MADMAX
11-02-2013, 04:16 AM
Here’s a little job I did back in the Winter of 2008/9.
I got tired of oil leaks messing up my garage floor so decided to replace the rear crankshaft oil seal this winter and wanted to share my experience.
Before I get into too much detail though I’d firstly like to say a big thanks to Chuck, Baz UK, Phil E UK and Dave6666 for their technical support/help, without which this job would have turned into a huge pile of ……!!!
BEFORE
http://i42.tinypic.com/30vjeyq.jpg
DURING
http://i43.tinypic.com/308czh0.jpg
AFTER
http://i40.tinypic.com/4l15ko.jpg
I hope you find this helpful but please remember this is my own opinion of the job and how I did it – you may have your own ideas. For instance, you might want to try this job without removing the gearbox but by slide it back in the transmission tunnel instead OR not removing so many of the gearbox instruments – your choice. Whatever you do good luck and stay safe.
Summary details of this job can be found in the Chrysler Corp service manual, SR29 for the 1996 Coupe. I’ve also taken many torque settings directly from this service manual.
General
• No need to remove engine oil pan
• No need to drain gearbox oil
• No need to remove center console trim from inside the car or damage gear shifter boots
• All threaded fasteners are right handed threads - no left handed surprises
• I’ve used US Socket/wrench sizes but you may wish to use metric equivalents, especially for 19/32” i.e. 15mm.
Safety
• Exercise caution when working underneath vehicles
• Always use axle stands if the vehicle is jacked up – never work under a vehicle suspended only by jacks
• Exercise caution when manipulating the gearbox - remember its 70kg
• Wear Light Eye Protection (Safety Glasses) when appropriate
• Wear Gloves when appropriate
• Maintain cleanliness at all times during both disassembly AND reassembly
Tools
• Trolley jack
• Viper screw jack – to raise the engine
• Small scissor lift and set of casters - alternatively use your trolley jack
• Axle stands – sized to gain enough clearance to remove gearbox
• Wrenches
• ¾” crow foot wrench or short wrench (3” max) – to remove gear shifter isolator
• ½” socket set
• Extra ½” socket set extension bars - to reach up to 36” - aides gearbox removal especially those ‘difficult to reach’ top bolts
• Torque wrench(s)
• Universal clutch alignment tool
• Wire brush
• 18mm dia x 150mm long brass bar – to remove old pilot bearing
• Plastic milk carton (special tool) – for fitting new oil seal over rear crankshaft end
Materials
• New rear crankshaft oil seal
• New pilot bearing (input-shaft bearing)
• New rear seal retainer gasket
• PTFE tape – backup switch
• RTV
• Loctite 242 (UK equivalent 270)
• De-greasing fluid
• DOT 4
• Clean rags
• General purpose grease
• Emery cloth
• Clingfilm
1. Remove gear shifter
o From drivers seat, ease the gear-shifter boot down to reveal locknut
o Release locknut and remove gear-shifter knob
http://i40.tinypic.com/2hcj885.jpg
2. Lift/jack vehicle
o Lift high enough to give clearance to drop gearbox out and away – 24” should be fine
o Support vehicle on axle stands – NEVER work under a vehicle suspended only by jack(s)
http://i44.tinypic.com/28h3iiu.jpg
3. Remove under body stone shield
o With 19/32” wrench/socket, unscrew and remove 12 hex bolts
http://i44.tinypic.com/15me2yc.jpg
4. Remove clutch inspection cover
o With 7/16” wrench/socket, unscrew 4 hex bolts and remove cover to reveal flywheel
http://i40.tinypic.com/11i321t.jpg
5. Vent pressure in clutch hydraulics
o With 7/16” wrench, unscrew the master cylinder bleed screw ¼” turn to vent any trapped pressure then re-tighten
http://i44.tinypic.com/w1zrrl.jpg
6. Disconnect clutch quick connector
o With 11/16” wrench, slide the quick connector white collar inwards
o Push it in flush with the black collar so the connector separates
o Alternatively use Dodge/Chrysler special tool 6638
o Secure coupling out of harms way
http://i42.tinypic.com/29ygiea.jpg
7. Remove drive shaft
o Mark orientation of universal joint before removing
o With 5/16” socket/wrench, remove 4 hex bolts
o Remove 2 straps
o Pry the universal joint apart – the drive shaft will slide forwards on the gearbox main shaft
o Remove drive shaft by sliding backwards off the main shaft
o Cover hole in gearbox to prevent dirt ingress
o Cover both ends of drive shaft to prevent contamination
o NOTE: The drive shaft will be refitted during gearbox removal to prevent oil leakage
http://i41.tinypic.com/2udv0b9.jpg
8. Remove backup switch
o May be required to improve access and prevent damaging the switch
o Located on the passenger side of the gearbox
o Disconnect switch electrical connector
o With 7/8” ring wrench, remove switch – tight access means this job is ¼” turn at a time
o Cover hole as soon as possible to prevent dirt ingress
9. Remove reverse lockout solenoid
o Required to improve access and prevent damage
o Located on the back of the gearbox, drivers side
o Disconnect solenoid electrical connector
o With ½” socket/wrench, unscrew the solenoid retaining bolt and remove solenoid assembly
o Cover hole to prevent dirt ingress
10. Disconnect speed sensor and skip shift electrical connectors
o Located in front reverse lockout solenoid
http://i44.tinypic.com/mj1e1v.jpg
11. Remove transmission cross-member
o With 19/32” socket, remove the transmission cross-member centre nut
o Install Viper jack underneath the engine oil pan/sump and gently raise the engine just enough for the transmission to lift clear of the transmission cross-member
o Remove transmission cross-member with 19/32” wrench and socket
o Lower the engine/transmission enough to improve access on top the gearbox (approximately 2”) but do not allow engine/transmission to hang unsupported
o Ease the gear shift boot away from the isolator to prevent damage
http://i44.tinypic.com/xbypk.jpg
12. Remove gear shifter isolator
o Doing this now will greatly simplify gearbox removal although it is not essential (the box can be removed with the isolate still fitted)
o If you are not removing the gearbox but sliding it back in the transmission tunnel, the isolator needs removing now
o With a short ¾” wrench (3”) or crows foot wrench remove gear shifter isolator
13. Remove gearbox – this cannot be done in one simple move – the gear box needs to be edged out slowly and the back tilted downwards
o This step (and step 25 to replace the gearbox) were the only steps I could not do on my own
http://i42.tinypic.com/2ut3uoh.jpg
o Support weight of gearbox with scissor lift or trolley jack
o With 19/32” socket, remove 8 gearbox to bell housing retaining bolts – some bolts need to be accessed from the drive shaft end of the gearbox using ½” extension bars joined together
o Ensure you are disconnecting the gearbox to bell housing bolts and not bell housing to engine bolts
http://i42.tinypic.com/nwlyxf.jpg
o Pry gearbox from bell housing – there is a pry point on the driver side just above the clutch bleed screw
o Keeping the gearbox horizontal and pull backwards – confirm the weight is uniformly supported
http://i42.tinypic.com/2ypkkna.jpg
o Check that the input shaft is free of the clutch plate - look between bell housing and gearbox - the gearbox should move backwards about 3” before it hits with the transmission cross-member brackets
http://i41.tinypic.com/rtkd5c.jpg
o Refit the drive shaft to avoid spilling transmission oil – secure in place with cable ties or something to avoid it sliding out
http://i41.tinypic.com/2gvo9cj.jpg
o Complete gearbox removal by repetitively lowering gearbox and tipping the drive shaft end downwards, ensuring the input shaft remains clear of the clutch pressure plate
http://i39.tinypic.com/1zviqf.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/1zviqf.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/1zviqf.jpg
I got tired of oil leaks messing up my garage floor so decided to replace the rear crankshaft oil seal this winter and wanted to share my experience.
Before I get into too much detail though I’d firstly like to say a big thanks to Chuck, Baz UK, Phil E UK and Dave6666 for their technical support/help, without which this job would have turned into a huge pile of ……!!!
BEFORE
http://i42.tinypic.com/30vjeyq.jpg
DURING
http://i43.tinypic.com/308czh0.jpg
AFTER
http://i40.tinypic.com/4l15ko.jpg
I hope you find this helpful but please remember this is my own opinion of the job and how I did it – you may have your own ideas. For instance, you might want to try this job without removing the gearbox but by slide it back in the transmission tunnel instead OR not removing so many of the gearbox instruments – your choice. Whatever you do good luck and stay safe.
Summary details of this job can be found in the Chrysler Corp service manual, SR29 for the 1996 Coupe. I’ve also taken many torque settings directly from this service manual.
General
• No need to remove engine oil pan
• No need to drain gearbox oil
• No need to remove center console trim from inside the car or damage gear shifter boots
• All threaded fasteners are right handed threads - no left handed surprises
• I’ve used US Socket/wrench sizes but you may wish to use metric equivalents, especially for 19/32” i.e. 15mm.
Safety
• Exercise caution when working underneath vehicles
• Always use axle stands if the vehicle is jacked up – never work under a vehicle suspended only by jacks
• Exercise caution when manipulating the gearbox - remember its 70kg
• Wear Light Eye Protection (Safety Glasses) when appropriate
• Wear Gloves when appropriate
• Maintain cleanliness at all times during both disassembly AND reassembly
Tools
• Trolley jack
• Viper screw jack – to raise the engine
• Small scissor lift and set of casters - alternatively use your trolley jack
• Axle stands – sized to gain enough clearance to remove gearbox
• Wrenches
• ¾” crow foot wrench or short wrench (3” max) – to remove gear shifter isolator
• ½” socket set
• Extra ½” socket set extension bars - to reach up to 36” - aides gearbox removal especially those ‘difficult to reach’ top bolts
• Torque wrench(s)
• Universal clutch alignment tool
• Wire brush
• 18mm dia x 150mm long brass bar – to remove old pilot bearing
• Plastic milk carton (special tool) – for fitting new oil seal over rear crankshaft end
Materials
• New rear crankshaft oil seal
• New pilot bearing (input-shaft bearing)
• New rear seal retainer gasket
• PTFE tape – backup switch
• RTV
• Loctite 242 (UK equivalent 270)
• De-greasing fluid
• DOT 4
• Clean rags
• General purpose grease
• Emery cloth
• Clingfilm
1. Remove gear shifter
o From drivers seat, ease the gear-shifter boot down to reveal locknut
o Release locknut and remove gear-shifter knob
http://i40.tinypic.com/2hcj885.jpg
2. Lift/jack vehicle
o Lift high enough to give clearance to drop gearbox out and away – 24” should be fine
o Support vehicle on axle stands – NEVER work under a vehicle suspended only by jack(s)
http://i44.tinypic.com/28h3iiu.jpg
3. Remove under body stone shield
o With 19/32” wrench/socket, unscrew and remove 12 hex bolts
http://i44.tinypic.com/15me2yc.jpg
4. Remove clutch inspection cover
o With 7/16” wrench/socket, unscrew 4 hex bolts and remove cover to reveal flywheel
http://i40.tinypic.com/11i321t.jpg
5. Vent pressure in clutch hydraulics
o With 7/16” wrench, unscrew the master cylinder bleed screw ¼” turn to vent any trapped pressure then re-tighten
http://i44.tinypic.com/w1zrrl.jpg
6. Disconnect clutch quick connector
o With 11/16” wrench, slide the quick connector white collar inwards
o Push it in flush with the black collar so the connector separates
o Alternatively use Dodge/Chrysler special tool 6638
o Secure coupling out of harms way
http://i42.tinypic.com/29ygiea.jpg
7. Remove drive shaft
o Mark orientation of universal joint before removing
o With 5/16” socket/wrench, remove 4 hex bolts
o Remove 2 straps
o Pry the universal joint apart – the drive shaft will slide forwards on the gearbox main shaft
o Remove drive shaft by sliding backwards off the main shaft
o Cover hole in gearbox to prevent dirt ingress
o Cover both ends of drive shaft to prevent contamination
o NOTE: The drive shaft will be refitted during gearbox removal to prevent oil leakage
http://i41.tinypic.com/2udv0b9.jpg
8. Remove backup switch
o May be required to improve access and prevent damaging the switch
o Located on the passenger side of the gearbox
o Disconnect switch electrical connector
o With 7/8” ring wrench, remove switch – tight access means this job is ¼” turn at a time
o Cover hole as soon as possible to prevent dirt ingress
9. Remove reverse lockout solenoid
o Required to improve access and prevent damage
o Located on the back of the gearbox, drivers side
o Disconnect solenoid electrical connector
o With ½” socket/wrench, unscrew the solenoid retaining bolt and remove solenoid assembly
o Cover hole to prevent dirt ingress
10. Disconnect speed sensor and skip shift electrical connectors
o Located in front reverse lockout solenoid
http://i44.tinypic.com/mj1e1v.jpg
11. Remove transmission cross-member
o With 19/32” socket, remove the transmission cross-member centre nut
o Install Viper jack underneath the engine oil pan/sump and gently raise the engine just enough for the transmission to lift clear of the transmission cross-member
o Remove transmission cross-member with 19/32” wrench and socket
o Lower the engine/transmission enough to improve access on top the gearbox (approximately 2”) but do not allow engine/transmission to hang unsupported
o Ease the gear shift boot away from the isolator to prevent damage
http://i44.tinypic.com/xbypk.jpg
12. Remove gear shifter isolator
o Doing this now will greatly simplify gearbox removal although it is not essential (the box can be removed with the isolate still fitted)
o If you are not removing the gearbox but sliding it back in the transmission tunnel, the isolator needs removing now
o With a short ¾” wrench (3”) or crows foot wrench remove gear shifter isolator
13. Remove gearbox – this cannot be done in one simple move – the gear box needs to be edged out slowly and the back tilted downwards
o This step (and step 25 to replace the gearbox) were the only steps I could not do on my own
http://i42.tinypic.com/2ut3uoh.jpg
o Support weight of gearbox with scissor lift or trolley jack
o With 19/32” socket, remove 8 gearbox to bell housing retaining bolts – some bolts need to be accessed from the drive shaft end of the gearbox using ½” extension bars joined together
o Ensure you are disconnecting the gearbox to bell housing bolts and not bell housing to engine bolts
http://i42.tinypic.com/nwlyxf.jpg
o Pry gearbox from bell housing – there is a pry point on the driver side just above the clutch bleed screw
o Keeping the gearbox horizontal and pull backwards – confirm the weight is uniformly supported
http://i42.tinypic.com/2ypkkna.jpg
o Check that the input shaft is free of the clutch plate - look between bell housing and gearbox - the gearbox should move backwards about 3” before it hits with the transmission cross-member brackets
http://i41.tinypic.com/rtkd5c.jpg
o Refit the drive shaft to avoid spilling transmission oil – secure in place with cable ties or something to avoid it sliding out
http://i41.tinypic.com/2gvo9cj.jpg
o Complete gearbox removal by repetitively lowering gearbox and tipping the drive shaft end downwards, ensuring the input shaft remains clear of the clutch pressure plate
http://i39.tinypic.com/1zviqf.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/1zviqf.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/1zviqf.jpg