Drilling holes in the trunk lid question

[Cash1333]

I am installing a APR wing, airdam and canards. And as it relates to the trunk. For people who have done it. What was the easiest way in the drilling holes in the trunk lid. Without messing up the carbon weave etc?

Thanks!

[chris_lee]

You didn’t happen to pull off a TA wing did ya? Looking for one

[Cash1333]

I do not.

[Pappy]

I have cut and drilled several Viper panels for various reasons. I just tape over the spot I intend to drill into with a good quality automotive masking tape - not hardware store stuff. Does the APR wing mount in the same place on the deck lid as the factory ACR piece? You will notice there is an indent in the bottom, interior carbon fiber panel of the deck lid where the wing is intended to mount. This area gives the greatest area of strength potential. I added a carbon fiber, dog bone-shaped reinforcement when I added an ACR wing to Cable's 9L track car, but it probably wasn't necessary. I would add the factory rubber blocks along the perimeter of the deck lid opening that the ACR uses. A couple of photos follow, plus an unrelated photo of the carbon fiber headlight blanks I am building for Cable's twin turbo car - it shows the automotive grade masking tape I use - available at automotive paint stores.

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[Hawk]

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/27797-TA-to-ACR-conversion?highlight=conversion

This link may help. Tape like Pappy says and drill a small pilot hole to confirm the location

[Pappy]

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/27797-TA-to-ACR-conversion?highlight=conversion

This link may help. Tape like Pappy says and drill a small pilot hole to confirm the location

Agree, and I also suggest using a step bit rather than a regular drill bit. It is like a small hole saw and doesn't chip the paint as easily.

[Cash1333]

Agree, and I also suggest using a step bit rather than a regular drill bit. It is like a small hole saw and doesn't chip the paint as easily.

I do believe it used the same points as the acr, did you drill from the top down or bottom up? Like inside the trunk or outside the trunk?

[Hawk]

The underside support (dog Bone) had holes in it that was the template so I drilled from the bottom up with my pilot hole and drilled the finish size from the top down so I would not chance chipping paint when the bit comes thru. When I cut my hood vent holes with a jig saw I did not have any paint chipping at all with the tape and I wasn’t going too easy cutting it as I sanded the finish cut out to the final size. This picture is the cut before I sanded it


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[Pappy]

I do believe it used the same points as the acr, did you drill from the top down or bottom up? Like inside the trunk or outside the trunk?

I drilled top down with tape on both sides. No chipping. When I cut the fender holes I use a high-speed cutoff wheel and then a flapper wheel to sand the corners to shape. I'm getting ready to cut another set (my third) in the hood for Cable's twin turbo car. One thing I noticed is that after you cut the holes, there is a very thin edge to the carbon fiber that does not have paint - almost imperceivable. On my factory ACR I have minor paint chips in that edge because the factory paint wraps over the edge and when you track with the louvers removed they get hit by gravel coming off of the tires. I don't see that same tendency to chip in the hoods that have the holes cut with no repainting.

[Cash1333]

I drilled top down with tape on both sides. No chipping. When I cut the fender holes I use a high-speed cutoff wheel and then a flapper wheel to sand the corners to shape. I'm getting ready to cut another set (my third) in the hood for Cable's twin turbo car. One thing I noticed is that after you cut the holes, there is a very thin edge to the carbon fiber that does not have paint - almost imperceivable. On my factory ACR I have minor paint chips in that edge because the factory paint wraps over the edge and when you track with the louvers removed they get hit by gravel coming off of the tires. I don't see that same tendency to chip in the hoods that have the holes cut with no repainting.

My fault I meant the trunk for the wing. Did you go top down or bottom up?

[Hawk]

The same applies no matter where you cut or drill a hole was my point. Good tape job and a quality bit, the base of the stanchions are big enough to cover tiny chips if it even happens
Just make sure you DO NOT use a pilot point bit they are too aggressive
Like Nike says "Just do it

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[Pappy]

[QUOTE=Hawk;467274]The same applies no matter where you cut or drill a hole was my point. Good tape job and a quality bit, the base of the stanchions are big enough to cover tiny chips if it even happens

Agree with Hawk.

[Cash1333]

The same applies no matter where you cut or drill a hole was my point. Good tape job and a quality bit, the base of the stanchions are big enough to cover tiny chips if it even happens
Just make sure you DO NOT use a pilot point bit they are too aggressive
Like Nike says "Just do it

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Awesome! Might I ask what kind of bit should I use?

[Cash1333]

The same applies no matter where you cut or drill a hole was my point. Good tape job and a quality bit, the base of the stanchions are big enough to cover tiny chips if it even happens
Just make sure you DO NOT use a pilot point bit they are too aggressive
Like Nike says "Just do it

"52859

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Awesome! Might I ask what kind of bit should I use?

[speedtactics]

I put on an APR wing. I removed a TA 2.0 wing. I was able to use on rear hole and had to drill the front most hole on both sides. The station mount covers the hole. I taped it and measured 100x then drilled. No issues. Also I did not put a dog bone under my wing. I have tracked the car many times since and not had a single issue. Now I just need Pappy to cut my hood for the ACR vents.
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[Hawk]

https://smile.amazon.com/DeWalt-DWA1184-Black-oxide-drill/dp/B07DH55YRX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VF9MOG3GCN0M&keywords=dewalt+drill+bit+set&qid=1674401752&sprefix=dewalt%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3

I have used these for a variety of different projects. Good bit for the money. When one gets dull toss it and pick up a replacement

[hydronos]

Looking to do this when I can get my hands on an acr e wing. I'll be selling my ta2.0 wing or looking to swap with an acr e wing (replica works) if anyone's interested.

[chris_lee]

Looking to do this when I can get my hands on an acr e wing. I'll be selling my ta2.0 wing or looking to swap with an acr e wing (replica works) if anyone's interested.

I’ll buy that TA wing from you if you end up taking it off.

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

https://smile.amazon.com/DeWalt-DWA1184-Black-oxide-drill/dp/B07DH55YRX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VF9MOG3GCN0M&keywords=dewalt+drill+bit+set&qid=1674401752&sprefix=dewalt%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3

I have used these for a variety of different projects. Good bit for the money. When one gets dull toss it and pick up a replacement

There are drills specifically made for drilling composites. Work much better then using 135 and 118 deg drills. Composite drills cause less damage to composite structure and clear on wet carbon, much faster drilling and you can purchase individual drills.
https://www.mcmaster.com/drills/drill-bits-for-carbon-fiber-fiberglass-and-graphite-8/

There are also "dagger drills" mfg by corehog specifically made for hand drilling composites. Little harder to find if your not in the business but worth the effort and they last forever