Fluid change parts and tips Diff transmission oil brakes

[AAA96]

So it has come time to do a change of some of the fluids and while I have the car in the air I might as well change them all. I made a list below of parts I will need for each procedure. Please feel free to add anything you think I would need or any tips so I don’t F anything up. I will be using a rent by the hour garage so being prepared is the primary reason for this post. I’m sure the very moment I click post I will realize I forgot something on the list. Thanks.

Oil- 11 quarts of 0w-40, Oil filter Mopar- Mo-041

Brakes- 4 bottles DOT4 mopar fluid, turkey baster, motive pump, motive adapter, catch can with hose, brake cleaner

Diff- 3 (500mL) bottles of Mercedes A001989520310 fluid (since it apparently has an easier dispense bottle)

Transmission- 4 bottles Mopar 68218057AA, PTEF sealer, manual fluid transfer pump

[Old School]

Diff- 3 (500mL) bottles of Mercedes A001989520310 fluid (since it apparently has an easier dispense bottle)


I had not heard that before, so I looked and found that Mercedes just puts their sticker on a Castrol bottle.

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[AAA96]

Yea I guess it’s the same stuff as what mopar sells and has the additive already premixed. The top of the bottle makes it easy to deliver the fluid into the diff. Can anyone confirm this?

[Old School]

I've been using the Castrol stuff in mine (it has a Gen V diff) for 40k miles without the additive. No problems.

[AAA96]

I've been using the Castrol stuff in mine (it has a Gen V diff) for 40k miles without the additive. No problems.

You’re sure it doesn’t have the additive premixed? From what I’ve read it makes loud sounds and possibly leads to front wheel skipping when turning the wheels.

[Old School]

You’re sure it doesn’t have the additive premixed? From what I’ve read it makes loud sounds and possibly leads to front wheel skipping when turning the wheels.

I should have been more clear, I should have said "without having to add the additive". It has the limited slip additive already mixed in.

[AAA96]

I should have been more clear, I should have said "without having to add the additive". It has the limited slip additive already mixed in.

Gotcha! So it’s exactly the picture you posted but without the Mercedes sticker.

[ViperJon]

Make a video of the fluid(s) changes for us shade tree mechanics. I know it's not rocket science but would like to see a play by play. :)

[AAA96]

Make a video of the fluid(s) changes for us shade tree mechanics. I know it's not rocket science but would like to see a play by play. :)

Funny you say that. I actually was thinking about doing videos last night while trying to sleep. Maybe I’ll drag my friend who can be a camera man with me to video me unbolting a few bolts and making a mess everywhere haha.

[Old School]

Gotcha! So it’s exactly the picture you posted but without the Mercedes sticker.

Yes

[Exhlr8n]

You'll need something like this hand pump to transfer fluid into tranny and diff. Wont be filling directly from the bottle opening.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W54150-Marine-Lower/dp/B00J4YL1RE/ref=asc_df_B00J4YL1RE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312064691975&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1077969777003067795&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031807&hvtargid=pla-450107450123&psc=1

[AAA96]

You'll need something like this hand pump to transfer fluid into tranny and diff. Wont be filling directly from the bottle opening.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W54150-Marine-Lower/dp/B00J4YL1RE/ref=asc_df_B00J4YL1RE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312064691975&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1077969777003067795&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031807&hvtargid=pla-450107450123&psc=1


Thanks, I had one of these laying around from a previous purchase.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W1156

[Old School]

And use the left drain plug for a more complete draining.

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/24769-Draining-Differential?highlight=casting

[AAA96]

Possible or impossible to bleed brake system without taking wheels off or lifting the car?

[Steve M]

Take the wheels off...you might be able to reach the outer bleed screws, but you'll have a hard time reaching the inner bleed screws through the wheel.

[usmcfieldmp]

Possible or impossible to bleed brake system without taking wheels off or lifting the car?

I've done it without taking the wheels off on a friend's 2016 Camaro SS, but that was only because the wheel lug key "disappeared".

So while not impossible, it is not something I'd ever do again unless I absolutely had to - which was the case then. He was driving cross-country for a Navy deployment in the height of COVID restrictions and his fluid was giving him problems (because it was still the OE stuff). It came out pitch black.

[AAA96]

So I just got done with the brake fluid change. Took me one hour to do including cleanup and shower. I DID NOT take the wheels off and it was cake. RR, LR, RF, LF and outside then inside. I was able to connect the discharge hose and get to the bleeders fairly easily from the outside of the wheel for the outside valves. The inside rear valves I jacked the side of the car up and went from the inside. The front inside valves I just reached around the tire with the hood open obviously. Not sure if it was supposed to be this easy or if I messed something up haha. I took it for a test drive and seems fine, clutch and brakes work.

[chris_lee]

Couple of quick tips that might save you a trip to the store. Speaking from experience lol.

Differential: The differential top fill plug is a 3/8 hex socket. You will want to remove both rear diff drains plugs “base models without the cooler” due to the taps being different depths. Or just remove the one with the shortest tap “see photo” to get the full drain. The stock MOPAR fluid is what I would recommend on the Rear diff. Part number 68197927AA and it already has the limited slip additive. The label even says it’s designed specifically for the SRT vipers. I tried Royal Purple with the limited slip additive already in it and noticed a high pitch whine on decel. Others have used Royal Purple with no issues but that was my experience. I immediately drained it and replaced with the Mopar fluid, and it was silent. I was able to fill the rear diff just using a 3” plastic tube extension attached to the tip of the container nozzle.

Transmission: You will also want to get a 1.5” 3/8 drive extension for the transmission drain plug. When you go to put that one back on your socket wrench may push up on this other bolt making it hard to feel how much torque you are putting on that drain plug. Any longer that 1.5” and you are hitting the frame on the other size.

Don’t over torque the drain plugs. Clean up the factory thread sealant from the plugs. Use Permatex high temp thread sealant on all the plugs. Torque for the transmission plugs is only 25lbs and 20lbs for the rear Diff. Keep in mind that lubricated plugs with a torque wrench may go way past that before clicking. Using a standard size socket wrench with your hand closer to the socket should give you plenty of torque for those plugs.

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[Bootstrap]

Great thread - I cannot find anywhere the size of the bottle Part number 68197927AA, looking for how many I would need to do a diff oil change.

[Hawk]

I like the Mobil 1 for the rear axle(It has the friction modifier in it) , it takes 1.5 quarts. It is slightly easier if you pull off the rear passenger side wheel to pass the bottle into the axle filling hole area

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[chris_lee]

Great thread - I cannot find anywhere the size of the bottle Part number 68197927AA, looking for how many I would need to do a diff oil change.

Standard 32oz, so you need 2 49085

[chris_lee]

I also like that it mentions being specially formulated for our cars. 49086

[Bootstrap]

Awesome - many thanks!

[GTS Dean]

If you need more than 2 bottles of brake fluid to completely flush the system, you are doing things very, very wrong.

[Meteoro]

what you guys are using for steering fluid??

[Lawineer]

Take the wheels off...you might be able to reach the outer bleed screws, but you'll have a hard time reaching the inner bleed screws through the wheel.

I just did mine. If you bleed the outside, there is very very very little dirty fluid left on the inside. With that said, I'd take the wheels off and do both with SRF once and be done with it.

[Lawineer]

If you need more than 2 bottles of brake fluid to completely flush the system, you are doing things very, very wrong.

I just did my entire system with 1 liter of SRF and it was JUST right. If you're being generous with the flush, I could see it being 3 bottles of RBF, or something like 2.2 bottles.

I have no idea why people use RBF instead of Motul though. As I said in the previous post, just do SRF once and be done with it for a season unless you're tracking all the time and running slicks. When I went frequently (on R-compound street tires in my c7) I didn't even bleed the brake fluid. Once every 6 months to a year I flushed it. And I ran tracks that were hell on brakes.

[Lawineer]

While we’re on the topic of brakes, Geeze- is it just me or is it TIGHT with new pads? I had to tap them out with a flathead and a hammer.

Also, I assume no one runs the shims in the rear on track pads right?

[darbgnik]

I just did my entire system with 1 liter of SRF and it was JUST right. If you're being generous with the flush, I could see it being 3 bottles of RBF, or something like 2.2 bottles.

I have no idea why people use RBF instead of Motul though. As I said in the previous post, just do SRF once and be done with it for a season unless you're tracking all the time and running slicks. When I went frequently (on R-compound street tires in my c7) I didn't even bleed the brake fluid. Once every 6 months to a year I flushed it. And I ran tracks that were hell on brakes.

What he said. Ive done it a few times, and always have a tiny amount left from a 1 liter bottle of Castrol SRF.

I also like the fact that when I run SRF, I ignore the brake fluid for the whole track season.