eucharistos
11-20-2013, 11:23 AM
iirc these instructions are from Ron
this is for new or additional fobs, etc, not to re-synchronize fobs after battery change (again, iirc those instructions are in the manual)
1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.
2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.*2A. (1999 ~ 2002) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC, Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.
3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is*still grounded!
4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:*- Have the wrong wire- Aren't solidly grounded*- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.
5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.*5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.
6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.
__________________
this is for new or additional fobs, etc, not to re-synchronize fobs after battery change (again, iirc those instructions are in the manual)
1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.
2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.*2A. (1999 ~ 2002) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC, Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.
3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is*still grounded!
4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:*- Have the wrong wire- Aren't solidly grounded*- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.
5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.*5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.
6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.
__________________