few heat cycles.

Rick

Dajerseyviper
03-06-2015, 04:13 PM
Yes, they are better for that, but still a huge PITA. When I switch to T-bolt clamps on the radiator hoses, I expect to have to tighten them after a few heat cycles.

Rick

Do you recall the hose position from the reservoir tank to the water pump and the waster pump to the heater core line? Does it matter which one is the front nipple on the water pum or are they both the same?

C5Longhorn
03-07-2015, 08:39 AM
The hose coming from the pressure bottle connects to the fitting closest to the front of the car. The fitting behind connects to the hose coming from the black tube along the manifold.