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View Full Version : Removing front sway bar links on 2000 GTS



Lacewwood
11-07-2021, 11:25 AM
Does anyone have a clue on removing the original front sway bar drop links on a 2000 GTS ? Have all nuts removed, suspension is hanging freely. Cannot move sway bar up to get the link out. Used pry bar, drift punch; nothing will budge. Need expert advice. New to Viper ownership, but not new to wrenching on cars. Thanks for any helpful reply. Lacewood !!!

Steve M
11-07-2021, 01:08 PM
Not sure on the design, but there are a few different methods discussed in this thread:

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/8303-quot-Stock-Coilover-Removal-on-Gen-3-quot

Also see this post in that thread: https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/8303-quot-Stock-Coilover-Removal-on-Gen-3-quot?p=445353&viewfull=1#post445353

Fatboy 18
11-07-2021, 03:18 PM
Are you trying to remove the Drop link tapered end bolt from the aluminium lower suspension? If so, Loosen nut and unscrew so it is level with the end of the bolt, but do not fully remove it, jack up suspension using a trolley jack then place a straight bar (or a small bottle jack) vertically under the loosened nut, keeping it in place slowly lower suspension again using the jack, it should pop out. Do not hit aluminium control arms with any kind of hammer!

So in effect, you are pushing on the Sway bar link and dropping the lower arm suspension.

GTS Dean
11-07-2021, 07:31 PM
It's best to get both wheels up and dangling at least 4" off the ground - more is better - then remove the wheels. Loosen the nuts on each end of the links and run them up to the ends of the threads. Use a modest sized hammer to rap crisply on the top nuts until they dislodge on both sides, then run the nuts down again finger tight. Use a drift punch on the lower studs and give them a couple of good, solid smacks until they dislodge (swing clearance can be a challenge sometimes). Once the tapered studs are free from the bar and wishbone sockets, you can remove the nuts and links. I always coat the stud tapers (not the threads) with a very thin layer of never-seize to make it a little easier the next time. Remember to torque the nuts properly on reassembly. The anti-seize will not have any bearing on nut torque.