How to get in vert when car has no power?

[98intrigue]

I unplugged my battery 2 weeks ago while it sat and waited for me to change the Crank Position Sensor. I finally changed the sensor Friday night and hooked the battery back up, but the car has 0 power. I had the battery checked and it's fine. I've read that all you have to do is put the key in the ignition and turn it, which essentially wakes up the car...problem is I have no way of getting inside my car.

I know how to manually open the door with the hidden key hole, but the window obviously cannot do its auto-adjustment with no power. I've tried and tried prying the door open, but no go; the glass will not budge. Any advice?

http://i60.tinypic.com/2a7so07.jpg

[98intrigue]

FYI for anyone that needs to get in using the key hole under the mirror... make sure you pull open the door while you turn the key.:lol2: I'm an idiot.

[Vprbite]

Haha. That's great. It's always the little things isn't it? It's the kind of thing a 5 yr old would think of but here we are trying to come up with some fancy solution, use a specialty tool, incantations to the Viper Gods. Or...ya know...just pull. You aren't an idiot. You are a red blooded American male. I would have made the same mistake.

[Mr White]

1. open the hood, hook a charger to the battery terminal next the pdc...

2. unlock with your remote, open door

3. profit

[Viktimize]

You just pull the door and push on the face of the window at the same time. The window will fold in enough to clear the vert top. Same way to close the door when your window regulator is failing and won't drop the window properly. Just close the door by pushing on the face of the window.

[Unorthodox]

How hard was it to replace the crank position sensor?

[98intrigue]

How hard was it to replace the crank position sensor?

It would have been easier with a lift due to the space constraints of laying on the ground and bending my arms, but not bad. The sensor is located on the passenger side, towards the rear of the block. There's one 10mm bolt holding the sensor in place, but of course the bolt was located on top of the sensor (why would this not be on the bottom?). The wiring harness was a pain to get off the actual sensor as well. The little red piece you see acts like a lock and needs to be pulled out in order to slide the sensor out of the harness.

Thanks to Bart (latamud) for the picture!
http://i62.tinypic.com/343qm83.jpg

[swexlin]

What were the car's symptoms that caused you to replace the sensor?

[98intrigue]

The car was bucking sporadically when driving. Sometimes, the car would drive fine for a day or two. Other times, the car would buck every drive no matter if it was a 5 minute drive or an hour drive. I'd put the car in neutral and rev it and that would resolve the issue for a few minutes. The car stalled twice, but fired right back up. A few drives later, the car stalled again and that was it. The car had full power (lights, radio, gauges), but the motor would not even attempt to crank. No starter click. Nothing! All 4 center stack gauges would not move from 0 and the red warning lights were on.

[Unorthodox]

It would have been easier with a lift due to the space constraints of laying on the ground and bending my arms, but not bad. The sensor is located on the passenger side, towards the rear of the block. There's one 10mm bolt holding the sensor in place, but of course the bolt was located on top of the sensor (why would this not be on the bottom?). The wiring harness was a pain to get off the actual sensor as well. The little red piece you see acts like a lock and needs to be pulled out in order to slide the sensor out of the harness.

Thanks to Bart (latamud) for the picture!
http://i62.tinypic.com/343qm83.jpg


The car was bucking sporadically when driving. Sometimes, the car would drive fine for a day or two. Other times, the car would buck every drive no matter if it was a 5 minute drive or an hour drive. I'd put the car in neutral and rev it and that would resolve the issue for a few minutes. The car stalled twice, but fired right back up. A few drives later, the car stalled again and that was it. The car had full power (lights, radio, gauges), but the motor would not even attempt to crank. No starter click. Nothing! All 4 center stack gauges would not move from 0 and the red warning lights were on.

Thanks Ryan! I've had an issue with my car where sometimes it drives perfectly fine, and like total garbage other times. This sensor is cheap and I figured swapping it out with a new OE one wouldn't hurt.

Did the sensor fix your problems?

Michael

[98intrigue]

Thanks Ryan! I've had an issue with my car where sometimes it drives perfectly fine, and like total garbage other times. This sensor is cheap and I figured swapping it out with a new OE one wouldn't hurt.

Did the sensor fix your problems?

Michael
You're welcome, Michael. I only drove it about 10 miles yesterday, but the car did not buck once. I'd suggest changing it out sooner than later. I went to Cars & Coffee about an hour away from home, but fortunately my car broke down only 2 miles from my house on the way home. I was lucky since I was contemplating driving my car down to Doug Levin about 4 hours away.

[LATAMUD]

Somewhat on topic, for reference, 05/05 CPS is on the passenger side of the block near the engine mount.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q257/bart1239/imagejpg1-8.jpg

[LeadfootRT10]

The car was bucking sporadically when driving. Sometimes, the car would drive fine for a day or two. Other times, the car would buck every drive no matter if it was a 5 minute drive or an hour drive. I'd put the car in neutral and rev it and that would resolve the issue for a few minutes. The car stalled twice, but fired right back up. A few drives later, the car stalled again and that was it. The car had full power (lights, radio, gauges), but the motor would not even attempt to crank. No starter click. Nothing! All 4 center stack gauges would not move from 0 and the red warning lights were on.

I seem to have a similar problem with my 01....the car will sometimes feel like it has no power when i toe into the throttle, then suddenly surge forward for a second or two, then return to feeling limp. Other times it feels like the reverse.....the car has full power, but then cuts out for a second or two, then back to full power. Stepping down on the clutch and revving up to high RPM seems to fix the problem temporarily. It can be days in between incidents or hours....this sound about what you were experiencing?

[98intrigue]

I seem to have a similar problem with my 01....the car will sometimes feel like it has no power when i toe into the throttle, then suddenly surge forward for a second or two, then return to feeling limp. Other times it feels like the reverse.....the car has full power, but then cuts out for a second or two, then back to full power. Stepping down on the clutch and revving up to high RPM seems to fix the problem temporarily. It can be days in between incidents or hours....this sound about what you were experiencing?
I never had the no power feel...just the surging/bucking during acceleration (didn't matter if it was 5% throttle or +50% throttle). Even during idle at times, the car's RPMs would get funny and want to stall. Also, the tachometer would literally bounce and hit redline even though the actual engine's RPMs were no where close to that. I drove the car last night for about another 15 miles...still no more problems!

[LeadfootRT10]

I never had the no power feel...just the surging/bucking during acceleration (didn't matter if it was 5% throttle or +50% throttle). Even during idle at times, the car's RPMs would get funny and want to stall. Also, the tachometer would literally bounce and hit redline even though the actual engine's RPMs were no where close to that. I drove the car last night for about another 15 miles...still no more problems!

Definitely have not had the tach or idle issues, nor has my car ever stalled. Also mine only seems to happen under light/small throttle changes. Thanks though.