Another engine oil thread

[BSLSK]

I would like to get a poll of what engine oil you run in your gen 5. It's no secret that Dick Winkles and Prefix recommends 10W-40 high mileage for street driven/light duty vipers and 15W-50 for track duty/race vipers, despite Dodge's recommendation for 0W-40. So what do you run and why?

[BSLSK]

I'm still running 0W-40 factory fill because I have my warranty but it is expiring soon, so am currently considering 10W-40 high mileage per the recommendation of Dick and Prefix.

[Martin]

I'm curious about the "high mileage" oil recommendation. What does it have in it that the regular oil doesn't have?

[ViperJon]

I'm still running 0W-40 factory fill because I have my warranty but it is expiring soon, so am currently considering 10W-40 high mileage per the recommendation of Dick and Prefix.

Same here. Never varied from factory fill when still under powertrain warranty but that's ended for me now.

[BSLSK]

I'm curious about the "high mileage" oil recommendation. What does it have in it that the regular oil doesn't have?

Higher zinc for better wear and seal/gasket additives to keep them nice and soft. The latter is more important for the gen 5s that don't get driven frequently.

[Martin]

Thanks for that - I will probably give it a go. The car definitely doesn't get driven a whole lot, and while nothing has ever leaked in any of my cars, a bit of protection can't hurt as long as it doesn't hurt the oil's overall performance.

[Steve-Indy]

If you check the Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage specs, you will find that the phosphorus level is 800 ppm and the zinc is 900 ppm..like most of their other Mobil 1 oils.

The higher phosphorus and zinc levels are found in the Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula FS, the Mobil 1 15W-50, and their Mobil 1 racing oil lineup.

Mr. Winkles did tout the Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage product for its increased detergents to keep sludge under control as well as the for the preservation of seals/gaskets as noted above. His comments were in two posts that he made about a month ago on Facebook. Sadly, I could not copy/paste them...SO, I preserved his excellent post in screen shots for my own reference.

[Lawineer]

I always wondered if high mileage just meant better overall.

I figure there's a reason the engineers suggest 0-40, so I'll just use that unless I'm on track. They don't just pick viscosity out of a hat.

- - - Updated - - -


If you check the Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage specs, you will find that the phosphorus level is 800 ppm and the zinc is 900 ppm..like most of their other Mobil 1 oils.

The higher phosphorus and zinc levels are found in the Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula FS, the Mobil 1 15W-50, and their Mobil 1 racing oil lineup.

Mr. Winkles did tout the Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage product for its increased detergents to keep sludge under control as well as the for the preservation of seals/gaskets as noted above. His comments were in two posts that he made about a month ago on Facebook. Sadly, I could not copy/paste them...SO, I preserved his excellent post in screen shots for my own reference.

Does 10W-40 have more than 0W-40?

[VENOM-TA]

I always wondered if high mileage just meant better overall.

I figure there's a reason the engineers suggest 0-40, so I'll just use that unless I'm on track. They don't just pick viscosity out of a hat.

- - - Updated - - -



Does 10W-40 have more than 0W-40?
Sent message on Facebook messenger

[Steve-Indy]

From Mobil:

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-high-mileage-10w-40

[SA Heat]

Just curious, how many of y'all are running 15w-50 exclusively on the street? Are you using it to help subdue the valve train noise?

[Steve M]

Mr. Winkles did tout the Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage product for its increased detergents to keep sludge under control as well as the for the preservation of seals/gaskets as noted above. His comments were in two posts that he made about a month ago on Facebook. Sadly, I could not copy/paste them...SO, I preserved his excellent post in screen shots for my own reference.

If you send me the screen caps, I can host them and post them here for those of us that don't have Facebook accounts.


Just curious, how many of y'all are running 15w-50 exclusively on the street? Are you using it to help subdue the valve train noise?

I can't say exclusively since my car spends at least some time at the drag strip, but I've been running it for the past 2 years, and most of my mileage just so happens to be on the street.

I didn't buy it to subdue valve train noise though...I've never really thought mine was excessive. I kinda got used to valve train noise with my old LS-1.

[Steve-Indy]

Excellent, Steve...Thank you !!

Sent a couple of ways...I hope this works as it allows folks to see exactly what Dick posted !!

UPDATE: I also sent the Mobil 1 spreadsheet on their oils.

[Steve M]

https://i.ibb.co/9TbdWC5/Winkles-Motor-Oil-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/PGfyhKY/Winkles-Motor-Oil-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9tS4CcQ/Winkles-Motor-Oil-3.jpg

[Steve-Indy]

That is perfect, Steve. Thanks from all of us !!

[Steve M]

Transcribed from the screen caps above in case the links are broken or the image hosting site goes away:

From Dick Winkles:

Ok, here’s my “opinion” based on my 22+ years of engine testing and development with Chrysler and the Viper V-10. I’m no chemical PhD but I was fortunate enough to work with several through the years who were with Chrysler, ExxonMobil, Shell and Lubrizol. At Chrysler we tested quite a variety of oils from different suppliers over the years running just basic performance tests and various wear and durability test. This subject could easily take up an entire chapter in the History Book of Viper (if any such thing were to actually exist!) so I’ll cut to the chase and tell you what I run in my own Viper and why. Remember, my opinion based on my experiences over the years of engine testing and development. First a few general comments/observations.

1) Stick with the major manufacturers/suppliers. I know company XYZ claims their oil makes gobs more power and reduces friction and wear better than anything else ever. Show me the data – and I’m not talking about a few runs comparing oils on a chassis Dyno! You simply cannot find real results running on a Superflow or Dynojet. You must test in a precisely controlled and very repeatable environment – like the $1M test cells the major manufacturers have, a big investment for “boutique” oil producers.

Sorry, apparently ran out of space after I had finished my speech!

So, to be brief, when we changed to the Pennzoil (which is made by Shell) from Mobil 1 it was a purchasing directive, not from engineering. We were part of DaimlerChrysler at that time and there were financial and political reasons for the switch. In addition, we could claim a fuel economy improvement with the new 0W-40 oil. We had our marching orders so we tested the new 0W-40 and compared the results to the 5W-40 we had been using and found negligible improvement in output, a very slight improvement in fuel consumption and increased wear on pistons, rings, cylinder bores and bearing surfaces. The Shell team was great to work with and some changes to the oils formulation and additive package were made based on our tests. However, the 0W-40 never provided as good of wear protection as the higher viscosity base oil blends be it Mobil 1 or Shell. Our testing was generally done in Warner conditions due to the nature of the car – who drives a Viper at -10F or even 30F for that matter and that’s probably where the zero based oils would shine. Vipers also tend to sit for extended periods more than “normal” everyday cars.

Therefore, I usually recommend the Mobil 1 “High Mileage” oils since their additive package includes higher amount of detergent to keep sludging under control and added seal conditioners to help prevent leaks due to dried out or shrunken seals and gaskets. The higher base weight of 10 will shear down less over time and provide a higher film strength and oil pressure. I really like the 10W-40 H.M. oil for those reasons. If you are a racer, the Mobil 1 15W-50 or the Pennzoil 5W-60 race oils are my picks. I think Shell also has a High Mileage product as well that I’m sure would also be an excellent choice.

[Steve M]

https://i.ibb.co/7vr2Lhq/Mobil-1-Spec-Sheet-1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/swcHDZt/Mobil-1-Spec-Sheet-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/k95qjZ4/Mobil-1-Spec-Sheet-3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/wJHP73H/Mobil-1-Spec-Sheet-4.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/xFBzP6f/Mobil-1-Spec-Sheet-5.jpg

[Steve M]

That is perfect, Steve. Thanks from all of us !!

You're welcome...thanks for sending. Relaying the information is the least I can do.

[Hawk]

I run the 15/50 for track use as it was recommended to me by Dick Winkles, it makes sense to run a thicker oil because it is being run hard at a high temperature

[BSLSK]

Pretty sure I'm switching to 10W-40 high mileage on the next oil change.

[99RT10]

Where is Tom the Oil&Fuel guy when you need him.

[ViperJon]

Pretty sure I'm switching to 10W-40 high mileage on the next oil change.

That makes two of us. Nobody knows more than Dick Winkles on this subject. I'm sold.

[commandomatt]

What about Gen 3&4 ? Any reason not to do the high mileage oil in those as well ?

[ViperNC]

15W50 because.... you know.... 9.0L. Strongly recommended by Prefix who built the engine so I trust them. Run this street and track with no issues.

[ViperJon]

So are we saying that a 'High Mileage" blend of Mobil 10w-40 is the way to go now? Or just 10W-40 Mobil in general.

[BSLSK]

So are we saying that a 'High Mileage" blend of Mobil 10w-40 is the way to go now? Or just 10W-40 Mobil in general.

According to Mr. Winkles and Prefix, the way to go for street/light duty is the high mileage blend, especially on cars that sit for some periods of time.

[phantomapollyon]

I've been running 15w-50, ~90% street use in the south, since I got that recommendation from Prefix. (specifically using AMSOIL's 15w-50 Dominator since I'm familiar, trust it, and always get the preferred customer discount) Not that I would have expected anything different but other than a slight, yet calculable, decrease in fuel economy I don't notice any downside.

[PkB2014]

5w50 for all year weather. Being in the south could go 15w50 all year no problem, but I wouldn't got 15w50 up north. Of course most folks up north just but their car in storage for winter so then it's fine.

[nwa_viper]

Mobil One 15W-50 - Summer
Mobil One 10W-40 HM - Winter

[VENOM-TA]

Mobil One 15W-50 - Summer
Mobil One 10W-40 HM - Winter

Lol, that’s exactly what I’ve been doing..
I’ve had 2 Blackstone oil analysis done and comes out with flying colors..

[Pappy]

Just watched a GM video on breaking in the new LT6 in the Z06 Corvette. In the video they stated that they had developed a new oil for this 8600 RPM motor, called Dexos "R", 5W50. They stated the "R" was for racing and that it had been developed in cooperation with Exxon-Mobil. I don't personally know anything about the oil yet, but I thought that was worth doing some research.

[Voice of Reason]

15w50 for 23k miles since day 1. Originally I did it for track use but the past 5 years have been almost all street driving. My engine is noticeably more quiet than my ‘13 where I ran the factory 0w40. I’ve also never thrown a cam code so I don’t believe that bs about how oil thickness is critical for our variable cam to operate properly.

[quickster2]

15w50 for 23k miles since day 1. Originally I did it for track use but the past 5 years have been almost all street driving. My engine is noticeably more quiet than my ‘13 where I ran the factory 0w40. I’ve also never thrown a cam code so I don’t believe that bs about how oil thickness is critical for our variable cam to operate properly.

Actually the 15W50 "mitigated" some issues with new motors and the variable cam. I remember at NVE 2 the recommendation for some to switch to this. For the newer folks just remember to warm up your engine sufficiently prior to getting on it with the higher vis oils. Common sense for any engine really.

[VENOM-TA]

Actually the 15W50 "mitigated" some issues with new motors and the variable cam. I remember at NVE 2 the recommendation for some to switch to this. For the newer folks just remember to warm up your engine sufficiently prior to getting on it with the higher vis oils. Common sense for any engine really.
Yep… I have 15W-50 and start my car, gently pull it out of the garage and wait till 120-140 degrees before driving away..

[phantomapollyon]

Yep… I have 15W-50 and start my car, gently pull it out of the garage and wait till 120-140 degrees before driving away..

I'm glad I'm not the only person. :cool: It kind of kills me every time I see random people get in their cars, start them, and then go slam the throttle in the first 5-10 seconds of the engine running.

[Steve-Indy]

As I have said many times before, one critical point one must learn as a pilot (when it's your own ass and not merely your Asp at stake)...never go to takeoff power until one has an adequate oil temp. Cheat on this enough times and the penalty will be severe.

[nwa_viper]

Just got a Blackstone report back on my 15W-50 use.

52760

[ViperJon]

Glad I'm out of the power train warranty now...I literally would dump oil with less than 200 miles on it to adhere to the ludicrous 6 month warranty specs.

[phantomapollyon]

Glad I'm out of the power train warranty now...I literally would dump oil with less than 200 miles on it to adhere to the ludicrous 6 month warranty specs.

Setting aside obvious abuse scenarios, how would anyone ever prove that you did/didn't do it at a certain date/time interval if you were changing it yourself? Don't get me wrong, I've certainly run into situations where I've been asked that question for various vehicles over the years by dealers, but it never really went any further than the question. If someone produced product receipts they could just be for anything or even fake for all they would know. Once upon a time I had a totally stock WRX that spun bearing while under warranty, and they did ask to see oil/filter receipts. I did have the receipts and changed my oil obsessively so I did show them...but how would they have any idea what it was for or how I used them once I bought them. I just don't know that there's any time-reasonable way for an OEM to actually know or do anything with the information.

[ViperJon]

Because you don't want to give them the slightest window crack to possibly deny you warranty coverage, especially on a motor this expensive. They are looking to do exactly that.

[hydronos]

So what oil should I use for a street driven vehicle in socal - 15w50 or 10w40?

[Steve-Indy]

Casual observation:

Mobil 1's 15W-50 has a long and proven history in Vipers...both street and track driven.

Mobil 1's 10W-40 High Mileage formulation is a much more recent suggestion with a considerably more narrow history of real world utilization to date.

Note: both of these oils have been recommended by a high (highest !!) level authority. Make your choice with your own utilization and service schedule in mind.

[Lawineer]

Yeah, allowing oil to warm up is a big deal, ESPECIALLY for thicker oil.

Look at the difference between 0*C (32F) and 20*C (68F). While waiting till it gets much warmer like some mentioned above is certainly "best practice," the you can see it's really the first few degrees. About 100 degrees (40C) is plenty. For most of us, that's not much. Not many Viper miles come with the air temp below 60 to begin with. On top of that, most are in a garage that is at least 60 when they are fired up. By the time you put on you seat belt, put your phone away, back up, and go a few feet, it's probably pretty close. Just let it idle for 30 seconds and take it super duper easy for the first 1/2 mile and you're probably well into "very safe" operating temp.

I worry about it much more for my daily. It gets driven when it's below freezing (and it has turbos). It's not a big deal leaving my house as its in an attached garage, but my office parking garage isn't enclosed. Worse, it's open and 3 stories high.

It would be interesting to see the difference in wear between letting it warm up and just driving very very gently until it's warmed up. Idling for +5 min to warm up when it's only a 10 min drive home means an extra 50% run time (wear time). Wouldn't surprise me if I just better off babying it given how close I live to work.

[VENOM-TA]

I’ve ran both, but have since decided on the 15W-50 full time.. I have a routine either way, start car, gently back out of garage and then let warm up to 140* before I drive off. It’s a weekend car so I’m in no hurry..
and like said before, both of those oils have recommended by Mr. Winkles..

[Mikey]

Mobil 1 0w-40

[VENOM-TA]

Mobil 1 0w-40
Please tell me that’s not what you’re running in that new heads/cam build!!

[AAA96]

Slightly off topic but how long can engine oil last before going bad in the engine?

[Steve-Indy]

Penzoil says 4 year SHELF life for their gas-to-liquid full synthetic...while Mobil 1 has stated 5 year shelf life for their synthetic oils.

I suspect useful life in engine will depend on mileage, type of driving, and environment...Best determined by sequential oil analysis. Blackstone is a good place to do this.

For what it's worth (maybe not much), I had the opportunity to test oil from a friend's Gen II...at a time when the Mobil 1's 10W-30 had been in the car for 4 years and 800 miles. It tested very close to a virgin oil sample of the same oil...
.. including the Total Base Number.

Why push your luck ??

[AAA96]

Well, July will be 2 years on this oil. I have maybe 450 miles on the oil. Between the road being torn up for new water/sewage lines and new bridges in my area, so I can barely even drive anymore.

[Steve-Indy]

I bet all is well. I would just do a very gentle warmup.

[srtoad4]

Amsoil 10w-40 for my 1000whp Gen5

[finalleaf]

can dodge deny warranty claims if you use outside of their 0w40?

[Cantdrivestick]

They will do everything possible to deny a claim. If under warranty I would stick to whatever the dealer calls for, put the liability on them.

[ViperGeorge]

I believe that the manufacturer recommends oils that meet or exceed their specifications. These specs are, if I remember correctly, three digit codes that you can find in the owners manual. Oil bottles have lists of all the codes that they satisfy. If Dodge says you must use oils that meet XYZ and ABC specs I think you should be ok if your oil meets those specs. Oils will typically meet many more specs than what a particular manufacturer specifies. As to weight, I'm not sure how it is reflected, if it is, in the specs.

[Siciliano15]

Amsoil 10w-40 for my 1000whp Gen5

until I saw your post I was gonna say dam am i the only one using Amsoil? lol. I use the 0w40 signature series in mine. seems like in testing it exceeds mobil 1 and other oils like redline and royal purple but not sure what everyone else thinks or why more people dont use it. maybe the price?

[phantomapollyon]

until I saw your post I was gonna say dam am i the only one using Amsoil? lol. I use the 0w40 signature series in mine. seems like in testing it exceeds mobil 1 and other oils like redline and royal purple but not sure what everyone else thinks or why more people dont use it. maybe the price?

Another one here. (Amsoil's dominator 15w50)

[Aevus]

Amsoil here too (on the Break-in oil at the moment..)

probably 0w40 signature next... and then switched to 10W40 Z-ROD from june to september then back to 0w40 sig

[ViperGeorge]

Here is a message from Dick Winkles. I had told him I was using Diesel spec oil which he said I should not use. I was using it based on a recommendation on the forums. In any event, he also comments on the "boutique" oils like Amsoil.

"Why are you running a diesel spec oil? The additive package for diesel oil is very different than that of oils designed for gasoline engines. The diesel oils are usually very high detergent as well and this could lead to foaming issues at higher speeds as in a racing environment. I strongly recommend a brand name quality oil of higher viscosity (for racing) such as 10W-60 Pennsoil Racing oil, Mobil 1 15W-50, Or Valvoline VR1 20W-50 race oil. I do not like the “boutique” oils such as Amsoil, Royal Purple etc. and I would stay away from them regardless of the incredible claims they make."

[Aevus]

it's very difficult for us, mere mortals, to know for sure which oil is the best... for our climate, engine and use.

for that question I'll trust 100% my engine builder

[phantomapollyon]

Here is a message from Dick Winkles. I had told him I was using Diesel spec oil which he said I should not use. I was using it based on a recommendation on the forums. In any event, he also comments on the "boutique" oils like Amsoil.

"Why are you running a diesel spec oil? The additive package for diesel oil is very different than that of oils designed for gasoline engines. The diesel oils are usually very high detergent as well and this could lead to foaming issues at higher speeds as in a racing environment. I strongly recommend a brand name quality oil of higher viscosity (for racing) such as 10W-60 Pennsoil Racing oil, Mobil 1 15W-50, Or Valvoline VR1 20W-50 race oil. I do not like the “boutique” oils such as Amsoil, Royal Purple etc. and I would stay away from them regardless of the incredible claims they make."

Just my two cents....

While I totally respect the experience he brings to the table, I've ultimately ended up using Amsoil's products in basically every engine I've had over the last 15 years and have never had a single oil-quality/integrity related concern from any of the engines. For me this includes street cars, race cars, and everything in between. I've also had numerous Blackstone tests on nearly every engine with great results, and teardowns showing no oil-integrity related concern when those have happened for various reasons. I also can't help but mention that Amsoil has been around since I believe the mid-ish 70's, and if it isn't a "brand name oil" by now then I'm a little confused on what it would take to earn that title other than being a massive and old company. (it's certainly not a fly-by-night company that just popped up in the past few years or anything)

All of that said, I ultimately think people should simply use whatever quality/brand they're comfortable with as it's not likely to make a huge difference if you're comparing the very top synthetic products, and changing oil early and often...which let's face it, I'm sure is the case for nearly all Vipers. I can't really comment on the diesel specific oil aspect for racing as I have no direct experience. I can also validate that Mobil 1 and Valvoline make some great products because I've used and tested them on occasion as well just to compare things. If I was not using Amsoil for my Viper, I would definitely be using Mobil's 15w50. For what it's worth, I also completely acknowledge that there are also some legitimate criticisms on the pricing aspect, but as I've always gotten Amsoil at dealer pricing through a long time acquaintance that I've traded work with over the years, that really isn't a major factor for me.

[ViperSRT]

Always interesting to see how the oil threads develop. There is never an easy, nor definitive answer. The reality is no engine manufacturer, engine builder or anyone else can definitively define what will work in a given application without lots and lots of testing, assessment and measurement. Under a wide variety of test conditions. Something way beyond the scope of most companies, builders, etc. Even then, it is doubtful any will actually test to determine the minimum lubricant requirements after finding a lubricant that satisfies all testing. There just isn’t a financial benefit in doing so.

In much the same way engine component design is evolutionary. Building upon previous successes for the most part. Only when the extensive testing performed by OEMs demonstrates a shortcoming do the engineers for components, calibrations and lubricants get down to business to find the most appropriate resolution. In those situations those involved get to understand the specific limitations. My understanding is when Team Viper was “encouraged” to utilize a new lubricant supplier (because business with the prior supplier was not possible due to a business relationship that soured following the Chrysler bankruptcy) and encouraged by engineering management to utilize a lower viscosity lubricant to comply with corporate-wide objectives for fuel consumption reduction, shortcomings were identified and resolved. Given that I trust in the experience and recommendations, even though I am not fully knowledgeable of the specifics. I base that trust on my own experiences on other engine and transmission applications I was associated with over my 35 year career with Chrysler.

As for the comment about boutique oil suppliers I can add my $0.02. Generally the term is used for those producers who buy another major brands product, and modifies it, often without clear documentation for what it contains. My experience is that Amsoil meets that definition. For synthetic motor oil they purchase base stock from Mobil and add their proprietary additive package. They then publish technical information that doesn’t comply with the normal standards such as SAE, API or ACEA. As such OEMs would need to conduct an extensive test program to verify their lubricants acceptability. An endeavor no OEM would be willing to conduct. Thus to an OEM engineer those producers are on the outside, without the potential of a recommendation. It doesn’t mean they are bad or wouldn’t work. It means they have too many unknowns to be recommended.

[Siciliano15]

Amsoil here too (on the Break-in oil at the moment..)

probably 0w40 signature next... and then switched to 10W40 Z-ROD from june to september then back to 0w40 sig

nice yea ive been using the stuff over 10 years always been great.

[Siciliano15]

Just my two cents....

While I totally respect the experience he brings to the table, I've ultimately ended up using Amsoil's products in basically every engine I've had over the last 15 years and have never had a single oil-quality/integrity related concern from any of the engines. For me this includes street cars, race cars, and everything in between. I've also had numerous Blackstone tests on nearly every engine with great results, and teardowns showing no oil-integrity related concern when those have happened for various reasons. I also can't help but mention that Amsoil has been around since I believe the mid-ish 70's, and if it isn't a "brand name oil" by now then I'm a little confused on what it would take to earn that title other than being a massive and old company. (it's certainly not a fly-by-night company that just popped up in the past few years or anything)

All of that said, I ultimately think people should simply use whatever quality/brand they're comfortable with as it's not likely to make a huge difference if you're comparing the very top synthetic products, and changing oil early and often...which let's face it, I'm sure is the case for nearly all Vipers. I can't really comment on the diesel specific oil aspect for racing as I have no direct experience. I can also validate that Mobil 1 and Valvoline make some great products because I've used and tested them on occasion as well just to compare things. If I was not using Amsoil for my Viper, I would definitely be using Mobil's 15w50. For what it's worth, I also completely acknowledge that there are also some legitimate criticisms on the pricing aspect, but as I've always gotten Amsoil at dealer pricing through a long time acquaintance that I've traded work with over the years, that really isn't a major factor for me.

yea i agree i think that winkles may believe that amsoil is a botique oil but it really isnt. It was one of the first major synthetic oil companies founded by a guy Antuzio who was a veteran and scientist. He came out with Amsoil way before any of the big oil companies started offering an alternative. I cant say for sure that Amsoil is the best but I do know that on one vehicle i had, I used Mobil 1 10w30 and was burning oil at about a quart and a half every 3000 miles and when i switched to Amsoil, that went down to about a half quart

[Aevus]

Amsoil here too (on the Break-in oil at the moment..)

probably 0w40 signature next... and then switched to 10W40 Z-ROD from june to september then back to 0w40 sig


finally wasnt 10w40 we ordered but 15w50 dominator for summer time...

53027

[SA Heat]

The "this side up" info printed on the box (with the label already making it obvious which way is up) is just another awesome example of the attention to detail Amsoil exhibits for its customers.

[StrokerAce]

The "this side up" info printed on the box (with the label already making it obvious which way is up) is just another awesome example of the attention to detail Amsoil exhibits for its customers.


:smilielol:

[Aevus]

The "this side up" info printed on the box (with the label already making it obvious which way is up) is just another awesome example of the attention to detail Amsoil exhibits for its customers.

and two arrows, for double safety

[phantomapollyon]

The "this side up" info printed on the box (with the label already making it obvious which way is up) is just another awesome example of the attention to detail Amsoil exhibits for its customers.


and two arrows, for double safety

:smilielol:

[SA Heat]

and two arrows, for double safety

:D.

[ViperJon]

Is this the oil that is being recommended or does it not meet the recommended specs? Hard to follow sometimes with things like 'European formula" etc. Seems awfully inexpensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-High-Mileage-10W-40-5QT/dp/B07GLGY2RY?th=1

[Steve M]

Is this the oil that is being recommended or does it not meet the recommended specs? Hard to follow sometimes with things like 'European formula" etc. Seems awfully inexpensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-High-Mileage-10W-40-5QT/dp/B07GLGY2RY?th=1

Yes. It is the same stuff you can get directly from Wal-Mart, just like I do Mobil 1 15w50. It's usually $25-$30 for a 5 quart jug.

No dealer/friend-of-a-friend special discounts required, and from a reputable company that doesn't hide behind flashy marketing and overly wordy statements to obfuscate its origins.

[ForTehNguyen]

theres a $20 rebate on 10 quarts of pennzoil currently

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/pennzoil-platinum-rewards-national-promotion.html

[ViperJon]

theres a $20 rebate on 10 quarts of pennzoil currently

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/pennzoil-platinum-rewards-national-promotion.html

I've always used Pennzoil when I was still under power train warranty but that shipped sailed. It's three times the price.
Mobil One for me now.

[ForTehNguyen]

another deal then combine with the rebate https://slickdeals.net/f/16496194-pennzoil-platinum-euro-full-synthetic-0w-40-motor-oil-5-quart-26-44-at-walmart?src=frontpage

[ViperJon]

another deal then combine with the rebate https://slickdeals.net/f/16496194-pennzoil-platinum-euro-full-synthetic-0w-40-motor-oil-5-quart-26-44-at-walmart?src=frontpage

Thats 0W-40 not 10W-40 as we have discussed changing to here. Good deal though.