CCB brakes

[Arizona Vipers]

Ok, so I know a few guys on here have converted to steel brakes for cost savings. That's honestly badass, they are true Viper track warriors that should be honored for busting their asses out there on the track versus all the modern, DCT, Turbo, endless technology beasts that just keep evolving every year and getting faster and faster on the track. Anyway, for me, a 70 lb, (17.5 lb per corner) loss of unsprung mass is priceless on the road course, I've stuck with the carbons. I JUST had to finally replace my front rotors. After 6 years of hard track use, it cost me $4400. Thanks to JonB PartsRack for finding these as they are on national backorder right now.
Minimum recommended weight of the rotors before replacement are 13.13 lbs and mine were 13.2 lbs. I could have gone another year maybe, but at my Super Lap Battle event at Cota, that track is so hard on brakes that my inside passenger pad wore down to the metal and grooved the inside of the rotor bad... The new ones out of the box weighed 13.7 lbs.

[CarbonDan]

This is truly the engima of a century - I will never understand how you've managed to squeeze so much life out of your CCB rotors, particularly at the pace you run! Most CCB rotors turn into cheese graters in no time flat, eating up pads within 2-4 days of use.
I put my pristine CCB rotors on a nice cozy heated rack in my garage and popped on a set of Girodiscs w/ ST43, can't say I've been disappointed with the results. For a car like yours, with so much attention to weight loss, I think $4400 every 6 years isn't half a bad price to pay!
What weight are you down to now anyways?
Any recent onboard vids?
By the way, what tires are you running and how many DE heat cycles do you get out of them? I know you've tried lots of rubber over the years.

[Arizona Vipers]

This is truly the engima of a century - I will never understand how you've managed to squeeze so much life out of your CCB rotors, particularly at the pace you run! Most CCB rotors turn into cheese graters in no time flat, eating up pads within 2-4 days of use.
I put my pristine CCB rotors on a nice cozy heated rack in my garage and popped on a set of Girodiscs w/ ST43, can't say I've been disappointed with the results. For a car like yours, with so much attention to weight loss, I think $4400 every 6 years isn't half a bad price to pay!
What weight are you down to now anyways?
Any recent onboard vids?
By the way, what tires are you running and how many DE heat cycles do you get out of them? I know you've tried lots of rubber over the years.

Do we know anyone else that has had to replace the carbon rotors yet? I'm at 2940 now, will be about 2880 soon, gonna get rid of the dash and factory wiring! I'm running the Yokohama slicks as required by Global Time Attack, but I really like them. They are fast and seem to hold onto lap times for 4-5+ sessions.

[Lawineer]

How many hours do you think you had on the rotors?

[Racingswh]

Ok, so I know a few guys on here have converted to steel brakes for cost savings. That's honestly badass, they are true Viper track warriors that should be honored for busting their asses out there on the track versus all the modern, DCT, Turbo, endless technology beasts that just keep evolving every year and getting faster and faster on the track. Anyway, for me, a 70 lb, (17.5 lb per corner) loss of unsprung mass is priceless on the road course, I've stuck with the carbons. I JUST had to finally replace my front rotors. After 6 years of hard track use, it cost me $4400. Thanks to JonB PartsRack for finding these as they are on national backorder right now.
Minimum recommended weight of the rotors before replacement are 13.13 lbs and min were 13.2 lbs. I could have gone another year maybe, but at my Super Lap Battle event at Cota, that track is so hard on brakes that my inside passenger pad wore down to the metal and grooved the inside of the rotor bad... The new ones out of the box weighted 13.7 lbs.

Do you happen to know the minimum weight for the rears as well?

[Arizona Vipers]

No. The specs are printed on the rotor, but I didn't check my rears as they look new.

[Racingswh]

No. The specs are printed on the rotor, but I didn't check my rears as they look new.

You have installed in me great hope and thank you. ;)

I have never weighed mine.

Best place for best prices on pads?

[Arizona Vipers]

You have installed in me great hope and thank you. ;)

I have never weighed mine.

Best place for best prices on pads?


You took yours off pretty quick didn't you? You're putting them back on to sell the car obviously? I just bought a few sets of Pads from JonB!

[Racingswh]

You took yours off pretty quick didn't you? You're putting them back on to sell the car obviously? I just bought a few sets of Pads from JonB!

I did. Exactly. I will reach out to Jon for the pads.

Putting the car back to 100% stock. Helps that it has been meticulously maintained and cared for. Not much to do other than the graphics. I am weighing the rotors this week.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

I have sold fewer that 5 sets of OE CCB G5 rotors.

Owners who "KEEP THEIR CB DRILLED HOLES METICULOUSLY CLEAN" will be rewarded with longer CCB rotor life. FACT.
But when price-panic hits, I have converted more than 20 owners to Steel. Was sure to OFFER that option to AZ as well: 4 rotors and pads $1000 below his discount price for TWO front CCB !! But He stayed true / faithful to OE.

Thanks For the biz.....

[Arizona Vipers]

I have sold fewer that 5 sets of OE CCB G5 rotors.

Owners who "KEEP THEIR CB DRILLED HOLES METICULOUSLY CLEAN" will be rewarded with longer CCB rotor life. FACT.


Yeah, Tom O'Dell told me this was important. When I was just at COTA, I started with clean holes, I ended up only doing about 22 laps there and my rotors were SOLID. I mean SOLID like if you asked someone if my rotors were solid or dilled they'd say drilled. LOL.. You couldn't even see a faint hint of one hole. Hitting 173 on back straight and 160's on the front. For the record I don't even run the brake coolers to save weight and they didn't fade whatsoever. And this is with my inside passenger side pad worn to bare metal and the rotor scored. These brakes are mind-blowing.

[Fastbusy]

Do we know anyone else that has had to replace the carbon rotors yet? I'm at 2940 now, will be about 2880 soon, gonna get rid of the dash and factory wiring! I'm running the Yokohama slicks as required by Global Time Attack, but I really like them. They are fast and seem to hold onto lap times for 4-5+ sessions.

I replaced front CCB rotors after 22 track days, ~990 laps, ~2500 miles on track, ~25-28 hours of lapping. 6399 total miles on odometer, so remaining mileage was either break-in or driving to events. Car is stock weight. The issue I ran into was rotor was eating front pads. I was not attentive to keeping holes cleaned which I plan to do on the new set of CCBs.

[Racingswh]

I remember my first event. Front pads gone by Saturday afternoon. Rears pads gone by Sunday afternoon. $1500 per 3 day weekend for pads. Made no sense to me just doing it for fun at some casual HPDE events. I am extremely curious what the rotors weigh now. I will be stunned if they are above minimum weight. Car had less than 2500 miles when they came off.

Nannies off BTW.

[sharmut]

I would love to switch back to the CCMs, do you guys clean the holes in between sessions or can it be done after each track event?

[Arizona Vipers]

I replaced front CCB rotors after 22 track days, ~990 laps, ~2500 miles on track, ~25-28 hours of lapping. 6399 total miles on odometer, so remaining mileage was either break-in or driving to events. Car is stock weight. The issue I ran into was rotor was eating front pads. I was not attentive to keeping holes cleaned which I plan to do on the new set of CCBs.

Great post! Probably the most important post on ACR CCB's of all time!

[Arizona Vipers]

I would love to switch back to the CCMs, do you guys clean the holes in between sessions or can it be done after each track event?

It's very time consuming, there's at least 100 holes per rotor, maybe a lot more. I rarely do mine, but will start doing them more often with my new set of rotors.

[02192viper]

Regarding cleaning the holes in the CCM, is there a proper way and a wrong way? I used a small brush and air compressor. Seemed to be ok until the brush got stuck in a couple holes.

[sharmut]

Regarding cleaning the holes in the CCM, is there a proper way and a wrong way? I used a small brush and air compressor. Seemed to be ok until the brush got stuck in a couple holes.

I suspect it can't be done with a brush. My guess, the material is slightly fuzzed into the holes, requiring the use of something to poke the holes.

[TrackAire]

Is the material from the rotors dangerous to breathe in? Maybe a quality respirator should be used when reaming your holes just to be on the safe side.

[Arizona Vipers]

Regarding cleaning the holes in the CCM, is there a proper way and a wrong way? I used a small brush and air compressor. Seemed to be ok until the brush got stuck in a couple holes.

Use a wooden dowel rod

[SRT_BluByU]

does water work to clean them out or is in packed in hard?

[RT SERPENT]

Here's what I use to clean the holes in the CCB's. I do it after each track day or two. These work great!
Soft mascara brushes that my wife picked up. (About $5 loonies for a pack of 30!) I usually have the vacuum hose right nearby and it just picks up the dust. Simple. Easy.
47365

[RT SERPENT]

does water work to clean them out or is in packed in hard?


I found that water didn't seem to do much, so I went with the brushes posted above.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Bamboo Shish-Ka-Bob Skewers work fine.....

120 Holes per rotor

Re: Those mascara brushes:

You could use colored mascara before the car shows! Just imagine the looks you'ld get with color-matching accented rotor holes!!

[RT SERPENT]

Bamboo Shish-Ka-Bob Skewers work fine.....

120 Holes per rotor

Re: Those mascara brushes:

You could use colored mascara before the car shows! Just imagine the looks you'ld get with color-matching accented rotor holes!!

:lol2::smilielol::smilielol:

I've got the new set of pads that you shipped me for when I need 'em. At this point though I'm still doing good on the current set.

[Arizona Vipers]

My rears are still .4 lbs over minimum. What's crazy is they only went down .1 lbs over all these years. So technically should last me 20 more years. LOL.
I run with stability control on most times too, you would think if it's kicking in a lot they would wear faster.

[TheWessss]

I recently weighed my rotors, again, after now my 3rd set of front pads. Still within spec car has 22k miles and somewhere around 25+ track days. I use an allen to clean the holes, very important, for cooling I find the angles of it make it easy to clean out and push through both sides. Then I rinse them with water. Only when they are new pads do I find the most build up in the hole after that it is rather minimal. I added the Mishimoto 3" silicone reinforced brake cooling duct hose for about $60 all for corners, what brake fade??? The TKO SS silicone coated brake lines are some of the best I've ever seen and I recently added the DSE caliper scrapers.

[Racingswh]

Minimum recommended weight of the rotors before replacement are 13.13 lbs and mine were 13.2 lbs.. Min weight marked right on my fronts is 5904 grams. When I Google that conversion it comes up as 13.016 pounds. Is it possible that different rotors had different min weights? All mine are well within spec going off what is marked right on the rotors.