Damn Yankee
11-18-2014, 01:16 PM
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/EXHAUST-HEADER.jpg
Yea, its winter in Maine....
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/P1030762.jpg
By the first week of November we were already at 26 degrees and had had two North Easters, one dumping 18 inches of snow and knocking out power for four days. Yes, winter had arrived. This winter I was determined to be able to run the Grey Ghost throughout the winter without opening the garage door.
For the last 14 years I have cracked the garage door and tried to let the exhaust exit under it. Needless to say, not a great plan. This year it will be different. This is a complete guide to what I ended up with for a fully "Viper Capable" exhaust hose system.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/Untitled-2-1.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/th_20141118_095127.mp4 (http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_095127.mp4)
That's right folks! You can be inside and hear your supercharger whine WITHOUT the exhaust noise....nice! There is little if ANY exhaust smell inside. The whole system fits like a glove and is really simple. It all store away in a coil in the corner. YES, one can get inserts for flush exhaust side pipes and just about anything else you can think of.
You can reduce the pipes for small vehicles, drop it over the HUMVEE exhaust side dump.
What you need to know about my Viper:
1. Roe Supercharged
2. Corsa Exhaust system
3. Intended use is to allow for the engine to run 20 - 30 minutes at idle speed with mildest of low rpm range revs. The intent is to allow the engine to warm up to the point where the water is purged from the system and the auto fan comes on. Toasty but not roasty.
I contact a host of professional garage exhaust hose providers in an attempt to select the best solution to heavy horse power exhaust management. I ended up speaking at length with Jake at Crushproof Exhaust Systems out of McComb, Ohio. I bought their system and paid full local price for the set-up. Its installed, its been run and it works exactly as I had hoped. Sever climate winter shut-in is the target audience here. In other words if you don't live in the great woods or in the winter plain states or on the NorEaster coast lines, you probably don't need this system. But with 55mph gusts and low 20s in November, well its a God send.
When I was done, I had learned a great deal about the “exhaust hose” solution and its application in my case. Folks, there is more than a spoonful of thought that has to go into both the system and the use of the system to run a large horsepower car through a tube and out a door port. We start with the truth that most professional shops that run these systems run an active, fan assisted system. My system was to be designed as a static “pipe out” system. Does it work? Absolutely! Is it able to handle my Viper’s 4” duals and Supercharged output? Absolutely! Is the garage still warm at the end? Absolutely! Are there things that you need to know BEFORE you do this? Absolutely…..So here we go.
System Selection:
1. When one selects an passive exhaust port system (as in no fan assist) there is some serious work to be done in the proper type, sizing and selection of the various components.
- I am going to take it for granted that anybody that does this will seek out a quality provider where the materials employed in the parts are appropriate for the heat, water and pressures expected. Rubber breaks down very quickly when heat comes into play and good quality hose, bells and fittings should be made from materials expressly suited to exhaust environments. Know that idle speeds and the most modest of revs is all that these systems are designed to take, and for periods of time that are limited to around 20-30 minutes of run time. The system that I selected was to allow me to warm the Viper up until the moisture is out of the exhaust system and the engine fan comes on. You can spend twice as much and get exhaust piping that is Dyno proven, we are talking up to 700 degrees. That was not my interest, I went with an excellent hose that is good to 600 degrees with a fan system and potentially 1/2 that without and on a short course.
- For a Viper, we will need to run 4” hose, bells, “Y” fittings and door port(s). Using a 3” system will not work and will literally blow the bells right off your pipes. It is also important to know that the proper fit of the bells over your exhaust tips requires that fresh air must move through the small gap between your exhaust tips and the bells. In other words the fit is not tight, it is not loose, it is a proper fit that comes when one matches a well designed 4” flow bell.
- Lead in to the "Y" connector is important and should be no less than four (4) feet. Overall length of the complete system should not exceed 12 feet. Remember that the hose can go outside through the port so the extra length in some bays can just go "out the port."
- Keep the exhaust port "door" about 6" off the floor. You will see I re-engineered the port so that it would work with a thick, insulated garage door and be, itself, insulated and locked when not in use. Simple modification.
- There is no maintenance on any parts of this system. Expect it to last a minimum of 15 years as 15 years is daily use service. We are warming the rig up what, once a week here?
- This whole system is engineered to "fit" together. There is no adhesives, tapes, wires, wraps, etc. The hose literally ether goes over with a friction fit or screws into the other operational parts.
- The INTERNAL DIAMETER is 4" but the external diameter is a full 5" and the hole you drill through the wall/door is 5 3/8."
- My system has two (2) independent hoses that go over each of the dual exhausts. Once again.YES, one can get inserts for flush exhaust side pipes and just about anything else you can think of.
- The Pieces I used:
The Hose = 11” FLT400
The "Y" Fitting = AY40
The two (2) Exhaust tip Bells = F400 (2x)
The Door/Wall Port = ADF40
You can figure on spending around $300-$400 to make this all come together.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_094058.jpg
Here we see the four (4) foot long lead ins to the "Y" connector. The gas to expand and settle out before the combination into the final last leg.
This is high quality material folks. Parts of the system will last forever.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_094113.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_094510.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_094547.jpg
I cut the hole in the insulated garage door by marking out the circle drilling a hole and using a steel cutter blade in my 1/8" arbor Dremel. It took no time, but I had to cut at it from both sides.
Now I made some changes. I wanted a "plug" to both insulate the hole and a plate on the inside that "locked" the door closed. Heck, it is a swinging 4" hole. up here that is a big hole for weather and I like privacy.
Here is how I made the modification:
1. Remove original bolts (3).
2. Replace with machine head (cone head) as the outside is where the heads go and they must allow the swing plate to pass over them. ADD 1/2" IN LENGTH.
3. Pass the longer bolts from the outside plate through the inside plate and put on the first three nuts.
4. Now buy a 5" chimney hole blocker plate and some thick hard insulation board.
5. Trim the chimney plate down until it is flat (as in remove the flange.)
6. Cut the insulation to be slightly tight in the hole.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_100415.jpg
7. Now drop a dab of red paint on the end of the threads and, properly aligned, just touch the the chimney plate to the backing....marking the right place for the holes.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_100644.jpg
8. Drill out the three (3) holes.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_120600.jpg
9. Take the insulation and adhere it to the back on the chimney plate with THE RIGHT ADHESIVE...as in foam board allowable.
10 Press it in the hole and use wing nuts to hold the assembly in the hole...
Inside shot, follow up with three (3) wing nuts...sealed.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_120631.jpg
SEALED! Picture from the outside.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_121053.jpg
Here we go:
CRUSHPROOF TUBING COMPANY
800-654-6858
WWW.CRUSHPROOF.COM
100 NORTH STREET
McCOMB, OHIO 45858
I spoke with a great guy named "Jake" but they all know their stuff..
Yea, its winter in Maine....
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/P1030762.jpg
By the first week of November we were already at 26 degrees and had had two North Easters, one dumping 18 inches of snow and knocking out power for four days. Yes, winter had arrived. This winter I was determined to be able to run the Grey Ghost throughout the winter without opening the garage door.
For the last 14 years I have cracked the garage door and tried to let the exhaust exit under it. Needless to say, not a great plan. This year it will be different. This is a complete guide to what I ended up with for a fully "Viper Capable" exhaust hose system.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/Untitled-2-1.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/th_20141118_095127.mp4 (http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_095127.mp4)
That's right folks! You can be inside and hear your supercharger whine WITHOUT the exhaust noise....nice! There is little if ANY exhaust smell inside. The whole system fits like a glove and is really simple. It all store away in a coil in the corner. YES, one can get inserts for flush exhaust side pipes and just about anything else you can think of.
You can reduce the pipes for small vehicles, drop it over the HUMVEE exhaust side dump.
What you need to know about my Viper:
1. Roe Supercharged
2. Corsa Exhaust system
3. Intended use is to allow for the engine to run 20 - 30 minutes at idle speed with mildest of low rpm range revs. The intent is to allow the engine to warm up to the point where the water is purged from the system and the auto fan comes on. Toasty but not roasty.
I contact a host of professional garage exhaust hose providers in an attempt to select the best solution to heavy horse power exhaust management. I ended up speaking at length with Jake at Crushproof Exhaust Systems out of McComb, Ohio. I bought their system and paid full local price for the set-up. Its installed, its been run and it works exactly as I had hoped. Sever climate winter shut-in is the target audience here. In other words if you don't live in the great woods or in the winter plain states or on the NorEaster coast lines, you probably don't need this system. But with 55mph gusts and low 20s in November, well its a God send.
When I was done, I had learned a great deal about the “exhaust hose” solution and its application in my case. Folks, there is more than a spoonful of thought that has to go into both the system and the use of the system to run a large horsepower car through a tube and out a door port. We start with the truth that most professional shops that run these systems run an active, fan assisted system. My system was to be designed as a static “pipe out” system. Does it work? Absolutely! Is it able to handle my Viper’s 4” duals and Supercharged output? Absolutely! Is the garage still warm at the end? Absolutely! Are there things that you need to know BEFORE you do this? Absolutely…..So here we go.
System Selection:
1. When one selects an passive exhaust port system (as in no fan assist) there is some serious work to be done in the proper type, sizing and selection of the various components.
- I am going to take it for granted that anybody that does this will seek out a quality provider where the materials employed in the parts are appropriate for the heat, water and pressures expected. Rubber breaks down very quickly when heat comes into play and good quality hose, bells and fittings should be made from materials expressly suited to exhaust environments. Know that idle speeds and the most modest of revs is all that these systems are designed to take, and for periods of time that are limited to around 20-30 minutes of run time. The system that I selected was to allow me to warm the Viper up until the moisture is out of the exhaust system and the engine fan comes on. You can spend twice as much and get exhaust piping that is Dyno proven, we are talking up to 700 degrees. That was not my interest, I went with an excellent hose that is good to 600 degrees with a fan system and potentially 1/2 that without and on a short course.
- For a Viper, we will need to run 4” hose, bells, “Y” fittings and door port(s). Using a 3” system will not work and will literally blow the bells right off your pipes. It is also important to know that the proper fit of the bells over your exhaust tips requires that fresh air must move through the small gap between your exhaust tips and the bells. In other words the fit is not tight, it is not loose, it is a proper fit that comes when one matches a well designed 4” flow bell.
- Lead in to the "Y" connector is important and should be no less than four (4) feet. Overall length of the complete system should not exceed 12 feet. Remember that the hose can go outside through the port so the extra length in some bays can just go "out the port."
- Keep the exhaust port "door" about 6" off the floor. You will see I re-engineered the port so that it would work with a thick, insulated garage door and be, itself, insulated and locked when not in use. Simple modification.
- There is no maintenance on any parts of this system. Expect it to last a minimum of 15 years as 15 years is daily use service. We are warming the rig up what, once a week here?
- This whole system is engineered to "fit" together. There is no adhesives, tapes, wires, wraps, etc. The hose literally ether goes over with a friction fit or screws into the other operational parts.
- The INTERNAL DIAMETER is 4" but the external diameter is a full 5" and the hole you drill through the wall/door is 5 3/8."
- My system has two (2) independent hoses that go over each of the dual exhausts. Once again.YES, one can get inserts for flush exhaust side pipes and just about anything else you can think of.
- The Pieces I used:
The Hose = 11” FLT400
The "Y" Fitting = AY40
The two (2) Exhaust tip Bells = F400 (2x)
The Door/Wall Port = ADF40
You can figure on spending around $300-$400 to make this all come together.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_094058.jpg
Here we see the four (4) foot long lead ins to the "Y" connector. The gas to expand and settle out before the combination into the final last leg.
This is high quality material folks. Parts of the system will last forever.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_094113.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_094510.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_094547.jpg
I cut the hole in the insulated garage door by marking out the circle drilling a hole and using a steel cutter blade in my 1/8" arbor Dremel. It took no time, but I had to cut at it from both sides.
Now I made some changes. I wanted a "plug" to both insulate the hole and a plate on the inside that "locked" the door closed. Heck, it is a swinging 4" hole. up here that is a big hole for weather and I like privacy.
Here is how I made the modification:
1. Remove original bolts (3).
2. Replace with machine head (cone head) as the outside is where the heads go and they must allow the swing plate to pass over them. ADD 1/2" IN LENGTH.
3. Pass the longer bolts from the outside plate through the inside plate and put on the first three nuts.
4. Now buy a 5" chimney hole blocker plate and some thick hard insulation board.
5. Trim the chimney plate down until it is flat (as in remove the flange.)
6. Cut the insulation to be slightly tight in the hole.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_100415.jpg
7. Now drop a dab of red paint on the end of the threads and, properly aligned, just touch the the chimney plate to the backing....marking the right place for the holes.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_100644.jpg
8. Drill out the three (3) holes.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_120600.jpg
9. Take the insulation and adhere it to the back on the chimney plate with THE RIGHT ADHESIVE...as in foam board allowable.
10 Press it in the hole and use wing nuts to hold the assembly in the hole...
Inside shot, follow up with three (3) wing nuts...sealed.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_120631.jpg
SEALED! Picture from the outside.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/DAMNYANKEE2006/20141118_121053.jpg
Here we go:
CRUSHPROOF TUBING COMPANY
800-654-6858
WWW.CRUSHPROOF.COM
100 NORTH STREET
McCOMB, OHIO 45858
I spoke with a great guy named "Jake" but they all know their stuff..