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View Full Version : Replacing stud on LR


MtnBiker
08-30-2014, 11:13 PM
Had to remove calipers and hub to get the stud back in. Here's a few photos:

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/Viper/Repairs/Replacingstud1_zps74a2bb94.jpg (http://s1165.photobucket.com/user/MtnBiker8/media/Viper/Repairs/Replacingstud1_zps74a2bb94.jpg.html)

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/Viper/Repairs/Replacingstud2_zps1ab4a62d.jpg (http://s1165.photobucket.com/user/MtnBiker8/media/Viper/Repairs/Replacingstud2_zps1ab4a62d.jpg.html)

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/Viper/Repairs/Replacingstud3_zps8b66825e.jpg (http://s1165.photobucket.com/user/MtnBiker8/media/Viper/Repairs/Replacingstud3_zps8b66825e.jpg.html)

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/Viper/Repairs/Replacingstud4_zpsccab9ea0.jpg (http://s1165.photobucket.com/user/MtnBiker8/media/Viper/Repairs/Replacingstud4_zpsccab9ea0.jpg.html)

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/Viper/Repairs/Worne-brakepad_zps1a88b9d9.jpg (http://s1165.photobucket.com/user/MtnBiker8/media/Viper/Repairs/Worne-brakepad_zps1a88b9d9.jpg.html)
Timnineside
08-31-2014, 12:25 AM
That looks like a ton of work to replace a stud. Most cars you can just turn the hub. Pop out the old and in with the New.
MtnBiker
08-31-2014, 10:46 AM
The stud won't go past the aluminum whatever that thing is called/suspension assembly that the hub mounts to. Notice in the 1st picture the ball joints could use some lube, the rubber seals don't show any volume/empty. Also in the last picture notice the worn e-brake caliper from the interior side. It was just about ready to start eating rotor.
Nine Ball
08-31-2014, 11:02 AM
That doesn't look fun. What does the front of that aluminum knuckle look like? From this angle, it looks like the stud could have came out towards the front? Usually once you knock them out past the knurls, they gain a lot more angle to swivel around minor clearance areas.

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/Replacingstud1_zps74a2bb94.jpg
MtnBiker
08-31-2014, 06:22 PM
That doesn't look fun. What does the front of that aluminum knuckle look like? From this angle, it looks like the stud could have came out towards the front? Usually once you knock them out past the knurls, they gain a lot more angle to swivel around minor clearance areas.

The red arrows below show the only places with possibly enough room to slide a bolt by, but alas, no there is not enough room to get the stud past these areas (without grinding the stud down).

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/Viper/Repairs/hubassembly_zpsb13421dc.jpg (http://s1165.photobucket.com/user/MtnBiker8/media/Viper/Repairs/hubassembly_zpsb13421dc.jpg.html)
Timnineside
08-31-2014, 09:58 PM
The red arrows below show the only places with possibly enough room to slide a bolt by, but alas, no there is not enough room to get the stud past these areas (without grinding the stud down).

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q593/MtnBiker8/hubassembly_zpsb13421dc.jpg (http://s1165.photobucket.com/user/MtnBiker8/media/hubassembly_zpsb13421dc.jpg.html)



Yeah and after you grind the stud down you still wouldn't be able to get the new one without damaging the threads.

I worked on a cavalier that was like that. You could not get the old stud out no matter where you spun the bearing hub. I actually ended up grinding down about 1/8" of the spindle (or whatever its called). I wasn't willing to do all the work involved on that POS just to change 2 studs.