View Full Version : Clutch and a Cold Morning
MtnBiker
11-10-2014, 11:32 AM
I drove up to OK City this weekend. This moring it was fairly cool. When I went to start the car, the clutch had a lot of "slop" at the top (pedal depressed more than half way before engaging). There was also little room for releasing the clutch, i.e. it engaged right away at bottom. This is not normal (wasn't this way when I parked it last night). After driving 30 mins it seems to be back to normal. Can someone explain what's going on? Is my clutch almost worn out?
Steve-Indy
11-10-2014, 11:55 AM
Have not had that happen with any Gen...least of all our 08 or 10...and, we certainly have wide swings of temp here.
Any fluid on floor?
Clutch fluid level OK? Ever changed it?
FLATOUT
11-10-2014, 11:57 AM
It's a self bleeding design if I'm not mistaken, so that would explain it improving, but not sure what would cause the issue to begin with. What fluid are you running in the clutch hydraulics?
MtnBiker
11-10-2014, 12:18 PM
Motul 600.
MtnBiker
11-10-2014, 12:20 PM
Have not had that happen with any Gen...least of all our 08 or 10...and, we certainly have wide swings of temp here.
Any fluid on floor?
Clutch fluid level OK? Ever changed it?
Changed it before Cota back in March. Checked fluid level, ok.
FLATOUT
11-10-2014, 01:09 PM
Changed it before Cota back in March. Checked fluid level, ok.
I have no idea man, sorry :(
jvm728
11-10-2014, 03:45 PM
Slave cylinder leaking underneath the boot? I had this happen randomly on a mazdaspeed3 a few years ago. It would work once you get going because the bleeding rate was less than fill rate from working the pedal, but initial start up and few minutes was dead
Dusty1
11-10-2014, 04:37 PM
Is the fluid clean and clear, have had problems when it becomes cloudy.
Richard
Shooter
11-10-2014, 05:30 PM
You run headers right.? Probably just a little air (even though it's self bleeding) due to the long drive up w/heat from the headers, then the cool temp at start up. Once the fluid warmed, it was ok I bet.
MtnBiker
11-11-2014, 01:56 PM
You run headers right.? Probably just a little air (even though it's self bleeding) due to the long drive up w/heat from the headers, then the cool temp at start up. Once the fluid warmed, it was ok I bet.
It was okay once the fluid warmed up. I didn't check it this morning (drove the k-k-k-Kia).
Is the fluid clean and clear, have had problems when it becomes cloudy.
Richard
Yes! The fluid is nasty. I've been meaning to do the Ranger method on it, but just haven't yet.
MtnBiker
11-11-2014, 04:43 PM
Its cool out. I went into the garage and checked the feel of the clutch. Back to feeling like I had boiled the fluid after a hard session on the track. I haven't flushed/replaced the fluid yet.
FLATOUT
11-11-2014, 05:14 PM
Yeah I would start with the fluid then. When that fluid starts to break down who knows what issue it will cause outside of the pedal being lazy between shifts.
SA Heat
11-11-2014, 05:58 PM
Hopefully not due to something like this....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oebzAIZEfxQ
MtnBiker
11-11-2014, 10:33 PM
Haha. No. I did burnouts in my Z06 (and it was easy to slip and burn the clutch), but not in the Viper.
slowhatch
11-17-2014, 11:11 AM
Changed it before Cota back in March. Checked fluid level, ok.
John mine does the exact same thing, always has. On startup you get a little mush up at the top 1" or so of travel. As soon as it comes to temperature, it gets firmer. I've also had it the complete opposite, nice and firm on cold start and gets a little mushy at temperature. My fluid is fresh Motul RBF600 as well. Welcome to dodge ;)
OnceBitten
11-17-2014, 12:15 PM
Most likely a combination of 2 things. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, so old brake/clutch fluid will eventually end up getting water in it. With the super cold temps we are having now any trapped air bubbles, however minute, will expand and contract witht the heat of the engine to the cold of the air. So its water trying to freeze in the line and or air bubbles in the system. Changing the fluid will definitely help. Other than that just check the lines. If they are old enough it may be time for an upgrade.
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