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View Full Version : Gen 5 - Oil Filter Change 101



Jack B
05-13-2014, 03:59 PM
Most of you are going to get bored, however, the following may help the NEWBE's.

If anyone wants to add and/or correct, please do so.

1. The manual says 11 quarts of 0W-40, be careful about just dropping in 11 quarts - a level that is a little high is at least as bad as a level that is a little low. My guess is a lot of us will be running 10W-40 and not the 0W-40.

2. The mopar race filter is M0-041. The full # is 503B041AA. That is a proven filter and probably the best way to go.

3. The drain plug is a 13 MM and the torque is 20 ft lbs per the Gen % shop manual.

4. If you pre-fill the filter it takes a little less than 16 oz or one pint.

5. If you wait 30 minutes for the oil to discharge, you will remove an additional 16 oz, or one pint beyond a five minute wait.

6. I put in 10 quarts and the oil was at the bottom of the "safe" range. I waited 30 more minutes and the level was 1/3 from the top of the "safe' range. Make sure the oil level is in the safe range before you start the car. Let the car run, shut it down and then check it again, it will drop. Keep in mind it is not good to over fill any car, this causes aeration of the oil.

7. IMPORTANT - You have to read the correct side of the dip stick. The correct reading is the lower level, read both sides of the dipstick. A trick is to take a file and score the diptstick on the unmarked side at the top and bottom of the "safe range". This allows you to read the the level correctly when the lower oil mark comes up on the unmarked side.

I just came back from a ride and checked the level 30 minutes after I shut it off. The ten quart fill brought the level a little below the top "Safe" mark. If you read above, this is after draining the oil for thirty minutes. If I would have drained it for five minutes it would taken approximately 10 quarts. The car was on the lift and that is as level as it get.

Last night I slowly added oil, then, kept checking the level, I was able to 10.5 quarts into the engine and that brought it right at the top "Safe" mark. In conclusion, the 11 quart recommended fill is pretty close, you just have to make sure you get all the old oil out of the engine.

I am not suggesting you limit the fill anything less than the recommended eleven qts, just be cautious on how you fill the car. An over fill costs hp and can also cause damage.

2snakes
05-13-2014, 05:45 PM
is it 05038041AA ??

sharmut
05-13-2014, 06:51 PM
Yes, Oil Filer Part# 5038041AA.

@ JackB,

My local dealer printed out a copy of the their Oil Change procedure for 2014 Viper.
It specifies the following:
- Drain Plug in Oil Pan tighten to 34Nm (25 ft. lbs).
- Oil Filter tighten to 18Nm (13 ft. lbs).

Indeed the markings on the dip stick are not so easy to read, good idea on scoring the lines.

Jack B
05-13-2014, 07:22 PM
Yes, I looked on the box, That filter is the same for 2008 to present.


is it 05038041AA ??

Jack B
05-13-2014, 07:32 PM
The Gen5 shop manual says 20 ft lbs. I have it in front of me. With a lubricated thread, 25 ft lbs sounds high. You have to reduce the torque by approx 30-40% when you lube the thread, especially in aluminum. Look at your spark plugs, they are a similar diameter and the spec is 14 ft lbs. The shop manual does say 13 ft lbs for the filter.

I think the Gen 4 oil drain plug was 25 ft lbs, i don't know why they would change it. Maybe someone with a Gen 4 can answer if the 25 ft lbs for the G4 is correct. Maybe Mark J can comment on the 20 ft lbs in the manual.



Yes, Oil Filer Part# 5038041AA.

@ JackB,

My local dealer printed out a copy of the their Oil Change procedure for 2014 Viper.
It specifies the following:
- Drain Plug in Oil Pan tighten to 34Nm (25 ft. lbs).
- Oil Filter tighten to 18Nm (13 ft. lbs).

Indeed the markings on the dip stick are not so easy to read, good idea on scoring the lines.

Voice of Reason
05-13-2014, 07:57 PM
Has anyone ever had a drain plug fall out from lack of torque? I'm all for checking torque specs on a lot of things but I'm scratching my head here.

Jack B
05-13-2014, 08:09 PM
My wife had her car serviced (including oil change) at the dealer when it was new and when she brought it home I saw it was leaking, the drain plug was loose. Our cars are a bit more complicated there is a soft rubber-like gasket between the pan and the bolt head.

IMHO when you are fastening into aluminum it becomes far more important.



Has anyone ever had a drain plug fall out from lack of torque? I'm all for checking torque specs on a lot of things but I'm scratching my head here.

Simms
06-21-2014, 10:04 AM
Jack,
I'm curious, did you go Mobil 1 or Pennzoil?

cashcorn
06-21-2014, 12:43 PM
Newb, checking in. Jack B THANKS!! This is really why I'm a member. So much great info..

Jack B
06-21-2014, 01:39 PM
I use Royal Purple 10w40 HPS. I still cannot get 11 qts into the car without showing a 1/2 qt high.


Newb, checking in. Jack B THANKS!! This is really why I'm a member. So much great info..

ViperSmith
06-21-2014, 01:56 PM
Jack, and numbers with your IAT fix yet?

Jack B
06-21-2014, 09:00 PM
The difference between ambient and IAT have been averaging between 10 and 15 degrees when the car is moving. Another difference is that the differential takes much longer to get to the max spread.


Jack, and numbers with your IAT fix yet?