[PICS] Gen V intake on my Gen IV ACR [PICS]

[FLATOUT]

Sweet, have them throw those numbers at you in SAE this time. Looking forward to the outcome, and glad to see they didn't move.

Andy



Got 110 miles on the GenV intake without a single issue. There is no doubt in mind that the car is pulling better. I have an appointment to put it on the dyno tomorrow at 5pm. So I will have a solid before and after comparison on the GenV intake vs. Gen IV intake, both with Mopar PCM.

The bolts did not move at all today after about 40 miles on it during the drive. I did NOT re-torque these today. I am going to leave them as is. I do not want to over-torque these and cause issues. That said, I am going to keep an eye on these.

[ACRucrazy]

Has anyone measured both? You can tell from pics that they are longer, but how much longer?

Rough tape measurements were about 8.5" for the IV & 9" for the V.

[DreadLox]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0089N63JW

That torque wrench is out of stock lol. They said they had 12 in inventory and went to ship it and had none. Ill try to keep looking unless you guys have other options. I have till spring

[FrgMstr]

Got bumped off the dyno list today. :lame: Have too many tunings going on right now. Guys were at least uber-cool to call and let me know. Probably won't get over till next week to dyno again.

[FLATOUT]

That shop, kill it with fire.





























Ok maybe that's a bit much

[FrgMstr]

Thanks to the guys over at True Street Motorsports (https://www.facebook.com/TSMmcKinney) for getting me in today to complete the before and after GenV dyno runs. They are sponsoring RunWay Rivalry a roll race here in Dallas in May for cars UNDER 1000rwhp. You can check it out on their page above.

To be clear, the ONLY modification to the car between dyno runs was the installation of the GenV intake manifold. (Install notes and quick write up earlier in this thread.) Here are the specs of my car as per the drive line mods: 2008 - Belanger Headers - Cat Delete - 2.5 Corsa Catback - Mopar PCM.

I have about 150 miles on the car since install and it is running excellent and idles better as well.

STD Numbers - 16rwhp increase at peak.

http://kylebennett.com/files/hfpics/Viper%20Manifold%20Dyno%20STD.png

SAE Numbers - 18rwhp increase at peak.

http://kylebennett.com/files/hfpics/Viper%20Manifold%20Dyno%20SAE.png

Thanks to ACRucrazy and Flatout for the help along the way!

[IndyRon]

Excellent results! Thanks for sharing. I'll be doing mine this spring and we will hopefully really start to gather multiple examples of dyno data on these upgrades for the Gen IV.

[FLATOUT]

Great results! Great midrange gains!

[TooBlue]

2753

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Thanks for the update FrgMstr! Good results.

Love the understated black engine look, TooBlue!

[ACRucrazy]

Good numbers!

[TexasTonka]

Alright guys, got some concerns that may be an easy fix... May not.
I did the GenV SWAP ON MY ACR, gained 13rwhp but am still running full cats etc...
however although the dyno says I gained power my throttle response seems way below what it was before the swap, I am constantly putting the pedal on the floor through gears to accelerate.
Really seams like now putting the pedal to the floor is only giving me 1/2 throttle. This goes against what the dyno says I know.
Another issue is mileage. Granted with a modded 8.4L I am not looking at sipping fuel like a Prius but it is worth mentioning. On my way to Houston pre swap I got 20+ mpg cruising from San Antonio to Tomball at 90ish. On the way back from Tomball last night post swap I only managed 15 mpg cruising 90ish on the same trip.
I know my foot is much farther in the pedal to keep the 90ish speed after the swap.

What at I am thinking is the car needs to relearn WOT? Just an assumption.

Any ideas?

[Rocket]

Might need to relearn throttle position:
1. Insert key in ignition , turn key to the far right but don't start the car.
2. Depress accelerator quickly to the floor. (hold it there)
3. Turn the ignition switch to off, then release the gas pedal. (done)
Start and drive as normal.


Alright guys, got some concerns that may be an easy fix... May not.
I did the GenV SWAP ON MY ACR, gained 13rwhp but am still running full cats etc...
however although the dyno says I gained power my throttle response seems way below what it was before the swap, I am constantly putting the pedal on the floor through gears to accelerate.
Really seams like now putting the pedal to the floor is only giving me 1/2 throttle. This goes against what the dyno says I know.
Another issue is mileage. Granted with a modded 8.4L I am not looking at sipping fuel like a Prius but it is worth mentioning. On my way to Houston pre swap I got 20+ mpg cruising from San Antonio to Tomball at 90ish. On the way back from Tomball last night post swap I only managed 15 mpg cruising 90ish on the same trip.
I know my foot is much farther in the pedal to keep the 90ish speed after the swap.

What at I am thinking is the car needs to relearn WOT? Just an assumption.

Any ideas?

[TexasTonka]

Might need to relearn throttle position:
1. Insert key in ignition , turn key to the far right but don't start the car.
2. Depress accelerator quickly to the floor. (hold it there)
3. Turn the ignition switch to off, then release the gas pedal. (done)
Start and drive as normal.
Awesome. I'll give this a try this evening. Thanks.

[DreadLox]

I'm glad a lot of you guys know this stuff lol. Makes it easier for some of us. I've always loved vipers but I am a fairly new owner.... I have much to learn :)

[FLATOUT]

Awesome. I'll give this a try this evening. Thanks.


Kurt can you check that your fasteners are still properly torqued. Mine felt like what you are experiencing and I realized I had a few small leaks that was causing the lousy throttle response. I think as the plastic heats and cools a few times it is compressing a little which is causing some small leaks. I had Morgan relearn my throttle position sensor settings and it didn't help. I went back through everything and retorqued, as well as ziptie all of my vacuum lines and actually pulled on them to make sure they were tight.

All is good now and the throttle response is great. Hope that helps.

[Rocket]

With all this discussion regarding torquing and loosening, I believe there is a little more to those torque limiters. Is this a one time use product - ie should they be replaced when removing the intake? Do they in fact crush some?

[TexasTonka]

Kurt can you check that your fasteners are still properly torqued. Mine felt like what you are experiencing and I realized I had a few small leaks that was causing the lousy throttle response. I think as the plastic heats and cools a few times it is compressing a little which is causing some small leaks. I had Morgan relearn my throttle position sensor settings and it didn't help. I went back through everything and retorqued, as well as ziptie all of my vacuum lines and actually pulled on them to make sure they were tight.

All is good now and the throttle response is great. Hope that helps.

I'll check everything tomorrow night. What is the torque spec again? I many need to make a run to Harbor Freight for a torque wrench in that range.

[FrgMstr]

I'll check everything tomorrow night. What is the torque spec again? I many need to make a run to Harbor Freight for a torque wrench in that range.


106 inch pounds per Flatout.

I retorqued mine after one heat cycle and have not done it again. I am going to hold off and see if I have any leaks develop before I keep tightening those down, since I know those torque limiters are not cut to spec......whatever spec may be. I would rather see a little lead develop then split one of those mating surfaces. There is however a LOT of material there.

[FLATOUT]

Exactly there is a lot of material there no reason to worry as long as you're not a gorilla in the garage.


106 inch pounds per Flatout.

I retorqued mine after one heat cycle and have not done it again. I am going to hold off and see if I have any leaks develop before I keep tightening those down, since I know those torque limiters are not cut to spec......whatever spec may be. I would rather see a little lead develop then split one of those mating surfaces. There is however a LOT of material there.

[TexasTonka]

Well I have bought a Husky and also rented one from AutoZone... both torque wrenches were bad. Going to bit the bullet and order one. The bolts spun very freely on the one I started.

Quick question, is there a torque sequence for the intake manifold?

[TexasTonka]

Bought a craftsman. With Craftsman rewards it was only $49!! Cheaper than the Husky. It worked great and I had to tighten all 20 bolts a minimum of 3/4 turn, most were over a full turn. Will crank her up this weekend to see if that did anything for throttle response.

[FLATOUT]

Bought a craftsman. With Craftsman rewards it was only $49!! Cheaper than the Husky. It worked great and I had to tighten all 20 bolts a minimum of 3/4 turn, most were over a full turn. Will crank her up this weekend to see if that did anything for throttle response.


Did you add those small washers we talked about? That really seemed to help my torque specs, and the clamping force at each hardware point.

[TexasTonka]

Did you add those small washers we talked about? That really seemed to help my torque specs, and the clamping force at each hardware point.

Have not added the washers yet. I did buy some Nord-Lock vibration resistant stainless steel locking washers just in case I need them. Now that I have a torque wrench that is dead on accurate I will run through 2 more heat cycles, if I have to keep torquing then I'll add the lock washer and a dab of thread locker.
Taking it out this weekend through the Hill Country so we will see if acceleration is back or not.

[TexasTonka]

Finally took a few pictures of my GenV intake installed. Now to extend my drivers side catch can hose....

[FLATOUT]

Looks as good as when I last saw it! Excellent mods my friend.

[TexasTonka]

Looks as good as when I last saw it! Excellent mods my friend.

Can't thank you enough for the advise and pointers. Have helped out immensely. Getting a longer driver side hose made for the catch can and am going to wrap it in the OEM hose wrap webbing. Went ahead and made it 45" long, the one on the car is 40", should clear the valve covers and front of engine easily now without stretch.

[TexasTonka]

Well went out for a 100 mile cruise today after torquing the intake to the correct spec. While there was a slight increase bettering acceleration the throttle position is still no bueno.
Could not spin cold PSS on a cold road from a dead stop. Had to literally stand on the GO pedal to catch up to the suburban before me after a stop sign. Very little response in the pedal until it is on the floor then acts like it is bogged down when it accelerates. And in 100 miles I am a little under 1/2 tank used so it is still rich as hell.

Only engine mod done before this happened was the intake.

Had the diff cooler and trans cooler installed too but that shouldn't make any issues.

What at am I missing?

[FrgMstr]

Have you reset the throttle body positioning?

1. Turn key full to on, do NOT start the car.
2. Press the throttle to the floor, hold it there.
3. Turn key off.

Should be reset. I know I did this to mine, but am unsure if this is the exact process. There is a post around here with it in it, but I could not find it.

[FrgMstr]

Also, did you zip tie the two vacuum lines (I zip tied every one on the unit that I had undone during install) that come out of the bottom/front of the intake. The nipples on the new intake are a bit smaller than the Gev IV ones. I think FlatOut had this issue as he warned me about it.

[TexasTonka]

Andy and I checked mine, got zip ties in place. I did the throttle body position learn like you described but not sure if it worked. No beep or tone to indicate if I did it right.

[Steve M]

If I got frustrated enough, I'd remove it and check for any possible sources of air leaks, including cracks.

[FLATOUT]

Hmmmmmm I had the similar issues at first but everything cleared up after securing the vacuum lines and tightening everything.

[ACRucrazy]

Grab some carb cleaner and spray around the intake ports and TB and vac lines if you think there is a leak? Listen for an increase in RPM.
Easy way to check.
Or maybe a bottle of soapy water and look for bubbles.

[TexasTonka]

Not sure exactly WHAT I did. Went out to the garage today after my drive yesterday... Figured another heat cycle so may as well check the torque once again and yes I got about 1/8 of a turn out of them before a click of the wrench. I tugged on teh the two lines up front to make sure the zip ties were secure. Followed FrgMstr throttle position relearn from post #279 and took it for a quick spin (about 10 miles).

It was like trading in a PT Cruiser for a SRT Charger! The acceleration is back almost 100%. Still not as aggressive as it was when I bought it with 500 miles on it but certainly livable now. Not sure I would be able to hold off any corvettes just yet but a huge step in the right direction.

One thing I was throwing around in my mind was if the throttle relearn is what did it, would the previous owner have done this but not pushed the pedal to the floor basically tricking the Throttle by Wire to think the pedal pushed 3/4 the way down is full throttle simulating a more aggressive throttle response?

The car pushes me back in the seat again so that is a positive, I will take it out soon for a long cruise to check if it is still throwing away fuel. The responsiveness is almost back to where it was.

We are getting there! Just irks me I paid what I did to have it installed and you guys are the ones diagnosing it and helping me fix it! Should of installed the thing myself in the first place!

[FrgMstr]

I have seen a couple people talk about the "pedal trick" to get better throttle response by putting a block under the pedal when doing the relearn. Never tried it though.

[FLATOUT]

Tonka I hate to say it but that's why I do all of my own work. Shops just don't have the time to tweak everything to make it perfect no matter how good they are (most of the time).

[Victxv10]

The 3/4 throttle trick is a temp fix. It works, but the more you drive the car, the computer will reset the throttle to oem position. You have to keep setting it to the 3/4 position. So if yours was done at one time by previous owner, it would have reset to oem by the time you got the intake installed.

[DreadLox]

So page 10 FLATOUT, you mentioned about adding washers? Is that necessary? If its worth the try I'm trying to think what type I should use

[FLATOUT]

So page 10 FLATOUT, you mentioned about adding washers? Is that necessary? If its worth the try I'm trying to think what type I should use

I don't think it hurts if you chose to cut the torque limiters short like I did. The out diameter of the stock hardware is just small enough that it wants to dig into the plastic of the manifold. If you throw a small washer around the base of it, it increases the diameter and clamping force. I did it on mine and felt like the torque sequence was a little more consistant. You can kind of see them in this picture here from my header install.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ZOSICK/MampM6_zps81a7ef16.jpg (http://s111.photobucket.com/user/ZOSICK/media/MampM6_zps81a7ef16.jpg.html)

[Revolution]

Ported Gen 4 is in my future ;)

[FLATOUT]

Ported Gen 4 is in my future ;)

There's a market for both, make sure you do before and after dyno's for us. The Gen V makes better torque gains through the middle.

[Revolution]

There's a market for both, make sure you do before and after dyno's for us. The Gen V makes better torque gains through the middle.
Compared to a ported Gen 4? Any dyno sheets on the same car? I always keep a good record of my changes and hope to on this as well! Did a lower for a friend and it picked up 18Whp on his Gen 4 already :)

[FLATOUT]

Compared to a ported Gen 4? Any dyno sheets on the same car? I always keep a good record of my changes and hope to on this as well! Did a lower for a friend and it picked up 18Whp on his Gen 4 already :) I just remember seeing local cars with a ported gen IV making linear gains but similar gains up top to the Gen V, whereas the Gen V manifolds are making big gains through the middle with similar gains to the Gen IV up top. I do not have back to back runs of both on the same car and same dyno. Definitely interested in your graph overlays.

[Revolution]

Thanks I will post up I'm also working on some block offs and heat shielding ideas that I hope will pay off too, and make it a nice visually appealing piece!

[IndyRon]

I really think that composite intakes are the only way to go at this point in the evolution of N/A performance. Sure, there are some bugs to work out but from a heat soak and weight standpoint it is a no-brainer. The fact that the Gen V intakes are making +25-30rwhp/rwtq in the midrange is huge. That said, it definitely doesn't look as nice as a polished or chromed Gen IV intake topping off the motor when you pop the hood.

[Revolution]

I really think that composite intakes are the only way to go at this point in the evolution of N/A performance. Sure, there are some bugs to work out but from a heat soak and weight standpoint it is a no-brainer. The fact that the Gen V intakes are making +25-30rwhp/rwtq in the midrange is huge. That said, it definitely doesn't look as nice as a polished or chromed Gen IV intake topping off the motor when you pop the hood. Yes I'm looking at doing some coatings etc to help heat soak as well not sure if it well help but going to try!

[IndyRon]

Yes I'm looking at doing some coatings etc to help heat soak as well not sure if it well help but going to try!

You'll get some good power out of it, I'm sure. Please post some graphs for comparison when you get it on the rollers.

[Revolution]

You'll get some good power out of it, I'm sure. Please post some graphs for comparison when you get it on the rollers.

Haven't dyno'd the car yet just 1/4 so far :)

[FrgMstr]

Thought this might be worth an update, since I have put about 500 miles on the car since I put the Gen V intake on. Just got back from a nice 90 drive through some twisty North Texas roads.

I torqued to spec after the initial install, and then after one good heat cycle and cool down, I torqued to spec a second time. I have not touched these again. Everything is running perfect and I am having no issues at all. Anyway, I some of you are wondering about how these are working out over time and wanted to bring my Viper brothers up to date.

I did cut the torque limiters flush with the mating surface as shown below.

http://kylebennett.com/files/hfpics/GenVManiInstall-2.jpg

[FLATOUT]

Excellent! Thanks for the update. This thread needs to be turned into and article in the new Viper Quarterly lol.

Mine also is running great no issues to report.

[Shooter]

I did the same. I haven't had to re torque since the 1st heat cycle. I'll have to get it on the dyno. I just put hi-flow cats on so that will skew my results a bit though.

[IndyRon]

For you guys that have been driving on your Gen V intakes for a while now, do you feel after re-torquing that throttle response has returned to baseline or better or is there still a lag?

[FLATOUT]

For you guys that have been driving on your Gen V intakes for a while now, do you feel after re-torquing that throttle response has returned to baseline or better or is there still a lag?

Mine got much better and at this point it feels like it did with the stock manifold. My issue was caused by the vacume lines under the intake being loose.

[FrgMstr]

Another 100 or so miles on mine. Perfect.

[Back In Black]

I jumped on the GenV intake swap bandwagon today. Huge thanks to Andy and all the others who blazed this trail. Your "lessons learned" were extremely helpful. My install went without a hitch. The most stressful and tedious part of the whole thing was torquing the bolts. I must have gone through torque sequence at least 10 times all the while cringing and pleading with the torque wrench to "click". After having gone through it, I would not go to 106 inch/lbs again. ~85 is more than enough in my opinion given that the torque limiters do nothing to limit torque after trimming them. It seemed like all I was doing once the manifold was fully seated was crushing the plastic.

I made three base dyno pulls after a 30 minute cool down while the car was strapped down and I swapped in the smooth tubes. First pull was 602.xx. Second was 603.xx, and the third was 605.34. I was kind of stunned. Last time I dynoed the car it made 585 or so I thought. This was after installing the Mopar ECU. My before ECU hp was also 585. A 18 hp gain from an underdrive pulley and smooth tubes seemed very optimistic. So I questioned the results and he brought up my previous graphs and low and behold, it pulled 593 last time after the Mopar ECU install. I'm going to examine the graphs again but it looks like I may be eating some crow as I've been bad mouthing the Mopar ECU all this time for a zero hp gain. Apparently, there was some communication breakdown or more likely, I was confused. :( While 8 hp isn't great, it's better than nothing. I was also under the impression that I lost hp everywhere else under the curve. Like I said, I'm going to be studying those graphs again.

On to the swap. It took me two hours. I went for a quick 15 mile spirited drive to make sure everything was okay. Nothing funky happened. No check engine lights, no problems. Strapped her back down on the dyno and waited 30 minutes like the first time. First pull was 616.xx, second 617.xx, third 619.67hp and 593.46tq. Since it kept climbing I gave it a 4th pull to try and top 620 but was denied. Fell back to 617 so I quit. AF was in the 12.5 to 12.7 range at peak hp if I remember correctly. There was a 25hp gain at 4000 rpm. Didn't really look much more in detail. He was very busy today and it's basically a one man shop so I didn't want to waste too much of his time. I'll get him to send me some overlays later. In the meantime, here are the best pulls from today, pre manifold and post manifold.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/krefly/Keithrun3_zpsc49f8097.jpg (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/krefly/media/Keithrun3_zpsc49f8097.jpg.html)

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/krefly/Keithrun6_zpsdd6933a7.jpg (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/krefly/media/Keithrun6_zpsdd6933a7.jpg.html)

My mod progression has been:

M&M headers and my own exhaust system: 585hp 565tq
+K&N replacement air filter and Mopar ECU: 593hp ??tq
+Underdrive pulley and smooth tubes: 605.34hp 577.7 tq
+GenV intake manifold: 619.67hp 592.46 tq

The snake has 12,8xx hard miles on it. I'm very happy to know she's as strong as ever.

All runs have been on the same dyno with the same operator. All numbers are SAE. I asked Todd today if his dyno is generous and he said no, it's on par with other Dynojets.

I wasn't able to dyno the car bone stock unfortunately. M&M needed a Gen4 car to R&D their headers so I let them have it for a month in the winter of '09 just a couple weeks after I bought it. They installed the first set they ever built in my car and they have been in place ever since.

Some pics from today:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/krefly/DSCN3922_zps6272a2f1.jpg (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/krefly/media/DSCN3922_zps6272a2f1.jpg.html)

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/krefly/DSCN3924_zps1d052796.jpg (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/krefly/media/DSCN3924_zps1d052796.jpg.html)

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/krefly/DSCN3925_zpsc6a28720.jpg (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/krefly/media/DSCN3925_zpsc6a28720.jpg.html)

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/krefly/DSCN3928_zps6fa2a497.jpg (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/krefly/media/DSCN3928_zps6fa2a497.jpg.html)

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/krefly/DSCN3929_zpsc86c0dcc.jpg (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/krefly/media/DSCN3929_zpsc86c0dcc.jpg.html)

[FrgMstr]

That is friggin stellar BIB! Thanks for sharing your experience.

FWIW, mine is still kicking ass and taking names with zero issues. Raced the car all day Sunday in the Texas sun without a single hiccup.

[Magnus]

We've done this as well on my Gen4 race car.

We milled down the "torque limiters".
We also had to re-torque it after heat cycles as well.
I picked up about 15hp across the board.
The lower intake air heat saturation is a major benefit of this intake.

-Keith@HPTuners

[ACRucrazy]

Good stuff!

[Mbccenter]

way to go Keith. Those are some great numbers... Now I guess I will have to jump on the bandwagon.

[FLATOUT]

Excellent! Thanks for the update and glad you're happy!

[09redviper]

Nice numbers Back-In-Black. are you going to port your heads ?

[IndyRon]

Excellent results. You 620 guys are making me jealous. Mine is just a stingy *&%ˆ$. I did a write up on this install in another section of the forum. I torque min to 80 in-lbs for exactly the reason you stated and used larger washers under the bolt heads.

[FLATOUT]

Excellent results. You 620 guys are making me jealous. Mine is just a stingy *&%ˆ$. I did a write up on this install in another section of the forum. I torque min to 80 in-lbs for exactly the reason you stated and used larger washers under the bolt heads.

Dyno's vary I doubt yours makes any less than the other cars on here. I dyno'd 15rwhp lower on Hennessey's dyno than I do on the one that I usually use.

[IndyRon]

Dyno's vary I doubt yours makes any less than the other cars on here. I dyno'd 15rwhp lower on Hennessey's dyno than I do on the one that I usually use.

Thanks bro, you may be right. I'll have to get it to the track to really see what it's got. Apparently I'm also in the minority when it comes to the UD pulley as well from the dyno above and others results.

[Back In Black]

Nice numbers Back-In-Black. are you going to port your heads ?

Thanks. I have no plans to touch the engine.


Excellent results. You 620 guys are making me jealous. Mine is just a stingy *&%ˆ$. I did a write up on this install in another section of the forum. I torque min to 80 in-lbs for exactly the reason you stated and used larger washers under the bolt heads.

I did the large washer thing as well thanks to you.


Dyno's vary I doubt yours makes any less than the other cars on here. I dyno'd 15rwhp lower on Hennessey's dyno than I do on the one that I usually use.

Exactly.

[gerch85]

There is a blue gen iv acr at the archer shop with a gen v intake, does the car belongs to any of you guys?

[Back In Black]

There is a blue gen iv acr at the archer shop with a gen v intake, does the car belongs to any of you guys?

Keith Prociuk's car most likely.


http://vimeo.com/68109118

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/166055_10151686388238453_1508116566_n.jpg

[gerch85]

Yup that's the one.

[drviperdds]

Hello everyone, I would like to give a shout out a few members here for the inspiration to do the manifold swap, FLATOUT, INDYRON, FRGMSTR. I did the install, gen V manifold and oil catch can from Radium, over the weekend. I did not disconnect the battery during install and car started back fine without any errors. I ran the car three times now had to re-torqued the bolts after each. 60336034603560366037

[FLATOUT]

Great job Dude!



Hello everyone, I would like to give a shout out a few members here for the inspiration to do the manifold swap, FLATOUT, INDYRON, FRGMSTR. I did the install, gen V manifold and oil catch can from Radium, over the weekend. I did not disconnect the battery during install and car started back fine without any errors. I ran the car three times now had to re-torqued the bolts after each. 60336034603560366037

[IndyRon]

Hello everyone, I would like to give a shout out a few members here for the inspiration to do the manifold swap, FLATOUT, INDYRON, FRGMSTR. I did the install, gen V manifold and oil catch can from Radium, over the weekend. I did not disconnect the battery during install and car started back fine without any errors. I ran the car three times now had to re-torqued the bolts after each. 60336034603560366037

Strong work buddy! I didn't reset my computer either. Keep in mind that it is likely that the factory computer will pull timing on the top end to limit power above 5krpm unless you have the Mopar PCM or aftermarket tune. That said, even with the stock tune, you are still picking up 20/20 in the midrange. Enjoy it!

[FrgMstr]

Hello everyone, I would like to give a shout out a few members here for the inspiration to do the manifold swap, FLATOUT, INDYRON, FRGMSTR. I did the install, gen V manifold and oil catch can from Radium, over the weekend. I did not disconnect the battery during install and car started back fine without any errors. I ran the car three times now had to re-torqued the bolts after each.

Looks right at home with the red! I would suggest there is nothing to be gained by retorquing the bolts though. I retorqued mine ONCE and all has been perfect with it. No sense in putting a lot of extra clamping force on a plastic part since that will cause the material to flow over the long haul. I used to work in the plastics industry and while that composite is not likely to flow much, I still would not want to see it crack either however.

I have had my thumb up my but when it comes to doing my catchcan as it is still sitting on my workbench. I always see those Radium catchcan pics then look at the price and always back up a bit. :)

[drviperdds]

Strong work buddy! I didn't reset my computer either. Keep in mind that it is likely that the factory computer will pull timing on the top end to limit power above 5krpm unless you have the Mopar PCM or aftermarket tune. That said, even with the stock tune, you are still picking up 20/20 in the midrange. Enjoy it!
I have the Mopar PCM installed a couple of years ago, so I should be good without messing with it?

[FrgMstr]

I have the Mopar PCM installed a couple of years ago, so I should be good without messing with it?

The legend goes that after 4 25 mile driving sessions the Mopar PCM should set up to get the best power out of your modification.

[IndyRon]

I have the Mopar PCM installed a couple of years ago, so I should be good without messing with it?

Yep, you are golden. Nice work on the Radium can. Make sure you check the lines at idle to be sure they aren't collapsing under vacuum.

[FrgMstr]

http://ih1.redbubble.net/image.15084099.6828/flat,800x800,070,f.u1.jpg

[FLATOUT]

Haha ^^^^^^^^^

Damn this thread has over 20k views.

[drviperdds]

The legend goes that after 4 25 mile driving sessions the Mopar PCM should set up to get the best power out of your modification.

Looks like I'm gonna have to do some more driving then! :car-smiley-003:

[drviperdds]

Yep, you are golden. Nice work on the Radium can. Make sure you check the lines at idle to be sure they aren't collapsing under vacuum.

Thanks Ron, I was thinking about adding a spring around the hose where it makes a 90 degree bend under the manifold so that it won't have the possibility of kinking over a period of time.

[FrgMstr]

Thanks Ron, I was thinking about adding a spring around the hose where it makes a 90 degree bend under the manifold so that it won't have the possibility of kinking over a period of time.

So you did not buy the new hose that comes off the bottom that is made for the bend? If not I would surely pay attention to that bend.

[drviperdds]

So you did not buy the new hose that comes off the bottom that is made for the bend? If not I would surely pay attention to that bend.

I didn't have the factory hose during the install so I use a universal 5/8 ID tube instead.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

So you did not buy the new hose that comes off the bottom that is made for the bend? If not I would surely pay attention to that bend.

Does anyone have a source or P/N for this hose? Thanks!

[IndyRon]

Does anyone have a source or P/N for this hose? Thanks!

I didn't record the part number, but if I remember correctly it was around $20 and I had to cut mine to length. I just went to the dealership and had them pull up a parts diagram for a '13 car and pointed it out.

[FrgMstr]

Does anyone have a source or P/N for this hose? Thanks!


That hose is cheap ($12?) if I remember correctly, then you need to cut it off and mate the fitting out of the valve cover into it and clamp/ziptie it. Alternatively, just head down to Home Depot and get a hose barb fitting with a 90 degree elbow so you are not fighting a collapse in the radius of that tight turn.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

6099

From what I can tell on a Gen IV the compression limiters only serve the purpose of bolt alignment, and they don't do a great job at that. I was thinking about machining up a part as shown that would replace the OEM part to serve the following purpose:

- More precise bolt alignment (OEM is sloppy)
- Distribute weight across the top surface to reduce potential compression of composite

For those who have installed these, would this have made the installation easier or should I just cut the OEM limiters, get washers to distribute the load and call it a day?

[ACRucrazy]

6099

From what I can tell on a Gen IV the compression limiters only serve the purpose of bolt alignment, and they don't do a great job at that. I was thinking about machining up a part as shown that would replace the OEM part to serve the following purpose:

- More precise bolt alignment (OEM is sloppy)
- Distribute weight across the top surface to reduce potential compression of composite

For those who have installed these, would this have made the installation easier or should I just cut the OEM limiters, get washers to distribute the load and call it a day?

Sounds like a great idea!

[IndyRon]

6099

From what I can tell on a Gen IV the compression limiters only serve the purpose of bolt alignment, and they don't do a great job at that. I was thinking about machining up a part as shown that would replace the OEM part to serve the following purpose:

- More precise bolt alignment (OEM is sloppy)
- Distribute weight across the top surface to reduce potential compression of composite

For those who have installed these, would this have made the installation easier or should I just cut the OEM limiters, get washers to distribute the load and call it a day?

Would definitely make it easier, especially if you can make them indexed as a compression limiter.

[Redx]

6099

From what I can tell on a Gen IV the compression limiters only serve the purpose of bolt alignment, and they don't do a great job at that. I was thinking about machining up a part as shown that would replace the OEM part to serve the following purpose:

- More precise bolt alignment (OEM is sloppy)
- Distribute weight across the top surface to reduce potential compression of composite

For those who have installed these, would this have made the installation easier or should I just cut the OEM limiters, get washers to distribute the load and call it a day?

Any update on these? may be pulling the trigger on a Gen v intake soon!

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Any update on these? may be pulling the trigger on a Gen v intake soon!

Yes, I'm trying to decide if I want to do them. Further analysis revealed that the manifold is not very accurate, it also has a raised section that accepts the screw head. The good news is that the raised section could locate this piece, preventing it from turning, and a compression limiter as shown might be possible. The bad news is that the manifold has +/- 0.030" of error along the weld, basically the bottom aligning with the top.

The other bad news is that depending on quantity, 20 of these will cost $250 - $450 per manifold. I'm not really sure if it is worth it, if they will work, if anyone would buy them.... So I'm trying to decide what I want to do while triple checking my measurements.

6222

[IndyRon]

Yes, I'm trying to decide if I want to do them. Further analysis revealed that the manifold is not very accurate, it also has a raised section that accepts the screw head. The good news is that the raised section could locate this piece, preventing it from turning, and a compression limiter as shown might be possible. The bad news is that the manifold has +/- 0.030" of error along the weld, basically the bottom aligning with the top.

The other bad news is that depending on quantity, 20 of these will cost $250 - $450 per manifold. I'm not really sure if it is worth it, if they will work, if anyone would buy them.... So I'm trying to decide what I want to do while triple checking my measurements.

6222

For that price, I don't think you would be able to make it worthwhile. They would have to be less than $100.

[FrgMstr]

It only took a few hours to hand fit mine with the bevel on the edge. I know that is not for everyone....

[SSGNRDZ_28]

6716

OK guys, I decided to pull the trigger on 2 sets of these. I simplified the design some to reduce the manufacturing cost. I also added flats so that the limiter could be aligned with a 15mm wrench as required. If they work and there is interest they will be between ~$95 and $135 (for a set of 20, black type III anodized), depending on how much interest I have in them.

[Chorps]

6716

OK guys, I decided to pull the trigger on 2 sets of these. I simplified the design some to reduce the manufacturing cost. I also added flats so that the limiter could be aligned with a 15mm wrench as required. If they work and there is interest they will be between ~$95 and $135 (for a set of 20, black type III anodized), depending on how much interest I have in them.

I'd be interested at that price.

[Redx]

I'd be interested at that price.

Same here as well!

[IndyRon]

Doug, great idea at a fair price. One question though, did you check the depth on all the intake bolt holes to confirm? The reason why I ask, is that when I was measuring mine to cut down, I measured different thicknesses for the mounting flange at different points of the intake.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Doug, great idea at a fair price. One question though, did you check the depth on all the intake bolt holes to confirm? The reason why I ask, is that when I was measuring mine to cut down, I measured different thicknesses for the mounting flange at different points of the intake.

Ron,

Yes, the intake has varied thicknesses across the board. This is something that had me on the fence producing these. Measuring for this (10 times over) was driving me nuts and it was not straight forward. I suppose I figured there is no way I could cut them accurately enough by hand so I might as well take an educated guess at a length and at least I would know what I had.

My thought was to have the limiter be slightly shorter than the shortest manifold "thickness" so it would not interfere and prevent a good seal. I'm thinking the "thicker" areas of the manifold with will compress but only to the length of the limiter worst case. So in theory there is going to be varied compression of the intake manifold around each bolt, but the installation should be consistent and prevent too much compression. I'll know more when the parts arrive next month. I will test fit them and measure the gap in length between the intake manifold and limiter and adjust from there as needed.

[IndyRon]

I agree with your thought process, especially considering mine would allow continued deformity of the manifold if continually torqued to 96 in-lbs. That should work great. The key to basically to keep compression on the rubber o-ring on the intake mating surface. I'd like to talk with you about a set once you finish.

[kclark]

6716

OK guys, I decided to pull the trigger on 2 sets of these. I simplified the design some to reduce the manufacturing cost. I also added flats so that the limiter could be aligned with a 15mm wrench as required. If they work and there is interest they will be between ~$95 and $135 (for a set of 20, black type III anodized), depending on how much interest I have in them.

I'd be interested as well

[SSGNRDZ_28]

The prototypes arrived today. Good news / Bad news.

They fit very nicely around the bolt and are snug in the manifold. The bolt does not wobble around at all as with the OEM version. I Think these will work well for their intended purpose. The flats are nice to have to orient the limiter once it is completely pushed into the hole. The bad news is that I want to tweak some of the measurements of the angle to make it a more perfect fit, so that means more waiting before the install.

Right now it looks like about 5 people are interested, here's the price breakdown. If there is more interest the cost will go down for everyone. Note the final version will be anodized black.

QTY 5: $135 / set
QTY 10: $110 / set
QTY 20: $100 / set

[FLATOUT]

Wow that looks great! Well done!

[01sapphirebob]

Yes...Very nice indeed!

Makes me want to pick up a GEN V intake for my GEN IV.

[jvm728]

Just a thought, you may want some wiggle room as torquing down the manifold doesn't happen perfectly square and you can't bank on the mold that makes the parts built as the holes are perfectly in line with head flange bolt holes

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Just a thought, you may want some wiggle room as torquing down the manifold doesn't happen perfectly square and you can't bank on the mold that makes the parts built as the holes are perfectly in line with head flange bolt holes

Thanks for the feedback, I will asses this for the next run. I have noticed these aren't necessarily perfectly aligned within the manifold itself due to the inconsistencies within the plastic, but they will align with some force. I may open up the bolt holes slightly or reduce the outer diameter to allow some wiggle room. The bottom line is that this manifold isn't exact as you are aware so the design needs to accommodate that.

[IndyRon]

Doug,
Looking good! If I could make one suggestion though, I would make the aluminum flange on the inserts at least 1-2mm larger in diameter so as to get as much intake flange purchase and distribute the force over as much of it as possible. My initial washers were about the same diameter as your setup there and they were starting to cut into the plastic even after a couple heat cycles and retorquing at 95 in-lbs. I'd have the insert extend all the way to the edge of the manifold at the shortest edge.

Roughly this size:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c280/rpinieck/image2a_zpsdbceb8fd.jpg (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/rpinieck/media/image2a_zpsdbceb8fd.jpg.html)

That raised surface you see in the bolt hole to the left without an insert in it....that raised part will actually collapse and compress even under 70 in-lbs of torque...that's how soft these manifolds are.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Ron,

Thanks, I'm always open to suggestions. That is good information knowing the raised surface will collapse. That confirms I can make the limiter short enough that torquing down on the bolts will collapse that section but then the limiter will prevent further collapse (the force should be on the limiter at that point). I will look into making the diameter bigger for good measure, my original design was the size you are suggesting but I reduced it not knowing the raised section would collapse.

Thanks to all with experience installing the manifold for the feedback and suggestions.

Doug

[SSGNRDZ_28]

The revised parts arrived today and I was able to test fit them, I'm happy with the results. I took all of the advice into consideration (Ron, I made the diameter as large as possible without raising the cost; jvm, I made the inner diameter larger so that there is slop to account for manifold inconsistencies during installation). I'm going to take them to get anodized tomorrow, hopefully by next weekend I'll be doing the manifold install to confirm they work.

If anyone is still interested (I know of a few that are for sure) I'll be doing a group style purchase in early December assuming all goes well.

76987699

[Mbccenter]

I am interested.

[Dan Cragin]

I am just about to modify the torque limiters for an install, can I get these? 310-597-6295

[TooBlue]

I am interested.


I thought you retired...?

[IndyRon]

Doug,
I'm also interested in a set. Could I get a caliper measurement of the diameter of the limiter face that is torqued down to the manifold?

[FrgMstr]

I am just about to modify the torque limiters for an install, can I get these? 310-597-6295

I trimmed all by hand to fit perfect (http://kylebennett.com/files/hfpics/GenV%20Inteake%20Install%201.jpg). Retorqued one time, never had an issue.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Doug,
I'm also interested in a set. Could I get a caliper measurement of the diameter of the limiter face that is torqued down to the manifold?

Ron,

The max diameter is 0.656" and the flats are 0.590" across.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I am just about to modify the torque limiters for an install, can I get these? 310-597-6295

It was great talking to you Dan, they will ship out today. Looking forward to your feedback!


I trimmed all by hand to fit perfect (http://kylebennett.com/files/hfpics/GenV%20Inteake%20Install%201.jpg). Retorqued one time, never had an issue.

I agree, if you have the time and the skill, hand trimming will work. Your install helped verify the concept (thanks!). Hopefully this product helps those who aren't comfortable doing so, who don't have the time. One benefit from Dan's perspective might be that he doesn't have to wait for each manifold to come in, remove the limiters, have them machined, and then install the manifold - he can have these on the shelf and therefore a quicker turn-around for his customers.

[FrgMstr]

I agree, if you have the time and the skill, hand trimming will work. Your install helped verify the concept (thanks!). Hopefully this product helps those who aren't comfortable doing so, who don't have the time. One benefit from Dan's perspective might be that he doesn't have to wait for each manifold to come in, remove the limiters, have them machined, and then install the manifold - he can have these on the shelf and therefore a quicker turn-around for his customers.


I totally get you on this. Would be nice to have a quick product replacement for sure. For guys that like to get their hands dirty in the garage, and I get that is not all Viper owners by a long shot, surely they can do it themselves. I worked in and around the plastics industry for 10 years, and I was not about to install that intake without those supports, just know what plastic does over time in an environment with huge temperature deltas. Quite frankly, your design with the top flange is better that OE for sure. We are lucky to have guys like your in our community. Kudos!

Funny thing, I found your speaker panel deletes this week after making my own (http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6100-Autoform-2008-Vert-Roll-Bar-Install?p=91158&viewfull=1#post91158). Thanks for nothing! ;)

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I totally get you on this. Would be nice to have a quick product replacement for sure. For guys that like to get their hands dirty in the garage, and I get that is not all Viper owners by a long shot, surely they can do it themselves. I worked in and around the plastics industry for 10 years, and I was not about to install that intake without those supports, just know what plastic does over time in an environment with huge temperature deltas. Quite frankly, your design with the top flange is better that OE for sure. We are lucky to have guys like your in our community. Kudos!

Funny thing, I found your speaker panel deletes this week after making my own (http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6100-Autoform-2008-Vert-Roll-Bar-Install?p=91158&viewfull=1#post91158). Thanks for nothing! ;)

Thanks, Ha! I saw that thread early on, but didn't know you'd be removing your speakers or I would have mentioned something. I guess people can't buy something they don't know exists!

I like getting my hands dirty but I'm not necessarily a skilled fabricator so drawing parts up in CAD and having them manufactured is my preferred approach for things other than the most simple of parts. I know what my strengths and weaknesses are :) .

[Steve M]

Put me solidly in the interested category.

[FastMatt]

The prototypes arrived today. Good news / Bad news.

They fit very nicely around the bolt and are snug in the manifold. The bolt does not wobble around at all as with the OEM version. I Think these will work well for their intended purpose. The flats are nice to have to orient the limiter once it is completely pushed into the hole. The bad news is that I want to tweak some of the measurements of the angle to make it a more perfect fit, so that means more waiting before the install.

Right now it looks like about 5 people are interested, here's the price breakdown. If there is more interest the cost will go down for everyone. Note the final version will be anodized black.

QTY 5: $135 / set
QTY 10: $110 / set
QTY 20: $100 / set

I will take a set of you still have some.

[Chorps]

The revised parts arrived today and I was able to test fit them, I'm happy with the results. I took all of the advice into consideration (Ron, I made the diameter as large as possible without raising the cost; jvm, I made the inner diameter larger so that there is slop to account for manifold inconsistencies during installation). I'm going to take them to get anodized tomorrow, hopefully by next weekend I'll be doing the manifold install to confirm they work.

If anyone is still interested (I know of a few that are for sure) I'll be doing a group style purchase in early December assuming all goes well.

76987699

Still interested :D

[TexasTonka]

I'm interested in a set as well

[TooBlue]

Please add me to the list.

Thanks again SSGNRDZ_28 for taking the time to make these. These will be going on a track car which as you know goes to the extremes of hot/cool periods 4-5 times a day. Ideal situations for possible problems maintaining bolt torque on a plastic part.

Not to be rushing you in any way but when do you think these might be ready?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

No problem. Right now I'm waiting on either Dan or myself to confirm they fit well and go through the entire install process to account for anything unexpected. That will probably be next week at the earliest.

If that all goes well I'll go ahead with the production run. That usually takes 4-6 weeks, if anyone doesn't want anodizing I can send them out about 1 week quicker. That puts us at the end of December or early January. Right now it looks like I have interest in 9-10 sets.

[TexasTonka]

No problem. Right now I'm waiting on either Dan or myself to confirm they fit well and go through the entire install process to account for anything unexpected. That will probably be next week at the earliest.

If that all goes well I'll go ahead with the production run. That usually takes 4-6 weeks, if anyone doesn't want anodizing I can send them out about 1 week quicker. That puts us at the end of December or early January. Right now it looks like I have interest in 9-10 sets.

How did the installs go? Ready to install a GenV intake on my replacement ACR. I had an SRT shop install my last Gen V intake on my other ACR, then cut them down by hand and i had to re torque the intake a few times to get it to finally seat. This part looks great and if it works on teh car as in theory I am all for it to install my intake on the new car.

I have ordered a new GenV intake for the replacement ACR and do have a quick question. The intake I bought and installed on my ACR last year was part# 5038554AD, that part number has been replaced with #5038554AE. I am sure all your measurements and data are off the AD part number as the AE replaced it for 2015. Does anyone know what the change is in the intakes? Will your parts work in the new part number?

I can't see them changing the bolt flanges of the intake at all, I am thinking they may have increase or 'ported' the intake itself a bit requiring a new part number to be established and justifying the 5hp increase in the 2015 stats?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

My parts came back from anodize late on Wednesday and I'm out of town until Saturday so I've not had time to do the install. I haven't heard from Dan so I'm not sure if he was able to make progress.

As for the new manifold P/N I'm not sure, please report back on any differences when you receive it, if need be I can send you a sample part (I have a few extra) to confirm they will fit.

Thanks for your interest and paitence.

Doug

[TexasTonka]

My parts came back from anodize late on Wednesday and I'm out of town until Saturday so I've not had time to do the install. I haven't heard from Dan so I'm not sure if he was able to make progress.

As for the new manifold P/N I'm not sure, please report back on any differences when you receive it, if need be I can send you a sample part (I have a few extra) to confirm they will fit.

Thanks for your interest and paitence.

Doug

Will do- part should be here next week.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

OK, I was able to do the install tonight and even sneak in a test drive as its 50 degrees here today. Thanks to all of the "pioneers" here who shared their experiences and helped my install go smoothly. No codes, no issues as of yet. I'll check the bolts again in the morning to see if they require tightening again.

The limiters seemed to work well. One tweak I will probably do for the next run is increase the bolt hole size even further to allow for slop in the manifold, some of the bolts were harder than others to align on the initial fit. Looking straight down the hole it was clear that they were off center due to the inconsistency in the manifold. This said, I was still able to do the install. This change would just make the install go quicker IMO.

One thing that may go without saying is that after I torqued down all of the bolts in the recommended pattern I went back again to confirm all were torqued and many required ~1/4 turn more. I'm not sure if anyone else did this, if not, this may account for some of the bolts being out of spec after a heat cycle.

Some photos attached (forgive the rough catch can plumbing). Man that old intake feels HEAVY, on my scale this mod saves roughly 11.4 lbs.

78867887788878897890

[01sapphirebob]

Awesome news. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do with my car. This may be the way to go. :)

[Steve M]

Just let me know when you get the next revised batch in...still very much interested.

[FrgMstr]

One thing that may go without saying is that after I torqued down all of the bolts in the recommended pattern I went back again to confirm all were torqued and many required ~1/4 turn more. I'm not sure if anyone else did this, if not, this may account for some of the bolts being out of spec after a heat cycle.

I cut my angle to match on my torque limiters and this is exactly what I did. One heat cycle after install. Let it cool. Re-torqued one time. Has been perfect since.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Thanks, just an update on my install, after one heat cycle each bolt required 0-1/4 turn of tightening (when cool) to get back to spec. I probably won't get too much more driving done until the spring.

For all who are interested, I ordered a batch today, they will be available in early January.

[TexasTonka]

Thanks, just an update on my install, after one heat cycle each bolt required 0-1/4 turn of tightening (when cool) to get back to spec. I probably won't get too much more driving done until the spring.

For all who are interested, I ordered a batch today, they will be available in early January.

Save a set for me please, would like to try it out on the new part number GenV intake asap.

[slowhatch]

Save a set for me please, would like to try it out on the new part number GenV intake asap.

Kurt do you know whats different on the "new" PN intake?

[Mbccenter]

Yup still interested.

[FastMatt]

me too, I will take a set

[TexasTonka]

Kurt do you know whats different on the "new" PN intake?

I do not. But it will be waiting for me on Thursday when I get back to Texas. I can see any difference I'll post it here.

[Redx]

Put me down for a set too!

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Just to update everyone, as of now I have interest in these from the following:

Mbccenter
IndyRon
Steve M
FastMatt
Chorps
Redx
Texas Tonka
TooBlue
Kclark
2 x Dan Cragin

They are available for preorder here:

http://dougshelbyengineering.com/Viper.html

More Information Here:

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6391-DSE-VP-CL-001-SRT-10-Gen-V-Intake-Manifold-Compression-Limiters

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6364-Gen-5-to-Gen-4-Intake-Manifold-install-Thanks-Doug-Shelby

If you would like to preorder, please let me know your screen name as well so I can ensure those that have expressed interest receive a set from the first batch. The expected shipping date is the week of January 12. Thanks to all.

Doug

[drviperdds]

I'm in for a set. Thanks

[Chorps]

Just to update everyone, as of now I have interest in these from the following:

Mbccenter
IndyRon
Steve M
FastMatt
Chorps
Redx
Texas Tonka
TooBlue
Kclark
2 x Dan Cragin

They are available for preorder here:

http://dougshelbyengineering.com/Viper.html

More Information Here:

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...ssion-Limiters

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...ks-Doug-Shelby

If you would like to preorder, please let me know your screen name as well so I can ensure those that have expressed interest receive a set from the first batch. The expected shipping date is the week of January 12. Thanks to all.

Doug

URL for the forums are clipped. Fixed below.

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6391-DSE-VP-CL-001-SRT-10-Gen-V-Intake-Manifold-Compression-Limiters

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6390-P-N-DSE-VP-CC-001-SRT-10-Non-Invasive-Radium-Engineering-Catch-Can-Mounting-Bracket

[SSGNRDZ_28]

URL for the forums are clipped. Fixed below.

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6391-DSE-VP-CL-001-SRT-10-Gen-V-Intake-Manifold-Compression-Limiters

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6390-P-N-DSE-VP-CC-001-SRT-10-Non-Invasive-Radium-Engineering-Catch-Can-Mounting-Bracket

Fixed above as well. I need an editor sometimes, thanks. :)

[TexasTonka]

Just to update everyone, as of now I have interest in these from the following:

Mbccenter
IndyRon
Steve M
FastMatt
Chorps
Redx
Texas Tonka
TooBlue
Kclark
2 x Dan Cragin

They are available for preorder here:

http://dougshelbyengineering.com/Viper.html

More Information Here:

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6391-DSE-VP-CL-001-SRT-10-Gen-V-Intake-Manifold-Compression-Limiters

http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6364-Gen-5-to-Gen-4-Intake-Manifold-install-Thanks-Doug-Shelby

If you would like to preorder, please let me know your screen name as well so I can ensure those that have expressed interest receive a set from the first batch. The expected shipping date is the week of January 12. Thanks to all.

Doug

Done and paid for, thanks for providing a solution for this Doug. It is great vendors like yourself that take the time and do the R&D for items like this which are ultra low volume specialty parts.

[FastMatt]

Pre-ordered mine just now.

[Mbccenter]

Paid. Now I need to get a intake.

[Redx]

Paid. Now I need to get a intake.

same, group buy?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Done and paid for, thanks for providing a solution for this Doug. It is great vendors like yourself that take the time and do the R&D for items like this which are ultra low volume specialty parts.

No problem, I enjoy it so it doesn't seem like work. Surprisingly some of these Viper parts are even lower volume than IndyCar parts. ;)


Pre-ordered mine just now.


Paid. Now I need to get a intake.


I'm in for a set. Thanks

Thanks everyone for the pre-orders!

[Mbccenter]

same, group buy?

Not a bad idea.

[Chorps]

Not a bad idea.

Count me in as well. If someone is putting this together, maybe include the 2013 hose PCV hose line in the Group Buy?

[XSnake]

With production starting up again it might be tough getting the newer manifolds since the factory will be using them. Maybe a group buy through one of the sponsoring dealerships???

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Off to anodize... I have boxes ready to ship out next week as soon as they are done for those who have already ordered.

8309

[FrgMstr]

Those look hella sweet Dough. Nice work.

[Steve M]

Off to anodize... I have boxes ready to ship out next week as soon as they are done for those who have already ordered.

8309

Forgot all about this...thanks for the update/reminder.

[FastMatt]

So has anybody figured out if there are changes to the new part # "gen 5" intake? Is thats whats giving the 2015's the extra 5hp?

[Steve M]

So has anybody figured out if there are changes to the new part # "gen 5" intake? Is thats whats giving the 2015's the extra 5hp?

From what I understand, the change in HP was simply a change in how it is measured, similar to when the Gen 3s got a HP "bump" due to a change in the standards.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

All of the preorders shipped today. You will have them within 3 days (6-10 for the guys in Canada) Thanks again!

[Chorps]

Sweet, thanks! Now...to find a Gen V intake...